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5bikes

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  1. 5bikes
    They ALWAYS screw up the carburation. Contrary to public OPINION, the engine runs too rich, not lean. This is 5 other bikes (not mine) I've tuned. Personally I wouldn't have or buy a bike with loud exhaust, until they are retuned they LOSE power and gas mileage. Had a friend put the stock exhaust back on his bike. It now runs faster, better gas mileage, doesn't backfire and he does not have to ride in the back of the group anymore!
  2. 5bikes
    Here in Tx it's a triple wammy. Fine and court costs, DPS fines for 3 years (points), then your insurance goes up. Or get a lawyer. I got 3 at one time 2 years ago. Got a lawyer. Total costs could have been over a thousand. At $400 now.
  3. 5bikes
    We don't stop here in the southwest. Will be over 22k on my 5 bikes. I rarely drive the cage.
  4. 5bikes
    But the engine speed would be about 1.5% slower. Not much. 71H=761Lbs. capacity. the 750# bike divided by 2 = 375# plus passengers of 380# =755. I'm thinking more than 1/2 of the bike is on the rear tire so we are are probably over loaded. Without carrying anything. Maybe this is why there are tire problems on some types. Metzlers coming apart, Bridgestones ?, Dunlops 404's with low miles of wear Has anyone had issues with being right at the load capacity? Actually how wide are 150's?
  5. 5bikes
    My present tire is 148mm plus 5mm clearance still would be 153mm. Any one got a 150/90-16 that could be measured?
  6. 5bikes
    My 84 Venture Std. has this rear tire: 140/90-16 Michelin Hi-Tour A66, that came with the bike when I bought it last summer. It is a 71H. The wife and I are at maximum load without any "Stuff" in the bags. This tire is actually 148mm wide inflated. There is still more than 5 mm or .2" between the tire and the drive shaft housing. Any one tried a 150/90-16 rear? 1. It would have a higher load rating. 2. It theorically would be .4" wider (but mine is already 8mm or .3" wider), the speedometer would be 1.5 slower (more accurate) due to larger diameter .7" and circumference 2.2". (Plenty of room) On the front I could not use a larger tire. The fender is very close to the tire. But 65H is not overloaded.
  7. 5bikes
    Remove forks from the triple tree. Put a new fork seals on top of the old ones. Use super glue around the outside edge to hold them in place. Glue top wiper (dust seat) to new fork seal. OLd leaking seal lubricates new seal. New seal takes very little pressure lasting 50+k miles (10 years?) or longer.
  8. 5bikes
    Easy! Do a spark plug check. White tip= lean Gray or light brown about right Black = rich If you have carbs, See my Posting, "improving gas mileage" in 1st Gen Tech talk.
  9. 5bikes
    I've improved gas mileage now on about 12 bikes. This works especially if you are under 40 mpg. I'm consistantly getting mid to high 40's on all my 1100-1200's. Easy 1-2 Hour job 1. Remove the carb cap, 4 screws. 2. Remove the spring. 3. Remove carb slide and diaphram, it's black with a needle hanging out the back. 4. Remove the jet needle, there's a large screw inside the middle of the carb slide holding it in. 5. There is a white spacer under a circle clip. Remove it. 6. Replace the white spacer with any small washers about 1/2 the thickness of the white spacer under the circle clip. 7. Ignore the fact that the white spacer has a small tit on one side. 8. You may want to add extra washers on top of the circle clip. (I didn't on my Venture and a friends) 9. Put it all back together in the same order it came apart. New washers, jet needle with circle clip tight (check it), 1 or more washers on top of circle clip, small spring, plastic screw, in that order. 10. Carefully reinstall slide and diaphram. Notice diaphram has a tap. 10. Do only one carb at a time. (Can use others as reference) 11. Go for a ride checking gas mileage and performance. My friends 87 Std. went from 37 to 45 mpg. 12. Clean and check spark plugs before and after. Correct color is gray, tan or clean depending on type of gas used. Slightly white electrodes is Ok if the plug base near threads is darker. white base and tip is too lean; black is too rich. 13. SO: Add washers under circle clip to richen, remove washers to lean. 14. My bike is faster now lean (hotter combustion) 15. I set pilot jet screws to 1 3/4 turns out 16. All 4 Ventures were way out of synch before I did them. Much smoother now. Questions? Send me a PM or email: chuckfrench48@gmail.com (mention VR)
  10. 5bikes
    All of the older vacuum advance cars I worked on were like this: Centrifical advance was engine speed dependent, and independent of vacuum advance. ( My Father was an engineer for GM, Ford and Packard) Faster RPM more centrifical advance. Lower load, high vacuum more advance, opposite true also. Some post 70's did have vacuum retarding and advancing spark but that's not the way the graphs in the VR service manuals suggest. Again any suggestions on how we can get more advance, by getting higher vacuum or lower voltage to the TCI?
  11. 5bikes
