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5bikes

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  1. 5bikes
    Just put a new fork seal on top of the old one cleaned up. Super glue it in around the outside edge. Lasts a lot longer too. Old one takes the punishment and lubricates the new one. Done in half the time!
  2. 5bikes
    Friends got a 92 Virago 1100. It has the updated starter assembly but still has a problem. It does not have the 2 spring clips that fail regularly. The starter intermediate gears that are on a spiral between the flywheel and motor do not return to the home position. These gears are on a pivot with a spring. Please tell me it is not the starter clutch that it $227!!! Any suggestions?
  3. 5bikes
    1984 with 19k miles total, leaks more than it burns. After just 5,000 miles most of the inside of the air box is covered in oil. Then the carbs get soaked inside and out too. 1. Thinking about loosely putting some course steel wool in the breather tube at the multi-purpose chamber between the cylinders. This should seperate the oil from the bypass gases. 2. Then connecting the drain hose in the front of the air box to vaccuum to drain off any oil back to the engine. Any thoughts or other ideas?
  4. 5bikes
    The right handlebar red ignition switch is for safety. It would be much better to learn NOT to touch it anytime except when needed. I had a throttle stick open going down a steep hill last year. That switch saved my ***, big time! I toggled it on and off until I got the the bottom. If you couldn't take your hands off the grips but needed to shut off the engine what would you do, if it wasn't within thumb distance? Rotate the switch up or down around the handlebar so you don't inadvertantly hit it, 2 screws underneath. DO NOT MOVE IT (to a different out of easy reach location)
  5. 5bikes
    Removing the anti-dives is not dangerous, expensive or hard to do on the MK1's. This is not for the anti-dives operated electrically. It does improve braking greatly. Simply remove the brake hose and banjo bolt from the anti-dive. Take this single banjo bolt and use it at the caliper where the double bajo bolt was. Rebleed brakes. Leave the antidive in place but plug the hole where the banjo bolt was. Done! I've done it on 2 bikes. I can stop the bike now with just the front hand brake lever, where before both brake levers felt spongy and ineffective. Oh, you won't even notice the the difference because the anti-dive were mostly ineffective in 90% of your braking. Why do you think bikes don't come with them now? It was a marketing ploy.
  6. 5bikes
    High heat, extreme cold and lack of use are the hardest on batteries. I can't help you with the first 2 but for the third simply do this. Install a $7-9 70amp switch between the battery negative and ground. I get mine at Pepboys but any good auto supply should have them. This will reduce the discharge rate because rectifier diodes, clocks and some TCI's (computers, ignitions) still pull power even with the ignition switch off. Putting the switch on the negative side relieves the switch of the high amperage loads at start ups but still breaks the circuit. You should still recharge the battery before starting, if it has not been run is several weeks. Buy the way, my "cheapest" I can find batteries usually last 5 years (in this desert heat).
  7. 5bikes
    I put in the cheapest batteries I can buy. I'm in a high heat environment, hardest on batteries. Just install a $7-8 (any good auto supply) 70amp switch on the negative side of the battery so it disconnects to ground. I get 3 years minimum to 5 years out of all my batteries. Shut off the power as soon as you put bike away.
  8. 5bikes
    Bought my 84 Venture Std in June. A friend who bought one of my Suzuki GSX1100's a year ago bought his 88 Venture Std. in August. We let another friend ride our Ventures and now he has a 88 Royale. I obviously have 5 bikes, 1st friend now has 3 and the 2nd friend has 7! Both friends have VTX1800's too. (They think I should have one too) All 3 Ventures were not running when bought, but they are NOW! I've never had a bike (24 so far) that I've put so many miles on so fast and comfortably.
  9. 5bikes
    Last time out I had to quickly brake. As usual the first 50' there was almost no braking. So I.... Eliminated the anti-dives on my 84 Venture Std. "I've got twice the stopping power." It used to bottom out anyways with the anti-dives. Both levers are not spongy anymore. Brakes almost lock up now. Looking for braided brake lines. I did this before on a 82 Suzuki 1100, same result. Cost=0, Improvement=100% (well much better) Use the single banjo bolt from the anti-dive units to get rid of the brake line to them. Then rebleed.
  10. 5bikes
    All 3 have the LCD "N" go out very soon after shifting to nuetral but the green "Nuetral" light works. We're just not worrying about it and it does not effect any bike or other electrical functions. Sometimes my LCD "N" does stay on...
