BigBoyinMS

Here is another site with even more info on car tires. You'll need to register for free. Darksiders Forum

Well, I finally got a reply from Mickey Thompson tech support. I sent an email asking for all the sidewall info. This is what I got. "tread is 4 ply and the sidewall is 2 ply. It is a load range B which is 990 pounds each. The speed rating is H which is 130. There is no wear rating on the tire." It's a good looking tire but it has none of the attributes that I am looking for in a tire. Like higher load rating, longer wear and lower price(than an mc tire). This is nothing more than a mc tire for a car. LoL My Kumho - 1201lb load, about$50 and should get between 25k-35k miles out of it. The Mickey Thompson - 990lb load(Avon is 902lb), $175 and who knows on the wear.

A few years ago, before I gave up riding H-D's, I attended a HOG meeting just to see if I would want to be part of it. There were about 20 people there. I'll usually strike up a conversation with someone before too long but I decided to sit back and get the feel of the group and wait and see if anyone else would say anything to the 'new guy'. After about 20 minutes I couldn't wait till it was over and it was because the members there seemed to feel the same way! The feeling that I got from them was that there was a H.O.G. just because there HAD to be a H.O.G. and they were unlucky enough to be it. But, that was one group on one night. I'm sure there has to be a group out there that is happy that they are members.

The taillamps are lower on the corners. That's his exhaust ports for his spaceship!

The Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R in 26X6.00R15LT. I think Pegscraper originally found this tire but all the pics I've seen have been of one of the 10-12" wide ones. I finally found a photo of the correct sized tire. No one has tried one yet (and may not for $175) but it sure would look good on our bikes! http://www.ratherbe.us/MTtire.jpg

:BLUE: Kountrystar! I have to agree with you about the people here. Even arguments here are civil! We even have a Darksiders section for those of us that run car tires on the rear. Other forums where I have brought up the subject (or just answered a question) have always had a couple that would just get nasty about the subject. Again...

On the rear you actually have a choice of a few. In 155/80R15 is the BFGoodrich Radial T/A (Only available in raised white letter on one side) Most of us go with the wider 165/80R15 or 165SR15. Tires in that size are: Kumho Powerstar 758 (my tire) Nexen SB802 Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR, part number 6652, 26X6.00R15LT (This would probably be a great tire! But it's priced like a cycle tire.) Federal,Vredestein, Michelin (don't know models) As for the front... Back in the day, CT's were used on the front also but so far no one has tried it lately that I know of. In fact, I think I looked and couldn't find a CT in a size that would fit our Royal Star's. Most are using a REAR cycle tire (in the correct front size) on the front. The secret is to mount it in reverse rotation because the tire tread design is reversed for front and rear. The reason for using the rear tire on front is that the rear tires will have an average of 1/8" more tread depth and they have a higher load rating. Example: An Avon Venom front tire is rated 71H and the rear size on the front is 77H or V. I would also suggest that you do a free registration at The Darksiders Forum and read more on it. Good safety info there about mounting the tires.

Sorry that I didn't see this when you first posted, T-Paw... and welcome to the sexy group! I can't say that I could tell any better turning radius. I was just happy to be able to turn without hearing a roar from a cupped ME880! As far as curves and the bike leaning... the tire really never gets on the edge. If you look closely the flat area isn't really flat but curved. With the shallow lean angle of our bikes you will never get on the edge. Although I don't try to be a floorboard dragger I've actually taken a couple of curves that my GoldWing buddy was uncomfortable with. Somewhere on the Darksiders forum there is a pic showing that you actually have more rubber contacting the road in a curve with a C/T.

I found the stoppers at a local Ace hardware dealer called Revell Hardware. Your best bet is an old fashioned "hardware store" rather than any of the big chain stores.

Well, I'm glad to know they are as reliable as I always thought. The liberal extremist part would have just been an extra negative.

