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timgray

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Everything posted by timgray

  1. timgray
    Most yamaha's with the larger engines make that whine. A Vmax I was riding with made the same whine as my bike. I though it was a trademark Yamaha sound.
  2. timgray
    Nope, I dont have floorboards. I have pegs that look like they have 35,000 miles on them, the rubbber is all tore up, they are scraped on the ends wher the PO was driving it like a racing crotch rocket, etc... I want to replace them with nicer pegs if possible. The Hardley guys have 10,000 choices (flames, skulls, flaming skulls, skulls with flames on them, etc...) and there has to be a set of pegs that will replace the existing pegs. http://www.kuryakyn.com/category.asp?bn=metric&cn=Footpegs&sn=Footpegs%20and%20Boards&page=2 for example. they have adapters that go inside their pegs and fit a specific bike. The sales reps either dont understand what a ruler is or they refuse to measure any of their peg adapters and compare sizes. So I was wondering if anyone has found replacement like those that will go right on the bike and fit right.
  3. timgray
    Are the footpeg mounts for the current venture the same? anyone have one off that they can measure the width and length of the square hunk of metal that the mounting ping goes through?
  4. timgray
    I was willing to spend the big $$$ on kyrukyan (or how ever they spell their name) footpegs and adapters until I asked their tech support about peg adapters. the response from them was " we dont carry peg adapters for your bike." they were unwilling to give me dimensions of the adapters they carry to see what would work just the "NO they will not work on your bike, it's too old." Now I'm not interested in buying something from a company staffed by lazy or dumb people. so who has found an aftermarket footpeg that works to replace the worn out ones? it's a simple square male with a pin through it. They cant be some wierd size.
  5. timgray
    Ive heard that Mobil1 15W50 is perfectly fine for motorcycle use with wet clutch. is this right? does anyone here use it? I'd like to switch to a synthetic for less than the overpriced yamalube.
  6. timgray
    If I get on the throttle at anything other than a light accceleration or cruise then 2'nd gear let's go as if someone kicked the shifter or pulled in the clutch really fast. It does not slip like a car where you all of a sudden get high rpm's but an instant slip-grab slip-grab that jerks the bike. I cant get it to do that in any other gear. although I have not tried to really nail it in 3rd yet. If I simply let up on the throttle, I'm still in 2nd. I usually roll my eyes and click up to third to get around it.
  7. timgray
    I was wondering if it's ok to use a synthetic automotive oil in the rear end gearbox? prepping for winter storage, I want to get as much service done now as possible because I know I wont have the willpower to do it in the spring when it get's warm enough to ride. Can I use a syncromesh synthetic or a typical 90W synthetic gearbox oil back there?
  8. timgray
    My 83 venture seems to have the famed slipping in 2nd gear. I knew this when I bought it, but it was a great price and worth the aggrivation for getting it for very little cash. I heard that when the 2nd gear was fixed the dealers made a mark on the case near the VIn number. When I had the bike apart yesterday to sync the carbs I decided to clean up the engine and tranny case and noticed what looks like someoen took a punch and make a large DOT right next to the Vin number on the textured part that holds the number. Is it possible the bike had the fix done? I am getting slipping if I accelerate hard in 2nd. but I can accelerate like a madman in 1st and 3rd and not feel any slipping. Reason I ask, I was reading the threads about the clutch and how the springs or 20 year old discs can cause slipping, and that the bike will slip in 2nd.
  9. timgray
    Yup Carb #2 was off the scale at idle I had 15 inches of water vac at idle and it was 6 inches of vac higher than all other carbs at 2500-3000 rpm. So I cranked up the rpm and then adjusted #1 to match. The Idle screw was backed all the way out and #1 adjust screw was bottomed out against the spring when I started. The Previous owner started twisting screws for fun and stopped when he had it all messed up. #3 and #4 were very close to each other but were far off from #2 as well.
  10. timgray
    A buddy of mine this weekend made me sync my carbs with his hotrod single carb vac gauge. I'll tell you guys, this is far easier than you guys make it out to be, even with a single gauge. I hooked up the gauge to carb#2, it was bouncing all over, so he handed me a set of vice grips and said, "clip this to the hose. pinch it off." I did and then adjusted the screw on the vice grips until I had a little bounce in the needle. I then used the cruise to set the rpm to 2500 and took a reading. removed the hose, plugged carb2, unpluggged carb 1 and set it to be close to what 2 read. swapped back and forth until they were the same as far as I could tell. did the same for the rest. After getting #4 done I went back and set the idle as the previous owner had it set to not idle. then readjusted (very little) the 3 carbs to #2 once again. That was incredibly easy and you do not need the 4 gauge setup or even a 2 gauge setup. the single $19.99 gauge from the local auto store works great. It's harder to get all 3 side plastic pieces off than it is to tune these carbs up.
