uncledj
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Everything posted by uncledj
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As far as the tire goes, I'm sure you're right. Should be pretty cheap anyhow. I think it's a 4.80 x 8 which is a pretty common tire. I have a 57 Ford Tractor / backhoe, and I think the rear tires are original. They both have been banded to prevent the tubes from blowing through, and I silicone up the cracks as I find them. At this point, it's kind of a game where since I rarely use the backhoe, I refuse to spend the $$$ to replace the tires when the old ones get me by......the tires aren't the only thing worn out on that ol' gal. Leaks, smokes, creaks, but always starts and digs great. .....Don't ask me how I got off on that tangient.....
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No, I can't see how it'd hop. The single wheel is on a swivel, which would allow it to turn.
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I went and checked it out. It was all there, but a lotta rust, the wheel and pivot turns smooth but tight. Plates say that it was last licensed in 86. I offered the guy $80 for it and he took it. I figured I couldn't go wrong. I'll weld up a hitch for it, sandblast and paint, clean and grease the bearings, will still have to determine whether to keep the tire or not. Looks ok, but pretty old. When I make a hitch, I was planning on making it to swivel up and down, but not turn. One poster suggested a u joint type of hitch, allowing the trailer to turn with the bike...which sounds interesting, but I'm not sure of what benefit I'd get by having the trailer turn with me. It seems like it'd be easier to back out of a spot without lateral motion.....any thoughts from anyone who's been through it would be appreciated.
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I thinks you'll find that you have a "Ford Chassis", not a "Ford Workhorse Chassis". Workhorse bought the old General Motors chassis division and used the GM big block engines. They have since sold out to International Trucks and there are no more GM big blocks. 2001 Challenger.prod 2 - RVUSA.com Could be...I was just going by what it says in the brochure.
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Glad to hear that you got your heater goin'. You'll be needing it pretty soon. I don't have a question, but would like your opinion on something Ford related. I bought a 2001 motorhome with a Ford Workhorse Chassis. It has the Triton V10 in it. What do ya think of the motor, and is there anything I should be on the lookout for? I'm planning on keeping this thing for a while, so I want to make sure I can head any problems off at the pass. Thanks:cool10:
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He wants $150 for it. It looks a bit rough, but with a little elbow grease (and paint) it might make a nice Winter project. I can fab up a hitch easy enough, but have difficulty imagining the dynamics of a trailer rigidly mounted to the bike, and leaning with the bike. I guess you wouldn't have to worry about it jack knifing anyway. I'll give him a call tomorrow and see if I can nab it. Any further opinions appreciated....I've never pulled a trailer and am not sure what to expect.
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Posted a pic and a link. (forgot)
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Don't know how I'd feel towing something like this. Was thinking about turning it into a motorcycle trailer, but don't know if it'd be safe. bjmrt-3269559198@sale.craigslist.org http://images.craigslist.org/5N85L15M83M93Fe3Jec9df2847bb5042e1d3b.jpg
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In their great wisdom the Founding Fathers put the Second Amendment only behind the First. They understood the importance of free speech, and knew that without the right to bear arms, there would be no way to protect the right to free speech. If we lose the Second Amendment, it's likely that we'll eventually lose the First. There are many who would scoff at this perception and believe it should be the governments job to protect us from all evils, but common sense indicates that this just isn't possible. They think that the risks of private gun ownership are too great, but with great freedoms come great risks. As for me I'll take what's left of the freedoms and accept the risks. I could go on and on about this (and many other) issue(s), but I suppose it could be considered political, and I know that's frowned upon in this venue. Anyhoo, that's my $.02:301:
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CONGRATS!!! Now do tell....what's the secret to not getting a sore butt on long rides?
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Wow. I'd hate to think of how many times that guy cracked up learning to do all those stunts. That's truly a case where man and machine become one.
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I was working in the basement of the Borden Building in Downtown Columbus, servicing some computer room cooling equipment. Thought the first one was an accident until the second one hit. Qwest communications (whose equipment I was working on) made all outside contractors leave the premises, since they handled government communications, and wanted to remove any potential security risks. Had a hard time getting through to work to find out where I should go next because the cell phone lines were overloaded. I had to go to a pay phone to get through. It wasn't until later that day that the gravity of it hit. Couldn't do much but bow my head and say a silent prayer for the dead / dying. That was living history for us all.
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Something you can try, if you have no way to read micro-amps is to take a copper core spark plug wire, strip about an inch or so from one end, then connect the other end to the ignition module in place of the existing spark / sense wire. Put it into and ignition sequence and hold the stripped end close enough to spark to the ground rod (next to the ignitor rod) and let it light, making sure the copper wire is fully in the flame. The ignition module should sense the flame and continue to burn. If it still shuts down after 5 seconds, chances are that the module is bad. I've done this a couple of times in a pinch when I needed to confirm a bad flame sensor. The sensor is simply a steel rod, so it's pretty rare that they go bad, but it does happen.
