Bummer
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Everything posted by Bummer
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The guy with the stitches in his forehead. Just guessing. (You'll shoot your eye out... oh wait...)
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Don't tell me you're a proponent of Intelligent Falling!
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If you're patient sooner or later they'll fall off on their own. I've lost three so far, and I thought I'd tightened them adequately.
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No doubt about that. It does tend to illustrate that whole Bell Curve thing. One guy is from Saudi Arabia and spews pages of gibberish about how the Qur'an has every answer to every question. People point how how and why he's wrong, and he just spouts the same thing over again until it drives people a little crazy. Sad, really. He even went so far as to collect his comments and selected responses, edit them, then publish them on Scribd. He presents it as the hatred of non-muslims toward the poor peaceful muslim believer. On the other hand, several of the larger Evolution threads have a group of science junkies, including an archaeologist, a physicist, and a mathematics professor. Those guys post links that are an fantastic. I seldom posted. Mostly I just read the science links. The real point to my post, however, was that if one wants an argument fix, that's a fine place to get it. There's certainly no shortage of arguments.
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Got a proposition for all of you VR folks....
Bummer replied to mini-muffin's topic in Watering Hole
So who's taking the donations? -
No problem. You're not the first. Probably won't be the last. We all have to work at it from time to time. If you get to feeling like arguing politics or religion you might give Topix a try. Not a lot of restrictions. Of course, you'll find that there are folks there who actually studied polysci, theology, and/or science, and you might wind up getting spanked. e.g. Don't go into an Evolution discussion and say "it's only a theory". British kittens will die. On the other hand there are real live scientists there and one can learn a lot if one is so disposed. Glad to have you here.
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Adding to the comment on square cut gears: Did you by chance come to the Venture from a twin? Most folks who did tend to run the Venture's V-four a good bit low in it's operating range. Mine has a little bit of gear noise between 2500 and 3000 rpms. Stock, these engines will happily rev over 6k. Add a Dyna3000 and it's over 7k. Mine's currently set to max out at 7250. It'll pull strong to 7, no problem. Aside from first gear, I like to keep the revs up over 3k. Runs like crazy (I was going to say "a scalded dog" but figured that might get me in trouble, so I won't. ) and there's almost no gear noise. Any chance you just need to turn it up? As to oil, I've been using synthetic since about the third oil change. I wound up changing to Yamaha's full synthetic when the local Yamaha shop said they didn't carry the old dyno stuff anymore. Basically they recommended the synthetic.
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Just a nasty rumor I've heard.
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Wouldn't have been a political thread, would it? (Just guessing. Those are prone to disappear. You know, rules and all that.)
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Squidley, er, I mean Cupcake has written posts about installing the round vents. The vent used by Clearview is a Honda vent. They sell it for $59, but that's with a windshield. I don't really know how they price it without the shield. If you look it up as parts online it'll add up to from $45 to $57, depending on where you're looking. I've never cut the hole for it. I have, however, replaced a broken one. The curve on the vent is not the same as the curve on the windshield, so it takes some patient massaging to get it in. Aside from the curve, you have to put the grille part on from the front and then put the body of the vent into a notch on the grille, from the back. Two bolts with washers, grommets, and nuts hold it together. I had quite a time trying to get it all together with the shield on the bike. I finally took it off and held the shield under my left arm with one side against my right thigh an the other under my left armpit. I then shoved the grille in place with my left hand and put the visor into the slot with the right hand. I kind of straightened out the shield a little as I bent the grille. It also took a little judiciously applied french.
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Congratulations on making it back home. That's gotta feel good even if the toilet does automatically put the lid down now.
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On display at the MotoGP last year.
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Didn't think so. Offer still stands. We can do individually timed distance. The point is to prove your incredible contention of better handling. I only know of one way to do that: directly compare handling. Missed the point about peg scraping, eh? If they all sit lower in turns due to sidewall flex when leaned over, they'll all scrape sooner. This is proof of poor design for use, not high performance operation. That would seem to be a point against your "better handling" argument. If the product were actually better you might have something to talk about. You've turned your back on an opportunity to prove your product of choice is better in some manner other than cost. You miss the point entirely. It does not make me feel better to think that you are endangering yourself and those around you. In fact, it troubles me greatly. I'm also troubled by those you've drawn into this. You are the one who keeps talking about lower cost and greater mileage, which equates to lower cost. I acknowledge your positive point: they're cheap. That's one for you. I've challenged your argument that they're better handling, but you choose to pass on that one. As far as I'm concerned, that's one for me.
