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Dave77459

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Everything posted by Dave77459

  1. Dave77459
    Speaking of LEDs... here is my Roxie. Usually I let it "breathe" in green or yellow when I am running at night. No use being too fancy. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3XGhGjYQNE]Fusion lights on Roxie - YouTube[/ame]
  2. Dave77459
    The tear drop is interesting, for sure. I have the stock headlamp, currently running a PIAA bulb. I also have the stock passing lamps, currently with 35W Hella H3 bulbs. I replaced my 55W Hella H3 bulbs on the weekend, as they were too thirsty for my charging system. No matter, the 35W Hellas make it look like I have three very bright headlights. Very. Bright. If you are truly worried about light, look at the tail end. That single taillight is a hazard, as far as I am concerned. I added the Electrical Connection LED tail light conversion kit as well as the Custom Dynamics Genesis 100 LED tail light. I might swap out my rear turns signals for something even brighter. I do a lot of riding at night. Safety first! Dave
  3. Dave77459
    Really? Do you have non-Yamaha photos, because the front end Yamaha is showing for the Stratoliner S is funky. The profile seems to bulge out, and the overall effect is like a droplet cut in half. The front end without the lowers looks odd to my eye, as well, like they forgot to assemble the whole bike. I can't imagine what that would look like with passing lamps. Maybe I'd put some SCMR16 self-cointained HIDs on the handle bars, because the bike looks to like being naked. Just proves there are bikes for every taste. I like my muscular Roxie with her lowers and olde-fashioned bucket and passing lamps. Like a police bike, with lots of presence and reserved power. *shrug* Dave
  4. Dave77459
    My odometer is over reporting 3-4%. If it under reports 3-4%, I'll get used to it, I suppose. I estimate speed from the GPS. I rarely look at the dashboard. But I would like to get my cruise control to work at Texas Highway Legal speeds. Right now it stops at 78mph, because it thinks I am going 90. Dave
  5. Dave77459
    Thanks for the clarification! Can't them yankees use the right word for stuff? Sheesh! Dave
  6. Dave77459
    My concern wasn't so much MPG as it was service intervals. Re-reading your earlier thread, it seems the difference in odometer isn't so much. 1%? If I want to change my oil every 3000 miles, it will actually be 3030 miles? Dave
  7. Dave77459
    We were talking about the mirror this weekend, and someone mentioned a member who has a mirror permanently mounted to a pole in his garage, IIRC. Makes it easy to check your oil as a habit. When you go past, check your oil. I might mount a mirror to an LED area light, so I can get illumination while I look. I always need a flashlight. Dave
  8. Dave77459
    BBQ? Are these made of brisket or something? Dave
  9. Dave77459
    I have had drips for two different reasons. The first is when I followed the instructions in the service manual and put in the spec'd amount of oil. When you do that, your engine is overfilled. Simply, they quote the amounts based on clean, new engines without oil in it. You can't get it as dry as they say. When overfull, the excess oil blows out and causes a drip. If you remove your tank, you'll see it oily on top. The correct procedure is to add a half quart too little, run the engine for a few minutes to warm it and then let it sit for a few minutes and check in the site glass. If it is in the center of the glass, don't add more. If not, add a little more and repeat. If you fill to the top of the site glass, you are over full, and you can expect drips. The second drip happens to me all the time when riding with groups. I vented the fuel tank filler neck to be able to add more gas until the tank is full. At that point, I need to ride 10+ miles to get the level down. But what happens is the group is slow and the bike sits in the sun for 10 minutes, warming the cold gas. It expands, and drips down to leave a spreading puddle. No big deal, unless you own the gas station and don't want gas stains on your pavement. If you recently topped off the oil to the top of the site glass, I wouldn't worry. If you had just filled your gas tank and let it sit, I wouldn't worry. Dave
  10. Dave77459
    I forget what happens to your odometer? Are you showing extra miles or too few? Dave
  11. Dave77459
    That really is handsome! Dave
  12. Dave77459
    I found this post very interesting. Note the red.
  13. Dave77459
    HID - High-Intensity Discharge (wikipedia)
  14. Dave77459
    As suggested, I followed the positive lead to, but couldn't see where it went without pulling the battery. I found what I believe to be the starter relay behind the left plastic panel. I removed the passenger floorboards and the plastic plate and looked at it with much befuddlement. "I see it... now what?" Anyways, after trying the battery many times playing Marco/Polo with the relay, the battery was tuckered out. I put it on the charger for a little bit, then tried again. The engine turned over, then the battery was dead. That was quick! Charging a bit more, I pulled the headlamp fuse so there wouldn't be as big a drain during starting. She started right up! I mean, fast! I put the fuse back in after letting her run for a minute to charge, and the relay clicked again. That's when I remembered what I did Friday. I'd opened the headlamp bucket where the passing lamp relay lives, so as to connect the kuryakyn master cylinder switch rather than energizing the relay with the front running lights. When I put the headlamp back in, I left a couple wires out of the protective wrap because I didn't remember them being part of the bundle. I wrapped them in and put the battery back on charge while I had dinner. Of course, she started right up when I tried after dinner. My working theory is that while riding Sunday morning, the unbundled wires somehow began to short or whatever. It drained the battery quickly. Riding home, it was charged, and was still when I tried to start her right after getting home. But then they drained the battery. I'm hoping she will start again in the morning, because it's "ride your girlfriend to work day." This is primo riding weather. If she does run, I'll spend our SE Texas Maintenance Day this Saturday tracking down if there is a battery leak somewhere. I'm expecting there is. Anyways, thanks for the help, and I'll be back if I have more questions or issues. Dave
  15. Dave77459
    If I hook up the LED computer to the fuse block, I get no power. However, if I jiggle the wire/post, I hear the LED computer beep. None of the other posts and devices connected to them are seemingly impacted. It's like a connection inside the fuse box are loose or broken. I am apparently more skilled at screwing up systems than I thought, so I wouldn't put it past me. Thank you for the HOW-TO. I'd wondered how to investigate this. I appreciate your effort! Dave
  16. Dave77459
    I have never put anything but regular in the bike. I've heard time and again that anything else is a waste of money, but I haven't heard of it damaging anything. Although, this ethanol gas will eat up the rubber. That stuff is poison. I wish they sold Pure Gas here, but were are EPA-non-compliant so we have to use this foul, energy wasting crap. On my RSTD, and the RSV as far as I can read the service manual, the front suspension is set via air valves at the top of the forks. You hook up a pump and inflate each independently to what you want. BUT DON'T USE A REGULAR AIR PUMP. These are low-pressure systems, with a maximum of 7.1 psi. People can recommend after market pumps, but I have always left mine at the factory setting of 0 psi. Zero. The rear shock also uses an air valve. It is just behind the driver's seat, on the right side, on the rear fender. This is on my RSTD, which doesn't have the luxe queen seat. I pull up my seat side flap, and there it is. Hope this helps! Dave P.S., if you keep the bike, do two things. Join the site (well worth the $12 a year) and go to a meet n greet. Heck, do both even if you don't join. We don't care what you ride, just do no evil.
