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timgray

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Everything posted by timgray

  1. timgray
    From the ones I have been inside, the diodes on the board simply turn to powder with age. when they do a good bump will dislodge the center of the diode causing it to fail. 4 of these diodes are for dealing with the voltage spike that happens when a coil fires they protect the transistors that trigger the coils to fire. when they fail they allow the full spike that can be in the 1000 volt range or more to hit the transistor. This is typically far higher than the reverse voltage rating of the transistor and will travel through the transistor to the circuitry behind it. blowing parts up. a single spike wont do much damage, but when you lose the diode on the highway, in 3 seconds you just gave the TCI 12,000 overvoltage spikes ensuring destruction of the TCI components. If you have a good TCI, you need to carefully take it apart, dry it out, clean it up and replace the diodes that will fail with correct ones that will last another 20 years. It takes good soldering skills and equipment. the 20+ year old pheonlic board will lift the copper traces in a heartbeat when you heat the board to upgrade the diodes. It's pretty much a difficult job. Many fail from water damage, the rest fail from the faulty diodes.
  2. timgray
    Please do! anything to make this easier for people the better. I'm also trying to find a source for the pins for those that did not get a set of extra pins with their ingitech tci. I need to take a look at my garage computer to see what I loaded. I'll let you know this evening.
  3. timgray
    That is a normal death for a TCI from what I have seen in the 5 TCI's I have taken apart. the diodes are defective and with time disintegrate. When they drop off the flyback voltage from the coils blows up other items in the TCI rendering it near impossible to fix. I have an electronics engineering degree and I gave up after 12 hours of replacing parts on one that looked new but had the disintegrated diodes like yours has. Most used ones on Ebay are in this bad of shape or are ready to fail. I wasted several hundred dollars buying them until I went with a ingitech aftermarket tci. If you can find a good TCI that does not have diode disintegration, good for you! I tried over the course of 4 months and 5 winning auctions to only end up with 5 dead or ready to die TCI's. The ingitech works great and with a tiny bit of work you can replace the tci and add a GM MAP sensor to get a reliable replacement. look for the aftermarket TCI thread for more info.
  4. timgray
    http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/457 for the GM MAP sensor connector... It allows you to make the wires look better without splices. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/440 This is the MAP sensor to use... Any 1 BAR map sensor is fine.. If the car does not have a Turbo or Supercharger on it, It's a 1 BAR sensor.. $4.00 from most junkyards and they rarely go bad. MAP Sensor Pinout... They all share a common pin-out, although the connector keying may be different: Pin A -- Ground Pin B -- Sensor output Pin C -- +5 volts 5 Volts is supplied from the Ingitech box. Note: with 1 month old gas I was experiencing Pinging at low RPM take off from a stop. No audible pinging at any other range or load, only at stoplight low throttle takeoff. Putting in 1 gallon of premium to a mostly full tank made the pinging go away.
  5. timgray
    I must have mis-read your post. My point was that an 84+ TCI pulls the Vac from the same side of the carb you test for Carb sync, below the throttle plates. So there is no reason to drill a hole on a 83 bike to install a 84+TCI. So installing a 84-89 TCI on a 83 bike needs no holes drilled, just use the carb sync port and cap off the old 83 vac sensor port. But using a 83 TCI on a 84-89 bike needs a hole drilled and a port added.
  6. timgray
    Leg injury and work going strong has kept me off the bike. I have not had a chance to fix the idle issue. I'm getting on her or at least working on it this weekend though.... I really hope we can get some dyno info off this, I think the map you made is pretty darn close to perfect from how the bike feels to me on the road.
  7. timgray
    EDIT to remove bad information from me not reading right..... OOPS! I did not read correctly... too many smacks to the head or it might be effects of joining the over the bars club when I was younger... I strongly suggest looking at the aftermarket ingitech. I trust it being new compared to a used unit that will fail on the road like mine. The diodes in the Stock Yamaha TCI's are defective and will self destruct from age. My original TCI was perfect inside except for the diodes disintegrated. when they fail they also take out other parts of the TCI so that repair is no longer possible. I also spent a lot of money buying TCI units used off ebay only to spend the same money for the ingitech in dead TCI units.
  8. timgray
    I got mine super low. I bought a set of the cheap highway pegs and ripped the pegs off clamped them to the engine crash bar low and mounted my lights there. Works great and really makes a difference getting them a few inches off the ground. I'll snap a detailed daytime shot today and upload later. Note: those are my custom LED driving/fog lights. 6 watts of light and as bright as the 35watt halogens. The yellow one get's everyone's attention.
  9. timgray
    Looks GREAT! like it belongs there. My only worry, is it waterproof? Most items for cars are not because they assume it will be in a nice dry cabin area... Is the tach sealed it's self as well as the cup?
  10. timgray
    And a FJR1300 will eat a Vrod so fast the dealer that sold the bike will feel it. Compare apples to apples. Race a modern Vrod with a Modern Yamaha. The 1st gen will do High 11's take off the bags (83-84 guys have the biggest advantage here.) remove the rear floorboards as well... every ounce makes a difference. Mine with a bad 2nd gear was able to do mid 12's on a dyno dragrace.. Everyone was razzing the old fart on his geezer glide... I was beating everyone (mostly harley sportsers and kids with I wanna nitro my geezer glide!
  11. timgray
    I run my elite II's at the sidewall recommendation.. 40psi. When I ran at 32 the bike was squirly as all get out. Front and rear Elite II's and they are both at 40psi all the time.