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Did some research. Turns out that high performance car tires are quite soft while high mileage car tires are much harder. The Dunlop E3 is a multi-compound with both harder and softer compounds. It would appear that this one is rather uncertain. As such I withdraw that statement pending further unbiased data. I do not consider it to be directly relevant to my primary comment, but more of a somewhat flippant side comment. Sorry, I should have stuck to my primary point.
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I don't need to fling male meadow muffins myself to know when one's being flung. I also don't need to talk people into doing something foolish to help me justify my own foolish actions. In fact, there are a lot of foolish things I've never done. Shoot myself in the head, step out in front of a moving city bus, park on railroad crossings, replace my motorcycle tire with a cheap-o car tire, all come to mind as examples. I'm not interested in being suckered in by fallacious arguments. You're the one making a patently preposterous claim. You didn't say you could get by on a car tire. Had you limited it to that I'd never have added a comment. You said it handled better than a motorcycle tire. I'm calling "male meadow muffin". There's no issue of my credibility. I'm the cynic; the doubter. The question of credibility lies with you, who've made an incredible claim. That's how it works. Let's find out. 135 north from 58 to 46. One of the twistiest roads in Indiana. Any time you're up for it. Thursday after Potato Creek works for me. Or tomorrow. Or this weekend... The gauntlet lies before you. Gibvel, a couple more: 1 - car tires are made of harder compounds. That's why they wear longer. That's also why the have less grip. 2 - car tires' sidewalls are made to flex to help keep the flat part of the tire on the ground during a hard turn. That means they will flex during cornering if misused on a motorcycle, which explains why these guys brag of scraping peg. They're closer to the ground due to tire flex, why wouldn't they? I've finally scraped peg. It took 60+ mph on a 25 mph exit ramp running links and Dunlop E3s with the rear shock pumped to 55 for stiffness. In case there's any doubt, I don't care what tires others use, I'm just weary of seeing that "better handling" claim. Particularly when it's backed up with absolutely nothing but bluster.
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I have Progressive and I am quite happy with them. I'm of the opinion that cheap insurance is not a bargain. Here's why: In '05 I was run over by an uninvited visitor from the very, very south. No license, no insurance, no green card, no habla, no stick around. He moved into the oncoming turn lane, then used the same maneuver to move into my lane. I got t-boned by a left turner after I had cleared the intersection. I tried an emergency lane change when I saw his wheel begin across the double yellows, which is probably why I'm still around. He got me at a 45 degree angle, rather than head-on. He stopped in the intersection for a moment - never did roll down the tinted window of the Neon he was driving. It had the lock ripped out and was used freely by a group of uninvited visitors. Apparently it wasn't actually registered to anybody real. After a forty minute car chase he was cuffed and stuffed. After the local Prosecutor, who apparently needed discount lawn care, plea bargained most of the charges away, they let him off with 90 days. Progressive paid off the bike and gave me a modest check for the balance. I'd had my shiny new '05 RSMV about six months (just ready to roll over 10k that week) and was well on the way to paying it off. I only got back about a third of my down payment, but the numbers were exactly in line with the values at the time. I was out of work for a year, between rebuilding the crushed leg, a bone graft, and all the therapy. Medical cost to keep me alive and rebuild my leg: $150,000 +. At one point I even had to take Lovenox at $1000 a shot. Total outlay by insurance companies: $250,000 +. It wound up split pretty evenly between Progressive and my health insurance. I had max PIP and Uninsured/Underinsured through Progressive. I got my insurance online and at first felt that I'd probably bought too much. I had good health insurance through my work. My health insurance was quite insistent that Progressive pay off completely before they'd pick up anything. By the time it was over I was glad I'd gotten as much insurance as I had. I was very glad I had the Un/Under. I was put on Workman's Comp, which doesn't pay particularly well. The check the Progressive agent brought me not only kept us going for that year, but allowed me to pay cash for my replacement '06 RSV. Today I'm still with Progressive. They didn't raise my rates. In fact, in spite of the $150,000 +- they paid out, my payment went down a little while my coverage went up. I'm still maxed out on PIP, and Un/Under. Is it cheap? Nope. I pay about a grand a year. Is it better than owing a hospital a ton of money, losing my vehicles and home, and living on welfare for a year? Yep. I fully intend to do it again next year.
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This is where you lose all credibility. Perhaps you should just stop at cheap.
