Jump to content

5bikes

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    257
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 5bikes

  1. My opinion is too lean pilot jet screws. Open up 1 turn and see if it helps. They are easy to get to by removing the fairing lowers. They are below the carb cap.
  2. Even with my 40+ years experience working on bikes and cars, I still occasionally need help with the idiosyncrasies of an individual vehicle. Take for example I searched for "wander" and found the fix almost immediately. How to check the "Boost Sensor". And many other repairs. I will have to remove the engine to fix 2nd gear and the entire procedure is right here. Thank You All. I had a BMW K1200LT. Their website is formated much like this one but Yamahas are so much more reliable and easy to work on, I see almost no negativity here. Thank you all for your help.
  3. Eliminate the washer and expansion wave spring. Super glue new seals around the outside edge on top of the original seals. Glue the dust wiper on top of the new seal. Faster installation, lasts longer and only about 1/2" higher.
  4. Bled brakes using synthetic Dot 3-4 fluid. They work correctly. EBC HH's wear out discs very fast, too hard. Back to you, has anyone eliminated their anti-dive units?
  5. MK1's. '84 Venture Std. Has anyone removed the brake lines to the anti-dive units? I did this on a '82 Suzuki GS1100 and the braking improved drastically. Right now braking is really vague until much pressure is applied.
  6. 1. Unreliable- 1/2 of systems broke down in 12 months of ownership. 2. Expensive parts and service 3. Few dealers-nearest 275 miles 4. Extreme High center of gravity 5. Hard to work on, ie. 4 hours to change air filter, dry clutches ruined by clutch slave cylinders or seal leaks, 4 day job to repair. 6. Heavy weight 850#'s 7. 2 weeks waiting on parts 8. Incredibily hard to handle under 20 mph. 9. Rear seat for my SO was uncomfortable 10. Poor headlights 11. Large CD player takes up 1/3 of one saddlebag. 12. Final drive failures too high & leaking seals in transmission 13. Took 5k miles to get semi-used to weird handling. 14. High ABS failures. 15. Speedo 10% off, reads too high DO NOT BUY! Don't waste your money!!
  7. Bought at Pepboys. 15 amp. They look like 5 amp, very long and skinny element. Some only last 1 second. Finally wired a circuit breaker where the ignition fuse was. If it pops, just turn off switch and it resets.
  8. It was a dragging brake on the right side. The front wheel/tire was very hard to turn when the weight was off the front. Remove the left caliper first and it was still hard to turn. Removed the right caliper, took out the pads and expanded the pistons with the lever. Only 2 of the 4 moved. Used compressed air (be careful!) to remove pistons, cleaned pistons and cylinders with very fine emery cloth. Reinstalled, rebled system, test ride, noise gone!
  9. Thank you for your help. The ignition fuse also has the Flasher relay, Fan motor relay, Starter switch, and the Pressure Sensor on it. Almost 1/2 of the wiring! Intermittent makes harder to find. Side stand switch kind of makes sense when I stop. I'll just check 1 at a time. I put a curcuit breaker instead of a fuse that resets when the power is shut off.
  10. After sitting 4 years mine leaked from: 1. Gas sending unit on top of tank, rubber seal bad and no rubber washer on loose bolts 2. Cracked fuel hoses every where under tank. Also loose clamps. Replaced everything. 3. Petcock was stuck in open position, after cleaning leaked. Bad o-ring/seal. 4. Rusted tank Put gas in it, then place paper under bike to help find leaks
  11. Just wish I had his money... But I've got 7 bikes at my house right now.
  12. 84 Venture Std. Any one had this problem? Happens alot after I come to a stop after 50-100 miles. Intermittent. Any possible areas to look?
  13. Just sold a unreliable 2000 Beemer. Took 1 hour to remove the fairing and 2 hours to reinstall. The electrical system is under the gas tank under the fairing inside a hardy accessible box. Changing out a Transmission seal was a 4 day project versus 1 hour on a Jap bike. Changing the dry clutch out when the clutch slave cylinder "will leak" onto it, added 1-2 more days. Had to do over 80 projects (hundreds of hours) to get to it semi-reliable enough to get rid of it. Yes I love Jap Engineering (KISS).
