uncledj

She did point out one of the blue ones....I wonder if it was yours. She liked the blue color scheme, and I did too, but I've always been partial to black cherry.

In NE Pennsylvania, there's a "Simpler Times Museum" on scenic Route 6 near Titioute that is worth seeing. BTW, I enjoyed our brief conversation while the wife was checking out the pond. Godspeed, ...have a safe and enjoyable trip.

The wife and I took the ride up to Oberlin to check out what was going on for MD 2013 and she (and I) really liked the look of some of the second gens that we saw there. She said " we should get one of those". After years of saying how much she liked our first gen, she's definitely open to a newer bike. Having said that, I couldn't imagine EVER selling ol' blue....I love that bike. I told her that maybe next year we'd look for a second gen. It'd have to be a looker, preferably the ? black cherry ? color scheme, with plenty of safety chrome, with a big comfy back seat for her. Any thoughts on which years I should be looking for? I don't know that I'm ready to buy right now, unless I came across just the right bike. (I'd prefer to pay cash), but if anyone becomes aware of one for sale, keep me in mind. Location isn't that important....I'd be open to flying out and riding back for the right bike. I'd keep riding the first gen, but when she want's to go with me, I'd ride the second gen. As much as I love the performance, reliability and comfort of ol'blue, I gotta admit,....those are some sharp bikes.

Hey... I posted a couple of years ago about smoking my friends Harley and the folks on this site gave me a lot of heat about it. Mostly that it was dangerous to do so, and that Harleys weren't built for racing and such. How come you guys get an attaboy??? http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52516

a passport moped/scooter (German Village) http://images.craigslist.org/3G63M93Nf5I35T55Hfd5u2cd3e5cf664814f7.jpg Selling a 1981 Honda Passport. Great bike for the summer. Its a two seater, it is in great shape and runs.... It had its tires replaced last season, along with seat and a bunch of other things. am replacing the batery and adjusting a few things tonight. Pls feel free to email any questions. Asking price is $1,000

I recently bought a van off of the company I work for. It has high miles, but runs well, needs a little tlc, but it's a one ton Chevy, with a motor and tranny less than 50,000 miles old, with a ladder rack and all the tool / parts bins and shelves. I got it for scrap price.....probably less than scrap price at $500. In any case, part of the deal is that I have to remove all company decals and was wondering what's the quickest / best way to do it without damaging the paint. It has a large stripe, a smaller stripe and the company lettering across both sides and the back. I was thinking about using a heat gun, but am concerned I'll damage the paint. I think they're vinyl. Any other ideas on how to remove these decals?

Hey....ya wanna sell it??? LOL I was looking around a bit, thinking about buying one for the motorhome, and found that there was a fairly wide array of prices. Generally, I found that the larger the motor, the higher the price. Honda's seem to hold value a little better than most, but if you passport runs and is in fair shape, I'd guess it to be worth between $500 and $1000. Check out Craigslist and e-bay to get an idea of value. Rock on.

Back home in Central Ohio now. About 6 miles North of Centerburg, which is the geographical center of OH.

I went through Toledo on Saturday, on my way to Detroit, but was in the motorhome....it's mostly white, but I doubt it could be mistaken for a Venture.

I'm sure he'd have taken a gander at the contactor to make sure it wasn't burnt/ overloaded, and I'd hope he'd at least taken a continuity reading to be sure he has good contact through the compressor terminals. (often rusted) If not, the compressor may be trying to start without the start circuit.. If all otherwise seems well, he can install a hard start kit, but after reading through the thread, it sounds like you may be able to get a new system paid for by insurance, so I don't want you to discourage you from that, although be aware they'll likely have to replace the indoor coil as well, as R22 and even dry shipped units are becoming hard to find. I typically make all reasonable effort to get a compressor to start before I condemn them, but I rarely work on single phase equipment, which requires more consideration for starting than three phase. Let us know what ya end up doing. Best of luck:080402gudl_prv:

I'd get a second opinion. Wish I lived out your way....I'd stop by and take a look. In any case, if the system was working fine until the power issue, I really don't see it having any effect on the defrost board. The compressor probably tripped on thermal overload trying to restart so quickly so many times, and the added load may have fried the capacitor, but capacitors are cheap, and I'd want to know that the compressor wouldn't start after it had a chance to cool down, with a good capacitor and contactor before I'd be willing to change it out. Keep in mind there's a lot of outfits out there that'll try like heck to sell you a new system, rather than make simple repairs to get the existing system going. I hate to admit it, 'cause it makes all us HVAC guys look like crooks, but, truth be told, there's a lot of them out there. (I'm proud to say I'm no crook)....sounds like Richard M Nixon right before he left office. LOL. Anyhoo, I'd get a second opinion. You'll often get the most honest response from a tech who's moonlighting the service call, and not pressured by his/her employer to sell you a new unit. More than half the time I'm asked for a second opinion, it conflicts with the first opinion, in the customers favor. Feel free to contact me if you think I can help. Best of luck.