  11. 5bikes
    Jack can you give us more info. Thanks Chuck
  12. 5bikes
    Had 16 GM cars since 1977. They progressively got worse. The last & I do mean last, was a 02 Cadillac Deville. It had 33 problems in 4.5 years and we lost $35,000. Got a Honda Accord 2 years ago and still have not taken it in for anything. (American built by the way)
  13. 5bikes
    Bleed the 2 systems, check for sticking pistons, do the rotors need resurfacing, are the pads worn or oil soaked, are any hoses leaking or soft? My friends 88's are very good.
  14. 5bikes
    I just happened to look back in the right outside mirror to catch 2 crotch rockets going 40-50 mph on the right of everyone in the 2-3 feet of the right lane. If I had not looked back I would have for sure caught the first one and the 2nd one would have plowed into the first. The car immediately behind me almost hit me because I hesitated until both went by. Had 3 passengers in the car, needless to say we all almost **** in our pants. Beat that one!
  15. 5bikes
    I had it laying around for years. NOS. They used to be under $20. Bought it when my crappy GM starters (with internal solenoids) got hot, no start. Finally got a starter that would start hot. Don't know why I put up with GM and Fords so long. Accord is 2 years old and NEVER been in the shop.
  16. 5bikes
    I checked the timing with a timing light. What a pain! The Spark plugs are recessed so I had to insulate all wires. Then oil is thrown out of the plug hole for visually checking the crank shaft marks as the engine is running. The TCI does advance the spark as RPMs go up. My base timing has correct at 1000 rpm. Over 1000 rpm the Boost sensor does increase timing advance but as vacuum goes up it does NOT advance anymore. Like I said before the Sensor is just a On-OFF switch telling the TCI you have vacuum. Changes in load/vacuum do nothing (voltages of 1.9-.6). Go look at the graphs again there is only 2 lines, with vacuum and very low vacuum (probably below the 2.0 volt threshold). I'm sure these engines will accept more timing advance BUT HOW?
  17. 5bikes
    I replaced my friends '88 starter solenoid with the old style Ford remote starter relay for car engines pulling about 200 amps. It should never go out on him again. Cheap too any auto supply. Just not much room on left side of battery. New ones from Yamaha are $52. yikes!
  18. 5bikes
    1. I rarely change the OEM's jet sizes, parts etc. They spent hundreds of hours tuning them close from idle to Full Throttle 2. I just try to modify their settings. At cruising speeds: this effects overall mpg the most, if your under 40 do #3 3. To Lean: make the jet needle LONGER or extend further out of the black slide. 4. To Richen: make the needle shorter or extend further into the black slide. At idle 5. To lean: turn the pilot screw IN (1/2 to 1 turn at a time) 6. To richen: turn the piolt screw OUT Full throttle, if you must: (Almost never have to change this jet). 7. To lean: go down 5 to 10 points from the std. main jet 8. To richen go up 5-10 points from the std. main jet To do # 3 look up posting "Improving Gas Mileage" I did # 3 and 5 only to get to 49 mpg average. mostly at 65 mph. My friends '88 gets 46 mpg. But if your heavy handed on the throttle at every acceleration, drive in the cold. drive 10-30 over the speed limit, drive into headwinds all the time, carry heavy loads your gas mileage will be less BUT not under 40 mpg. Questions? PM me.
  19. 5bikes
    Rereading some of the previous posts. Spark plugs are light brown or tan, correct mixture. Then I try to advance timing. Got to get the mixture correct first. Next advance timing until you get knock then back off a few degrees. This works on all internal combustion engines. I'm not getting any engine knock so I think I can advance timing. Is anyone getting 49 Avg. mpg? Got 55 mpg at 55 mph once when it was in the high 80's. Oh ya, I'm at 4000 ft. elevation, that helps. Next I'm going to try and use a timing light to actually see if timing is advancing with sensor voltage changes and rpm changes (to see if TCI is working).
  20. 5bikes
    Can you try doing as I have, installing the 10k POT and in the Black/Red wire from the Pressure Sensor? The POT is working correctly (as you showed me several weeks ago), it will allow full voltage (2.1) then down to zero. Voltages do drop (from 2.0 to as low as 1.3) on the sensor as load decreases and vacuum/rpm increases. My gas mileage average is 49. If the TCI wasn't working correctly (increasing timing advance) I doubt I could get this good of mileage. But then again, my Venture is no where as throttle responsive as my GSX1100 Suzuki's. I've found ways to advance the base timing before but on these Ventures it's all fixed. I almost always found air to fuel mixture independent of ignition timing, but going too far on either will cause detonation (knock). Doing both at the same time is too confusing. RPM does not increase as the voltage decreases (using the POT). Not sure why. Please try by locking the throttle steady above 1100 rpm then with the POT decrease voltage. Installing the POT will not harm the electonics.
