bryan52577

That's what I told him!!

They may not have stopped yet! PS Hey Snarley Bill, can I bring a buddy down to your May St.Charles meet? He rides a Valkery

Most intersection have those diamond shaped cuts in the road way. Those are the magnetic trips for the lights. I wear steel toed cowboy boots 90% of the time when I ride. I stop and if light does not change I put my toe over the diamond cut in the road and with in 15 seconds it trips the light. Has worked 99% of the time so far! Bryan

Skydoc, Wish I could take credit but I CAN NOT! I found this on another website and the authors name was not on it. So to whom ever the author was THANK YOU! Sorry, Bryan

Looked up and found this info> HONDA "GL 1500 SE, A, I (88-00)" (Gold Wing ) Front Rim Size: 3.00x18 Rear Rim Size: 3.50x16 Recommended Front Tire: K491 Elite II, size 130/70B18, 36 PSI Recommended Rear Tire: 491 Elite II, size 160/80B16, 40 PSIMetzeler Front Tire: ME880, size 130/70HB18 Metzeler Rear Tire: ME880, size 160/80HB16 OE Replacement Front Tire: K177, size 130/70-18, 33 PSI OE Replacement Rear Tire: K177 , size 160/80-16, 41 PSI HONDA GL 1500 C/CT/CF (97-01) (Valkyrie/Tourer/Interstate) Front Rim Size: 3.50x17 Rear Rim Size: 5.00x16 Dunlop Front Tire: D206, size 150/80R17, 36 PSI Dunlop Rear Tire: D206, size 180/70R16, 40 PSI Metzeler Front Tire: ME880, size 150/80VR17 Metzeler Rear Tire: ME880, size 180/70HR16

Well I never new that! Thanks! And the wife said it was impossible to teach me new stuff,,,HA! I say!

Sorry how is this> Here are the instructions and pictures I took of this. I have a 83 Venture standard and was having the false warnings, dim headlight, and my fuel gauge would go to empty right after filling then back full again. This caused the fuel warning to come on, then go off. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms1.jpg First remove the windshield trim. (4 screws). http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms2.jpg Remove the windshield. (4 screws). http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms3.jpg There are four screws holding the hood in place. I loosened the front ones. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms4.jpg Then I removed the rear ones. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms5.jpg Then removed the hood. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms6.jpg Then using a 10mm wrench and a socket, I removed the 4 nuts and washers holding the instrument cluster. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms7.jpg I then unhooked the large connector and 3 smaller wires that connect to the instrument cluster. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms8.jpg I then disconnected the speedometer cable. I did this last as I could pull up a little on the cluster and get more room to unscrew the cable. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms9.jpg I then removed the cluster from the bike. Here is the removed cluster with all the tools I used to remove it. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms10.jpg Now to remove the CMS from the instrument cluster. I first removed the 4 ourter screws, then the four inner screws. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms11.jpg Then you remove the mounting plate. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms12.jpg I had to work mine out of there one side at a time. Part of the problem was the wires that connect the two pieces together, and a piece of clear plastic which is to light up the LCD at night. Here is the rear view of the removed unit. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms13.jpg And the front view. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms14.jpg All you need to do to split this is, remove 4 screws on the back and disconnect the wire between the two units. I used a pencil type soldering iron heated very hot. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms15.jpg I soldered both rows where the connector is soldered to the board. The iron is pointing at one row. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms16.jpg And here it is pointing at the other row. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms17.jpg Once completed, just reverse the sequence to put it all back together. Some of the mounting bolts are buried and hard to get to, but if a little patience is used, you can get to them. There are three connectors that I didn't show, and I found those hard to put back together, but again a little patience and they should be fine. Now that I had it all back together, I had to try it out to make sure I had not created a error or problem. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms18.jpg It took me about 30 minutes to take the instrument cluster out fo the bike. Removing the CMS from the cluster and soldering took about an hour for me. Putting the cluster back together took about 15 minutes, and returning the cluster to the bike and finishing up took about another 20 minutes. Remember I was taking pictures and taking great care.