I just read this on another forum and thought it was interesting. I did do a 'whois' to verify the domain is owned by a David Mikkelson. Don't know if the story is true but it would not surprise me. Truth about SNOPES For the past few years _www.snopes.com_ (http://www.snopes.com/) has positioned itself, or others have labeled it, as the 'tell all final word' on any comment, claim and email. But for several years people tried to find out who exactly was behind _snopes.com_ (http://snopes.com/). Only recently did Wikipedia get to the bottom of it - kinda makes you wonder what they were hiding. Well, finally we know. It is run by a husband and wife team - that's right, no big office of investigators and researchers, no team of lawyers. It's just a mom-and-pop operation that began as a hobby. David and Barbara Mikkelson in the San Fernando Valley of California started the website about 13 years ago - and they have no formal background or experience in investigative research. After a few years it gained popularity believing it to be unbiased and neutral, but over the past couple of years people started asking questions who was behind it and did they have a selfish motivation? The reason for the questions - or skepticisms - is a result of _snopes.com _ (http://snopes.com/) claiming to have the bottom line facts to certain questions or issue when in fact they have been proven wrong. Also, there were criticisms the Mikkelsons were not really investigating and getting to the 'true' bottom of various issues. I can personally vouch for that complaint. A few months ago, when my State Farm agent, Bud Gregg, in Mandeville hoisted a political sign referencing Barack Obama and made a big splash across the internet, 'supposedly' the Mikkelsons' claim to have researched this issue before posting their findings on _snopes.com_ (http://snopes.com/) . In their statement they claimed the corporate office of State Farm pressured Gregg into taking down the sign, when in fact nothing of the sort ever took place. I personally contacted David Mikkelson (and he replied back to me) thinking he would want to get to the bottom of this, and I gave him Bud Gregg's contact phone numbers - and Bud was going to give him phone numbers to the big execs at State Farm in Illinois who would have been willing to speak with him about it. He never called Bud. In fact, I learned from Bud Gregg that no one from _snopes..com_ (http://snopes.com/) ever contacted anyone with State Farm. Yet, _snopes.com_ (http://snopes.com/) issued a statement as the 'final factual word' on the issue as if they did all their homework and got to the bottom of things - not! Then it has been learned the Mikkelsons are very Democrat and extremely liberal. As we all now know from this presidential election, liberals have a purpose agenda to discredit anything that appears to be conservative. There has been much criticism lately over the internet with people pointing out the Mikkelsons' liberalism revealing itself in their website findings. Gee, what a shock? So, I say this now to everyone who goes to _www.snopes.com_ (http://www.snopes.com/) to get what they think to be the bottom line facts...'proceed with caution.' Take what it says at face value and nothing more. Use it only to lead you to their references where you can link to and read the sources for yourself. Plus, you can always google a subject and do the research yourself. It now seems apparent that's all the Mikkelsons do. After all, I can personally vouch from my own experience for their 'not' fully looking into things.

That is one good looking RSTD! I'm not a WW kinda guy but they sure set that bike off!

I thought about more bottles but then it starts getting too bulky. You could still use two bottles and split the hoses with "t"'s. Just hook up all the hoses and clamp off or unclamp as you go. I still prefer it as is. Takes 10 seconds to move the hoses.

Sounds like you got an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery. You can Google for more info.

You'll need to use a relay to connect it. There are some other threads here that have a wiring diagram and the type of relay to use. Just do a search.

I know there is already another "cheap carb sync" thread but I had a little time at work today to make a .pdf and I'm sure there are some here that don't know that there is an option. The Carbtune is still an easier way but if you like to tinker and would rather spend the money you save on something else then this is the way to go. And I like this style better than the yardstick and tubing style because there is no chance of sucking any liquid into the engine. $10 dollar carb sync

In the simplest terms, syncing the carbs doesn't change the fuel mix... it's basically adjusting the idle on each carb to be the same.

Your interpretation of "cussing" is not necessarilly mine (or for that matter, someone else's) But at MY house MY interpretation is the ONLY one that matters. There would be no debate. (56 posts and counting) In other words, I would have made the first original post and locked the thread because it would be a statement, not a point for debate. I know you want it your way but we are all smart enough to know where the mod's want the line drawn and it isn't going to change just because one or two don't like it.

Guess I'll drop my nickles worth in the basket. I only read the first post when the thread started and that was good enough, I thought. Since it's still here and getting more replies I read the last few. Here's the way I feel about it... We are all guest here. So we follow the rules or we don't need to be here. Period. Just like at my house. If you're a guest and I say "no drinking or cussing" (or anything else) and you don't agree, then go home. Period. Why do we need to still be replying, questioning and, in some cases, trying to push the envelope?

You can't go wrong with a rerurb. Many are new units that were returned for one reason or another and can't be sold as new. if not new then fully repaired. Tigerdirect and refurbdepot.com are a couple of sources.

Saturday I was on the RSV and followed my nephew to drop his tractor to be worked on. I offered him a ride home on the back of the bike. I'm right at 300lbs and he can't be much lighter plus about 50lbs of "stuff" in the bags and trunk. I'm sure some of you do this every day but other than being a little slow on the get up and go it actually felt ok. Got me to thinking... how many run with that kind of weight often?

Yeah, the top come off of the plug when I tried to pry it out. It's just plastic so I used a small punch (or screwdriver) and hammer and tapped the broken piece out the back of the hole. Plenty of room to fall out the back.

Actually I think the high pressure to seat it comes from the extra bead on the rim it has to jump before it seats. The stuff I used to lube mine wasn't slick enough so it took 112 lbs. That why I bought a clip-on air chuck so I could stand safely back at the compressor and up the pressure using the regulator.

That looks great. I think you'll be happy with that setup. What pressure are your starting with?

I was only looking at the stock 150 size. They do have the front in the MT90B16 which is equivalent to a 130 tire.