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Sideoftheroad

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Everything posted by Sideoftheroad

  1. Sideoftheroad
    Just ordered my ram mount from mfauls on e-bay. Has anyone hardwired a streetpilot 2730? If so, how? Thanks Jerry.
  2. Sideoftheroad
    patents huh. So probably not a good idea to try and copy it or at least don't get caught at it.
  3. Sideoftheroad
    So anyone e-mail him yet? Kinda like the color and the look though. Bags are too small. Is there a trick to ask him a question and have it posted for all to see?
  4. Sideoftheroad
    looks like the seller is mfauls. Looked at all his auctions for my model Streetpilot. It has one of them that is $42 (after shipping cost) or $36 w/ free shipping.
  5. Sideoftheroad
    Little more compared to which other mounts? I checked out the RAM site and seems like the total cost is like $40. To me that is pretty cheap. How secure it is as far as theft goes? Any solutions to theft prevention short of a pit bull, rottweiler (better have a big sidecar lol) or Smith N Wesson? I do understand that if someone wants something they are gonna do what they can to get it. Thanks.
  6. Sideoftheroad
    What mounts do you guys have?
  7. Sideoftheroad
    Didn't get my commission check either when Beau-Kat bought his 1st Gen from local Indiana dealer. Did I mention he lives in SC? Oh well. I know Beau-Kat is enjoying the heck out of it and that's what's important.
  8. Sideoftheroad
    I am trying to reply to a thread w/ a quote and it tells me my message has to be at least 3 characters long. I have about 3 sentences in length.
  9. Sideoftheroad
    How about a VentureRider facebook page so we can have twice as much fun. Once on this forum and once on facebook.
  10. Sideoftheroad
    Went back and wanted to make sure of something. The right turn signal does not light up on the instrument panel but does on the bumper signal. I also noticed that the left signal blinks at a slightly faster rate than the left. Could be something as simple as a burned out bulb, but with all these issues starting to pop up, I doubt it. I think I have a spare I can replace it w/. If not, the left signal does light up so I can swap them to see if the right lights up. If it does, then I know it is the bulb. I took a quick glimpse at it, but I also have the Fisher body manual. It looks like it also has a wiring diagram I can look at.
  11. Sideoftheroad
    Gees. Must have been a pretty nasty fire. Most important thing is it sounds like no one was hurt.
  12. Sideoftheroad
    Had a little time today to try and work on the headlight situation. 1st started by checking fuses and they are all good. I was around town and decided to go to autozone and see how much a new dimmer switch is. It was only $7 so I decided to go ahead and get it. Figured it can be a back up if anything. When I got home, I tried looking for my multimeter. I know where I keep it and it ain't there. I recently had it and can't imagine I put it somewhere other than where I normally keep it, but it's possible I put is somewhere else and can't find it now or maybe one of the rugrats got ahold of it. Not so happy. So pulled the headlight switch towards me 2 clicks. The 1st click just turns on the gauge lights. I have low beams. When I pushed on the dimmer switch to go to high beams, no headlights at all. Put in the new dimmer switch and same thing. One of the members suggested that I use a tester light to the female plugs (3 of them) that plug into the dimmer switch to see if I have power to them. When the headlight switch is all the way in, I do not. When it is pulled out all the way, the tester light lights up for the bottom wire only. Now the question is are all 3 of them supposed to light up. Guessing so since there are 3 wires for some reason. I did look through my manuals and I do have a wiring diagram. It shows the wire that lights up the tester light goes to the light switch. So this should eliminate the light switch as a suspect, correct? The other 2 wires goes to the fuse block. One of the 2 wires only goes to the fuse block. The other wire goes from the fuse block to the instrument panel light bulb for the high beam which does light up when the high beams are supposed to be in use. The high beam connection has 2 wires. One wire we already know the connection. The other wire goes to L. H. Turn. Don't know what the H stands for. The L. H. Turn has 3 wires. One wire we already know the connection. One of the other wires goes straight back to the fuse block and stops. The 3rd wire some other connection. Not sure what it is but I think it is part of the column wiring. The wire from the L. H. Turn splits off to the Traffic Hazard Switch, which works since I accidentally pushed it in several times while trying to get the dimmer switch out. The other split says it goes to the Dir Sig Sw. Guessing Directional Signal Switch. Unfortunately for this wiring diagram that is all that it shows me. Doesn't show me where the directional signal switch goes from there. Looking at the engine compartment wiring diagram, can't make heads or tails as to where the internal compartment wiring for the headlights mates up with the engine compartment wiring. Guessing that is somewhere after the directional signal switch. From looking at the engine wiring diagram it looks like there are only 2 wires that come from the internal compartment and connect to various things like the TCS Solenoid and the TCS relay or a circuit breaker that connects to the horn relay/buzzer.
