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timgray

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  1. timgray
    I did start the bike yesterday and I still have the same symptom there. It's very rough running at RPM's below 2500 when cold. Dogs out and dies easily until warmed up, then it has very little power until 2500 rpm, after 3000 it's a rocket. Should I retard or advance the timing at the lower ranges, I'm thinking advancing it a bit more, I just want to verify it with someone else that I am thinking on the right line. also because we are topping out on advance changes at 8000rpmin the map why not set the 10th cell at 8000 rpm to give us more tuneability at lower rpm's? I am thinking that even after the Vac sensor get's in place and tuned we wont be making changes in advance after 8000 rpm, so that gives us an additional 2 cells to play with in the lower rpm ranges. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3530/3897667176_2ab8f313b4.jpg I've been studying that and I believe it's right when you look at it closely. the 83 because of the vac pickup location will be backwards from a normal one. it will have the lowest pressure when the throttle is open compared to closed. closed throttle will give pretty close to atmospheric+ any drops from the airbox and filter. Open throttle will create a vac condition at the sensor port that is above the butterfly. to translate this to a normal map and using the proper location which would be #2's sync port use the same map but change the high pressure to be the low pressure, and the low pressure to be even lower as it will be behind the butterfly at idle and a far lower pressure than WOT would be. At the same point it seems we are running the WOT map right now with the steep curve, this would explain the hesitation I am seeing at lower RPM's. BUT: what I need to know is what does the Yamaha sensor read? does it read absolute pressure as I am assuming or is it reading a difference in pressure? I don't think there are any detailed documentation on that darn thing left anywhere. Can anyone take some voltage readings off their Boost sensor on a bike with a working 83 TCI? I need to know the voltage at closed throttle idling, voltage at slightly open running the rpm's to 2000. and voltage at 1/2 throttle. All with the engine running. This will give me more information on what that map means and some insight as to how that sensor is set up inside. The GM 1 Bar sensor has the following Pinout... GM sensor pin-out A = ground B = sensor output C = +5v. Typical GM sensor calibration numbers Gradient 168 Intercept 134 +5V comes from the Ingitech ECM for sensor power. I need to get more info about the Gradient and Intercept. They might not be important to us on this project as they are only really used for the GM ecm's like the 7730
  2. timgray
    And that is why I wont have full coverage on my bike. Them handing me a check for $250.00 and keeping my bike is an insult. I'll keep the wrecked hulk, part it out and be further ahead by not paying more than $79.00 a year. Collision Insurance is a scam. If you put into savings the added premiums you pay, you will be able to give yourself a bigger crash check than they ever will. I can see it on a new bike or car for the first 5 years or until it's paid off, but after that I cant see any value in it.
  3. timgray
    The valves will start floating around 8,000-9,000 rpm. That works as a great rev limiter.
  4. timgray
    I pay $79.00 a year for my 1st gen. I have $0.00 value coverage because they will simply total it and give me a token $250.00 if they have collision coverage on it. If I crash it, I have a broken bike. I pocket the rest to my bike replacement fund.
  5. timgray
    Because most of the new youngsters dont use CB at all, they use FRS. Plus they use bluetooth helmets with their ipods and cellphones so honestly it's not needed at all to put it on the bike. I was ableto get him a deal of the whole radio setup from a 2nd gen for $100.00 and figured we could shoehorn it in. I found a bluetooth setup that will let you talk to other riders that works great. Honestly when I buy my FJR, I'm going all bluetooth. it's far better in every way and no wires is great when the wife forgets to unplug and get off the bike snapping the connector on the trunk side. I dont want a Cd player, I want my mp3 tunes from my iPhone and bluetooth intercom to my wife. or listen to the XM radio in my Bluetooth GPS. honestly with today's technology, the stereo in the bike is not needed at all. As for Cruise control... I agree. any decent bike should come with a real speed controlled cruise control. for some reason the bike makers think that nobody wants a cruise control
  6. timgray
    Ahh ok that Is what I already know, I was worried that they did a completely different cam in the early 1st gens and I was going the opposite direction in my tuning. Thanks!
  7. timgray
    Just a quick update, I'm still working on this, road testing will have to wait for spring though. The bike is in the garage for disassembly so I can locate the GM 1 bar sensor at a good location as well as a lot of other upgrades I need for electrical. I will take photos for everyone and post a "how-to" here for adding in boost sensor.
  8. timgray
    Why? is it because of major engine differences that the 83 advances it to get better economy instead of retarding? is there a completely different cam on the non 83 bikes? I really need to know this info as I work on adding in the ingitech vac sensor to get the same behaivoir for the replacement TCI.
