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BigBoyinMS

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Everything posted by BigBoyinMS

  1. BigBoyinMS
    Cerviperus, I just did a Craigslist check and found a 2000 VStar 650 with 8000 miles in Paris,IL for $3000. And there were a few that were under $4000. You can search all the Craigslist with this link... http://www.searchtempest.com
  2. BigBoyinMS
    My wife decided that she wanted a bike of her own and bigger than a 250. But at 5' nothing we were having a hard time finding a decent bike. Finally found her a 2003 VStar Classic for around $3k with 3000 miles on it. Stock she can hold it up tip-toeing. I did what is called the "Julio Slam" on it that dropped the rear 4" and she can flat foot it with boots on. I could still shave some foam in the seat to get it lower. By the way... the "Julio Slam" cost $0 to do. Just drill one hole. I've ridden it some and I'm surprised at the power it has even with my 300lb almost 6' self on it. They also make a 'Custom' model if she doesn't like the baby Road Star look. Heres a pic of her bike after I lowered it. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DeBadgedVStar.jpg
  3. BigBoyinMS
    I'm starting to think MY whine issue is coming from the diff. I've moly lubed everything and even fixed my groaning shock but there is still a loud whine that shouldn't be there. I have a small mp3 player/recorder that I'm thinking about attaching to the bike in different spots and try to narrow down my noise. I'll probably get too much wind noise but, what the heck, I'll try. I just HATE to leave it with a dealer for warranty work.
  4. BigBoyinMS
    ... and you may have the same issue that I did. Every time I sat on mine it would groan. The last time I did a drive line lube I removed every mounting bolt that had to do with the shock and used moly60 on it. Not a sound now. It was probably the top mount that was the problem. The others are all needle bearings and the top mount is just a bolt through the shock and it was dry.
  5. BigBoyinMS
    It's still there at $7100 and 16 hours left. Search for 220441532579.
  6. BigBoyinMS
    How about posting a link to the vendor?
  7. BigBoyinMS
    OOOOOOOO! He said DarkSide! LoL Too bad it's a 1st Gen. I hear that they can't fit a car tire because of not enough clearance. IF you could then the CT gives you 25% higher load rating.
  8. BigBoyinMS
    If I was buying a new (or used) Venture I would put a few hundred miles on it then do a drive line lube (with Honda Moly 60), diff oil change and engine oil change with dino oil. If it was a new bike I would claim noise and try to get them to do it under warranty. The drive line lube because Yamaha thinks grease is in short supply and they use very little. The diff oil change just to flush out any trash that may be in there from the manufacturing process. And the same reason for the engine oil. And non-synthetic until after break-in.
  9. BigBoyinMS
    I've been using 4 pieces of 2x4 about 3 1/2 square; one on each corner. And I have TRIED to make it slip. I guess the frame kind of indents into the soft wood.
  10. BigBoyinMS
    What it does is drop the needle lower which is slightly leaning out the main. It stays on the fat part of the needle longer.
  11. BigBoyinMS
    It sounds like your a bit lean after the K&N's, opening the air boxes up and the RK mufflers. More than likely adjusting the pilot screws out 1/4 to 1/2 turn each would probably fix that part of it. With a long screwdriver just pop off the caps that cover the pilots. If you look between the carbs to the inside of the carbs on the opposite side you will see little brass cones. They just pry off. One at a time turn each screw in while you count the turns until it lightly seats. Then just turn out and add a 1/4 turn. And yes, you probably will need to re-sync after. On the clutch issue... I'm have been wondering about the Rotella Synthetic. I'm starting to think there may be something in it that just isn't good for our bikes but I don't know. I drained it out of both my bikes and saved it to use in the car. I know that it is a GREAT oil for my 1-ton Dodge w/Cummins. Believe it or not it has given me a 2.5 mpg increase on in town driving and comparable or better on the highway. I've never done better than 19mpg hwy keeping it at 65mph but I made a 500 mile run to Houston last weekend and got 20.5 going and 21.4 coming back running 75mph. And coming back should have been worse because of idling and stops we made. I never thought an oil change could do that. I like synthetics but for the bikes I think I'll go with Amsoil or Mobil 1... or just stay with 15w40 Dino Rotella.
  12. BigBoyinMS
