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BigBoyinMS

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Everything posted by BigBoyinMS

  1. Another low cost brand to look at is the Shinko's. They are basically Yokohama tires from my research. They supposedly purchased all the assets of Yokohama after the Yokohama factory was damaged in one of the earthquakes. I put a set on a VStar 650 and they look pretty good. Not sure about sizes for our bikes.
  2. Hey Curtis... from the pic it's looks as if you have a backrest. Did you have to readjust it or change it in any way? If I got a seat made just wondering if it affects using the backrest in anyway. I'm just under 6' and 300lbs and the pillow seat isn't bad but could be better. But I would keep the pillow before getting rid of the backrest.
  3. And it's important to note that the only water you should use is distilled water. After replacing 3 heater cores in a truck that I used to own , I did some research. Non-distilled water (and coolant with some age on it) actually develops an electric charge from passing over dissimilar metals. You can even measure this voltage with a voltmeter! This small electric current removes metal from engine surfaces leaving large pits or holes and can eventually eat entirely through a component. The heater cores that I mentioned developed pinholes because I used tap water just as I always had for years even though I knew better. Lesson learned.
  4. And here is a great article explaining why DOT 4 is the best to use. Best brake fluid type
  5. I took the Road Star to work today with the plan of swapping for the RSV at lunch. Forgot my keys and had to turn right around. Got halfway home and it seems to be a piece of trash in the pilot circuit so I drove the truck back with plans of getting the RSV at lunch. Of course, the guy that I work with had to be off today because of a sick cat so I didn't get to leave at lunch. Soooooo... Yes, I rode to work and the bike was there for about 30 seconds.
  6. You've been reading post by people that probably never have tried it. There are a lot of 'experts' out there that never done it; just know all about it. My experience with the Kumho... I can't feel any difference in handling. On other bikes that use wider tires, you'll feel a little more effort in turns. Different air pressures will make a difference too. I use 40-42 lbs and some less. But car tires are not flat. They have a rounded profile, too. Just not AS round. That is why they will have more tread in contact with the road in the curves than an M/C tire. Check out the Darksiders forum at Riding the Darkside if you are interested. More info there from the people that actually use the tires. It's a free registration if you aren't on Delphi forums already.
  7. I could be wrong but I think it's a comment that's meant one way and taken another. (stays flat on the road through the curves as the sidewall will flex and the tread will remain on the road) I agree there is no way it will stay flat with 100% of the tread on the ground but in a lean it will never be totally on the edge or beyond it. The bike would be way beyond scraping to do that. But they will get on the last couple of inches of tread... still more contact than a M/C tire. I can see the wider tires feeling different in the curves but as I have said before, the size that fits on our RSV's and RSTD's, for me at least, feels just like an M/C tire but with better grip. FYI, (and I may have posted this already) after I did my drive line lube I was checking the rear brake. Running at about 20 mph I wanted to see if it would lock up. It took a lot of effort to lock the rear and when it did lock you could feel the tire gripping hard. I tried the same on my Road Star with Venoms. On the Roadie and every other M/C tire I've locked up it will slide smoothly. In fact, I locked the Venom and didn't realize it until I was drifting a bit. The Kumho felt like a gum eraser dragged across a glass table top. Just my observations and my experiences. And my with change back.
  8. Boomer, check out this thread. Moly60 MSDS
  9. Mine must be really off. I'm usually averaging 35 mpg. They look like a bear to get to though.
  10. LoL I have an '07 also. The first time I did it, it took me 6 hours on and off! Because I was tired and aggravated. I did it yesterday twice and it took a few seconds. This works for me... pick the diff end up and the front end down until it bumps the u-joint spline then lift the front while you are pushing in. You may have to use a screwdriver to go in through the speedo pickup hole to rotate the gear a bit. There is a grey plastic plug just above the ujoint that will give you access to reach in with a piece of wire and lift the ujoint if needed. You have to remove the side cover to do that. My best advice... relax.
  11. Mason-Dixon Telepathy
  12. While I agree with the others here, and it probably is stopped up after sitting, I'll also mention this... Have you turned the idle speed knob? I just like to to look at simple things that seem obvious before jumping right into a carb(s) tear down. It's eye level to little kids that love to twist things.