    I like the idea of a Dyna 3000 ignition advance if they are not expensive, over $100? Another VR member and I are trying to add the potentiometer to the output of the boost sensor. Nice if it would mount on the handlebars and be adjustable to load. I've have not been succeeded in this yet. If I can make it work I will post here. I would hate to mess up the boost sensor or TCI and have to replace them. Keep thinking we will find a way.
  12. 5bikes
    $250-350 plus shipping !!! OEM AND It's thats only a reflector. Find an alternative. Friend of mine lost his, cried and laughed for days. Part of the trunk so have never seen any on Ebay.
  13. 5bikes
    Not running the bike weekly or at least every other week. Seals dry out eventually (fork then brakes then engine), carbs gum up in as little as 2 weeks, batteries need recharging. Fork oil leaks onto the brake calipers then onto the pads. The idle circuits are very small plugging up first, so it won't idle. Batteries can discharge up to 1% per day. I've rebuilt several bikes including my Venture, guess what I do first: Battery, carbs, fork seals.., then fix all the screw ups previous owners did.
  14. 5bikes
    1. Don't really know 2. Thinks it is ported vacuum, wrong, it's below the carb, has to be manifold vacuum. 3. Curves labeled wrong, as I suspected. At cruise (moderate load) we are getting about 4" vacuum; at idle, very low load, we get about 8"; and on deceleration, no load, we get about 10+" 4"=35 degrees, 10"=45 degrees Reference p. 8-14 of Service manual (pdf) More vacuum = more advance, without going too far (dentonation) we get more free power, mpg and acceleration. I vacuum T'ed off the left 2 cylinders to the "Boost Sensor" but no increase in inches of vacuum occured. Even tried coming off the YICS 1/2" vacuum line to the manifolds did not work. Ok, now how can be get more vacuum (OR more advance)?
  15. 5bikes
    Relooking at the curve on the timing diagram says vacuum. The so called "Boost Sensor" is hooked up to the intake manifold. I put a vacuum gauge on the same fitting under the carb and get 3 to 10 inches of vacuum. The boost sensor can read "positive pressure" too but that would retard the timing according to the diagram in the boost sensor section. So why is the timing diagram labeled backwards?
  16. 5bikes
    Looking at the ignition advance curves for the 1st Gen's in the service manual show high timing advance (15- 48.5 degrees) at low vacuum (1.57 in. Hg). And low advance (5-30 degrees) at high vacuum (9.84 in. Hg). This is opposite of cars. NORMALLY: High vacuum is low load on the engine therefore allowing more ignition advance. ie. cruising along Low vacuum is higher engine load therefore less timing advance is needed. ie. hard acceleration Can anyone explain this? Are the 2 curves mislabeled?
  17. 5bikes
    while the bike is still low mileage (under 20K) do the gear dogs need to be dressed?
  18. 5bikes
    Many are inexpensive and good looking.
  19. 5bikes
    My gauge is accurate, but lacks divisions (gradulations, lines) Normal readings: Before starting, ignition on=about 12 volts Idle rpm=about 12.5 Over 2k rpm 13.5-13.8, just below the only line (14) Too high over 14 Lots of accessories will drop these #'s
  20. 5bikes
    The boost sensor alone can any add 3-7 mpg. It's just like the old vacuum advances on 50-60's cars. If you had pressure (not Vacuum) on it it could retard the spark, giving reduced power. At 2k rpm remove the vacuum line under #2 carb, put your finger over the intake port, rpm should drop about 500 rpm. Put it back on rpm will go back up. It is working. Check restrictor can you blow thru it? After rebuilding/cleaning my carbs (after sitting 5 years) mileage went from 37 to 47 in 500 miles.
  21. 5bikes
    99,600 miles, runs a good as new, my friends are amazed how fast and reliable it is. Got 320,00 total on 24 bikes. Wife and I did 400 yesterday going to McDonald Observatory and returning at 1 am on Venture.
  22. 5bikes

    trailer towing

    5bikes replied to kenw's topic in Watering Hole

    Carry less stuff=more fun. Americans got to take the entire house. Look at all the junk in garages and $40,000 SUV's sitting outside. Wife and I did 2 weeks on a 1000cc without any saddlebags/trunks, camping!
  23. 5bikes
    I've bought/got 2 bikes with old tires about 10 years old. I would be more concerned if I didn't service (proper inflation) and keep my eye on them. Deep cracks, bubbles, wearing abnormally, underinflation, overloading, over speeding, large punctures, etc. are far more important than just the age. First sign of trouble get rid of them
  24. 5bikes
    Bought the Ebay $44 (including shipping) brake pads, reading the descriptions of all for sale. These are semi-hard but not the "HH" hard. Eliminated the stock pads that had gotten brake fluid on them. Then set the anti-dives on the hardest (#4) setting. Braking is much improved at both levers but nowhere as good as more current bikes. I may still eliminate the anti-dives because it they were never really effective. Thanks all for your help.
  25. 5bikes
    In my experience I've had more problems with oxidizing/corrouding wires and spark plug caps than coils. Try cutting a 1/4" off both ends of all spark plug wires and reinserting. And clean up all the 12v terminals. I use brake cleaner.
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