    I can only speak of what I know... Using a Kumho PowerStar 758 on my RSV w/out a trike kit. The load rating on an Avon Venom that fits the RSV is 901 lbs at max pressure. The Kumho is 1201 lbs at max pressure. Max pressure is 44 lbs and I run at 40-42 lbs. Some have adjusted down to approx. 10 lbs under that with good handling. As far as handling and hard/soft ride, I have yet to tell any difference between the CT and the MC tire. I don't even think of it when I ride. And the Kumho (165/80R15) is very close to being the same diameter as the car tire (150/90-15).
  13. BigBoyinMS
    The bulletin just tells how to set up the rear before you put the wheel on. The shim check is something a Yamaha tech came up with. After you follow the TSB then fully loosen the 4 acorn nuts and just bump the diff a few times to make sure it isn't binding and is floating free. Then measure the gap if there is any. Link to thread with TSB
  14. BigBoyinMS
    Here you go... This is between the diff and driveshaft tube. There is a link to a bulletin on how to torque everything somewhere on the site. (I'll find it and post it here when I have another minute) Just follow the bulletin then loosen the 4 nuts showing in the pic and bump the diff with a rubber mallet. Then measure the gap. http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01133.jpg
  15. BigBoyinMS
    On each one, count the turns in and then come out and extra 1/4.
  16. BigBoyinMS
    Put in the auction # and it comes up... 140326669122
  17. BigBoyinMS
    Thought I was the only odd one! Many times I mount and dismount from the right because it seems easier to me too. I started doing it because I have to park close to a wall on the left side of the garage.
  18. BigBoyinMS
    With 5000 miles.. Oil change, Moly 60 lube of the drive line and change the rear diff oil at minimum.
  19. BigBoyinMS
    From the History page here... Front Wheel Cast Aluminum, 16 x 3.50 Front Tire Tubeless 150/80/16 Rear Wheel Cast Aluminum, 15 x 4.00 Rear Tire Tubeless 150/90/15
  20. BigBoyinMS
    I keep reading where those 1st Gens are odd. I've never owned, ridden or seen a bike like that. My '07 has the kickstand on the left and when I lock the forks to the left (front of fender pointing left) like normal the bike will lean even more. Locking the forks to the right (front of fender pointing right) the bike will go more vertical and the kickstand will even slide to the right meaning less stable. FYI, you did make me go check. It didn't look like much difference in lean but it took about half the effort for me to push off the kickstand with the forks to the right.
  21. BigBoyinMS
    After putting a few miles on it, it is quieter. The Chirp has never really been that bad on mine and it really had nothing to do with this issue. It was the gear whine that changed and got louder. After I did the complete Moly lube and shim, it seems that part of the noise is better but I still have a lot of whine on accelleration or decelleration. If I equalize the rpms where the drive line is coasting then it's quiet. The part of the noise that I THINK is better is probably any noise that would come from the drive fingers. I had lubed them with bearing grease 3000 miles previously but since the fingers sit in one spot and do not rotate the grease gets pushed away from where the fingers push against the bushing. The Moly should last a lot longer. I've been trying to pinpoint where the whine is coming from and it seems to be from the diff. I'm going to try and record each area (diff, tranny left, clutch right) with an mp3 player and see if I can isolate where it's coming from. I have a theory or at least something we should check. Has anyone that added Moly to their diff oil had any extra gear noise start within 1000 miles? I wouldn't think it would cause it but my noise started a few hundred miles after an oil change where at the same time I changed diff oil and I also added some Moly for the first time. When I did the lube I changed diff oil again and added Moly again so I think my next step is to drain and refill with clean gear oil. Just to be sure. I already changed engine oil back to 15w40 Rotella from 5w40 Rotella Syn.
  22. BigBoyinMS
    I was sitting on the bike for a minute after getting to work this morning when I discovered that you can use the ignition lock to lock the forks when turned to the right. Why? They sit at such an upright angle when locked to the left that I couldn't imagine locking to the right and walking away from it. I just can't reason why Yammi would go to the effort of drilling an extra hole.
  23. BigBoyinMS
    Looks like we all may be wasting our money on GPS units. GPS satellite issues
  24. BigBoyinMS

    it blew

    BigBoyinMS replied to footsie's topic in The Darksiders

    Wonder how much pressure he had it up to?
  25. BigBoyinMS
    Maybe you should see if someone has one of the GOOD tires in stock! Y'know, the Kumhos!
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