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timgray

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Everything posted by timgray

  1. timgray
    Has anyone played with their MAP to see if they can get any gains in Gas mileage? I have started to mess with it slightly, but the dang engine is so Noisy in "knocks" when running right I cant get a knock sensor to detect anything and you cant hear any knock until it's knocking hard enough to be above the engine noises. I was thinking of giving it a little bit more advance in the Cruise zone of 4000 rpm-4500 rpm. That way a highway run will have a bit more economy but it would knock if you did not downshift to accelerate.
  2. timgray
    Note on the Android phones, they will be very outdated ones that will never get any software upgrades. and the version of Android on them is useless with a bluetooth helmet, if that matters to you. BUT, it is a lot cheaper. and it uses the AT&T cellular network.
  3. timgray
    http://cascadedesigns.com/msr/stoves/stove-accessories/msr-fuel-bottles/product Is what I use for my reserve on the 83. IT's small and sealed so it is far safer to carry in the panniers than a regular gas can.
  4. timgray
    If you are running a stock R&R, this is the problem. The stock R&R runs the stator at full output all the time. the Upgraded version does not. Stock my wires to the coils were always too hot to touch comfortably, now they are as cool as everything else. The Stock R&R from the 1980's is really a very bad design that helps destroy Stators.
  5. timgray
    Mine get's up to the red only when going slow or standing still. at highway speeds I have it at least 1/4 of an inch down from the red. the only time I have the fan kick in is when I am standing still or under 5 mph.
  6. timgray
    All I used was a 8" lone piece of 3/4" wide flat aluminum. drilled a hole to mount the R&R, wires pointed at the bend. drilled a hole for the bolt in the frame that holds the stiffener on. Slide it in bolted it on. IT will get almost no water there unless I ride into a 1 foot deep puddle at high speed, and has some decent air flow. I think I have a more detailed photo at home, I'll post it later. took 2 minutes to drill the aluminum and I bent it over the edge of the garbage can with my hands.
  7. timgray
    I made a bracket and put it right behind the engine above the plastic ducting that sits on the engine. It's hanging on a bar of aluminum that I bent and bolted on top of the stiffening bar that goes along the left hand side. that way all wires are where they are stock and I have good air flow over the regulator. You can see the aluminum bracket in this photo, the regulator is right behind it. I was going to mount it in the stock location, but short of getting a drill out and drilling out all the screws mounting the stock regulator, that was not going to happen. so I cut off the wires to the stock one and abandoned it in place.
  8. timgray
    I used no gasket sealant and I have no leaks. I just followed standard cover proceedure and went around putting a 1/2 turn on each bolt in a criss cross pattern until tight, then torqued each in a criss cross pattern. Torque on the inside screws was as tight as I can turn them without stripping. Factory did not use locktite, so I did not use locktite. My new stator came with a wire feed through so I cleaned all surfaces and used black RTV around it and set it in place and reassembled. I did wipe a little bit of black RTV on both rubber wire feed through where it mates with the case gasket. Hardest part is cleaning that rock of a gasket off the cover without gouging the aluminum. I used gasket remover foam and plastic razor blades. a good auto body shot can get them for you. Gasket surfaces 100% clean means the gasket alone will seal up for you.
  9. timgray
    "because a mechanic told me replacing the stator would require pulling the engine and a huge labor bill" This means the guy quoting you has a boat he is making payments on and is hoping you will agree to make a payment or two for him, and he knows absolutely nothing at all about the bike. On a older goldwing it's a remove the engine affair. Anyone that says a stator replacement is a "huge labor bill" needs to be ran away from. A competent shop can do a stator replacement in less than 3 hours of labor. If I can do it on the floor of my garage in 6 without the right tools and have never done it before in 90 degree heat stopping several times to go back into air conditioning and drinking beer, they can do it in less than 3 on a lift with all the right tools.
  10. timgray
    That's normal. On a 90+ degree day the bike will be near red unless you are going highway speeds. I removed my louvers completely from both sides after it melted a few of them. It's why the Louvers are not common on any bikes you see used, most people melt theirs and remove them.
  11. timgray
    Not bad news, Just a $300 repair + a day to disassemble and install the new. It's not hard except for the screws that hold the stator to the cover, yamaha had godzilla install those. And dont do OEM parts. Upgrade to a Hot Shot stator from Ricks and a modern R&R. The stock ones are junk compared to the new ones. One of the guys here is selling a whole kit to do everything, That is the way to go. Contact Skydoc_17 he might still have a kit or two left.
  12. timgray
    When was the last time you cleaned out the master and flushed a bottle full of fluid through the system to clean it all out. clutch and brake fluid needs to be changed every 3 or so years.