  9. timgray
    83 1st gen, it works great. I have more power than I remember it ever having. Plus I can tweak the timing settings with zero effort. I'm trying to fit in the vac advance that we all know as the "boost" sensor, to get the highway cruise mode in the timing to work, but I am getting better gas mileage than I ever did with the new TCI. Plus I have a ton more confidence in my bike now. of the 3 dead 83 Tci's I have around here all three have the corroded Diode failure. Mine and 1 other were perfect inside except for the diodes. the 3rd looked like it was under water for months.
  10. timgray
    4 ohm car speakers are fine. What is more important is poly cones and rubber surround than anything else to handle the washing water and rain. Pyle and "roadmaster" brands sound good and I have used both in 1st gens. If you want you can spend a lot for "high end" speakers but they will not sound any better than the $19.00 cheapies simply because of where they are mounted and how they are mounted without a back cabinet. Do not worry about wattage rating, your amp will not hurt anything you can buy unless you crank it up and leave it cranked. Watts don't hurt speakers, Clipping and distortion does. I can destroy a set of 10,000Watt capable speakers with a 1 watt amp by clipping to DC and leaving it there as it melts or heats up and distorts the coil. I have ran 50 Watt speakers on a 1000 watt amp and they survived running at 100 watts for years before I overheated them and burned the coils. Amplifier ratings on the box typically are garbage. total Harmonic distortion at a wattage is everything. your stock amp is a MAX 12 watts at 5% distortion... which is huge.. a good amp is 12 watts at 0.05% distortion. When I used to do competition stereos I would put in 1000 watt amps to get a 0.005% at the desired wattage in order to get incredibly clean sounding audio.
  11. timgray
    Take a look at the Yamaha Fjr1300. I tried the Honda, the BMW and will be getting a FJR simply for two reasons... 1 - The wife feels comfortable on it and when I add an aftermarket trunk I get the storage I need with it's saddle bags. 2 - It's ungodly fast. As in a well tuned and perfect running 1983 fast with a 80 pound driver and an extra 200 pounds cut off it. Two up we ate a BMW KT1200 for lunch without much effort, and he was riding single. it also pulls a trailer very nice, as good as my 83 does. A friend of mine let my wife and I swap bikes with him for a week, with handelbar risers and a corrected windscreen it works well and is comfortable to ride for 4 hours with the stock seat. We are putting a 2nd gen radio/intercom/CB on his FJR this winter as it fits nicely with some work and looks stock. Plus with Yamaha Dealers are desperate to sell bikes, I can get one new off the showroom floor with ABS for under $11,000 new. BMW cant touch that. You can buy a ton of farkles as well as heated grips and a heated corbin seat plus gas for 5 years for the price difference. Also maintaince costs are way low. Honda's version has pricey parts, and BMW parts... well we all know how that goes.
  12. timgray
    Twice a year. One in the spring when I get her ready for riding, andthen I pt it on again to check about august.
  13. timgray
    Glad you got lucky and got a working TCI off ebay. I went to the Ingitech simply because I threw away that much on ebay dead TCI's.
  14. timgray
    Carb sync = nothing at WOT. Carb sync is for when you are closer to closed throttle like Idle and highway cruise at 55-70mph. What can be the causes of that. Dirty air filter. a really dirty air filter will significantly reduce power. check that first. Starvation of fuel, Fuel filter plugged. Change that right now, cheapest and easiest to test. Starvation of spark, Are you firing on all 4 cyl? the Venture engine is strong as heck. when I lost my ECM I rode home on 2 cylinders and it felt fine on a 300 mile trip. Pull each plug wire, put in a good spare sparkplug crank it and check to see if you see a good spark. also check the spark plugs. are they clean? wet? wet or oiliy or very dirty will foul a plug. The venture has a very weak spark so the plugs flul easier than most cars.
  15. timgray
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Autopage-MA-210-Motorcycle-Alarm-System-2-Way-Paging_W0QQitemZ320416971172QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4a9a56f9a4 Autopage MA-210 two way alarm. WORKS FANTASTIC. I get plenty of range on the remote so I get alerted in a restaurant or hotel. also autopage is a high end alarm company. Yamaha and Suzuki use them as OEM alarms.
  16. timgray

    No escaping this guy!

    timgray replied to Hulk's topic in Videos

    A lot of cops are riding the FJR1300's as well as the K1200's These bikes are at least 4X faster than any harley and handle like a dream for that kind of stuff. The biggest reason for the change is not the speed and handling. It's that the police department can get 2-3 of them for the price of one harley. They are saving money and getting a major performance boost.
