Bummer
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Everything posted by Bummer
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I went with a single Firefly on the left. It handles both CB and FM. I like the single antenna look, plus it's a bit more efficient. Instructions are in the second gen tech section.
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A couple of years back KillBoy had pics on his site of a couple dressed up like that. It was a multiple series of shots, and they were on the way down. Sweet young thing on the back in a string bikini was gonna need a skin donor in short order. Still kinda hurts just thinking about it. ATGATT, bucket, leather or kevlar, gloves, and boots. Irene too. I like me. I like her too.
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Hard Bag Holder off bike
Bummer replied to sadicarnot's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Looks like pvc pipe. A dozen 90s and ten Ts, plus a stick or two should do the trick. Maybe some rubber pipe insulation or hose to cover the parts the bags sit on. $20 or so at your local home improvement store. -
Are all the rubbers support/spacers still there? I've had to replace two. The part that goes through the seat pan broke.
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Welcome back! Great pics. Looks like a good ride. That's quite a time warp going into Massachusetts. 242 years and it didn't seem to bother you guys all that much. Back out in Rhode Island. Impressive.
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What are the dates on your new tyres? (Just keeping track of the details.) I still prefer the feel of Venoms over the E3s. The E3s seem to follow snakes, seams, and cracks more than the Venoms did. I plan to switch back next time around if the sidewall cracking problem hasn't shown up in a while.
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How do you know? Not disagreeing, mind you, just wondering.
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Well, you can plug into the jack in the cassette deck, or you can open up the fairing and add a splitter to the jack that's on the brake side, lost among the audio plugs. It looks like a standard male and female headphone jack set plugged together. Then you can run the wire about anywhere you want. I ran mine to the trunk, where I also ran a power wire. I have a Kuryakin switch box behind the audio head (required a 1" plate to move the audio head for clearance) with the player power on the middle switch. I use a hard drive based player. I have a bunch of very long playlists that I've set up on my home computer. I plug the player in, turn it on, select a playlist, lock the buttons, then simply drop the player into the mesh pouch in the trunk. It'll just play all day with power supplied by the bike. I've had no problems with the hard drive. The player is loose in the pouch so the vibrations aren't sharp, and it's vertical, which puts pretty much all the shocks in the same plane the pickup arm moves in anyway, so the head doesn't whack the platters. It's worked great for a lot of miles.
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I read the title about "pain in the A**", then saw "I wish I had small hands." I almost quit reading right there. Can't say how glad I am it was about the headlight.
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Have a great trip, and stay safe!
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Is the shop tach an inductance tach? Reason I ask: I have an inductance tach that will not give reliable readings on my bike. Twice now I've gotten accurate readings out of it. Most of the time it dances all over the place and will not even begin to track the engine speed. It's currently in an intermediate phase waiting for me to either figure out what's wrong or toss it in the circular file. I have a tach (as mentioned above) wired directly to the coil that works just fine.
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Congratulations Annie! Another step in the right direction!
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I got a Baron's mini-tach with reservoir mount and put it on the front brake reservoir. No splicing, it came with piggyback connectors. One wire goes to the signal wire on a coil, two are hooked together and go to the coil's power wire, ground to any reasonable ground point. The one I got has a multi-color display. It has a button to cycle through the colors. I usually leave it on red because that's what it starts out on. The multicolor tach has a box that I believe controls the LEDs. This is pretty much the same, but without the seven color lighting. I just put a 3" Baron's bullet tach on Lilsis' new-to-her '97 RSTC. The little chrome box was not used. Direct connect to same the coil lugs. I grounded to one of the coil base bolt.
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This is on an RS Venture, not a TD. I ride 5 in the front with a crossover to balance them. This way the shocks won't bottom out in an emergency stop. For the rear I add up the total weight added to the bike including junk in the bags/trunk then lop off the right number. Me 210, junk 25, added chrome 15 = 250. Lop off the right number and put about 25 psi in the shock. Two up with everything full, I put it close to the top at 50 to 55. Then when I get home from a trip I forget to lower the pressure in the rear, so I usually wind up running 50 to 55 all the time, which gives me a firmer ride. From the RS Venture user manual - Max front: 7.1 psi, Max rear: 57 psi. I'm not sure if the TD user manual lists it differently. Small book in trunk, pages 3-17 and 3-18.
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So Charlie, how'd you get that g to fold over without looking folded over?
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Thanks. Glad to.
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Yeah, it was kind of low and short. At first I just thought it was one of us. Then I thought: Why? We had just gone by a house on a hill close on the left. I figure somebody out in the serious sticks sits around looking out the window and talking on a scanning base station. I didn't work it all out until we were well down the road. Thanks. It's definitely a subject that grows on you. Eventually I'll probably go through the pics and do some cropping. All I did for now is shrink them to a usable size. I have a pretty good camera - Pentax K20D, set to RAW+ so every shot yields a 20 meg RAW pic and an 8 or 10 meg jpeg. I used the jpgs for the site, and will do the serious post processing on the RAWs. I set the camera to "green" settings and let Irene sit on the back and click away as long as she wants. She keeps getting better as she learns the camera.
