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timgray

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  1. timgray

    M&E on MI

    timgray replied to calperin's topic in Watering Hole

    I wont be able to make it, a 3 hour ride + 2hour meetandeat + 3 hour ride back is not in the time budget this next month. Hopefully the next one!
  2. timgray
    yes that's stock, you need to send it to me for free You have what looks like aftermarket thicker brace. You will not need a Super Condor Ultimate Brace. (The SCUB!)
  3. timgray
    Cheater trick first. turn off gas, remove gas line and stick it in a can of seafoam. start and run bike until can is just empty and running bad. let it sit that way with the carbs full of 100% seafoam for 2 days or more. this will dissolve all the gunk in there. WE followed it up with an identical treatment of 100% techron and let it sit for 1 day. bike runs like new and when we finally took the bike apart for a different reason this winter I took off the carbs and opened up the bowls.. They were clean as new. That solved it for a old bike a friend had that were varnished up bad.
  4. timgray
    It cold be so far out of sync from someone trying to sync it with bad diaphrams that when you put in the new ones it's wonky. choke off can you rev it up to 2000 rpm or higher? if you can, sync at that speed and then let it down and see if it still runs. Mine was so far out that I actually was running on 3 cyl until I got the throttle nearly 1/4 the way open. You would be suprised at the number of bike mechanics that know nothing about carbs at all and will keep adjusting to compensate for ripped diaphrams.
  5. timgray
    that strange sucking noise is pumping air. if your under seat reservoir is full, then that can mean it's plugged at the bottom and no fluid is getting to the master cyl for brakes. You will need to take it off along with it 's hose and completely and CAREFULLY clean it up. at the same time check the Master for cleanliness. If you bleed the brakes a lot do you have to refill the reservoir a lot? It is incredibly easy to empty the reservoir when bleeding the brakes due to it only holding a tiny bit. I suggest you also getting a new bottle of the DOT3/4 synthetic and completely change the fluid until it runs clear at all points when you are done, then bleed the brakes at all points again in 2 days. Checking the calipers for seizing is simple. remove them, remove the pads, then try to push the cylinders back into the caliper. They should be stiff but move in nicely. DO NOT DO THIS without completely cleaning the calipers with brake cleaner and a toothbrush to remove any and all gunk and dirt from the pistons and the area around them. Pushing in a dirty piston will ruin the seal. Note: you CANT push them in by hand. I use a very large cresent wrench and slow and steady pressure, you are pushing that fluid back to the master that is behind the piston through a teeny hole. If your pads are getting thin, you might as well replace them at this point as you just did 3/4 of a brake job.
  6. timgray
    If you can live riding without the "tough biker look" look for the cordoua armored jackets and items that have vents and mesh. you look more like a sportbike rider, but will stay cooler and have protection when you hit the pavement at 85mph. leatherup.com has some good ones, if you are pear shaped, you will have some trouble finding them that fit well. I had to go to a 6X on the one I bought instead of my usual 1X. I bought this one.... http://leatherup.com/p/Mens-Motorcycle-Jackets/Mens-Armored-Black-and-Grey-Cordura-With-Leather-Trim-Jackets/40027.html It's comfortable without the liner in 80+ degrees sitting on pavement in a traffic jam.
  7. timgray
    Excellent! that helps a lot for the documentation aspect Thanks a TON!
  8. timgray
    The place you took your bike to knows nothing about stereo's in bikes. I know this simply by what they suggested to you to put in the bike. The pop out motorized screen will die in very short order on a motorcycle from vibration and shocks they dont get in cars or trucks, plus they are not even slightly water resistant. Plus if you want to see the screen you will have to stop and shade it with your hand. NONE of the pop out motorized screen car stereos are viewable in direct sunlight. I would search for the aftermarket solutions that others have posted about the audio. As for the being to able to hit scan at any time on the handlebars for XM... nothing exists. no car stereo will give you that either as you will either need to dig a remote out of your pocket, or reach foreward and poke at the screen. What you CAN do is have an electronics engineer modify a XM radio IR remote to reroute the scan remote button push to a handlebar button and then route the IR from the remote to the face of the XM radio reciever. If your garmin has a remote, you can have it modified. If it does not have a remote you will have to get a XM reciever that does. There are no car stereos that exist that has a wire that can be hooked up to a button on the handlebars.
  9. timgray
    I started mapping out some wires and have quite a few of them figured out already. The CB radio input (mystery 3rd connector next to the FM radio pug and headset plugs. and verified the findings with other sites and information you guys have pointed out to me. I really like verified information On to the bog connectors, also anyone have a list of observed failures? does the FM radio quit and the intercom stay working? Intercom quit but you can listen to FM from the speakers? etc... The one amp I have loses audio when it heats up. also does anyone have a dead CB unit? there is 1 wire I can not verify what it is used for and I think it's for the CB to signal to the Amplifier to mute the music, but I am not sure. I need to look at the circuitry of a CB to find out for sure. a completely dead one is fine.
  10. timgray
    very cool! and certainly a lot cheaper than the $180.00 ones that kyrukayn makes. I think they think their stuff is made from gold and platinum.
  11. timgray
