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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    In your first post you mentioned that before you started messing with the speedometer, bike ran like a scalded dog. Does this mean the bike ran fine after the speedometer and guages quit working but before you started trouble shooting the problem? Have you checked all your battery and ground connections to be sure they are tight? Not just at the battery but a the solenoid, frame, etc. Checked all the multi pin connector plugs in the fairing and on the bike? Battery is confirmed good and charging system is working properly? Checked the connector at the Regulator Rectifier for melting? Bad batteries , connections, charging can cause wierd symptoms. How many miles on this bike? How long have you owned it? Any after market or accessory lighting and where how is that tied in?
  2. RSTDdog
    You have to take the metal cover off (one bolt, Chrome in Ecks picture, may also be black) to get access to the cap to remove it. The reservoir will be loose at this point so be carefull not to spill. If the reservoir is low on brake fluid chances are you need rear brake pads. On some bikes one pad tends to wear more than the other on the rear caliper. I suggest you inspect the pads, replace as necessary and flush and replace the brake fluid (should be done every two years- CLutch, front reservoir, and rear) If its any color other than clear, change it. Don't add fluid before checking pads. If you have to replace the pads, when you compress the caliper psitons to install new pads, if the reservoir is full the fluid will overflow out of the reservoir. RSTDdog
  3. RSTDdog
    Researching windshields (windscreens) ran across this thread and just couldn't let the inaccurate Goldwing FI reference go uncorrected. Not to mention poor SilverT has been waiting 3 years 4 months for info and a link to his speedohealer question ( although what do you expect when your hijacking a thread ). I missed that question being it was the last post before mine and I was overcome by the GOldwing FI reference. Just not right having threads around with unanswered questions in them...... So here you go SilverT. http://www.healtech-electronics.com/ Perhaps now this thread has closure....... RSTDdog
  4. RSTDdog

    P1030797 [800x600]

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    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  5. RSTDdog

    Tour Pack RSTD

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  6. RSTDdog

    P1030798 [800x600]

    RSTDdog posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    P1030798 [800x600]

    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  7. RSTDdog

    P1030799 [800x600]

    RSTDdog posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    P1030799 [800x600]

    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  8. RSTDdog

    P1030800 [800x600]

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    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  9. RSTDdog

    P1030796 [800x600]

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    P1030796 [800x600]

    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  10. RSTDdog

    P1030795 [800x600]

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    P1030795 [800x600]

    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  11. RSTDdog

    P1030794 [800x600]

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    P1030794 [800x600]

