Bummer
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Everything posted by Bummer
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How to tell if the rear shock it going bad?
Bummer replied to Gamecock's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I agree. For the money I'd like to have one that's actually adjustable. On the other hand, I usually keep the shock set for two up touring even when it's just me. Because of circumstance I plan to try to squeeze a replacement out of Yamaha under warranty next winter. I have nearly 40k on it now and can't really imagine it lasting a whole lot longer. After that I plan to get a Works shock set for full up riding. -
I knew I'd seen it somewhere. I guess I was just looking for the wrong name.
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How to tell if the rear shock it going bad?
Bummer replied to Gamecock's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Interesting. It would seem that the Works Performance shock, which is $689 and rebuildable, is now less than the Yamaha shock. -
One thing that seems missing (unless I missed it) is information about the "grease the splines" instruction. In the center of the wheel, on the side that goes into the final drive assembly, there is a circlip. Remove it and remove the part that comes out. On the inside there are five pins that go into bushings in the wheel. Those pins need to be cleaned and greased every time the tire is changed. It's really pretty easy, except for getting the circlip off then back on - those always seem to be a pain. I got a couple of spare circlips from Yamaha. I'm forever stretching the things when I remove them. A good set of circlip pliers are well worth the expense. FWIW I'm still looking for a truly good set. I've had several and I've wound up disliking them all. This is, of course, in addition to greasing the actual splines that mate when you put the wheel into the final drive.
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Do you have a backup of your data? If not, make one now. Do not turn the box off first. Make the backup while it's still on. I use an external USB hard drive (two actually, each with it's own copy) and dump everything I care about onto it periodically. I do not back up the OS itself in this manner. While it is possible to get data off of a drive once the box has died, it can be a pain. Easier to do it ahead of time.
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FreezyRider suggested it. I was learning how to wrap text in my graphics program. It's from the State song. Potato Creek is the site of the first VR.o get-together. Play on VentureRider.org as home. Other than that, no particular reason.
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Page 3-17. Counter clockwise on the outer/curved tube side nut, then tighten the locking nut. This should move the tip of the curved tube toward the vacuum actuator, creating more slack in the cable.
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I have a set of Rivco air horns that hang under the swing arms, and a pair of Fiamm extra loud electrics inside the fairing. They add up to a loud combination. I'm also looking at adding the Stebel 300hz truck horn just to make it interesting. One thing of note: We wear our headsets pretty much all the time. When the CB is on the horns feed back into the headsets. That's loud!
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I got the LED inserts. Eclipze for the front with a BAZE-T plug on a pigtail (three pin). They didn't have the Moon Shines when I got mine. I'm not positive what year they changed, but I know the '06 has three pin fronts. You do not need load equalizers unless you want them. The signals will just flash a little fast. Nothing crazy. Like having a burned out bulb. A few people have told my I had a light out. Bottom line: People notice. That's what counts.
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I really am looking for a 14mm master cylinder. This is a strong suggestion from both Squeeze and Pegscraper. I've also found write-ups about it, all suggesting the change in mc to match the change in calipers. I converted to blue dots but I haven't tested 'em yet. (Haven't gotten to ride since mid Dec. Twitch. Twitch.) I also put one of the stock two piston calipers off the front onto the back to try out. I'm hoping for a weaker grip out of it, and as a result, less chance of a lockup. Might get to go for a ride tomorrow to test out my brake changes. Supposed to be 40 and dry. No chores to stop me. (Fingers crossed.)
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I'll be happy to be wrong. According to what I've read Clarion dropped C-BUS and went to CeNet format after 1998. I can't imagine a new 'Wing having a ten year out of date audio communications format. Still, if J&M whips one up I'll be interested in hearing about it.
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Thoughts and prayers.
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If LilBeaver does move to R1/R6 calipers he may want to know about the front master cylinder issue. The stock front mc is 5/8", which is pretty close to 16mm. The R1/R6 calipers use a 14mm mc. Mismatching the mc to the caliper can lead to a more "digital", presumably on/off feel, possibly with less ability to smoothly modulate braking. Not saying it won't work, just that a lot of the folks who have made the caliper change wound up making the mc change also, for a better feel.
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Kentucky? Yes. Sublimity Bridge, off of 192 through the Daniel Boone National Forest between Somerset and Corbin. There are several really great roads in that area.
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That guy is absolutely huge!
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So Skydoc, any thoughts on where to pick up a 14mm brake master cylinder to go with those blue dot calipers? Aside from Yamaha, of course. Also, have you tried putting one of the spare two piston calipers on the back to replace that overly grabby four piston job? I'm afraid it would take an 8mm rear master cylinder (which probably doesn't even exist) to make that work properly, but I haven't actually tried it yet. (Everything's in place for the test run, just waiting for the roads to thaw...)
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You take as long as you need. We want to see you back to 100%. Above all we don't want it to be painful or long, just full.
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I don't know if your doc mentioned this, but I had to clean the pin sites with hydrogen peroxide using q-tips daily. The q-tips let me get down into the holes on the larger sites. They also gave me foam rubber pieces to put on the pins and push against the leg to help keep the sites isolated until they healed up. In general if they hurt any at all there was a problem. (Good luck.)
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Inside the left lower fairing. Above the hidden horn.
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There's a single cable that goes from the throttle cable joint to the vacuum actuator. If the slack isn't right you can't set cruise. (8-71) If touching the throttle makes it come out of cruise it would seem that it's pretty close to not setting at all. That's what lead me to suggest the adjustment at the vacuum actuator.
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And I didn't even mention the ten surgeries, the external fixture, or the titanium parts. (I only limp a little bit when I get tired.) On the other hand, I still ride. I found this place while I was in the hospital and had a few great adVentures. Made a lot of friends I'd do anything for - never had any brothers before, now I do. All in all I don't know if I'd volunteer to do it again, but I'm really not sorry it happened. I do, however, keep the medical and the uninsured/underinsured maxed out. Above all, I still ride.
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Ok, where's Goose? I'm thinking you're in need of an adjustment. Throttle free play at the vacuum actuator. Grab a copy of the shop manual and check page 8-71. I am thinking your throttle free play (a) is not within spec (1-2mm). But that's actually just a guess.
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What level of coverage did you get? I'm maxed out. Top of the line coverage for $755 a year from Progressive. In '05 I got picked off of a new '05 by one of our uninvited visitors from the south. No license, no insurance, no green card, no stick around. A girl in traffic chased him for forty minutes before the LEOs caught up and cuffed and stuffed him and his buddy. He got 90 days. I got a crushed left leg with severed artery and a year of down time complete with bone graft. My health insurance covered most of the leg with Progressive chipping in their part. They paid off the bike and gave me the balance. When the bills went over what they'd already paid a young lady showed up and gave me a check for the uninsured/underinsured. It covered all our expenses while I was down, plus I paid cash for my current Venture. Ordered it from my rented hospital bed. I'm still with Progressive. They came through. And my payment has gone down every year in spite of the large payoff. I don't want anything to do with cheap insurance.
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Check this out. Google moved the s from the end to the middle and got that.
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Nope. Wrong system format. There's a short discussion of the Venture audio system here.