timgray

I let her cool off outside then put it in the garage. Never any gas stink. When I put it away hot is when I get a gas stink

This. do NOT use "plain old dino oil" If it has the starburst on it with "energy saving" on the label, then you get to buy a new clutch because the additives will soak in and it will slip forever and ever. Use either motorcycle oil or Rotella. Do not believe any of the guys that claim they run any old oil in their bike. You CAN use any old dino that does not have "energy saving" and is at least 15W40. But you will also start wearing out your valve shims and cams. If you do not get a oil that has high Zinc content the valvetrain will start wearing faster. (I own classic cars with flat tappets, they suffer from this as well) The Rotella has a lot but the EPA is trying to force them to lower it. I am starting to run with an ounce of GM EOS ZDDP additive in every car or 1/2 oz in every bike I own that is older than 1995 at every oil change. http://www.zddplus.com/ - this stuff you can use 1/4 an ounce in the bike $10 a 4 oz bottle and will last you a few years if you are a normal rider. You are riding an antique classic, Motor Oil today is not designed for your bike. you do need to be picky about what you run if you want to keep the bike forever. Rock Auto has the oil filters for a lot cheaper and they come with the o Rings you are supposed to replace at every change. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,25496,parttype,5340 just buy 5 of them and keep them in the garage.

If you want to use the GPS in the sunlight, your only choice is a Zumo or other Motorcycle GPS that has a reflective display. The $99.00-$199.00 GPS's are useless on the handlebars in sunlight. IF you want to find one that works well on a bike, go to the store with a super bright flashlight and aim it directly at the screen. if you can still read it with the flashlight blasting the GPS screen, it's useable on a motorcycle. very few GPS's have a line level out to plug into an AUX audio jack. Not even the $800 Zumo models have that.

I have done that. Both AM and FM stops working, except for the single FM station that is 12 blocks away. Both bands use the antenna. IF the coil in the radio was the only one used, then nothing will work as the whole radio case is metal. The "COIL" in there is to do a matching for AM to the short FM antenna whip that is on the car. Disclaimer: I have an Electronics Engineering Degree and a Ham Radio Operator that has built radios and antennas.

If he disassembled the forks then he removed the handlebars and possibly damaged a wire. I would check the wires going to the start/run switch for the entire length.

To clean that crud off the tires. Get some dishwashing detergent and mix about 2 Tablespoons in a small bucket. scrub down the tires and rims with it. dont wash t he bike with it unless you are ready to re-wax the whole bike. Dishwash soap will strip wax off of everything. This will get the tire dressing off and clean up the crud on the wheels very nicely. Now get in there and wax the shiny parts of the wheels so they dont corrode.

Look it up on Rockauto.com. Last I saw them $6.00 each and came with both o rings. The Yamma dealers take the rings out of the package and then try to sell them to you at $6.00 each.

That stator is fried, I feel bad for the person that buys that dead part.

That video is staged as a joke BTW.... Any early warning will increase your chances to avoid yet another fool in a cage trying to kill you. Even if you can see the blind spots in your mirrors, you are not looking at them all the time. An orange light and a beep can warn you right away that there is someone trying to sideswipe you or run you off the road.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_60895_GOSHERS-BSDS-003016.html Anyone know if we could use this kind of stuff as a lane intrusion warning system for when a car decides to start running us off the road?

I will live with the noise. I can't hear it when riding so I'll be ok without it.

How do you balance your own motorcycle tire install? I would love to do it myself but I cant figure out how to balance them for 70mph.

I have a Regulator and the connectors available for sale. I found my connector kit that is unused. I bought 2 because I lost one, and of course as soon as I installed the second one, I found the first in the box. $65.00 + whatever shipping would be for the regulator and the connectors.

It runs even better with about 2 oz of seafoam or Techron added to every tankfull. Those carbs really need constant TLC to stay running perfect.

What kind of lift did he have? all the ones I see are useless for tire changing as they lift it by the tires.

Can you read the screen in direct sun? That is the only real advantage I could find with a Nuvi for the bike. Every other GPS I had was useless on the bike in sunlight as the screen washes out to nothing.

Looking to replace my grips but finding conflicting information here. Some say to buy 7/8" grips, others say to buy Goldwing grips. Goldwing grips are 1" from what I see on all sites. What is correct?

This is why I carry a very high power 400 lumen LED flashlight with me and some duct tape. you can tape the flashlight to the bike to light your way. Problem is it looked like it took out two, did you lose your tail lights as well?

Yes, look here for the threads on the Upgraded R&R for others that experienced the same thing I have with the upgrade... The stock one pulls maximum amps from the stator at all times, causing the stator to run very hot all the time as well as the wiring and the connector. The upgrade will only pull a load on the stator when needed, this makes the stator run a lot cooler and last the life of the bike (if you dont ride with 500 watts of driving lights, heated vest, heated gloves, heated grips, heated seat, coffee maker, Heated blanket for the wife, etc...) My stator wires went from hot enough to burn your hands to slightly warm after only swapping out the R&R to the one from the FJR1300. I then upgraded to the hotshot stator and now I charge at full voltage at idle of 700 rpm, the wires are still only slightly warm after a long ride.

Have you looked at the Triumph Trophy?

I have a Ricks Hot Shot stator and like it a lot, The biggest change is 13.5 volts and charging at idle. but you MUST have the stator cooking kit from yamaha installed in order for it to last. do you also have an upgraded R&R? because I dont trust the stock one to do anything but burn up stators.

I strongly suggest following it up with a heavy dose of Seafoam AND techron at the same time. I find 3 ounces of each in a full tank makes a powerful carb cleanup mix if you ride to get the mix into the carbs and let it sit overnight.

I like that you can perform most of the routine service without disassembling the bike. I hate taking off the side panels as I have to remove the passenger floorboards and the back rest mounts

Anyone know if the NGK ones that have the window on them do they work just fine or does that added spark gap for "show" cause any issues with our really low power ignition system?

Using the OEM ones, you can still hear some spring noise, not when the bike is running, but it is still there. I think it's just because the springs are significantly longer and therefore moving around a little bit when you really jump on it. Oh and running with no air in the shocks. The progressives dont need it even with the spacers cut in 1/2