CMIKE
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Everything posted by CMIKE
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I have been looking at the PCW kit already. My 2nd gen bike is not slipping YET..only 15K on it so far...but once I think it slipped on a trip to Ark in 4thr 5th gear. I wanted to make sure it didn't cause me problems off on a trip this year. PCW indicates they use the 2nd Generation Heavy Duty VMAX Clutch Spring...not sure about what friction plates they send. Have you tried this kit in a 2nd Gen? Do you get the same results as the PCW kit? I do not want any trouble 1000 miles from home...
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Oh no...you are not starting anything at all. Not really saying it is unsafe to lower the front or raise the rear...just do it with moderation. the RSV 2nd gen... naturally sits high in the front. Folks install leveling links to raise the rear end...or drop the front forks in the triple clamps. If you get the rear a little higher or exactly level ( Kinda like balancing a see saw...) You could induce the dreaded head shake simply by hitting a pot hole or a seam in the interstate. I would bet if you did both ,install leveling links and drop the forks in the clamps...you could be at risk. If you go to extreme on the front alone...I think you could have some trouble. I just wanted folks to know that what Kitesquid said about lowering the front of his bike is very possible to cause the wobble he described...even some crotch rocket riders have encountered this head shake after messing around with rear and front suspension. I am speaking from experience from the motocross world...and suspect it would be the same with the RSV. I know several has successfully dropped the front about 1" with no problems...you just need to know NOT to go too too far with it.
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This can happen... From my Motocross racing experience...this is quite common. In motocross we constantly adjust the suspension...setting the RACE SAGE on the bike and adjusting the front forks in the triple clamps to allow the sometimes small racers to get at least one foot on the ground. IF you happen to get the geometry of the bike off a little, we found this was where the rear is level with the front of a little bit higher that the front. In racing when you are in the gas the rear will swat a little and this helps to keep the head shake away. Head shake could not happen for a days or months till you hit a really hard bump going down hill with the weight of the bike shifted to the front. It takes all the strength you have to stop it on a 205 lb dirt bike...I cannot imagine what it would be like on a 800 lb RSV. I think you guys that have never had this happen...you still have the rear lower than the front so you are good...I hope. If the conditions are right...All it may take is a pot hole or big bump to get it started. If you say drop the forks down in the triple clamps (lower front) and install leveling kit in the rear (raise the rear) you are setting your self up for the dreaded head shake wobble. If you ever get this...your instinct it to hit the brakes...and this is the worst thing you can do...brakes shift more weight to the front and make it worst. Gas in it...this shifts weight to the rear and stops the wobble. Most motocross racers that encounter it for the first time...crash...then they learn to never let that happen again and most can deal with it after they heal up. So be careful about dropping the front too much. The dreaded head shake could mean your life.
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Tell Rick what you are experiencing with your stock seat...he will fix it. I needed to be able to touch the ground flat footed with both feet...he did that plus made it sit better for the LONG halls. For so little money...I would try Rick out first.
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Wonderful...I get to learn something else. How do you email 47MB of PDF files?
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Same here...I got one but it is 14.7 MGB...I do not remember where I got it. Mine is a midnight...
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My first ride on a 2007 Midnight Venture
CMIKE replied to CaptainJoe's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Welcome to the site...and I think you are really gonna enjoy the bike. And you got a great deal on it. I think you need ride it a while before you do anything to the bike. You will see as you get used to the big baby, it gets better and easier everyday. I am 5'7" with a 30 inch inseam. At first the bike was a hand full for me. I was real concerned about the heavy feeling. I was really concerned I was gonna drop it at any moment especially when at slow speeds turning around. The Butler seat mod helped me get both feet on the ground flat footed so I felt more secure with both of them firmly planted. Also helped the already comfy seats get even better. As I rode the bike and watched the Ride Like A Pro video I found it to got easier. I think it built my confidence. I did drop it once when I touched the front brake while I was turning around. I did not know it but learned very quickly not to do that. I swapped out my Dunlop 404's at 5425 miles for a set of Dunlop E3's of stock size and that made a world of difference for me. The bike seemed like it was pivoting on bearings from that point on. Avons would probably do the same thing. Just get them dang 404's off that bike. E3's/Avons last longer and handle a bunch better. Best money I have ever spent on the bike. Remove the Dunlop 404's :TEAL: -
half helmet Microphone options. CB only and Intercom
CMIKE replied to KiteSquid's topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
Anybody wore these for a long period of time (Like all day) yet? Seems from the reviews... "First for the price I recommend, the wind problem in mic was solved by installing mic on/off switch from air rider plugged right in-line. Next problem was headband murdered the ears after a couple hours especially with sunglasses, went to the optional goggles strap that helped but by day 3 ears really hurting. Finally tied to helmet staps to take pressure off and that worked really well" "Who ever designed these headsets has not worn them for more than an hour. They don't stay on ears well, and begin pressing your ear lobe to the point of pain. I have learned to bend the heck out of them, then went a step further and glued a 1 inch thickness of foam to the ear pieces and now they are comfortable (sort of)." "just got the headset on thursday 8/20/09, took a five hour ride ,the sound it top, my wife said the mic was clear. for those who are having a problem with the wind muting the radio, try adjusting the ic mute level to around 10 or 11 this really works. if you adjust the ic volume to around 14 or so this really helps also. i agree the cord is too heavy and causes my left to hurt so i put a clip on the cord and clip it to my vest to take the pressure off my ear. this is the only real gripe i have. thus the 3 stars" I know some of you guys have them...what do you say -
Hell they will just create a FAKE one of those also...so why would they bother. I don't think they care who is in our boarders...Friend or Foe.