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I wish you the very best of luck, David. This stuff is about half to a third the size of our smallest turbine air control lines. (Stationary Engineer, forty years. I do everything in the Power House but the electrical generation end.)
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Yes. I found that 0 dove pretty badly. 5 keeps it from hammering the front end in power stops.
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What is the expected clutch life?
Bummer replied to Midrsv's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Oh man, that caveman guy's gonna have a snit if he sees that. They seem to be a sensitive lot. The clutch job is pretty easy. You don't need to remove the oil, just leave it on the side stand. Remove the cover. Take out the bolts. Remove the parts keeping them together, in order, and facing the way they came out. (The world won't end if you mix and match, but everyone says to keep 'em in order, so...) Remove the wire and the half disk set at the bottom of the basket and put those parts somewhere to get old enough to throw away. Soak the new friction plate in some of the oil you use for the engine. Scratch up the metal disks with sandpaper on a flat surface, then clean them well. Put it all back in order using the new friction plate. MATCH THE NOTCHES TO THE DOTS. Be careful about tightening the bolts. They don't take much torque and can break easily if you go all caveman on 'em. (woops) Put the cover back with the new gasket. It's a couple of hour job if you take your time. There's a write up here. Just remember that the dots on the basket wind up where they wind up. That part turns. You can also get the shop manual here to use as reference. -
As of about three weeks ago, when I wrote and asked, Progressive isn't currently carrying the pumps themselves, but if you look enough you might be able to find someone with one of the 0-15 psi pumps. It looks like a very large syringe with a gauge and about six inches of tubing. It's the most accurate way to put air in the fronts I've found yet. The crossover is great too! If you get one treat the little plastic fittings like gold. I haven't found anyplace yet that can replace those parts.
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Need a hard line power for I-pod Nano
Bummer replied to Sylvester's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I use an iAUDIO hard drive based music player. I got a charger for it that's designed to plug into the lighter in a car. I cut off the cylindrical plug-in part, since it was mostly air with two wires running through it, then wired it to the fuse block I put behind the battery. The little rectangular box that the charger became when I cut off the lighter snout lives under there too. Since it's out of sight under the seat I used a couple of wraps of electrical tape to close up the hole left from trimming up the box. I ran the power wire into the trunk through the hole for the CD changer wiring, along with the audio wire from the splitter inside the fairing. Both of those wires plug into an adapter that plugs into the bottom of the iAUDIO. It gets turned on then tossed into the mesh pouch to just play all day. When we run out of stuff to listen to on the radio I tune to AUX. I chose to set it up to run from the mesh pouch because it's hard drive based. It's not hard mounted and it's vertical, so vibration and shocks don't kill the hard drive. Since there's no way to control it in the trunk, I have set up a number of very long play lists and pick one of these at the beginning the day. I have a Kuryakyn switch box on the clutch master cylinder (had to make a little 1 x 1 1/2 inch adapter plate to move the audio pod out a bit for clearance) and use one of the switches to turn the charger on and off. I've used it this way for over four years. -
I think, though I could be wrong, that V7Goose had problems with the clear coat. I purchased a pint of their Black Cherry (very dark red metallic #2) for my trunk spoiler and Wagner Grille. Looks like a perfect match to me. The folks who painted them supplied the thinning agent and clear coat. I've not noticed any color change at all. Of course, that's on a dark color where yellowing might not be as noticeable.
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That's how I've done it. I make the RIAA people find 'em. Then YouTube only limits the countries they can be viewed in. If a country doesn't have such restrictive copyright laws the videos are still viewable to the folks there. Eventually I'll cut the audio out of them and repost. By the way, I'm looking for a mount that'll hook the camera to the main framework of the bike. I have a RAM mount on the handlebars, and don't really like it all that much. It shows every little motion of the bars when I start and stop. I had no idea I did that much correcting at slow speeds.
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Fun video. There's a HD Hero on my list to replace my Samsung sport cam. I embed my videos on my web site. I lost a whole season trying to learn to edit with professional level software. Eventually... One thing to watch out for on YouTube: you can't legally record off of the stereo unless you made the music yourself. A couple of my videos are no longer available because I recorded what was on the stereo, and the copyright owners complained. Any more I leave the bike audio on headphones and the videos just get engine and wind noise. I can't imagine that someone is going to listen to my video rather than buy a copy of an album, but that's the way the law, and the music industry that's paid perfectly good money to own the people who make the laws, want it.