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timgray

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Everything posted by timgray

  1. Sweet! dyno time! I found the same NAPA restrictor at PepBoys. it's back by all their "help" stuff. look in all the vac line T's and there is a single restrictor. It has a brass insert that reduces to a very tiny hole. doorman 47311 is the part number. New map and new restrictor is going in tonight. none of the NAPA stores around here had the NAPA one, and I stumbled on the Pep Boys part.
  2. I really agree with that. Lane splitting at 70mph is only done by complete and total idiots. I point out to people on a regular basis that the people that do that stuff are not Bikers, just a really dumb moped rider that accidentally bought a motorcycle.
  3. Yup I watched the videos, I see about the same amount of jumping. I will get that napa part. I'll load the new spark-map tonight you emailed me. I have a long run planned for this weekend, Hope to run through a full tank of gas that will be all highway to get a idea of gas mileage. I'll try to get in a tank full of city riding as well. I was not clear on what I meant, I was wondering about how you calculated what the voltage level you would enter for WOT and 0% throttle readings. I was using a vac gauge and voltmeter and was surprised that your numbers were very close to mine. I had no idea what the bike really ran at, so I took a ride with a vac gauge and tried to remember what I saw at different rpm ranges at open and closed throttle, then averaged them. then I took a vac hand pump with gauge and a voltmeter and found what the MAP was giving me. crimson Knight... have you verified that your pickup coils are good? you need to do the voltmeter test on it to check. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28434&highlight=test+pickup+coils http://venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13654&d=1195603168 I have a automotive ignition oscilliscope so I tested them when the bike was running on my defective TCI. so I saw the pulses.
  4. Two things. I still have the TPS signal jumping around. I put in a 1/16th inch restrictor (basically a chunk of Vac line that has that small of a center diameter) at the 1/2 way point in the line and it's still jumping a bit. BUT: the current spark map does run DRASTICALLY different. I was running the better map we had for no TPS to warm up the bike, I switched off the TCI and killed the engine by flipping the run switch to off and then back on again. I loaded the new spark map and restarted. The bike is a completely different beast. It ran like new at startup. actually I had to adjust idle down a bit as the new spark map was idling at 1500 rpm instead of 800. Throttle response was 800% better than before, the flat spot I was feeling at 3000 rpm is gone. I tried very hard to make it knock or ping. I am running fresh low grade regular unleaded and luged the engine a lot even took off in 2nd and at 25mph I shifted to 5th and floored it. the bike happily complied. I am using a GM 1 bar MAP sensor that was pulled from a 1987 car, I did not change any settings in the TPS ranges. I loaded the map, made no changes, and went for a ride. I think we are dead on for a stock replacement for a 1st gen MkI and MkII. i would love to get the bike on a dyno with a known perfect stock TCI and pull some runs and then switch to the ingitech+MAP and pull some runs. Awesome Job!
  5. I took a couple of small rides. I'm going to load your latest map on the bike this week and take a long run in stop and go traffic this weekend if the weather permits. I feel that we are getting really close, and honestly my bike is running better overall than when it had the stock TCI and it ran well. I do know I feel more confident in the bike for longer rides with the Ingitech than I would running a used ebay TCI. I'll post an update after I get some saddle time with the current map. Curious... how did you set WOT for the throttle position settings?
  6. and I saw one destroyed for the Cash for clunkers trade in. It was in good shape too. I get my kicks with the kids around here riding the smaller cheap "Ninjas". Sorry but your 250cc sportbike is no match at all for my geezer glide. Lots of fun.
  7. timgray

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  8. timgray

    ventureuserbar

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  9. timgray

    My bike

    Photos of my Venture
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    timbike4