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I agree...not really against it...pain in the butt maybe...and it is not a political thread either...this is part of anti-terror rule is part of the Maritime Transportation Security Act of 2002. Folks are gaining access to these areas with FAKE cards regularly...that are supposed to super secure, with what they claimed "could not be duplicated or reproduced to insure top security" I just believe this is a FAILED program that does nothing for security. There is one thing the Goverment should be responsible for...keep us safe from attack. IT IS NOT happening if anybody and their brother can get one of these Fake cards and go into these locations with a dangerous intent.
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Sorry to hear you did not win AGAIN. I love your choice...I always wanted a dual wheel one ton 4 door four wheel drive. You said the 650 would be hard to park...absolutely. But...I got a single wheel 4 door F250 4x4 this is hard to park most of the time. Most parking places around here are not long enough...and not wide enough for a real truck. You have to really pick the places you stick it... Forget going up town and expect to stick it somewhere to run errans.
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Another Failed Goverment Program TWIC=Transportation Worker Identification Credential. A passport would not do...driver license would not do...So they developed the TWIC card. This is happening all over the place. We have to have them before entering some ports, before boarding vessels, and offshore production platforms. Requires (more than passport) multiple forms of ID ...finger printing...back ground check and a big long process to get, along with $132. Got a recent DWI, or past Drug charge or other spec of dirt on your record...prettty good chance you will be DENIED. These contain RFID like the new passports to transmitt all your personal data. See this from the news. Two men face charges after allegedly using fake TWIC ID cards to work at the Port of Fourchon, LA. The men, Ernesto Cordova, 25, and Roosevelt Amores, 32, were reportedly charged with illegal entry into critical infrastructure, in addition to invalid driver’s license charges after a security employee noticed several misspelled words on the fake TWIC cards. “It was a pretty good duplication,” Callais told the Houma Courier. “Only with the trained eye would you see there were some differences between that and a regular TWIC.” The men also are under suspicion for being the in U.S. illegally, the Courier newspaper also reported. According to the article, Harbor Police Chief Jon Callais said that the guard’s port training helped him zero in on the suspected workers. The Courier article didn’t say how many days the pair had used the fake TWIC cards to illegally enter the port, but the Port of Fourchon had been requiring TWIC cards for access for nearly a month at the time of arrest. Police said the men worked for the Danos and Curole offshore-service company. Callais told the New Orleans City Business publication in 2007 that Port Fourchon was vulnerable to terrorism at that time because it had “no cargo tracking system, no incoming vessel identification, no gates and no way to track workers.”
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Good job...on everything I am sure you will enjoy the risers. You just need to ride that darlin... KeithR. - I also have a Zumo 660 and never had a problem with the sun on it to need a sun shade. I was real surprized that it would be that easy to see out in direct sunlight. I have tried to use LaPtops outside (can't see them at all) and figured that display was gonna be the same...
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My 07 RSV has the BAZ (three pin sockets on the front). I think I remember the 05 RSV that I did for my wifes cousin was the same. How fast is too fast? DOT says turn signals should be 60 to 120 flashes per minute. When I installed my LED turn signals...without the load equalizers....mine was flashing over 140 flashes per minute. Hazzard flashers were not effected. It was OK...but, I was concerned about the LEO stopping me off on a trip in another state...and I felt it could be an safety issue since they were flashing pretty fast. You can fix the high flash rate either of two ways. Load equalizers...some companies have one for the entire bike... and some have one for front and one for rear. I used one for both front and one for rear mounted under just under the trunk just behind the back seat. You can Replace flasher with a electronic version...kind like I used to have a truck without a towing package on it...the turn signals blink fast when I pulled a trailer with lights. I fixed it by adding a heavy duty flasher. I too noticed the LED boards did not seem to fit inside the turn signal lenses..and took a file and filed the edge of the boards down till they just dropped into the turn signal lenses. I had to do that on my 07 RSV the 05 RSV I did and my son's 08 VSTAR. I love my LED turn signals and 100 LED tail light that I got from custom dynamics.
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If you are thinking enclosed trailer...do not forget the inside height as the bike comes up the ramp and entering the trailer...Windsheild may hit the top of the trailer. Do not ask how I found this out. My buddies Ultra Classic is hauled in it all the time. Not the RSV with a stock windshield.
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if you are considering LED turn signals...I recommend them. I tired some of the repalcement LEDs Bulbs at first and took them out cause they did not appear to be much brighter than the stock incandescent bulb. Check this thread for some information on this http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30967 I would also recommend the LED tail/brake lights... All my stuff came from http://www.customdynamics.com/ They have everything you need. They have Turn signals kits for front and rear with load equalizers. http://www.customdynamics.com/yamaha_turn_signal_retro.htm Tail/bake lights with 100 LED's that will blind you. http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm They have a good tech support so if you get in a mess...call them. They are not hard to install and get working.