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Yes, that's an electrode, and yes, it's possible that they're using it to sense flame also. While I've never seen one like it, the fact that it has the additional bend at the end to put more of the rod into the flame seems to support this. If you could post info on the type of ignition control, or at least post how the terminals are marked, I could probably tell you for sure. Be aware though, this is NOT a thermocouple. Thermocouple and flame rod are two completely different beasts. Have you tried cleaning it yet? Be aware that there must be a good ground path from the burner back to the module for it to sense.
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Sometimes they use the electrode as the flame sensor. It can do double duty if it's set up that way. Make sure it's clean. If the unit is sparking and lighting, you need not worry about the sail switch. If it wasn't making, it wouldn't try to light at all.
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Are y'all talking about the furnace blower which distributes the heated air throughout the camper, or are you talking about the combustion blower, which creates a draft for combustion...??? Furnace blower will be energized either through a time delay, (delay on upon a call for heat, then delayed off after loss of call) or through a temperature switch, which would allow the plenum to heat up a bit, then shut down the blower after it cools. For a camper, I'd bet it'll be a time delay style, but I'm not sure. A combustion blower will typically run for 30 seconds or so as a pre purge,..as a safety measure, to clear the heat exchanger of any raw gas before the ignition sequence begins, then will continue to run for as long as the unit is firing, and in some cases (rarely) they'll have it set up to run a post purge as well.
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I'm not an RV tech, but I am a HVAC Tech. What seems to be happening is that it's going through an igniton trial, but not sensing the flame. It burns for 5 seconds waiting for the igniton module to sense flame, and if it doesn't it'll shut down to keep from allowing raw gas to build up. (safety issue) The most likely cause will be an oxidized flame rod. It'll look like a thermocouple, but with just a single wire coming off of it. Clean it with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad....avoid using sandcloth. If that doesn't do it for ya, make sure any ground wiring is intact, and making good connection. The flame sensing circuit will actually prove flame by passing a small bit of electricity through the flame to ground, and back to the igniton module. (Probably between 0.5 and 2 micro amps) If none of that does it for you, you may be due for a new igniton module. PM me if you need further advice.
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Depends on what ratings the switches have also. The only reason to run a relay at all is if the load of the lights is higher than what the switch can handle on its own. Driving lights can easily be a heavy enough load that a typical switch won't handle it. The marker lights shouldn't be an issue. If you have heavy enough switches, you don't need the relay(s) at all.
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Went on a road trip through the NE corner of Pennsylvania last weekend. Stopped at a place near Titioute on Route 6 called Simpler Times museum. Happened on it by chance, found the door to be locked, with a sign "open by appointment or chance". Just then an old timer (88) stopped by in his truck and opened up. He lives just out back, so if it's closed you can probably get him to open up.....he loves to tell you about the history of the stuff inside. Mostly old cars, trucks, gas pumps, drilling equipment and tractors. He'll charge you $4 to enter, and it's money well spent. He has quite a collection in the 5 or 6 buildings on site. I particularly enjoyed the two ancient Mac Trucks he has. One of them is chain drive. My peeps and I were glad we stopped. If you're in the area, check it out.....you'll be glad you did.
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Oh, what have I done
uncledj replied to Oldseadog's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Not sure without looking what the screw heads look like, but most phillips head screws have enough of a head to grab with a pair of vice grips. It usually mars the screw head a bit, but it usually works for me. -
Back in the day, my wife (then girlfriend) and I were on my KZ1000, doing about 70, on the freeway, in broad daylight when a group of 5 white tails bolted from the woods and across the road. We went right through the middle of the group, skidding the back tire the whole time. They ran in a line, and we went between #3 and #4. Nothing I coulda' done, it was just one of those things.
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Was putting the side panels back on after replacing some of the louvers that had come apart. I noticed how the bad louvers were warped, and figured it must be from the excessive heat they're subjected to. As I thought about it, I don't remember ever wanting to open them, and how even when closed the heat coming through them is uncomfortable, so I decided to block them. I put a thin piece of insulation over them, with a dab of silicone at each corner to hold them in place. If anyone wants a bit of this insulation to do this, let me know and we'll work something out.
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The back pipes are also a lot shorter than the front, so maybe the way they enter the collector gives added restriction to help match the restriction from the longer front pipes....???...
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I got kinda lucky with where I made the second cut with this one. I really don't see how you could get it apart without ripping the perforated screens apart, unless you cut the top out just about exactly where I did, and then you'd still have to deal with the baffle welded to the bottom. There's really nothing to them. I'm still amazed at how much it affected the sound of my bike. Sounded like a rattling exhaust leak.
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For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