    From the album: My bike

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    timbike3

    From the album: My bike

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    timbike2

    From the album: My bike

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    timbike1

    From the album: My bike

  14. To verify, you have your MAP sensor on the #2 port like they do for the 84+ stock bikes? That is where mine is and I want to make sure I am 100% identical to your setup so we can cross test and verify. Also can you email me your current map? I'll load it in my bike and see if I have the exact same result. I will be taking photos and doing a write-up on how to add the sensor in for others that want to follow in our footsteps. I really hope that ingitech still sends extra pins with the module as that made it super easy to add in the MAP sensor. P.S. where did you mount yours? mine is floating under the gas cover with the TCI, I'm thinking of relocating it but leaving the long tubing run.
  15. I'm wondering if it might not be a better idea to try and find a place to hook a TPS sensor to a carb. or even the throttle cable. some of them out there are really small. I'm concerned about using a vac sensor to get an accurate TPS reading. I know that Yamaha has done it that way for a really long time but Todd and I are both finding reading that are concerning when messing with the changes. I'm adding in a vacuum restriction in line for my sensor next time to try and smooth out the readings more.
  16. for the vmax timing table? yes. but the only venture one we have it shows the timing to start at 12 degrees for idle. now for WOT it shows 5 deg for idle. but the venture could never have measured WOT with it's vac sensor until it gets above 2000 rpm. honestly, the vac sensor will probably rise as rpm's go up so we will have to replicate the table across several TPS settings. The WIERD part is that the venture table actualyl shows we need to reduce timing after 3000 rpm to 9000 rpm over a slow slope. that is strange to me as I have never sen a timing curve that was like that.
  17. The rivet on my front fender mudflap pulled through and was causing my rattle rattle. I drilled out the other two rivets and removed the flap.... that eliminated it. when I repainted, I repaired the fender and reattached the fender with plastic rivits so they wont rub and pull through. (metal on plastic = hole in plastic.)
  18. That one is very different from the Venture timing map we have. I really wish we could get one that was actually accurate instead of a generic small copy. I'd love a full 8X11 engineering spec version that showed the actual manufacturing curve and accurate divisions at every 100 rpm and 1 deg.
  19. I'd love to try your tweaked map, you can email it to me at timgray1@gmail.com... I hope to get some base numbers so we can start working on the vac advance soon. Cold weather start only rears it's head when the bike and air temperature is below 40 degrees. There is a possibility the Ingitech came without a program installed in it. I was able to program mine with Vista, never tried it under Windows 7. But I also used a expresscard Serial adapter. I have never had a usb serial adapter work for anything. I now have a old laptop running windows 2000 for all bike and car related stuff. a real serial port built in is worth it's weight in gold. I picked up an old P-III laptop off ebay for $25.00 with the OS installed.
  20. I run mobil 1 in my 83 with zero problems. you have to buy mobil1 that has no friction modifiers though. Also, mirrors can be had cheaper, pull the black plugs on the clutch and brake cylinders and install standard bike handlebar mounted mirrors... they screw right in.
  21. I was able to get in a lot more riding time in the bike the past few days to have the following observations.... Ran 1 tank through with seafoam after winter storage to clean out system. refilled with standard unleaded gas for second tank. On the second tank of gas the Ingitech is running very well. It actually starts better than it used to with the stock TCI. I have not hooked up the MAP sensor to start with replacing the "boost sensor" functionality on the bike. I need to get more readings from the bike as to what it wants. If I can figure out how to not color the signal but protect the ingitech TCI from the stock boost sensor failure I will also try using the stock sensor to get readings. I did notice that at cruise there is a bit of a flat spot at 3000 rpm it seems like it lacks power there. getting on the throttle though gets out of the flat spot fast. I need to test this a bit more to see if it's my imagination or if it's a real flat spot. Fuel economy seems down, but I need to run a few tanks and calculate to make sure. I honestly would recommend that anyone that has a dead TCI to get the ingitech and apply the spark map from this thread. It's going to be 4X more reliable than a used TCI from ebay.
  22. Even if they gave you a warranty for the next 100,000,000 miles I would never put in a OEM stator on a bike. They are too old and for less than 1/4 the price you get a better one that will last longer. My new regulator is exactly where the old one went. I cut a plate of aluminum to make a mount. now it has lots of air and the thing is more waterproof than the stock one.
  23. Never had an optima last more than 2 years. I simply replace my battery every spring, Cheaper than a new optima every 2. Has anyone else had better luck with them? I've used them in cars and have always been disappointed with them, even with a $300.00 battery tender for winter storage they still die as fast as a el-cheapo battery for me.
  24. Mine is in a metallic Firemist Orange. a color from the 1970's. Over that is a custom erriedes paint effect that has some color airbrushing and overall covered in a gold+red metalflake under the clear. It looks incredible in the sunlight all polished up. It's my first paintjob on a bike... I did have some help from a friend that won tons of awards doing hotrod paint though
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