LASER917
-
Posts
12 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Or you can go to Radio Shack and get a 7805A 5 VDC regulator IC. 1 leg goes to 12 VDC, one to ground and the other is 5 VDC out. Priced at around $2.00
-
Looking for a left side saddle bag lid, or lid hardware. I got to work last friday and noticed my lid was gone. The terminal ends that were krimped to the lanyards was there, but the lid was gone with the lanyards. I guess they do not hold very well at 80. Thanks
-
Does anyone know the pinout of the DIN connector on the factory CB for an 87. Thanks
-
One thing that I did before I delinked my brakes, was swap the hydrolic lines at the calipers at each brake change. This keeped the wear on the rotors about equal.
-
I have early model Goldwing speakers on mine, They look like they were made for the Venture.
-
Carb designs
LASER917 replied to ctraylor's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
How about a 2 barrel Holley Projection Electronic fuel injection system (throttle body) with O2 sensor. I think that would be trick. -
Wizard. I have had my electronic gauges for 2 yrs now and so far still working great. They do travel in my saddle bag on my longer trips, but normaly live in my toolbox. I have the Twin Max.
-
I have/use the electronic guage. It has 2 ports. One goes to the reference cylinder the other to the the one being adjusted. On the adjustment port I have 2 aquarium air pump manifolds with 3 valves each. This way I can turn on or off whatever cylinder I wish to adjust. I have the 6 valves because I adjust some of my friends Honda wings and Valcs. This way you are always adjusting the carbs to the reference cylinder (#2 on our bikes), not 1 to 2, then 3 to 4, then 3/4 to 1/2. Works great for me. The gauge is like a MAP (manifold absolute pressure ) sensor on a car. The reference pulls a vacume on one side of the sensor and the adjustment port pulls on the other, the needle (or LED,s depending on make) shows the differance between the 2. This type of guage is for syncing carbs only. It is not, and does not give you a vacume reading, only the difference in vacume between 2 carbs.
-
I'm sooo confused:confused24: . Isn't the bolt that the stainless bolt is replacing made of steel, that was screwed into aluminum. Are some of you saying that a stainless bolt is more prone to corrosion than the steel bolt its replacing? and that a chrome plated bolt is less prone. I've been using stainless bolts for some time on cars, boats and bikes with no problems. I've found that chrome plated bolts have a tendency for the plating to crack on the corners of the flats when torqued, this allows water in and allow rust to start. Polished stainless won't do this. I use locktite thread locker on bolts that I do not plan on removing anytime soon (foot pegs), and anti seize on anything that is removed on a regular basis. (brake and clutch reservoir covers) and if you use a stainless bolt and nut, you better use anti seize. Just my 2 pennys worth
-
I'm bad with names but, someone at Micky D's was needing something to clean thier connectors with. We talked about Caig Labs DeoxIT D100L. I believe Fry's sells Caig probucts. If not you can Google Caig DeoxIT and find many places you can buy it. You want the D100L-xx. Where xx is the type of dispencer it comes in. I get the bottle with brush applicator (-2DB). This is a very good contact cleaner conditioner, and is MIL SPEC.
-
There is a person on Ebay selling rebuild kits for around $50.
-
I have had this changer for about 3 years now. I have changed tires for many of my friends and have yet to remove a disc. I've done Wings, Valks, Voyagers, Cavalcades, KZ's, Beamers and of course Yama's. Works great.