  14. All 5 bikes get over 47 mpg at 65-70 mph. If you are in the low 40's and under get it worked on. If carb'ed, lean it out by dropping the jet needles .010-.020" (extends further into main jet/emulsion tube/needle jet). Easy to do, take off the carb cap. Remove the slide and diaphram. Unscrew the needle. Take out the needle and remove the spacer under the circle clip. Replace the spacer with small washer(s) about 1/2 the thickness of the original. Reinstall. Carb's & air cleaner must be clean and synch'ed. Do a spark plug check before and after. Black=rich, brown or gray= about right, white=too lean. Headwinds and speed=drag & kill gas mileage. I do drive conservatively and consistantly. I'm retired, why rush the thing I like doing best?
  15. Installing a new seal on top of the old one. There is plenty of contact surface around the outer OD to apply super glue on the new seal once it is pushed down on top of the old seal. Remove the spring clip and clean all old fork oil off the top of the old seal first. Apply super glue on the bottom of the wiper (dust cover) where it contacts the top of the new seal. They will stay in place and NOT leak. The leaking old seal lubricates the new seal but reduces the pressure on the new seal making it last longer. It will stick up about 1/2" higher than before.
  16. I never remove the old fork seals, I just super glue (around the outside edge) new seals on top of the old ones. The new seal is lubricated by the old one and it takes most of the pressure off the new one. Lasts 50-75k miles and takes 1/2 the time to install. I showed this to a sport biker who did weekly seal replacements, doing wheelies all the time. Now he hasn't replaced his fork seals in a year.
  17. Get a repair kit, new mechanical seal, (Ebay both )and a rear cover gasket first, otherwise the bike will be down 1-2 weeks waiting for these parts. There is not much under the either water pump covers (2). Had mine off 3 times fixing leaks. Bad impellor, bad drive gear, loose gear pin or some foreign object. But I would do it soon. Change the antifreeze at the same time.
  18. Take it off and apply a lot of thick grease. Oil the ball joints often. I rebuilt bikes and noone ever oils or greases anything, wondering why the moving joints are worn or hard to move. DAH.
  19. Ride conservatively. It's not the destination, it's the ride getting there, get there fast and you have to go shopping with the significant other, get my drift? Anything under 70 mpg has less air drag= greater MPG. But most importantly is having the engine tuned correctly. New gas, filters, plugs, oil, clean & synched carbs, and lowered jet needles.
  20. Carefully use engine degreaser, ie. Junk, then wash out with a water hose slightly turned on. Shake out excess water. Air dry. NO compressed air! Reoil using K&N oil only.
  21. How to increase gas mileage and performance: Carbs must be clean. Air filter clean. Take the cover of all 4 carbs, 1 at a time. Remove the diaphram and slide, remove the jet needle under the large screw. Replace the spacer under the circle clip with very small washers. Perhaps 2. You want the needle to be longer, projecting out the bottom of the slide another .010-.020". Make sure the carbs are synched, so they are all pulling the same vacuum. Drive a steady speed, use only regular gas.
  22. Carbs are easy tuned with inexpensive tools. They are reliable if kept clean and used often. They can be tuned for performance or economy for almost nothing. But they can be a pain if gas/air is dirty and/or infrequently used. Fuel injection requires much more expensive tuning equipment. It is more relaible. Can be left unused for weeks/months without maintenance. FI is expensive to repair and most systems can not be done by backyard mechanics. Properly tuned carbs can get the same MPG as FI. Aftermarket loud pipes usually screw up the the mixture. Most bikes go richer, have to be leaned. 4 bikes experience. I can tune carbs for aftermarket pipes but need special equipment to realign the mixture on FI. It just depends on what you want or what you bought. All my bikes get 46+ mpg to 75 mpg and all have carbs. Guess who gets a lot of tuning work?
  23. Lots of talk but no action so far. Cheap insurance...Somebody needs it, and no it's not free....
  24. Hope this is the right place to post. Bought a complete (all parts and instructions intact) OEM Yamaha stator cooling kit off Ebay to install on my 84. Got it apart to find it was already there. Lots cheaper than a new stator and easy to install. 1 hour. $25 + shipping $7 chuckfrench48@gmail.com or 915-594-4083
  25. We don't have much of a winter. 30's at night, 50's late afternoon, it can snow (once a year), gone by noon. Friends & I ride most of the winter. Poor us! But then I suppose I could ride of of my other 4 bikes until I get it back together....
×
×
  • Create New...