timgray

I have not tried this! Thanks!! Off to get some sign material and try this route.

10 wt Tight coils down 5.5" from the top as per instructions Stock anti dive Spacer that came in the box with the springs cut in 1/2, each 1/2 used in left and right. Driver is fat 270lb

Lithium batteries have a set number of charge cycles. when you hit that limit it dies rapidly. So you can start and ride your bike 1500 times then replace the battery. (assuming it has a 1500 cycle limit, cellphone batteries have a 1500 charge cycle limit) Need to see the full specs on the battery that shows the charge cycle lifetime. Lead Acid does not have this problem, nor does it have the rapid failure point, it is far more gradual. Racing guys dont care if a battery only lasts 300 times. IF they win more because of the lighter weight they will pay 500X the price for something. A bike racing friend paid $8900 for a set of carbon fiber wheels for his bike that are 3 pounds lighter.

Finished and test drive done. If you have not done this upgrade, you NEED to do it as soon as possible. The difference is drastic. Handling is improved, still have a comfy ride but when you nail the brakes hard it stays right there. Only drawback, you have slight spring noise that you can hear now because the springs are all the way up to the top. Granted, I cant hear it over my engine and rattling collector. If anyone needs a set of stock springs that have only 40,000 miles on them for the cost of shipping let me know. They are going in the trash in a couple of weeks.

I tried the plastex stuff, and that is also cracking. they have not cracked enough to reach where I drilled the hole, but I can see it starting again. My biggest problem is every single mounting tab I repaired has failed exactly the same way the original has. Anyone have tricks to make the mounting tabs stronger? some of the tabs I replaced using the Plastex method, and those have failed as well. They stayed attached to the fairing, but a new crack has appeared shearing it off, or the plastex it's self splits.

My Venture is starting to crack a LOT. many of the cracks I repaired when I repainted the bike are reappearing, mounting tabs breaking off again, etc.. Anyone have a clue as to how to stop this? I have tried all the recommended repair techniques and all of them fail after a year or two. the ONLY repair that is still intact is where I added an 1/8 thick piece of ABS to the back of the panel. I am back to having to repair or re-repair cracks every spring in hopes of making it through the summer. If I can't stop all this cracking, it may be time to give up on the old girl and sell her for parts.

I have had bad luck with the china alarms. I gave up and now only go with what the pros install in cars at Dealers and shops. CodeAlalrm for cars and Chatterbox for the bike. works perfect and is loud enough to wake me. Problem is all bike alarms go off during thunderstorms. so when a Tstorm is coming you disarm.

If your TCI is dead, you can do what I did. very large screwdriver, drive it in gently between it and the mount near the ear and then, SNAP remove the TCI and leave the mounting screws and the mounting ears where they will live forever. relocating it to the top of the airbox, even if it is 100% perfect is a better location, it's very dry up there unlike where the stock mounting location is. I will never understand why the stock TCI has has Vent holes to let water in.

Ok what is right. The manual for the progressives say 5.5" of oil from the top with the springs installed. Others here on the site are saying 5.5" from the top without the springs installed. When I did that a ton of oil came out as the spring displaced the oil and now the oil leve is at the very top of the forks. What is right?

I found one, Harbor Freight sells a kit of 6 that has a 17 in it with a 1/2 inch drive. Although I never though that Yammaha would be clever and use the sparkplug socket for that. Older Japanese bikes still impress me with some of the things they though of for the end user.

Most of their parts that say they are in stock are in reality not in stock. After 5 days I asked about my order and they said that most of it was on backorder. Certainly never buying from them again. If a company lies by saying things are in stock when they really are not. But the yamaha dealer in my town does the same thing. Call and they say the parts are there, go to pick them up and they say, "the parts will show in 1-2 weeks"

Lastly anyone find a reasonable price on the top caps the Hex Key goes into? I was going to get one just in case, but most places think they are $60.00 each. BikeBandit seems to be keeping to their word on the Bandit pricing.

Anyone know what size the big nuts on the handlebars are? are they 27mm? Also anyone found a source for a 17mm hex key socket?

