uncledj

Can't say I remember anything I could say you were wrong about, but I hope you're wrong about that.

Thanks for your generous offer....I already have a bell and a flag, so best to let it go to someone not so fortunate.

There's a couple of different ways Ford does it. One is a cover over the hole in the bumper where you insert the rod to lower the spare. The cover has a key slot in it, and the key is hidden in the vehicle key-fob. The one I was talking about is on the end of the rod that you insert and turn to lower the spare. It's like a mini lug nut style wheel lock. Youtube says a 12 point 14 mm socket can be driven over the special protruding stub that the special rod fits over. Might be able to do it with a cheap socket, but we had good ones and we couldn't drive it over the stub. I get the feeling the cheap sockets will stretch.

Buddy has a leaking tire on a 2011 Ford F250, so last weekend, while out at the farm with the motorhome for the holiday weekend, he decided he wanted to put the spare on. He didn't have the factory tire change kit, and lemme tell ya,....without the proper key, that tire ain't coming off without destroying some structure under the truck. Youtube showed how easy it is to remove the tire using a 14mm socket, but it wouldn't work for us. After a half hour or so he decided to drive it to a dealer to see if they could do anything with it. Another one of Fords great ideas.

I wonder if we could incorporate some sort of a ride to / thru / along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

You may want to consider doubling up the clutch spring. It's a wave style, and makes a major performance difference. Obviously, you'll want to check or replace the clutch discs, but do the spring as well. Some folks think it makes the clutch a bit stiff, but I can't say that I've even noticed much of a difference on mine. I hate it when you want power and roll the throttle on only to rev the engine while the clutch slips. Welcome back to the fold !!!

Tuff thing about my trade is that when it gets warm, we get very busy. Don't have the time to ride like I'd like to.

Agreed....And I've learned the hard way that making eye contact with a driver doesn't mean it's actually registered in their brain that you're there. Looked a fella eye to eye and had him pull out in front of me. He had a stop sign and I was on a thoroughfare....slowed down when I saw him there...made eye contact...figured I was good...then he pulls out. Lesson learned....

Haven't put the anchor points on yet. Waiting on the bolts...decided to go with 5/16. I don't know that I'd feel comfortable using the factory tie down points for a heavy bike. I do know that I'll feel comfortable with the anchor points I'll install.

Ya don't need a bike to be an important part of this family. I'll look forward to hearin' from you in the days to come.

I'll check the spokes on my old TT600 next time I set my eyes on it. Thanks for the info.

Good to know. I use a LOT of stainless bolts/nuts/washers. Where I live, EVERYTHING rusts, and I hate dealing with rusted bolts. Did the math and it still comes out to 2200 pounds per bolt. I typically tie the front down at 2 different points for each side, just as a safety measure. I'm usually more concerned about the failure of a strap than failure of the attach point. I don't know how that works, because I'm sure a 1/4" bolt won't support 2200 lbs. I'd imagine it'd depend on the amount of thread surface between the nut / bolt. I've wondered about the strength of the aluminum tie down points that came with the trailer.

Already ordered all the "stuff". Stainless button head bolts for the heavy duty tie down points. Planning on putting a hardwood plank beneath the bed for the bolts to go through. The plank will extend perpendicular to the 2x8s, across the underside of the bed. Bolts will go through the recessed hold down, the 2x8 and the hardwood plank. Only 1/4' bolts, but 4 per hold down...Fender washers and nylon locknuts. I also got a bunch of single hole tie downs to mount on the uprights for bungees and such. Again, all stainless tie downs and bolts. I'll send a pic when I git-er-dun. https://www.ebay.com/itm/232241609909?var=531462564260

I've a similar trailer and I had the same problem. I ended up cutting out the front and welding up a bracket to allow the bike to move forward a bit.

Looking at adding recessed tie down points , maybe 6 or 8 of them and don't know if I'd be comfortable with these as the primary tie downs (Forks). I'd certainly have to find a way to make them more sturdy than just bolting to the floor....would need something going to the frame...but I can deal with that upon install. These are listed at a working load of 2000 lbs. Would you tie your bike down using these? Typically rachet straps to the base of the forks... https://www.ebay.com/itm/224289891819?hash=item3438b825eb:g:bugAAOSwKcxf4osf

I've never served, but my Father served WWII in Italy, and my older brother is a Combat Veteran of Vietnam, and I often reflect on the fact that if Dad hadn't returned, I wouldn't be here, and if Lenny hadn't returned, my life would have been much different. He's been a powerful force in my formative years. Thanks, Dad and Lenny, and ALL Vets for your service and your sacrifice. Not just the USA, but the world would be less, had you not served.

Went with the 7 x 14 aluminum, with the wood floor. Decided to go with the wood floor 'cause the trailer I have now is 17 years old with original wood that's still in good shape and I sometimes get creative when trailering oddball stuff and end up building off of the floor, which means driving screws into it. I think the wood is a lot more forgiving of such mistreatment. Anyhoo, went and picked it up today. Thanks everyone for your input.....Always valued and sometimes even wise. 😃

I bought one at a VR Rally...I think it was in New York...don't remember. I think it came from Ace. Looks great...no glare....but can be a pain to get secured....sometimes I'll spend a minute or two fiddling with it before I can get rollin'.

I use my trailer for other things as well, and sometimes it can be a bit rough on the decking. I wonder if the aluminum will hold up as well as the wood.

Just saw this one advertised locally. Wood deck....Hmmmmm.... Says Aluminum and steel construction. Don't know what to make of that.

I agree, but I use my trailer for lotsa other things, and the biggest reason for thinking I better go with aluminum, is that, as I'm nearing 60, my steel trailer seems to be getting heavier. I checked out a larger aluminum, and I was able to move it around with no trouble. Your story reminds me of several years ago I joined several members for a get together and ride down at ?Snowden? Park in South East Ohio. I cleaned the bike up nicely, waxing and polishing the chrome...loaded it on the trailer and took the motohome / trialer down for the weekend. It was a hot, dry Summer day and the gravel / dirt roads at the park made such a dust cloud that I couldn't see the bike in the rear-view camera through the cloud. Spent a couple of hours trying to get the bike presentable again. It was completely covered, and every nook and cranny full of dust.

Being an aluminum trailer, I'd have to use stainless for tie down points.

The members I've met know that when Lisa and I attend events or rallies, we usually drive the motor home and trailer the bike. I'm thinking about getting an aluminum trailer, (open) and going a bit larger to carry two bikes in case I want to bring friends along. I can get a 6'4" x 12' for neighborhood of $3000. Comparable traditional steel trailer sells for neighborhood of $1700. The aluminum is attractive because I can move it around a lot easier, whereas to shuttle the steel trailer around typically requires that I hook it up to my 4 wheeler. I'm leaning towards aluminum, but am wondering how durable they are, and if an aluminum deck would be slippery. I also wonder if I can build bulletproof tie down points on an aluminum trailer. Thoughts??? Opinions???

But is it so wrong to love them all???