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Of course they did. They were matched to the audio output of the amplifier. You've added speakers that can handle much more power but do not move as easily. Until you add a booster amplifier you're not going to realize the benefit of the more powerful speakers. This happens throughout audio. Imagine you buy a $250 Realistic system from Radio Shack, then when you have some bucks you add on a set of $5000 speakers. You're disappointed. They sound like crap. Why? Because the guy who suggested you buy 'em has his hooked up to a Phase Linear pre-amp and a Carver cube that can drive the bigger speakers. His sounds sweet, even though the hardware is getting a bit dated. You need a booster amp like the one I mentioned in my previous post. It's not big, in terms of physical size, output, or price. Still, without it, or something like it, you've wasted your money on the speakers. Click on that link and ask 920Shrek1 how his turned out. The baffles KeithR mentioned are a very good idea too.
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Sorry I can't help with wire colors, but I'd like to point out that the Polks handle more power so you'll need to add some kind of booster amp to get the best results from the change. There's a thread here about a nice little amp that should do the job. I still haven't gotten to it, but it's still on the list.
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Dennis, Joe, and Bill, we're glad you enjoyed the pictures. After I get the video added I'll go back and add captions. Feel free to check out my site any time. Most of it is VR.o events. Irene does like the barns. I used to tease her, but I've found I like barns too. They have a lot of character. There are routes featuring the ones that have quilt squares painted on them. Irene was looking them up online, so I have a feeling we'll be planning something eventually. Joe, no problem buddy, I can take the teasing as long as the route's interesting. Did you catch the voice on the CB that said "You boys have some pretty bikes."? About that time I thought I was hearing banjo music. There was no slowing down from there until we got out from under the leaf canopy. I sent you a Google map of the route in one of the first PMs I sent about the weekend. If you already deleted it let me know. I tend to keep maps, and the next time we go to the Lexington area there's a really good chance we'll go that way again. Bill and Marilyn, it was nice meeting you. We hope you get to do that BRP ride. It's a nice place to visit on a bike. We can't thank Dennis and Valerie enough for hosting the event and giving us a chance to not only ride through a beautiful area, but meet a lot of new and wonderful people, while renewing old friendships.
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Joe summed it up pretty well. Have a great trip!
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I just got done with the photos. You guys can check them out here. Videos are next.
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Nope. It's the stuff Harlay Fan Boys' dreams are made of. Nothing more.
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I'm not all that impressed with JD Power surveys. Their reports on satisfaction with computer support have been skewed. Knowledgeable people with serious unresolved issues tend to get out voted by weenies with easy to resolve Windows function issues. Not sure how this will translate to helmet satisfaction, but I'm suspicious of anything they say. FWIW I have an HJC FS-15 Carbon and love it. Light weight and comfortable. Not cheap but worth the expense. I won't hesitate to buy another HJC full face carbon when I need another helmet.
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Repacking steering and swingarm bearings
Bummer replied to aspen60's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The swing arm bearings aren't as bad as the book makes it sound. Pick the bike up and pull the wheel. I let it set on my Carbon One stand. This is one of the times those legs come in real handy. Remove the pumpkin with drive shaft. The speed sensor's wire just pulls out of its hooked keepers, then slips back in when you're done. I loosened the bolts on the brake line clamps and left the clamps in place. The brake line doesn't have to be removed from the bike, just disconnected from the swing arm. The shock has to come out, but the rest can just dangle. The chrome caps have to come off of the ends where the swing arm bolts live. To gain adequate access you need to unbolt the exhaust pipe Y from the head, loosen the bolts that connect it to the front pipe, and swing it out. I didn't remove mine, but it wouldn't have been much more work. Both sides must be done. Be sure to take the battery area side covers off to make this easier. The left side bolt, and the nut on the right, are under 72 lb/ft torque. I used an impact to get them off, mostly because I have one. 1 3/16" socket, I believe. Pull the bolts and the swing arm comes out to the rear. It takes a bit of diagonal jostling to get it out, then back in. Nothing particularly severe. I popped the seals out with a screwdriver. It caused a little distortion to the flat outer surface of the seal, but didn't distort the part that actually seals on the metal sleeves. A little tap with a ball peen when putting them back in flattened the slight bump back out. I've done it twice with the same seals. I'll probably replace them next time, mostly just because. The bearings are caged rollers and pop right out. Clean 'em up and re-grease. I used way too much Moly60. (I always use plenty - it's not really that expensive and I don't mind using most of a tube on the combined headset/swingarm job.) Make sure to press grease into the gaps at the ends of the bearings so it'll be inside, not just on the surface. When you put it all back together, pull the rubber boot off of the engine, where it stayed, and put it on the swing arm. It's much easier to put the boot on the engine with the swing arm on, than it is to get it onto the swing arm once it's in place. Torque the left side bolt first. Pay special attention to the right side bolt/nut combo. Do NOT put the nut on until you have the bolt torqued. It uses an allen and only takes around 5.5 lb/ft of torque. The nut goes on and is torqued last. Be sure to lube the u-joint and drive shaft spline. Pop the shaft out of the pumpkin and lube that end too. Give the pumpkin to wheel splines a good wipe and some fresh lube too. If it's been a while, pull the center of the wheel and lube the pins too. Takes most of a day, working alone. Oh, and when you're trying to tighten the headset bearings, don't forget to loosen the allen bolts that clamp the top of the tree to the fork tubes. The nuts won't actually tighten unless you do. I have an allen wrench I cut off short, just for this. That way I don't have to move the fairing.