  13. Sideoftheroad
    No problem Gunny. Didn't take it the wrong way. Can't blame them for saying no at all. With situations like this, I can hope for something as long as I don't hold my breath for it and I didn't in this case. I just hoped that's all. I can say there is another member on this forum that I know. He bought a Garmin via craiglist, guessing a month or 2 after he bought it, it completely went out. He called Garmin and they replaced it for free. Now the difference may be that it was a newer model, but I am sure the warranty was no longer in effect. Seems to me that they stand to make more money by charging to have newer models fixed than the older models in which they have made pretty much all that they are going to make. I haven't gained anything, haven't lost anything and I am liking this GPS so far.
  14. Sideoftheroad
    My friend with Markel Ins. and right now my niece and her fiance w/ State Farm. They drilled her for 3 hours a couple days ago about a break in they had around 3 months ago now and lost approximately 12k. Funny thing her fiance's ex-wife "potentially" had one of the stolen watches. The police has his ex and her brother as their # 1 suspect. She's got motive too. His ex just lost custody of the 3 kids to him and she just happened to turn in the watch to the ins. co. who never bothered to tell the police about it. Seems to me when you don't notify the police on something that has impact on an ongoing investigation that is obstruction. They didn't drill him quite as bad and it was for less time. He had time to prepare by talking to my niece about what type of questions and what not. I talked to him and gave some pointers too. From what he told me it seemed to work. Of course they are still going to drag their feet even though his policy language says a decision has to be made w/in 60 days (which has already past) or they have to pay the claim. Have no idea how they can justify breaking the policy language and get away with it, but he said they have heard of settlements taking a couple years. This is the 2nd time they were questioned and the ins. co. is going to get the copy from the 1st time, which has to be typed up and will take 30 days to get. So now they have to wait up to 30 days just to get a typed up statement, then take however longer to maybe make a decision which apparently will be made by someone 2 levels up from the ins. agent. And then there is my leaking roof and State Farm. I have mixed feelings about using someone on their preferred list to do the work (if we decide to proceed w/ the claim). Also the agent's office was really vague about whether my premium would be raised. They just said it might go up. I need a better answer than that before I decide to proceed w/ the claim. Just defeats the purpose of having insurance if you are going to raise my premium when I file a claim. The corporate office said the local office should be able to tell me whether my premiums would go up or not and if they don't know then they can call the underwriters at a regional office. The snow has now melted off the roof and what was once wet has now dried up in the attic. All you see now is the damage in the garage (which the corporate office said that is covered and a payable claim regardless of whether the roof is or not. Just have to have someone look at it and determine if the damage is equal to or greater than the deductible. If it is equal to the deductible, I see no reason to file a claim. Just pay out of pocket to the person that will do the work. I can't see how at this point in time how they can determine the damage to the roof was caused by snow/ice or normal wear and tear since they can't duplicate the conditions that caused it or didn't see what was going on at the time the roof was leaking. All that has to happen is for it to be payable is it has to equal to or be greater than the deductible and someone has to say yes the damage was due to snow/ice. For the reasons above, I can't see how they can now say that.
  15. Sideoftheroad
    +1 If I started the hijacking, I am sorry.
  16. Sideoftheroad
    Wally, I do agree w/ the statement. It is long out of warranty and they don't have to do anything. I was hoping 1 of 2 things would happen. 1. I call Garmin and they say here is the solution for that or there is a trick that most people don't know. 2. Can't get the touchscreen to work and they will do a free fix or exchange as a courtesy just like others have been able to do. Neither one happened. I think this is one way they have built a loyal customer base too. I can't be mad or anything else like that. Can't expect someone (can hope for it at least) to replace or fix something out of warranty for free. Just disappointed abit. I took a gamble based on others experience on this forum and was hoping to receive the same treatment if we couldn't get the touchscreen to work. Gamble didn't work out. But overall I got it dirt cheap (less than $100, when most go for no less than $300 on e-bay) for something that I can still use the remote with to access all the features. Just a hassle to use the remote especially less than 1 inch away. If I didn't have a touchscreen and a remote to use, I would not be happy. I haven't hooked it up to my computer yet (guy forgot to include the ac power cord. He is sending it). If I am able to hook it up to the computer and unhook it w/out it completely crapping out, even without a touchscreen it will still be better than that new POS TomTom I returned like 3 days after I bought it. LilBeaver, We went over that too when I called Garmin. I have the latest software 7.20 I think. We also reinitialized it. Unit off, Press and hold Menu and Maps (I think) buttons at the same time, turn unit on, keep holding the buttons for 5 seconds. Still didn't work. Also can't recalibrate the touchscreen since I can't use the touchscreen at all. I would say that would be the only bad thing about it. You would think you could use the remote to recalibrate it. I think that is the only feature I can think of that you can't use the remote with. I wasn't able to register it to my name since it is still registered to a previous owner. No way to tell if it was the person I bought it from unless he says it was registered under him. I also told him about what Garmin said must be done to get it registered to me. Had I never bought a Garmin, honestly if they had a program to just purchase a refurb model for $170 directly from them, I would have easily gone for that. I might try one more time and see if I get different results. Sometimes you never know when you get a different person.