I ended up brazing them both for ya. The ? choke shaft ? is brazed, and at least as strong as original, but will need a bit of reshaping before installation. I didn't realize it was so small from the pics. It was like trying to braze a brazing rod. LOL There's a rubber seal at the base, so I immersed it in "cool gel", only allowing the top to stick out to keep the rubber from being distorted. I included pics showing what it looked like after brazing, then after I removed a bit of material. I stopped before I took it down to a smaller diameter than original. I figure if you can fit it to whatever slides on it, it'd be a better fit than me guessing. I included a few small pieces of emery cloth to sand it down. Simply clamp it in a vice (use a soft jaw) then take the strips of emery cloth that I ripped down to 1/4" or less and pull them back and forth across the radius until you get the size you want. It'll sand down pretty easily. (brass) I must say that the pin on the bottom is bent a bit, and that may be a problem for you. (It was that way when I got it) I was afraid to try to straighten it, as I didn't want to break it. As far as the jet ski thingy, I ground the (kinda) weld off then brazed it as well. The pin that went through the head was a pretty loose fit, but the braze filled in the gap well. I can't see it being a problem again. I'll put them back in the mail tomorrow, and am including a piece of 45% silver wire, along with a dab of brazing flux, and a bit of emery cloth. Anyhoo, I did the best I could...hope it works out for you.

Still getting used to the new 410a, but it looks to me like you should be running a bit over 100 suction (vapor) pressure with 15+ degrees superheat. Liquid pressure at 330 should be good. I'd ask what the temp of the liquid line is. On a 75 degree day it should be lukewarm, or even a bit cooler. The suction line should be nice and cool,...cool enough to sweat but not ice cold. If superheat and subcooling mean anything to you, you should try to get around 15 degrees superheat and around 10 degrees subcooling. Those numbers should be pretty close, but I'd have to research to give you textbook numbers. Suction and liquid line temperatures are just as important as pressures. Incorrect orifice would be a cause of low suction / freezing, so would lack of airflow. Other things to consider are a partially plugged orifice or liquid line filter, or if it has a TXV as a metering device it may need adjusted. I would also want to know the temperature drop across the evaporator and the condenser. It could just need a bit more of the ol' freezone. As far as you friend not being familiar with R410, I've found that it's got pretty much the same characteristics as R22, but just runs higher pressures. Many of the new blends have a wide temperature / pressure "glide" which makes charging a challenge, but R410 really doesn't have that problem. I got edjumicated and certified for R410 a couple of years ago, but mostly forgot what I learned in the books, and rely on experience to get me by. Every now and again I do have to refer to the charts though. Best of luck. Let us know what happens.

The two most likely causes of evaporator (inside coil) freezing will be that it's low on refrigerant or that there's a lack of airflow due to a clogged filter, or matted dirt on inlet side of evaporator coil. I'd bet that it's low on refrigerant, which will beg the question...Where did the refrigerant go???? The guy who looks at it will probably charge it up and it'll be ok for a while, but this problem will come up again in the future. Depending on the age, it may be an R22 or a R410a system. If it's R22, you'll want them to make some effort to find and repair any leaks, as R22 is becoming quite expensive. If it's R410a, the refrigerant will be 1/3 of the cost, but any leaks still should be found and repaired. Finding and repairing leaks can be a pita, so the tech will probably try to get out of it if he / she can. You may have to push a bit, but if you're paying for their time....time is money. Keep in mind that as it loses refrigerant, it'll loose cooling capacity, and without enough refrigerant, the compressor loses it's cooling, up until the system loses enough gas to freeze up the evaporator, then with the lack of airflow, liquid refrigerant can / will return to compressor. Plenty of compressor cooling then,....but very unhealthy for compressor. Liquid refrigerant will foam the oil as it boils out, and oil foam doesn't lubricate adequately,....and should liquid refrigerant get to the head it'll be lights out for the compressor. Liquid doesn't compress so well. Point being....when these systems are properly charged and maintained they'll run practically forever. When they're allowed to suffer abuse, they die pretty quickly. Sorry for the rambling. I've been doing this for over 25 years now, and the post struck a chord. Hope this helps.