  13. timgray
    There is one that works far better... http://www.plastex.net/ If you own a motorcycle, a large kit of this stuff is required. It repairs cracks well, I use thin sheets of abs to back the crack from the local hobby shop to make it stronger. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSM11 is what I use, they have even thinner stuff as well. I figure my 83 will gain about 50 pounds in ABS repairs by the time I get rid of it, every month I find a new crack as the Fairing and parts are all drying out and getting brittle. Plastex is the only way to repair a crack and not destroying the paint on it.
  14. timgray
    Be kind of picky. If both bikes were stored inside, it's a good deal. if they are back yard forgotten parts bikes, even $500.00 may be too much.
  15. timgray
    I would be interested, but if it's anything like my tank cover rack that I had made, It's gonna be over $140.00 for a set. Chrome is expensive as all get out nowdays.
  16. timgray
    I just did my 83 and I did not have to remove the other cover. Everyone kept saying that you had to but I tried anyways and mine came right off without having to remove the middle gear cover. Now the wires route under there behind the aluminum flange and it is a LOT EASIER to get to the wires and re route with the middle gear cover off, but it can be done without removal. IT is a major bear with the wire feed through under there. It is a lot easier if you remove the middle gear cover, I removed mine anyways to make it less of a fight. (you also need a new copper washer for the bottom bolt on the middle gear cover) To prevent leaks you need to clean the gasket surfaces very well. a razerblade will scratch aluminum so be very careful. I used some plastic razerblades used for the automotive cleaning and paint industry to do mine. I then used black RTV gasket to seal the plug and let it sit undisturbed for a couple of hours to harden, then I put the new gasket on the engine side, it is held there with the two locator pins. I added a thin coating of black RTV over the two rubber wire feed throughs and then mated the cover to the engine. I then did a radial slow tighten. Tighten down to finger tight and then go top, bottom, top, bottom, top bottom and around until I finally got to the proper torque for the bolts. After that I let it sit for a day to let the RTV over the rubber set up and then filled the bike with oil and started it up. No leaks at all.
  17. timgray
    I also am very interested in a switch plate.
  18. timgray
    Well it's several days later and no leaks, It looks like it did the day I cleaned everything up and out. Flushed with a full quart of new Synthetic fluid until it came out clear, I'm going to change out the fluid and flush again in a couple of weeks in case it worked up some more crud from inside the line. Interesting thing about the amsoil stuff. The amsoil does not seem to attack ABS plastic, I have a chunk of ABS for repairs and it's not dissolving after 3 days. This might be a very good reason to use it in bikes.
  19. timgray
    No matter they type of regulator it is, I know from observable differences that it is significantly better than the R&R that comes on a 1st gen. Stock regulator battery is draining at idle, draining fast at idle and cooling fan on.. The wires to the stator on a stock regulator will get hot and stay hot, look at the burned connectors or the burned fingers from grabbing the wires after a long run with everything on. Upgrading the regulator and stator, and now I charge at idle and charge at idle with the fan on. Stator wires do not get too hot to touch like before, even with all lights on and heated grips on they only get a little warmer after 20 minutes. The bike runs better, starts better, headlight is brighter, etc... If you own a 1st gen, get that junk stock R&R out of there and upgrade to this regulator, it is the best thing you can do for your bike. I get mine off of ebay, get familiar with how it looks and search ebay for "motorcycle regulator" I got a used one for $25.00 shipped.
  20. timgray
    when you go GPS shopping bring the brightest flashlight with you. IF you can at the store read the screen with the flashlight aimed at the screen, it will work on the bike in the daytime. I have yet to find any GPS under $500.00 that has a screen that is readable in sunlight on a Bike.
  21. timgray
    RED for rear, because if you are stopping, you can hit the button also if you see that they are still not stopping. I would add a toggle to link them to the brake as well if you wanted to have the "blind cager heat lamp" brake light mode.
  22. timgray
    Even cheaper is to find an old computer hard drive from a disposed of PC or old one you have sitting in the basement or a closet from 1990's. Take screwdrivers and hammers to the hard drive and remove the Two super magnets from it. Spray Paint them to keep them from rusting and stick to the frame. $20.00 minutes of work and a little black paint. http://www.instructables.com/id/Pulling-apart-a-desktop-hard-drive-to-get-rare-ear/ P.S.: Watch your fingers, these things are so strong they will hurt you. Think hammer on a finger kind of hurt.
  23. timgray
    There is not enough detail in those photos to see if it's a replacement or just what I am doing with a spacer to keep the little metal piece. I wanted the largest sealing surface, so I opted out of putting in the metal with a slot. I emailed him to see if he will share photos of the actual pieces in the "kit". if it's a real press in like the stock one I'll buy a set of used masters and start over.
  24. timgray
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf3.aspx A buddy of mine is an AMSOIL dealer so I get it cheaper than retail. the stuff works great and will not adsorb water like regular brake fluid.
  25. timgray
    Very nice, also they are another source for the Diaphragms! At least their type. Which is a good thing to locate multiple sources for parts.
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