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No as a matter of fact I do not drink the stuff. Not strong enough for me. So are you gonna tell us who Tim Horton is? Must be a Canook thing.
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Who is Tim Horton?
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Lots more...see my list and photos here...get some more ideas...you are never done with her. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/album.php?albumid=276 ~Yamaha Billet Air Filter covers with K&N filters ~Yamaha Billet Carb covers ~Yamaha Billet Choke knob cover ~Yamaha Billet Engine Breather covers ~Yamaha Billet Fuel tank mount ~Yamaha Billet Motor mount bolt covers ~Yamaha Billet Oil Filler cap ~Yamaha Billet Passenger floorboard backing ~Yamaha Billet Passenger floorboards ~Yamaha Billet Master Cylinder covers (clutch and front brake) ~Yamaha Billet Front Brake caliper covers ~Yamaha Trunk Rack ~Baron 1" handle bar risers - Added rubber blocks to extend existing rubber block that stablizes fairing. ~Drilled out Stock exhaust ~Yamaha Leather Gas Cap cover (keeps reflection off windshield) ~Yamaha Saddle Bag Liners ~Yamaha Trunk rack bag ~Yamaha Passing lamps ~Yamaha Tinted lower wind vents ~Yamaha Travel Trunk wing with LED light ~LED tail light ~6" LED lights side under travel trunk - RED - low intensity with running lights and blink with turn signals. ~Knight Rider chrome license plate frame. Sequence back and forth with running lights and blink 3-5 seconds when brakes applied. ~2 LED spinner lights (look like knock off spinners from older cars) mounted on side of license plate mounting bracket. ~3" LED red lights custom mounted under backe of saddle bags. Work as running and brake lights. Strobe with strobe unit. ~LED turn signals with metric load equilizer ~LED replacement side reflectors ( installed relay to allow them to blink with turn signals) ~LED brake light strobe unit. Strobe LED tail light, trunk wing LED lights and 3" LED lights under saddle bags. Programmed to strobe 3 times then hold solid. see this link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32917 ~Tented lower wind deflectors and clear plastic on front fairing black. ~Kuryakyn chrome volt meter with key switch actived relay ~Install relay to remove load from key switch. ~Install aux fuse block (6 circuit) under seat. ~Butler thumb screws to attach rear saddle bags ~Butler thumb screws to attach seat. ~Front mud flap (modified JC Whitney) ~XM roady ll mounted on handlebars ( power supplied from under front fairing and audio jack split for Aux selection) Also set up to use Ipod here. ~Butler seat mod front and rear ~Utopia drivers back rest ~Kurakyn long horn dually highway pegs ~Passing light clearance mount (to allow fairing removal without removing passing lights). Later removed it cause the passing lights and lower wind deflectors stuck out to far and did not look right for me. ~Removed stock 404 tires with only 5400 miles. New Dunlop Elite 3 on front and rear ~ Zumo 660 installed and works great. ~Install FM Direct adapter under fairing for my XM Roady ll, so I can use the split Aux audio for my Ipod and not have to swap from XM to Ipod. ~Install Revco Dual Air horns. ~SpeedoHealer installed. ~Removed chrome wiskers from fron fairing. ~Moved XM radio to a RAM Mount on the right side and also added a RAM mount cup holder.
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I bet you could not find a snowmobile anywhere in the state.
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I live in Central Mississippi... I get up this morning and it is snowing HARD. So far we got 4 inches and it is not supposed to stop till noon. I believe some of you northern folks have wished this on us down here in the south. We do not own, nor can you buy any where around here...tire chains...snow shovels...de-icing gear. They have cancelled school cause folks do not know how to drive in snow. Knock it off. This is not funny.
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If I remember right...I think mine measured 1" with my caliper. I think mine stopped slipping due to I used a beer can to make the shim. Without the shim...they stay in place great till you put your feet on them... So far the beer can shins are working great. They been on there for 12,000 miles and have not moved at all.
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Tip to make them grip the crash bars... Cut you a shim from a aluminum coke or beer can. Mine would slip if I put the full weight of my leg on them. After the shim was installed...they have never moved again. I used the 1" clamps
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I also worked for 30 years in the electrical industry...Fluke or Simpson is the only one I trust my life to... Fluke has the best digital in my opinion. I have 2 Fluke 87...a 77 and 88 and 2 old Simpson 260 right now. Current measurement probaly Amprobe is the leader in that section. The 88 is an automotive meter...it also is great for reading RPM's on your bike while doing carb syncs. The whole 88 kit with all the accessories will run you around $350 but does just about everything. As stated above...Sears has some pretty good meters for the hobby electrical guy. They also sell Fluke products.
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Custom dynamics has a lot of different stuff to choose from. Everything I have purchased from them, I have really liked and it all works great. I have the Knight rider sequential with flashing brake alert. You can see it in action here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32917