    $80.00 for a set of diaphragms, New rotors are around $250-300 on the internet, Dealers up the price by another 50% so avoid them. good used ones can be had, search ebay and the classifieds here. I strongly suggest you clean and sync the carbs and not let a dealer touch the bike. I have yet to find a dealer that actually knows how to sync carbs. and dealer "carb cleaning" is typically running a lot of seafoam or other carb cleaner through it while spraying carb cleaner down the throats. I had a buddy lose $350.00 to a dealer that "complete carb cleaned" his XS750. it still ran poorly and 1 hour later and 2 spray cans of carb cleaner we took apart the carbs and found a ton of garbage in them. When confronted, the dealer said it was his gas tank reclogged the carbs. Tank is 100% clean and new, dealer lied. Brakes, do a complete brake fluid flush and bleed. If you have never done this, speedbleaders are great, you also need to crack the line and bleeed at the top of the tripletree. You can flush and bleed the brakes in less than 1 hour. Re-bleed the brakes the day or two after, you will get air at the top of the triple tree again. You might be lucky and have a competent and honest dealer or bike shop.
  12. timgray
    UPDATE: big plug with big (16-14 gauge) wires coming out of the amp. Yellow - Handlebar mute line Orange - Handlebar Tune button Blue - Unswitched 12V power (live all the time for memory) Red - Switched 12V power to turn on the radio and gear when ignition is on. Black+blackYellow right speaker lead Black+black-white left speaker lead I have it powered up on the bench, now to start mapping out wires in the big connectors and the others. Clay sent me his dead radio parts so I have something to start working on. I still am looking for anything I can get my hands on, more parts test and dissect the better.
  13. timgray
    Yes and no. The CB+intercom will still work, but the aftermarket will only be out the dash speakers and not the headsets. I think I can figure out how to separate the parts and make it work for modifications like that. I need to get one operational and start poking around.
  14. timgray
    Anyone have any details on doing this to a 83-85? I am getting ready to replace my diaphragms in a few days and hope to do this at the same time.
  15. timgray
    Recieved my radio parts. The main connector for power and speakers, I can spot the speakers, and I assume red is the 12V switched. Yellow should be 12V constant for memory. What is the orange and Blue for? Ground is through the mounting right? I need to start with powering up the unit. Also I though I saw here somewhere that someone replaced the Cassette with a ipod input, anyone know of the thread that talks about it? If I can get it powered up I can start with mapping wires. The connectors they used for the radio are horrible. I can see many problems caused simply because of bad connections on those massive blue things.
  16. timgray
    I would rather ask here for parts than ebay. I would rather give my biker brothers here the money than someone who I dont know. As for finding something on ebay that others may like, that would be a very nice thing to do as some people are not ebay-savvy.
  17. timgray
    reminds me of when my dad let me fire his shotgun for the first time. an old double barrel 10 gauge. I did not listen and I squeezed the triggers hard... yup triggers. I unleashed both barrels at once. a 98 pound 16 year old goes flying when a pair of 10's goes off at once. He was laughing so hard he had to sit down.
  18. timgray
    It is certianly possible but you need the right tools. 1 - Left handed Adjustable Metric Wrench. SAE will not work. 2 - 1 quart of Blinker Fluid, Synthetic 40W is the best to use. 5W if you like them fast. 3 - If you're Airforce, you need to have at least 40-50 feet of Flightline, otherwise you need sightline. 4 - 12 ounce can of Elbow grease. I prefer Royal purple brand. You need some parts. A clutch belt, Hollow core spark plug wires, spark plug wire cleaner, and a can or two of seasonal tire air, I like the ride of the Spring air myself. you also will need an adjustable power band, and cross drilled brake lines, engine oil bypass kit, radiator insulator, a box of heavy duty tire beads and some high intensity road flares, and a muffler bearing if you have one lying around... it's really not needed and just for looks. Let me know when you get everything and I can write up a procedure for you to follow.
  19. timgray
    174! no wait 55! I'll stick with 55! My stock mufflers are still like new, and I just spent all my Bike money on progressive springs, diaphragms, lots of other parts, and a really great shape backrest. Though I'd be the smart-alek in this thread
  20. timgray
    Thanks guys! the more info the better! and I can use all the dead radio parts and wiring I can get my hands on. If anyone has any of the parts that are dead, like the handlebar controls, I'd love to tear those apart as well and investigate failure points and detailed wiring.
  21. timgray
    Led accent lights dont need any of that, they point at the engine parts, and other places you want to make look "neat-o" as for brakes and flashers, I am working on a solution that will not need the load resistors. I can do it in a car all day long, the 1st gens decided to be "smart" and you have to override all that smart to upgrade to current technology.
  22. timgray
    I just got my joe-florida kit. He's 100 times cheaper than anyone elses. I could not believe what the guys at sturgis were getting for their kits. In michigan you can only run with yellow or orange without getting a ticket. So that is what I got, fits with my orange gold paint job I'm goingto try the windshield trick, that sounds like a really neat idea.
  23. timgray
    I'm a Electronic Engineer, and have a set of 1st gen radio/intercom parts to "tinker with" on their way to me. In preparation to figure out how these things work and how to fully troubleshoot/ repair them does anyone have any detailed information about the setup? connector pinouts wiring diagrams? etc?? I am hoping to come up with a document to help others keep their radios working and to troubleshoot them. I also have a secret plan to upgrade my 1st gen with a stock radio. I need the space in the fairing for my Ham radio transcever, so the car stereo and it's mount will need to go. Also as a note, if anyone has any dead radio parts they are willing to sell cheap, I am certian I will need more "victims" to be disected on the bench. I might be able to find a common failure point if I go through enough of them.
  24. timgray
    Nobody mentioned this.... Did you check the Carb Sync?
  25. timgray
    I got the same effect with 15W50 Mobil 1 for Diesel trucks in my 1st gen. Bet ya $10.00 its' the same stuff just in a different bottle and mine cost $22.95 for 5 quart jug.
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