Unless that starter is actually not off of a 2005 bike like he claims it is it is a 4 brush starter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74131&highlight=starter+upgrade From that link..... Originally Yamaha used a 2 brush starter from 83-90 in the Venture. The 91-93 Venture and RSV used a 4 brush starter. Upgrading to a 4 brush in the earlier bikes may have taken place......so how do you know? If you examine the end plate of the starter and its a Mitsuba SM-229 series....its a 2 brush. If its a Mitsuba SM-13 series...its a 4 brush. ASk the seller if the starter has SM-13 on the end, do not ask if it is a 4 brush as most sellers have no clue at all as to what they are selling.

I found that stealers try and rob you blind. Try and find a small shop. The best place around here is a small harley shop called "Sandys" they are the best on the planet and dont have the typical Harley "snobbery" While the big chain harley shop as well as the honda and Yamaha place all will rob you blind. The Yamma dealer will not touch any bike older than 6 years old.

This. a THOUSAND times this. When it comes to dealing with a company if you don't have it in writing, what is said verbally is worth the air it is floating on. Heck I do this when dealing with people unless they have proven to me their word is good. Been burned too may times by "honest" people and their word.

Any way to eliminate the collector entirely and adapt 4 mufflers on the bike? or if you like it loud, 4 straight pipes? My old honda CB900 had 4 mufflers, I always wondered why our bikes had 2 and that collector that leaks and rattles.

I have had K&N filters when I did dirt bike riding and I will never use them because of what I experienced. I saw more dirt inside my carbs when I used them than when I used paper filters. They flow more(if the airbox and air system allow it, in the venture it will not), but they do not keep everything out like they claim. Friends that run sand rails refuse to use K&N filters as they let sand into the engine. This is my experience, granted dirt riding is a lot dirtier than road riding. Other bikes have the air intake where it get's very dirty air, the Venture has the cleanest air intake location possible. Unless you ride behind semi trucks on dirt roads, I'm betting your air filter looks clean or can be cleaned by tapping the dirt loose. In the last 3 years I check my filter at every oil change and it still looks fine. In fact the filter can be insanely dirty and still flow 100% of the air that the box let's into the engine. The air filter in the venture is really oversized, so you can get a good solid 2 years out of them, unless you are one of those guys that puts 30,000 miles on the bike a year, then it is an issue. I just open the air box and thunk the filter on the bench twice a riding season to knock loose the dirt, lightly blow it with low pressure air and reinstall, the inside of my airbox and carbs looks squeaky clean every time.

If you want more range, do the needle shim mod. 180-200 miles per tank at the same point where I would have 150 is a wonderful thing.

Any chance he can let you have some dyno time to maybe get a bit more out of your current tune settings?

They can't be "refurbished" when the Diode goes it blows up several other components that can not be replaced. Your best bet is to find a working one and then have someone fix the flaw by replacing the diodes with ones that will not disintegrate. Problem is, that will cost as much as an Ingitech.

The diagram you are looking at is "simplified". Here is a photo of the PArt you get for the "brush set" 3AJ-81801-00-00... Notice there are 4 brushes.

Wow, Mine off ebay looked a LOT nicer than those. Mine was dirty with NO corrosion. Some of those look like they sat on the bottom of a lake for 3 years or more.

I'm just bummed that the radio makers ignore us. Yaesu had the FTM-10R made for 1 year a radio with a waterproof remote head, but they priced it insane, and the bluetooth for it was wonky at best. and now that it has been discontinued they are going for ridiculous prices on the used market. (Although hams for some reason think they can get retail price for their used gear, one of the reasons I stopped going to hamfests) I just want a small remote head option that can take getting rained on with an easy mic+PTT interface option. Icom and Kenwood has no interest in selling to motorcycle riders sadly. Although I do know a guy that will do CW while riding and driving on 40meters. has a custom made keyer that he straps to his leg. As for needing 35-50 watts for 2M on the bike... Nope. I do long range QSO's with my 2M all the time from my Handheld that drives a 10 Watt linear that hits the antenna that replaced the FM radio antenna. I get 15-20 miles easy, longer if I hit one of the regional repeaters. I have a 5/8 wave antenna on the back. Talked to a guy in Wisconsin from Michigan last year on 5 watts, Tropospheric ducting is awesome. Sadly 2Meter AM or Sideband is dead in the midwest unless the ISS is overhead.

I remove mine every spring during maintaince. Remove , clean the whole area, relube with dry lube (I like using a silicone+graphite dry lube and then reassemble. I then will relube with a spray of the dry lube at every washing. I live near lake michigan and ride along it a lot. if I did not do this I'd lose a kickstand bolt every year due to the sand that get's in there and will wear things out.