Sorry how is this> Here are the instructions and pictures I took of this. I have a 83 Venture standard and was having the false warnings, dim headlight, and my fuel gauge would go to empty right after filling then back full again. This caused the fuel warning to come on, then go off. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms1.jpg First remove the windshield trim. (4 screws). http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms2.jpg Remove the windshield. (4 screws). http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms3.jpg There are four screws holding the hood in place. I loosened the front ones. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms4.jpg Then I removed the rear ones. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms5.jpg Then removed the hood. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms6.jpg Then using a 10mm wrench and a socket, I removed the 4 nuts and washers holding the instrument cluster. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms7.jpg I then unhooked the large connector and 3 smaller wires that connect to the instrument cluster. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms8.jpg I then disconnected the speedometer cable. I did this last as I could pull up a little on the cluster and get more room to unscrew the cable. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms9.jpg I then removed the cluster from the bike. Here is the removed cluster with all the tools I used to remove it. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms10.jpg Now to remove the CMS from the instrument cluster. I first removed the 4 ourter screws, then the four inner screws. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms11.jpg Then you remove the mounting plate. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms12.jpg I had to work mine out of there one side at a time. Part of the problem was the wires that connect the two pieces together, and a piece of clear plastic which is to light up the LCD at night. Here is the rear view of the removed unit. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms13.jpg And the front view. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms14.jpg All you need to do to split this is, remove 4 screws on the back and disconnect the wire between the two units. I used a pencil type soldering iron heated very hot. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms15.jpg I soldered both rows where the connector is soldered to the board. The iron is pointing at one row. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms16.jpg And here it is pointing at the other row. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms17.jpg Once completed, just reverse the sequence to put it all back together. Some of the mounting bolts are buried and hard to get to, but if a little patience is used, you can get to them. There are three connectors that I didn't show, and I found those hard to put back together, but again a little patience and they should be fine. Now that I had it all back together, I had to try it out to make sure I had not created a error or problem. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cms18.jpg It took me about 30 minutes to take the instrument cluster out fo the bike. Removing the CMS from the cluster and soldering took about an hour for me. Putting the cluster back together took about 15 minutes, and returning the cluster to the bike and finishing up took about another 20 minutes. Remember I was taking pictures and taking great care.

The 130 number is the width of the tire, that is the same on both so the rim would fit either? The 70 and the 90 are the side wall size. A 70 where a 90 would go would give more room between the tire & the fender. A 90 where a 70 is would probably rub your fender. If I am reading it correctly? Bryan

Not sure this will help but here is what all the number mean. 70 should mean 70% of width is how high the sidewall is. So 90 would mean 90% of the width is how high the sidewall is. ( Sidewall Aspect Ratio Typically following the three digits identifying the tire's Section Width in millimeters is a two-digit number that identifies the tire's profile or aspect ratio. P225/50R16 91S The 50 indicates that this tire size's sidewall height (from rim to tread) is 50% of its section width. The measurement is the tire's section height, and also referred to as the tire's series, profile or aspect ratio. The higher the number, the taller the sidewall; the lower the number, the lower the sidewall. We know that this tire size's section width is 225mm and that its section height is 50% of 225mm. By converting the 225mm to inches (225 / 25.4 = 8.86") and multiplying it by 50% (.50) we confirm that this tire size results in a tire section height of 4.43". If this tire were a P225/70R16 size, our calculation would confirm that the size would result in a section height of 6.20", approximately a 1.8-inch taller sidewall.) Hope that is what you wanted to know? Bryan

Not sure if this will help or not. Here is one and here is another. This all sounds like what you are doing? Bryan

OH come on Squeeze, we are dreaming here! Have a hart, now I'll go to bed tonight and have nightmares. Just kidding, I know the true hurts me.

I think you'll have better luck with the no payment / no interest part than the CD player in the dash. They are not going to give up on the 8-track.....Ops I mean cassette deck.

I would have loved to see the cashiers face when the "dumb crook" pulled the gun right in front of the cop! LOL That would have to make the "Americas Funniest Home Video's"!!:rotfl::rotfl:

Thanks Gibvel, I figured there was a reason not to. But when I pulled my trailer last year I did notice I lost about 10lbs in a week long trip. As for a delivery system I have a regulator set-up I have with me "most of the time, if trailer is along" that I use so I can fill front or rear shocks from any air source and just dial in what pressure I need. Works great and I test it to make sure it is accurate to both my tire gauges. I use it on bike and trailer tires too so I don't have to keep checking. But I think I will tie the front two shocks together so they have the same air all the time and/or leak down together if they do leak. (Checked tonight and after sitting for a couple of months now, front is same as I left it last fall and the back is down 5 psi. And no the garage is not heated but she fired right up! I'm so happy!) Bryan

Has anyone ever put Nitrogen in their shocks? Front or rear once you find the ideal pressure for the way you ride. Would it be feasible to do that or not? I see and read about people installing it in their tires and just wondered if in the shocks would even make it worth while? I found where "I" like the shocks at and found that I need to keep checking them for pressure. My thought was with the nitrogen I may not need to check but once a year? (Can you say , LAZY)?

Hey Don, You ain't looking to good in your picture. May be time to take a DAY OFF! Man I need friends like that so I could have a reason to take off?

I got mine from Redneck Trailer Supplies. They have all sorts of goodies from trim to rims to body parts. Look under "tire accessories". Hope this helps, Bryan

You know what the old saying is. "Once you go 2nd gen you never go back!" (I think that's how it goes??)