    From the album: Tour Pack RSTD

  12. RSTDdog
    Actually only the 1985 and 1986 GL1200LTD had fuel injection- PGM FI a version of early fuel injection found on Honda cars that had a crapload of vacuum lines associated with it. Not many of these bikes were produced, they ran great when they worked, the FI was problematic and expensive to fix when it didn't. All the 1500 Goldwings are carbureted (they only have two carbs, one for each bank). That tells you what Honda thought of their attempt to FI the GL1200. The GL1800 is the first wing with fuel injection. The Royal Stars get what they get for fuel economy mostly because its a 30 year old engine design and the bikes are heavy. Just Adding fuel injection to this engine design would improve driveability but likely wouldn't improve fuel economy much if it all. RSTDdog
  13. RSTDdog
    The website for US carburetion seems to have the most comprehensive info and one of the first links I saw on google. http://www.propane-generators.com/ Have you dealt with them before? Got any more info on the DIY conversion you did? Thanks
  14. RSTDdog
    The kits I have seen are either bi fuel ( gas Propane) or tri fuel. Don't have natural gas available here, but it seems most kits are tri fuel. There are some that are dedicated that won't let you run gasoline again. Want to convert for convenience mostly. Gasoline doesn't store well. Have to drain and dry out carb every year prepping for hurricane season. Bi Fuel would give me more options for fueling also.
  15. RSTDdog
    Considering converting my portable generator to propane. Has a Honda 13HP GX390 engine. I have googled this and found some different kits. Anyone here have any experience or input with doing this? Thanks RSTDdog
  16. RSTDdog
    Not exactly the same combo but here is my experience. I put a 18" stratoliner front wheel on my bike. Its a direct swap, no mods. The Strat wheel came with a 130 70 18 Bridgestone radial. I ran this Radial front with a michelin commander (old style) rear for 1200 miles in new hampshire on all types of roads with no issues and about another 800 here in the flat lands. When the commander wore out I wanted "matching" tires. I bought bias Avon Venoms front and rear. The Stock rear size and they make a bias venom for the front in 130 70 18. Both are reinforced tires and the 130 70 18 Avon front is only one load range below the stock tire 69H vs 71H stock and that's why I went that route. While this new combination feels good, I find the new bias front tire slightly more "twitchy" than the radial front tire I had before. I think the 130 70 18 radial has a flatter profile than the 130 70 18 bias. A radial front in the stock size like you are running may also have a flatter profile. Check to see what the load index is for that Avon Cobra. If you are not heavy or load the bike at or over the GVWR a slight change in the load index of the tire shouldn't matter for you. If you tend ride at or above the load limit, you want all the load index you canget in your tires. If you like the way it feels go with it. I dont think its a big deal myself. If they mounted a Cobra for the price of Venom you made out since I think the Cobras cost more.
  17. RSTDdog
    I get to Pensacola 2-3 times a year to see my mom, but haven't been through the Mississippi GC since the Casinos and Katrina. I'm not big on development and real nostalgic for old unadulterated coastal communities.
  18. RSTDdog
    I installed the Hagon Shock as well. My OE Yamaha shock started leaking at 22k miles. I got the uprated version with the Heavy spring. 469.00 shipped form Hagon LLC in California. Have about 500 miles and have not adjusted anything on it. Feels good one and two up. May need to tweak the dampening adjustment some, not sure. I have a Harley tour pack on my RSTD so weight wise in the rear I am similar to a Venture. The Hagon actually makes the front end feel soft to me now. Bought some sonic springs for that but haven't installed them yet. Took some pictures before install since there aren't many good shots of it that I have seen. Very well made in my opinion, rebuildable for 150 I think and two year warranty. Be nice to see how it holds up for people who ride alot. I'm only averaging around 2500 miles ayear so I likely won't break it under the warranty. RSTDdog
  19. RSTDdog
    I would say tire noise as well. What brand tires and how many miles on them? Once tires get a flat spot in the midlle they can make some noise on the transition point. Do you know if the drive hub splines and pins were cleaned and greased when the tire was installed? Attached some before/after photos of my drive pins on my 06 RSTD at 22,000. The pins go into rubber bushings in the wheel, the splines that mate to the final drive are on the other side hidden in the photos. Clean and grease everything really well and be sure the rubber bushings are seated in to the wheel. There are metal inserts in the rubber bushings that the pins slide into and used a 45 cal bore brush to clean those. Thought I took pictures of that but I didn't. There is a TSB here in the Tech section on removing and cleaning this part and checking the bushings. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog
    I grew up in Pensacola and spent some time on the Mississippi Gulf Coast back in 1988 and 1989 . Went to a Mardi Gras parade in Pass Christian in February 89. Nice Parade and community as I recall. I drove down Highway 90 along the coast many times back then, Pre-casino days. Took Hwy 90 all the way to New Orleans once.Hope you guys made it through OK. We just got some wind and rain here as Issac passed by us. Have had afternoon thunderstorms that were worse. RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    A quality plug patch from the inside is a reliable repair. Of course this requires removing the tire from the rim (and obviously the wheel from the bike). Unless you are taking the wheel off yourself, the cost effectiveness of this repair comes into question, since you are paying the labor to R and R the rear wheel, plus parts and labor to properly plug patch the tire, Rand R and rebalance, etc. In essence the difference in cost between this and replacing the tire (depending on brand) is probably $100 or so or less. This only makes sense to do on a new or nearly new tire IMO. I understand the money situation as well. Sometime you have to do what you have to do. With respect to the push in plug you have, if you need to ride the bike-Check air pressure and the condition,location of the plug every day before you ride. Be very sensitive to handling changes an indication you are loosing air.
  22. RSTDdog
    Before condeming the KN filters, check for air leaks in common areas, the little rubber boots over the ports on the intakes (where you hook up to sync carbs comes to mind). As mentioned before, are they oiled properly? a dry KN filter or one with insufficient oil will be considerably leaner. Also if it doesn't have enough oil it will pass dirt. Per your first post, Last time your carbs were balanced was a couple of years ago? what is that in miles? With new spark plugs and new air filters another carb sync is also in order. Double check that all your plug wires and boots are fully seated as well. Also check the clamps on the mufflers where they slide over the head pipe and make sure they are snug. Let us know how you make out.
  23. RSTDdog
    The weights that clip to the center lip are the OEM Yamaha weights. Tape weights are what most shops use since the OE clip weights are more money (7.60 retail, 5.30 discount each).
  24. RSTDdog
    Glad you fixed it yourself. Good deal. good thread too.I am late to the party, but for the price you were quoted , you could have picked up a small window shaker for the bedroom for $100.00 or so to get you by for the weekend till the parts store opened and still been money ahead. I have a small AC I can run with a generator in case of long term power outage from hurricanes/storms. They are handy to have around. RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    Depends how many miles it has on it. Less than 10,000 it may be worth a try. My 06 shock failed at 22k. Leaking oil, still held air. Many other shocks here reported failing in the 30-50K mark. Others failed internally - no oil leak, hold air but no longer dampen (pogo). Used is good if you get a good one.
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