  17. Dave77459
    Thanks. I'll take off the side cover to see if I spy the positive coming down. Great idea on the SM section on engine removal. They didn't hook up the AIS properly when they assembled her, so something else might be amiss. One thing I noticed is that one of the six leads on my auxiliary fuse block is loose. I had one open spot, and went to connect my LEDs to it, and I get intermittent power when I jiggle. Usually no, sometimes yes. I pulled the fuse and let it be. Could that be causing this problem? The other change I did was run power from the white accessory power lead to the Kuryakyn handlebar reservoir cover switches. The switches just energize relays, and they work even when I am in a buzzing period. (First thing I do is turn off the passing lamps using this switch, and try again. Then I turn on the lamps to see how bright they are--still very bright, so the battery is fine.) I don't think using the white accessory plug should cause problems, but it is the major change in the past week. Finally, she has been experiencing a battery drain for a few months, now that I think of it. So current is running somewhere. I thought it was my LED lights (they are computerized, so maybe it is drawing power), but perhaps there is something else? Any of these additional thoughts ring bells with anyone? Dave
  18. Dave77459
    Thanks Rick! Great ideas, and thanks for the how-to! Dave Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
  19. Dave77459
    I will agree with you. These were the cheap Canadian Cruising units so popular last summer. They weren't even that much brighter than my Ultra bulb. When I win the lotto, I am replacing my passing lamps with the self-contained units. There is just no place to hide all the HID components on the RSTD, since HID manufacturers insist on such short wires. Between the bulbs and supporting components. Right now, my headlamp combined with 55w PIAA passing lamps fat wired to the battery are plenty bright. Its like three headlamps. I'm going to 35w passing lamps to save amps. Dave
  20. Dave77459
    Just put the leads across the battery terminals? Are you coming to the MD this weekend? Dave
  21. Dave77459
    Thanks. I wondered if they were the same. Since IIRC the positive lead heads down, I guess I am taking out the battery. First on my list of things to do, now that I know where they are. I did a little wiggling of cables when I routed some accessories this weekend, so it is very possible I need a good clean job. Dave
  22. Dave77459
    Sunday I stopped for gas, and the bike wouldn't start with a buzzing noise. A push start later, and I was home. Of course, it started right up. This morning, I just got buzzing again. I've heard variously that it could be the starter solenoid or the starter relay. I just can't interpret the manual and the posts here as to where these are? Under the battery? Can someone kindly point me where it is? What does it look like? Dave
  23. Dave77459
    I got over 50,000 miles on my SilverStar Ultra, which is probably in excess of 1,000 hours. I think paid $35 for 2 bulbs. It looks like the Kurakyn Phase 6 LED headlamp is around $300. So it seems like I'd need about 17 of these SilverStar Ultras to break even with the Kury LED. I don't think my bike will last 850,000 miles, but I hope so! Even so, 17,000 hours seems like plenty and qualifies for "tens of thousands". On the other hand, I am looking at the newer Phase 7 headlamp and passing bulbs, so as to recover some watts. I tried HID and it died after a couple hundred miles, so I'm not travelling down that route again. Dave
  24. Dave77459
    Is anyone here running the new Truck-Lite Phase 7 headlamps? I admit to be unsure if they will fit the second gen. They are 7" round. Here is a review (first link) for Harley installs. Anyone running these? 25watts of LED brightness without the problem of hiding ballast. Dave
  25. Dave77459
    A couple things. If you decide to keep the bike, make sure you have the dealer transfer the warranty to you. This is a separate step that is important for your protection. But you may not keep it, sounds like. I'd be irritated with the dealer, and look at what "buyers remorse" statutes can protect you. Second, my bike has a bit of a whine, about like a BMW, so not all are unbearable. I've not been tempted to pursue a basket side-grade... sometimes they don't work, and I have read that sometimes the new basket made it worse. The dealers in my area are so... dispiriting... that I don't trust them to touch my bike, unless the engine blows up or something. I have managed what whine there is by managing my gear selection. There is a narrow band of worst whine, +/- 10mph in certain gears. I've found that there is very little whine when I run 70mph in 4th gear. I notice no whine at 75mph in 4th, whereas it seems like there is in 5th. So I run in 4th almost all the time, and get better gas mileage as well. You might try playing with gear selection. At the very least, you need to run it up to the rev limiter in each gear, so you know what the bike can do. Dave
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