  17. Sideoftheroad
    Lots of members have used, out of warranty Garmins, called their support and gotten free replacements. I took a chance based on this w/ a Streetpilot 2730 on e-bay in that the remote works (if you hold it less than an inch from it), but the touchscreen doesn't. I called their tech support and tried a couple things. Nothing worked. All they said was because it is a discontinued model and out of warranty I would have to pay $170 up front. I can ship it to them and if they can't fix it then they can choose to send me a refurb. Not what I was hoping to hear.
  18. Sideoftheroad
    Sorry for your loss. We had to put our Shepherd down a couple years ago. Saddest day of my life and when I think of him, I still get choked up. Love and miss him very much. Wish I could clone him. Getting tears just thinking about it now.
  19. Sideoftheroad
    When I had my Honda, the Honda shop wouldn't work on the older Honda's either. Not sure about my current Yamaha shop. I do know they are putting together a 1st Gen right now. Not sure what year though.
  20. Sideoftheroad
    Used to work in a restaurant once. Girl told me that it's not illegal if you aren't caught. I really couldn't say anything to that. Same girl would pass out in her parents lawn (underage drinking) and parents would just let her stay there all night.
  21. Sideoftheroad
    I have a couple of them. Not sure if they are the repair manual as I haven't looked at them in a really long time. I am sure at least one of them is the assembly manual that shows you have the factory assembled it. Paddock parts and Harmons are right here in Indiana so I can get it from them too. I have been to Paddocks a couple times in the past so I know they have a store front. Great place, very helpful people. I don't believe Harmons has a store front.
  22. Sideoftheroad
    Suprised no one has said it yet. Where are my manners. Here are the pics. Cranberry Red, Black SS stripes, Pearl interior, bench seats.
  23. Sideoftheroad
    MiCarl, Not sure about the electromechanical part, but yes it runs all the time (when the battery has juice). I have had it run for a couple months w/out starting the car and it would fire right up, so not sure the clock is really the issue. Also wonder when these cars were built in the 70's what the failure rate was for the dimmer switch. I am sure they moved it to the column for some reason in newer cars. I think I mentioned it in my original post (maybe not) that we do occassionally have mice so when I look for chewed wires I at least can't see any (doesn't mean it isn't there). Couple summers ago opened the hood and all this stuff started falling out. It was like winter and snow was falling. Yipee. I thought I would at least pull the dimmer switch tonight or tomorrow and check it out w/ my multimeter. Also will check fuses. Those items are easy enough to get to.
  24. Sideoftheroad
    MiCarl is right in that the clock is always running. (as an fyi...) I don't have a radio, or A/C to worry about. I have had it sit for a couple months w/ the clock running and never had a starting issue. This just seems to have crept up. I replaced the battery last year because it wouldn't start and the previous battery was at least 6-7 yrs old. So figured it was time. Now since it drained the new battery (providing the new battery isn't bad) maybe the old one hadn't gone bad yet. At least the new battery is still under warranty. Didn't think about what might be the obvious in that the headlight bulbs have gone out too. I have had the car for like 8 yrs now (I think). In that time I have changed the dimmer switch twice (this would make it the 3rd.) Yes it is on the floor so moisture could be the culprit. They are cheap enough. What I have is a multimeter Digitek DS830B. I can do volts, guessing it is good for Ohms too. I have to look at it again. And what I am gathering from everyone is by checking the volts and ohms, this is basically doing the same thing as what Autozone can do, correct? For experience on how to do it as I am electrically challenged, wouldn't hurt to do it and take the battery, alternator and maybe even the starter to see if they get the same results as I do. I had the engine rebuilt maybe 4-5 yrs ago. Instead of tuning to TDC, the guy turned the mark 180 degrees. Talking about a hard start. I at least believe after a couple hard starts like that, it killed the alternator. Or could have been the original alternator and it was time to go. Yes I realize the alternator is part of the charging system and no so much as the starting system. So bought a rebuilt one and had worked for many years. It might still be good. Won't know until I test it. Being rebuilt and newer not sure if regulator is internal or not. Also this is a 40 yr old car. All the wires are cracked, connections corroded, etc. lol. Just kidding (but not really). Original wire harness I am sure, but not looking to buying a new one. All great advice guys. Now I just need some warmer weather to pull it out of the garage to see what's going on. Not enough room in the garage to be able to check it out. Also got some other issues I have to deal w/ 1st like a leaking house roof. :-(
  25. Sideoftheroad
    (old issue thought I would throw it out there) Headlights do not work anymore. Doesn't matter when I hit the dimmer switch. They used to work when I hit the brights, now they don't work at all. Newest issue, bought new battery this past summer. Car ran fine. Let it sit for about a week and when I tried to start it up, nothing. Barring a bad battery cell, what else could it be? Father in law thought maybe voltage regulator. I got a new battery tender for christmas and took it like 3-4 days to get a green light. That is w/out it hooked up to the car. I figure a mouse chewed a wire, but not sure which one. When I look in the engine compartment, I can't find any frayed wires. Heck it is 40 yrs old now. Wouldn't be suprised if it is the original starter.
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