  13. Well, it's all back together and it's a lot quieter. Some of the noise could have been the pins because they were slightly dry. But the last time I lubed, 3000 miles ago with bearing grease, it didn't get this quiet. As expected, I still have the tiny bit of "George Jetson Car" that I always had but the whine that has always been a bit louder than the chirp is mostly not there now. I haven't put the bags back on and maybe they will reflect the noise up to my ears so if anything changes after I put them back on I'll update this.
  14. That's the one I have on mine but it was put on by the PO. It's all I've ever ridden with so I can't comment on a comparison. Other than being the wrong height for me it does well. (the top edge is directly in my line of site so I'm always sitting up or slouching)
  15. I did a quick check of Grainger last night and it looks like they sell sheets of shim stock in packs of 10 starting around $80. I'll check them closer today. I'll try some other local suppliers and see if I can find what I need in individual sheets. If not, I've already considered checking the thickness of steel or aluminum license plates. I know road signs are made in .040" and 0.80" so I may check with the city people for old signs. The thickness I need is .038" or .039" and I'll be happy with .040" even if I have to stack 0.10" or .020". The thinner stuff I can probably make using the ball peen method. The thicker I'll probably sandwich between 2 pieces of thin plywood and use a holesaw, jigsaw and drill bits. As you can see, I would rather use my imagination to keep it inexpensive and do it myself as much as possible. I get as much pleasure tinkering as riding.
  16. Scary! These 4-legged animals are scarier than the 2-legged. Glad y'all made it through that ok!
  17. If anyone is watching this I'm going to keep updating this thread till I'm done. Thanks to Squeeze for mentioning checking the gap with the axle rotated. I guess I had gotten tunnel-vision by the time I got to that point and didn't even think. I rotated and torqued the axle every 90 degrees and got the gap down to .038"-.039". Now I have to find a source for some .020" shim stock. I made a pattern from a piece of manila folder. I tried to measure and draw it first until I remembered the old fashioned way of making gaskets using a ballpeen hammer. Worked like a charm. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01155.jpg
  18. I've been running a Kumho at 40-42 lbs since I mounted it 3000 miles ago and as long as it feels like it does I'll probably stay there. I may try dropping pressure every trip just to see how it feels... and maybe not. These are pics from yesterday. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01118.jpg http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01116.jpg http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01117.jpg http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01115.jpg
  19. I didn't but that will be my first job when I get to it this morning.
  20. Update with pics: Everything looked pretty good when I got it all apart except the pins were kind of of dry. I polished them up with some emery cloth and cleaned the holes with a homemade hone made of a piece of emery and a piece of wire. I also pulled the drive shaft from the diff and cleaned all of the old grease out then coated everything with Moly and put it all back together. While I had the wheel off I also lubed every bolt on the shock mounts since I have a groan every time I sit on the bike. JerryK in Ohio had a post in Nov. of last year about a dealer that had started shimming the space between the driveshaft tube and diff. This was supposed to stop most of the noise. His bike had a gap of .020". I decided to check mine after I had torqued the axle bolt. I had a gap of .077"!! That's about the thickness of a dime and a nickel together. If I had tightened the 4 nuts I would have just pulled the right side swingarm around and everything would have been in a bind. I'm stalled until I can find something to cut a shim out of. The local parts stores have never even heard of sheets of shim stock. I did find that some street signs are .080" thick. Guess I'll head to the machine shop Monday. I'll get a pic of the gap tomorrow. My hone. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01127.jpg Lubed and ready to go together. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01123.jpg Looks pretty good. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01132.jpg Love my Kumho! 3000 miles on it. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01116.jpg
  21. Yes, I realized that it would be all the lash in the driveline combined from the tranny to the diff, just didn't expect that much. FYI, it was in 1st.
  22. I wonder if someone could answer this for me. How much drive line backlash or slack do you have? I had time to get it on the lift last night and I was looking it over and noticed that it seems to have more backlash than I think it should. While in gear I turned the tire till it stopped then turned it in the opposite rotation till it stopped. I measured almost 2 3/4" of rotation. Has anyone else checked that or have your bike up where you could check it? I'm wondering what an average is. I'll be tearing into it when I get off work and will know more then.
  23. That brings back memories. And a shirt wet with drool.
  24. I actually added moly to the diff about 1000 miles ago. I didn't expect to notice any difference, and I haven't, but it will probably add to the longevity of the ring and pinion.
  25. I've thought about that same thing. That extra lip makes it a pain. My Kumho took 112 to seat. I used a clip-on chuck and stood back at the compressor and upped the pressure with the regulator.
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