  11. timgray
    I have a cosmetically well maintained Venture. but after looking into it the guy had no idea as to what he was doing. The carbs are so out of whack it's not funny. and I believe the boost sensor is dead as well. My 83 is getting 33-35 mpg if I keep my right wrist out of the throttle. This is a mix of highway and city driving.. As soon as I can figure out how to get my bike 250 miles to squidley (and not working on a saturday and sunday) to sync up the carbs and get that correct I'll start measuring the gas mileage again.
  12. timgray
    Because our bikes have wierd footpeg mounts. has anyone found any aftermarket footpegs that can be disassembled and mounted in our existing footpeg mounts? Mine are getting ragged looking and I'd love some of those shiny chrome and O-ring looking ones that all the hardley rides get to dress their bikes with.
  13. timgray
    will the ones listed for the venture royale work on a plain ol' venture?
  14. timgray
    Anyone know what the numbers are for sealed bearings for the front wheel? I dont want to buy new unsealed ones from the local stealer at $40.00 each and I hip I can find some at NAPA that will work. UPDATE: Arrgh I asked this here before, I though it was on that "other" site... anyways, to make this useful for others..... 303SS and 6303S http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,118,303SS -- for the part at rock auto. I just got 2 of them for the price that NAPA wants for 1.
  15. timgray
    Actually at $12.95 a month $299.00 would pay for it's self in less than 3 years. Problem is most of the sirius and XM radios die within that time and then they sock you for another $50.00 to transfer that lifetime to another radio and you can only do that a few times before they tell you no. your lifetime subscription is up. I'm on my 5th sirius radio and the one in the wifes car just dies as well. which stinks because the news ones have a useless FM transmitter in them while her's would transmit to cars 200 feet away. I have one for my truck and bike that looks like a radar detector. fits nice on the dash with a bit of velcro and swaps between the two without effort. Just gotta remember to remove it when I park the bike so it does not walk away.
  16. timgray
    anyone have a photo of their seat cover? the one on their site is incredibly wrong and more for a 1970's dirtbike.
  17. timgray
    I would like to be put on the list of viewing it. Thanks!
  18. timgray
    Squidley thanks for the offer! Out of town this weekend with work but I'll call you and see if I can make it over one of these weekends. I have never taken the bike on a 200+ mile ride so I'm kind of leery of going that far without going through everything beforehand.. maybe I can find a friend that will ride with me on over. And for everyone offering the loan of a carbsync.. Thanks you very much. You guys are a great example of how bikers stick together. If I cant get over to Squidleys place to get it synched I'll be taking up an offer of the loan until I can get my own tool. you guys rock!
  19. timgray
    Ok I just built a home gauge. used the tubing and followed all directions. heated up the bike, hooked it up to carb 1 and 2 restarted the bike and watched as all the ATF in the tube get sucked into Carb #2 faster than I can kill the engine. it sucked it in incredibly fast. Home made carbsync gauge is all done. The screw for adjusting #1 is bottomed out, if I loosen it the bike stops idling, I have to return it to the bottomed out position for the bike to run.. I took apart the air box and looked down into the carbs. at idle the pistons do not dance. they only dance when I reve the engine. So any ideas? I'm guessing I need to buy the real gauge from England (I'm guessing I cant suck the little metal rods int othe carbs.) because my carbs are so far out of sync it's not funny.
  20. timgray
    last I knew garmin map upgrades were locked to the serial number of the gps. you could not take the map a buddy bought, copy it and put it in yours because the serial numbers did not match.
  21. timgray
    Gas stations all over are price gouging to take advantage of everyone. It's disgusting that they do this. The gas in the ground tanks at the local station does not magically get more expensive when things happen, they just decide to raise the prices to steal more profits from our wallets when this stuff happens.
  22. timgray
    Does anyone have any clear photos of wher you hook up the tubes for the Carb sync? also one thing is unclear to me. You sync 1 to 2, then 4 to 3, but how do I know that 3 is synched to 2? what if #3 is the one that is way out of balance? and how do you sync left to right? that is very unclear from everything I have read. Everything else seems understandable. I made a clear tube U a couple of feet long, put some ATF in it to get about a foot of fluid in there and then take the 5-6 feet of tube and connect to carb 1 and 2 and make the two sides level with each other. Do I then disconnect from 1 and 2 and then connect to 3 and 4 and do the same? Or do I keep it on 2 which is the refrence and move to 3 and banace 3 to 2 and then 4 to 2? thanks all for the help, I just need this last bit cleared up.
  23. timgray
    Found it, cleaned the bullet connector and tightened it. could not find where the ground on that is without removing the fairing so I twisted a copper wire around the fan switch sensor right next to the sensor and connected the other end to the frame under the horn mount. sensor is still acting up so It's gotta be bad. Thanks everyone for the help! I was able to troubleshoot this fast because of you guys!
  24. timgray
    I like the runny stuff, that way I can use some fiberglass mat embedded in it to make that spot stronger than it was before it broke. Bummer that they are discontinuing it, it's a great product.
  25. timgray
    I am going to make sure I coat the threads with anti-sieze when I get mine open. It seems that it's very common for the cap to weld it's self to the potmetal so that you cant get it off without destroying the thing.
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