Dave77459

Well, that area only comprises about 75% of the coolant system. Did you download and look at the pages I ripped from the service manual? It is in post 10. I think you can take off the tank and the side covers, and look with a bright light from both sides, and maybe see the leak. Make sure you look at both ends of the upper radiator hose. That hose would drip right into the center of the radiator, and also on the air box hose. Good luck!

Terrific, thanks. The stream eventually stopped and there have been no drips so far.

Another update. I went to the auto parts store with part in hand, and looked at their O-rings. None looked like mine. Theirs were round while mine was almost a rectangle in section. So I went off to the the dealer and bought one part number 93210-18417-00 for $4.50. They had to go to the remote stock to get it, which gave me a chance to check out the new bikes. The Triumph Tiger looks interesting, but they had a gorgeous FJR. If I can ever get Roxie to stop bleeding, I'll get something new. Anyways, it turns out the auto store probably did have an O-ring of proper size, but mine was so smooshed that it didn't look similar. Below are pics of the new and old, and some caliper readings I took of the new one (19mm x 2mm). I installed heat pipe 2 with the new O-ring, and that solved the leak there. I started her up and saw some on the pin and at the bottom of the radiator. Remembering that I spilled some when filling the radiator, I wiped it down and started her again. No visible fluid. However, there is steam. Question: does coolant steam off when it is exposed / not under pressure? Am I seeing the radiator "burning off" the spilled fluid? Dave

That's really interesting. Sounds like you are loosing a drop at a time. I don't know. My bike has 97,000 miles on it now, and the problem just started. Can't say that the radiator is defective. LOL Thanks guys for your thoughts.

Update of a sorts. I got the radiator off and examined it. There didn't look to be any leak from the top pin (photo). There didn't look to be any leak at all. I tested the fan, and it works. I followed the steps for removing the thermostat but couldn't figure out how to get it out. Its a 3-D puzzle, and I am usually very good at that, but I couldn't get it out. So reversed myself and put the bike back together. Now that I have a better idea of where to look, I wanted to run it and see where it leaks. But now I have a leak out of the heat pipe 2. (photo) Reading parts lists, I note that there should be an o-ring, but I didn't see one. It is part 93210-18417-00 in the parts fiche, and is priced variously from $1.62 to $9.50. Surely it is just an o-ring. Anyone know the size? I thought I saw it listed here, but can't find it in searches. Edit: Does fluid leaking from the heat pipe indicate the water pump is working?

Did you get this fixed? Mine seems to have the same problem. Took off the radiator and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the pin. Puzzling.

How do I get the top pin out of that red arrow'd bracket? It has a rubber bushing, but the mushroom top doesn't want to slip out?

Similar, I'd say. I'm attaching the manual's radiator disassembly instructions in case those could help you. Dave RSTD Radiator.pdf

Interesting! Does it look the same as my photo? I'm heading out in a moment to start taking the bike apart and investigate.

It requires the engine to be hot. The pressure tester is a good idea, though. That area is so hard to see in. I have seen green fluid higher up than the red arrow... condensation? Not sure how to get to the hoses, but I feel like coolant is dribbling down and collecting on the red arrow. I have felt the engine get really hot, which makes me wonder if the thermostat isn't working. Again, the part is hard to get to. Thanks for the ideas!

Thanks Brian. Since it doesn't look like there are many ideas on this, I guess I'll be tearing her down over Thanksgiving. Dave

Along with a mysterious oil drip, my 2006 RSTD now features a coolant leak. I doubt it is the radiator, but that's where the leak manifests. There looks like a in front trickle, and I've seen fluid on that stem thing on the top. The trickle seems to come from the stem thing. (See photos) I've looked for visible wetness up top, but can't see any from the sides. I do see "steam" coming from low down... could that condense up top? Before I tear into that front end mess, does this ring a bell with someone? Dave

To honor Gunboat, over Labor Day weekend I made a run from Mexico to Canada as a bun burner. 1685 miles in 32 hours. Others did it in 24 hours, but I wasn't gonna ride through hail. Congrats on your achievement. Of the 1% of motorcyclists who try an iron butt, 1% of them try again. You are elite, a mile eater. :-D Sent from my One S using Tapatalk 4

No expert on this stuff, but I have had electrical struggles for some time and that has given me some experience. I recently had to replace the regulator/rectifier at the tail end of a longish trip. I'm sure that what I am about to say will be corrected if it needs it. The battery doesn't push electricity. It supplies power to the engine and accessories, and then it is replenished by the charging system, of which the stator and RR are the main components. I think of the system as plumbing, where the accessories are the drain and stator/RR are the faucet. When the reservoir (battery) gets low, the faucet turns on to fill it. If the battery is topped up, the rectifier doesn't need to send everything through. The stator still puts out the same juice, but now the rectifier dissipates the unneeded energy. It does that in part by converting electricity to heat. If your high-power stator is sending a lot of energy, maybe the rectifier has to create a lot of heat. Another common problem is that after years of converting electricity to heat, the connections get burnt. That causes more resistance, and resistance is dissipated by more heat. The stator is still cranking out juice, but less is able to flow to the battery due to increased resistance. Where does it go? Heat. And that makes the problem worse. As RRs age, they convert more energy to heat. Mine needed to be replaced, because the power coming out of it was less than spec. It was getting very hot and the battery was getting drained. I do believe there are higher power RRs that supposedly are matched to the higher output stator. That could help. But more commonly, making sure the connection coming out of the rectifier is not burnt is more useful. Hope this helps. Dave

Two for me, Monty. Thanks. Dave