  21. 5bikes
    I've been working on cars and bikes for over 40 years. My father was an automotive engineer, I have a BS in Industrial Engineering. If I felt you or anyone would be hurt, or damage your bike I would not post here, or make any recommendations. Almost every OEM designs engines prior to fuel injection (and EPA) to run rich (cooler) to be on the safe side (liabilities). If these ideas are even somewhat subjective I would have put in a disclaimer "Do AT Your Own Risk" Leaning does many things. Saves you money, saves you gas, improves the environment by polluting less. Also the engine runs cleaner, less carbon in the combustion chamber, fewer spark plug changes, less oil changes, and at start ups less gas washes the oil down the cylinder walls making the engine last longer. My disclaimer is; check your spark plug tips if they are white your too lean now. If the plugs are black your wasting gas (rich). If they are gray or tan your engine is running correctly. BUT if you are getting under 40 mpg at normal highway speeds (55-75) your running rich. Now to my other points: Experiment 1: Went for the 100 mile ride. Set POT to 1.0 volts, Actually 102.3 and 2.1 gallons gas = 48.7 mpg. Steady 65 mph. No improvement. It was cool (high 50's) and 1/2 of the trip had a 10-15 mph headwind, same tailwind returning. Experiment 2: at 1000 rpm or less Boost Sensor is not functioning, output is 2.1 volts. 1100+ rpm (by my bikes tach) and Boost sensor is effective, voltage starts dropping. Experiment 3: Disconnected Vacuum line (& plugged off engine leak) at any RPM, voltage 2.1, engine sluggish. At any RPM above 1000 turning the POT to less than 2.0 volts make RPM go up another 2k! (That's 3000+) (no load) Experiment 4: Turning the voltage any less than say 1.9 down to 0 makes NO changes in RPM. Conclusion 1: The Boost sensor (at least on my bike) is just an ON-OFF switch. Changing the voltage (below 1.9) or increasing the vacuum to the sensor does not effect performance or gas mileage. Do not waste your time doing this. Conclusion 2: I'm thinking a fixed resistor would do the same as a boost sensor. Conclusion 3: Now I know why the engine is not as smooth at idle as it is above 1100+ rpm. Low timing advance. For starting engines they want very little advance (remember the old spark retarders?) BUT: If the Boost Sensor is not working (above 1000 rpm) or putting out 2.0 volts or less, it will effect performance and MPG. Make sure yours is working! Any comments? Mike, you got all this?
  22. 5bikes
    Yes I put my finger over the open vacuum to the engine when I pulled off the vacuum line to the pressure sensor. If you don't the idle rpm is even slower. Engine almost dies because it's really only running on 3 cyl's. About #4 When I had the pilot screws at 2 turns out my low end power was worse. I'm at 1.5 now. But you are right. Cutting off air would richen the mixture. Easy to find out just by turning these easy to get at screws. Today I'm going for a 100 mile ride to check mpg with voltage at 1 to .6 volts (vacuum connected) I also will be disconnecting the vacuum to the sensor and setting the POT to 1.6 to .6 volts to see if RPM will come back up at 1-2,000 rpm. Remember everyone can increase their MPG's by dropping the needles down as I previously posted "Increasing Gas Mileage"
  23. 5bikes
    1. I found a 10k ohm Variable Resistor (POT) works just as well as a 50k. 2. After installing (the hardest part is getting the air cleaner and hoses back on) The voltages were as described above. 2.1v before starting. Then as vacuum went up voltage dropped to as low as 1.3 @ 2500 rpm, no load. 3. Reducing the voltage to as low as .6volts, using the POT did not cause RPM to increase as I expected. Was hoping for more performance and MPG. I'm thinking vacuum changes to the Pressure Senor have very little to do with advancing the timing further, but if the vacuum line is disconnected the rpm drops significantly. RPM changes as programmed by the TCI advance timing more than vacuum changes. 4. I mostly covered up the intake and the RPM went up 1 grand, ??? Even with the pilot jet screws at 1.5 turns I'm thinking they are still too rich. 5. My 84 Venture Std. gets 46-48 mpg at 65 mph 2 up. I maybe at the end of making any more MPG improvements. 6. Today's weather, 35 mph winds. Will go for a ride tomorrow's weather is suppose to be better, checking mpg by turning voltage to about 1-.6 volts.
  24. 5bikes
    I'm about to add a 50k ohm variable resistor (pot) in this circuit (Sensor to TCI) to reduce voltage which should increase ignition timing advance. If I can get voltage down, this will increase performance and gas mileage. If it works I will post. Pot is $2.99 (Radio Shack) vs. $230+ for a Dyna ignition system.
  25. 5bikes
    Email me at chuckfrench48@gmail.com. $20+ shipping. NOS Yamaha Parts
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