Thanks DON , I work out of state every other week and sometimes can not get on so this will help me! Bryan

Rustic roads is a great site. I have used it for the past couple of years. Some times you have to read the "paved / gravel" close. I got about half way through a 20+ mile ride ones and then it went to gravel. Not bad but it was fresh gravel so I opted out of the rest of that one. All in all it sure is nice to get "Off The Beaten Path". And you should check that book out sometime, it has some really great places too.

Hi Steve, Try this site Hope that helps. Bryan

Something to think about? Read the "Notice To Consumer" BOLD at the bottom. This is from the PIAA Corporation, USA This is just for people who would never do anything illegal. As for me well.... Ampere (A or Amp) The unit of measure for electrical current. Basic formula for finding Amp draw (Amps = watts ÷ volts) Candela A unit of measurement for the luminous intensity of a lamp at a specific spot in the beam. Dichroic A glass reflector and bulb assembly that allows heat to dissipate through the reflector and away from the bulb thus increasing bulb life. Dual Filament Bulb A bulb having two filaments encased in one glass tube. In the case of halogen headlight bulbs with dual filaments, one filament for the low beam and one filament for the high beam. The most common dual filament halogen headlight bulbs are H4, HB2, 9007, and 9004. Dual Lamp System A PIAA innovation that places two types of auxiliary light systems into one housing, usually a driving light and a fog light. High Intensity Discharge A light source in which light is produced by a stabilized arc that burns at a much higher color temperature which creates a whiter light output than a standard halogen bulb. This arc is generated with an igniting system and ballast. Kelvin Color temperature is a unit of measure for the color of light – it is not necessarily related to the heat of the light source. A higher color temperature represents a color closer to actual sunlight. Lens Fluting A process in lamp design that molds the lens to control the beam pattern by deflecting the light to the desired point in the beam. Lens fluting usually looks like vertical cuts in the lens. Lumens A unit of measurement for the amount of light that a bulb puts out. Example: common light bulbs emit approximately 170 candela per 10 watts of electricity. Multi Surface Reflector MSR, A reflector designed to control the beam pattern with a computer designed surface to project the light precisely to the desired point in the beam without the use of fluting. NHTSA, D.O.T. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Department of Transportation. Sets the laws and guidelines for the preservation of safety on public highways. Projector Lens An ellipse shaped lens that concentrates a beam of light coming from a set back bulb and reflector. The beam is usually controlled with a shield to give the beam a very sharp cut off point. This makes a great fog light or headlight low beam. S.A.E. Society of Automotive Engineers. Publishes the recommended practices, design specifications and testing procedures for all automotive systems. Xenon The gas used in H.I.D. systems that produce the extreme white color. Xenon gas is also used in some halogen bulbs to produce a whiter light and to keep deposits off the glass tube. XTRA A PIAA term used to designate high efficiency bulbs that are designed to produce greater light output than its rated power consumption. (Example 55watts = 85watts of light output) http://www.piaa.com/images/spacer.gifNOTICE TO CONSUMER http://www.piaa.com/images/fade-right.gif PIAA lamps are intended for use solely as auxiliary lighting. PIAA lamps are not intended to be used for headlight purposes, nor are they certified for headlight usage. Auxiliary lighting laws vary from state to state. PIAA makes no representation or warranty, either expressed or implied, as to the legality of its products for street use on any vehicle or in any location. PIAA lamps are designed to improve visibility during night time motoring and inclement weather conditions. However, irresponsible use of any auxiliary light can be dangerous and illegal. http://www.piaa.com/images/rule.gif PIAA CORPORATION USA CORPORATION | CUSTOMER SERVICE | STAY INFORMED | WHAT'S NEW | DEALER SEARCH | FAQ'S | GLOSSARY | WHY BUY PIAA | CARE & MAINTENANCE | PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT | PIAA WARRANTY PRODUCTS LAMPS | BULBS | HIGH INTENSITY LEDS | WIPER BLADES | WHEELS | POWERSPORTS | RACING PRODUCTS Copyright © 2003 PIAA Corporation, USA. All Rights Reserved. PIAA Corporation, USA, 15370 SW Millikan Way, Beaverton, OR 97006 Telephone: 503.643.7422 - Fax: 503.643.9144 piaa.com designed and maintained by soupbone, Inc. [www.soupbone.com]

Name of Restaurant Graham Milk & Ice Cream Co Street Address 627 W 2nd St City Ottumwa State or Province IA Website (Optional) - Quality of Food Fantastic Quality of Service Great Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) ICE-CREAM! Alcohol Served? No Additional Comments I know not many here like ICE-CREAM. But for those of us that do, Grahams is a must stop! Best tasting ice-cream around! A GREAT stop any time in the summer! Street parking with very small parking lot.