  17. timgray
    if it is the stator wires, then there is no order. If they melted, the stator is probably fried they are kind of delicate in stock form already, I would open the stator cover and inspect it before hooking anything back up. at minimum do a ohm check between each other and to ground. If you burned up your stator, $150.00 to replace yourself for new, less if you find a used on on ebay. I would get a upgraded one if you are spending the money on a new one. Also get a new gasket... Never ever just fix a melted wire, the wires melt because something went horribly wrong. inspect everything carefully on both ends of the wire before attempting a repair. if you just hook it back up without inspecting and testing it may fry your regulator next.. Now you get to replace even more parts... I am unsure what each stator wire should read in ohms, someone should pop in with how to test it.
  18. timgray
    Do you really have to have a Class A motorhome? a truck+5th wheel is far cheaper so you can buy more for the money, and you will have zero service issues. a 40 foot 5th wheel with a 14 foot garage for your motorcycle that is far more luxurious than a motorhome can be had for less than $48,000 right now as dealers are hard up and selling at cost. I looked at one that even had a fiberglass underpan that was insulated and heated for year round use in northern climates that was far nicer than my own home. that was dirt cheap. couple that with ford and GM pretty much giving away trucks and you have a better combo. Plus you dont have to drag another car around with you AND can have your motorcycle wherever you go as well.
  19. timgray
    never paint, use spray bedliner. stronger than powedercoat and far cheaper.
  20. timgray
    what I am interested is how long it will last for you. I have yet to see a Ebay HID retrofit kit last more than 1 year.
  21. timgray
    jameco.com look at their switches and buy what looks close to it.
  22. timgray
    I think tvikings settings need a little more tweaking. Honestly, the low RPM could use a little bit more help, and when I switched to a tank full of premium fuel I gained seat of the pants feel of power at the higher end. I can't hear knock or ping at any speeds above 25mph, but that does not mean they are not there. I need to get a knock sensor on the engine before I can safely start tweaking the map more and say without a doubt that it's right. Anyone can easily replicate my Vac sensor hook up. take a hose from the sync port where the 86+ get their boost sensor readings and hook it to a cheap GM 1 bar MAP sensor. you can get a wire pigtail on ebay to make it easy, or go cut one out of a junkyard car. I hooked it in and I can watch on the computer software interface the "Throttle position" readout. You can stuff it all under the tank cover next to the TCI. I have not did much on the MAP sensor yet, It's been 32 degrees to 40 degrees out.. I am trying to be overly cautious. but the MAP sensor will allow us to have a progressive spark map that will give better than stock performance as you can adjust more.
  23. timgray
    Be careful when back probing the stator connector when running. there is over 90-100Volts AC on those and it will give you a healthy poke. What you can start with. Bike off, unplug the stator wire and measure between all three, three times.... What this means is pick a wire put the black probe on that wire, measure from that one to another, then the other. put the black probe on the next one, do the same test, then switch to the last wire and repeat again. finally measure each wire to ground. you should NOT get any connection to ground, and all the numbers should read very close to each other but not read a short or an open. Measure with Ohms setting set to 1K or 2K range (2000 ohm max reading) Then reassemble the connections, and start the bike, back probe each probe to each other as before but measuring AC voltage. All should be close to each other in voltage. If one is low then you have a problem. Report back here what you find and we can help you further.
  24. timgray
    Are all the stators for the 1st gens the same or did the 83-85 have a different one from the later years? I'm thinking of picking up a high output one to compliment my new regulator upgrade.
  25. timgray
    Because people are having trouble finding a good write up and pictures on how to do this here's a blatent Robbery of the image and text from the other site that has this info... You can use the stock wiring and mount it where the old one is. you do not have to upgrade your wires, just simply tape off the brown one and not use it but protect it from getting shorted out. You can add a fuse as some others have, or leave it un-fused like Yamaha did with your stock regulator. I suggest a fuse, it's cheap insurance. Here is the data sheet on it : http://www.shindengen.com/resources/content/1/1/1/1/documents/FH012%20Data.pdf Connections from the top as you hold the regulator plugs facing you and with the gray connector on top. Grey connector -input. Stator wires x3, order does not matter. Black connector -output. Positive connection wired directly at battery or main fuse. Mid male pin not connected. Last is ground (-). The second picture is from a honda site that people are using the same one, this shows it used without the weatherproof connectors but regular old space connectors that actually do fit. Also you can get a regulator like this off of a crashed FJR. same pinout but a much larger heatsink that makes it harder to mount.
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