  12. timgray
    It depends on what you want.... I have rode a honda Dauville (NT700V) not too long ago, and they are a really really nice bike and insanely reliable. A buddy in europe has had one for 10 years and has well over 250,000 miles on it (450,000+km) and has had no issues. It's just right powered, so you wont be winning drag races, but he also typically get's well over 50mpg on it. If you want FAST and a touring bike, the FJR1300 from yamaha cant be beat. It's an insane bike and witha corbin seat very comfy. If you want a "geezer glide" as I was told they are called., then a Goldwing is the choice. but I can buy 3-4 Dauville bikes for the price of one. I personally think the goldwing has become really overpriced, but they are a very nice and comfy bike. I personally dont like the 1930's retro big bad biker harley clone look. but if that's your style, the current RSV and other offerings cant be beat there as well....
  13. timgray
    Ship the Venture over to Ireland, get on and ride until I'm looking at the Pacific ocean.
  14. timgray
    I have been averaging 38.7Mpg riding 2 up. This is nearly exact to what I was getting with the stock TCI.
  15. timgray
    Huh.. My scala Q2 setup works perfectly. bot we ride with full face helmets (composite) and we use a on word. "HEY" loud will always turn the intercom back on. It took only a short time for us to get completely used to it. I wonder if the Rider setup is different. I chose the Q2 so she can yack on her cellphone to her friends instead of me.
  16. timgray
    I do ciders and honey wine. I'm looking to start beer one of these days. I make a hard apple cider that is a mixture of rocket fuel and apples that has a great flavor and sweetness balance. The Honey wine.... well that stuff is plain old expensive to make. 15 pounds of filtered honey is nearly 75.00 but its incredible when done right.
  17. timgray
    There is an OK clunk.... I get a clunk over big bumps. It's the center stand slapping back. from what I can tell that is a normal clunk sound.
  18. timgray
    Got in a nice long ride. Went to blessing in Baldwin,mi drove 164 miles total excluding idling for 2 hours in traffic. Used only 1 tank of gas. But I noticed something. When the bike is warmed up everything is great. but when the bike get's really warm, Temp gauge in the top 1/2 idle jumps from the 700rpm I had it set at to 1600 rpm. there is no temperature sensor so, is there any way the TCI could cause this? anyone else with the current spark map with MAP sensor installed see a junp in idle after getting the engine temp up to a hotter level? With my MAP sensor on top of the airbox I believe it's not getting heated up and causing a change in readings it is sending to the TCI. I want to rule out any anomaly in my bike so I can test properly. Everything else is all running great. highway cruise is good, lower speed riding is good. Starting is even easier from cold and hot. I even have enough power to make the clutch slip in 3rd when I'm getting on it hard to keep up with the pack. the clutch never slipped last year, so I am getting more power now than with the stock TCI that I was running.
  19. timgray
    A 1st gen venture will get WORSE gas mileage if you run anything but low grade gas in it. Midgrade and premium make it run worse and actually use more gas. They are set from the factory to run the 87 Octane. Any higher will not burn right with the timing and simply waste fuel and money. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating Unless you are running a High compression performance engine or a Turbocharged, or supercharged engine, running anything but th 87 octane is a waste of money and gas. If you want the super special "techron" additive then buy a bottle of it (techron fuel system cleaner) and add 2oz at every fill up.
  20. timgray
    Hey! I resemble that... not my brothers car, but his looked almost identical to this one...
  21. timgray
    cant see any of the images. Another Problem is when a bike is going way over the speed limit even an attentive driver will pull out. A small bike, going way-way over the speed limit, looks like a bike going the speed limit. very few people can judge the speed of oncoming vehicles. This is why you see people pull out in front of a train going 100mph. the train looks like it's going 30 mph and there is enough room to safely cross. The crotch rocket rider, if he was doing 85 wrote his own death warrant doing that on a road that had cross streets. That said, I have seen Suburbans cut in 1/2 with a harley bagger. The guy on the harley left a 1500 foot long black mark and was doing near 100 mph when he t-boned the truck. he left the black mark because he did not know how to ride, only used the back brake.
  22. timgray
    Why not simply gut the panel and use automotive gauges? It would probably be cheaper and easier to get.
  23. timgray
    I tried 5 of them and never had one record worth a darn. they vibrate too much unless you have it mounted to your head. the "anti viibration mount" they claim it has is not. throttle and road shake it horibly. I tried the $99.00 to the $499.00 version. they all record the same. I found a $199 regular CF card camcorder works better had a far clearer picture and wrapped in a towel and bungiee corded to the rear rack aimed back. I simply lead the pack and then slow down and then speed back through. My wife will hold it for other shots... none of the "sports cams" are worth a darn if you want clear video that is not shakey.
  24. timgray
    What? you mean it's not safe to ride in a tshirt, shorts, flipflops and a nutshell that is not DOT? how about riding like a idiot lanesplitting at 90 wearing that? That seems to be the uniform for the sportbike riders around here.
  25. timgray
    My 83 felt tippy until I learned the bike and made one MAJOR adjustment. I got some good riding boots with 1.5" heels. that made a gigantic difference. being able to flat foot the ground and have a really grippy booot sole that wont slip even in sand made the difference between night and day. They are a challenging bike though. not light and really easy to ride like a NT700V or a smaller bike that weighs nearly 1/2 these do.
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