First weld never had penetration. I'd do the same thing again, only better. Send it to me and I'll do it up for ya. It'd take about 30 seconds. If you want to keep it local, find someone who knows how to weld and have them do a proper job. I wouldn't worry about whether it's a stainless weld or not. If you want to, you can do a high silver content braze to that as well. A little trickier on stainless, but would be non corrosive and stronger than the weld that was done. Again, I can send you a bit of silver wire and flux if you want to try it.

Soldering would be easy, but I don't think it'd give you much additional strength. I dunno how good you are with a torch, but if you want to try brazing it with a high silver content wire, that'd be the easiest way to get some strength without having to build up a mass of solder or braze. If you want to try it lemme know, I can send ya a bit of either 45% or 56%.....won't take much...not sure which I have in the truck, along with a dab of hi temp brazing flux. If it was me, I'd take a small file and deepen the groove along the crack and fill the groove with silver. PM me with an address if you want me to send ya some.

Finally got the chance to head over to Hilliard and deliver the letter. I tried to explain about the "website" for motorcycle enthusiasts, and how I came across the letter, and (through help from members) came to find her, but she seemed to about half understand. I asked if Wetzel had any kids and she said "no, he was too young for that". She also said it was in Germany that he was killed, and I didn't feel it was appropriate to press for details. In any case, the letter's been delivered.....task completed. Much thanks to Prairierhammer (Kevin) who did the legwork to make this happen.

I had pretty much the same problem last Summer. I ended up replacing the collector with one I got from Dingy. I cut the old one apart, and found the problem was actually that the divider had broken loose from the base. (spot welds) I welded it all back together, and as far as I can tell, it should be fine. If you can't get yours to work, lemme know and we can work out a deal on the one I repaired. Hell,....you can have it if you want,.....just pay for shipping. If you click on my profile and search "links started by uncledj", there's a thread titled "Exhaust collector repair" There's pics of the collector cut apart then welded back together. Lemme know

Could be the defrost timer, the defrost terminator, one or both of the defrost heaters, or could even be a failed freezer fan motor. The toughest thing about working on freezers is that you really have to allow the ice to melt to be able to remove the panels and freely access the components to diagnose and replace. If you're able to unload the freezer and allow it to thaw, and if you're ok with using a basic multi-meter it should be fairly simple to figger it out and make the repair.

A proud Uncle and a proud Grandpap all in one. Way to go!

My wife said "Fix that gutter downspout TODAY!" So I invited the boys over. One brought his welding machine, one brought a pipe cutter the others brought beer. Took us about 4 hours, mostly for the beer, but we got the downspout fixed. Wife is still speechless... I am certain not for much longer though. http://us.f1213.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f12580203%5fAG9wimIAAAR7UZBOTAAAAMd%2bl2Y&pid=1.2.2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeoCL

Hey ....I just looked and my OH cc permit is about to expire... I'll stop by the Sheriffs Office on Monday and get that taken care of. All the confusion throughout the States would seem to necessitate some sort of Federal permit. If you travel a lot it'd be easy to get yourself into trouble without knowing you're doing anything illegal. I'm just sayin'.....

Boy, that's a tough call, but I think I'm leaning towards the Kreem three part kit. There seems to be more than a few out there who said it failed for them, but I'd bet they didn't do the prep right. The other kind doesn't need to go through all the prep, but I don't like the idea of it bonding to rust......what's the rust bonded to...??? In any case, I'll coat the inside before painting the outside. Thanks for the input.

I voted for Lauren......I hope that's your niece.

I found a tank with bad paint, but no dents, and with some small, patched holes along the bottom edge of one side of the tank. All in all I'm pretty pleased with it, especially considering I got it for a total of $38 to my door. I'm not too worried about the epoxy patches. The tank seems solid, and I'm pretty good with a MIG welder, so I'll grind the epoxy off and weld up the holes. Since they're pretty much out of sight, I won't have to worry too much about making the patches look perfect, but I will give it a shot. The tank I dented was very clean inside, and the replacement is rusted inside. I've never tried coating a tank with the sealer, and was wondering if there's any specific kit that's better than others, and how to go about the reseal. This will be a new procedure for me and I'd like to do it right.