Seaking

Thanks. Any chance you would have a photo of what this looks like. As previously mentioned, all fuses in the left side cover fuse box were replaced, as were the two fuses on the newly installed starter relay.. Is there another one I didn't see in that area? Cheers

2006 RSV Midnight: A month or so ago, the ignition switch failed on the bike and I had to do the jumper wire trick to keep the bike going. Flick the switch, turn the key and the bike runs nicely. Then after a while, nothing. The bike would turn over but not catch. A few other symptoms reared their ugly heads, parts replaced yet nothing. Here is the list of parts and what's happening: Ignition (key switch) replaced. Relay, side stand, the one next to coolant tank replaced. (bike would not show neutral light etc) new relay fixed that. Starter Relay (left side behind passenger floor board) replaced ('just because, just in case') What happens now is that when I turn the key, everything appears normal (no hi/lo headlight indication on instrument though the headlight functions properly hi/lo) Fuel pump is heard clicking as per norm. Bike on side stand, in neutral (light and roll test tells me so) Clutch lever pulled in.. Cycle the kill switch, the tach resets as normal as it always has.. Press starter button, the engine turns strongly but does not start. Battery is a year old.. All fuses checked and even replaced (fuse box left side of bike, under right front cowl and on starter relay) Fuel pump checked, pushes out a lot of fuel.. a lot.. All wiring connectors on and to the battery, key switch and relays previously mentioned have been cleaned and properly connected. New spark plugs. Checked each one to see if there was spark but no spark to any of the four. 4 Coils replaced a few years ago under warranty (they didn't need to be but the shop did anyway, a bad fuel pump that they missed was the real culprit) There is fuel going to the system, there is air going to the system but there is no spark going to the system to finish off the sequence to start the bike.. What else can I check, test or look into to get this ol' girl running again.. ? Thoughts, ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated. (suffering RSV withdrawal symptoms) Cheers

checked fuses behind lower right fairing?

As annoyingly difficult as the fuel filter is to change, it needs to be changed often.. and to do that, why not relocated it to a spot under the seat.. now removes any excuses for not changing it out each year.. (a clogged fuel filter caused a lot of problems on my bike and eventually led to the premature death of the fuel pump not long afterward..) The "thing" you're refering to is the "Relay, side stand" Item #45 on the parts fiche at http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3962876&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=2006&fveh=177741 I'm kinda familiar with that item since mine is toasted and waiting for a new one to arrive..

Anyone with proper experience with the Gunson Colortune kit around? Please drop me a PM as I'm working on a different bike and trying to sort out some inconsistancies with the kit. Cheers

I installed EBC HH Sintered pads on mine 70K miles ago and the front have lots of life left to them. (solid braking, less noise than the OEM pads before). The rear ones were recently swapped left to right as the inside pad always wears down before the right one, this allows more life out of them. But the rear pads will soon need to be replaced after a while. I use a lot of heavy rear brake in slow speed advanced manouvers in demos on the advance courses and every day slow speed manouvering. 68K on the front sounds right but wow, only 7k miles on the rear sets?

On my 2006 RSV, the speedo is off just shy of 10%. At 70 mph indicated I'm actually doing 63-ish mph, or at 110 kph I'm actually doing 101-ish kph. I generally use my GPS speedo when riding, its easier to see the numbers at a quick glance and is more accurate. We have those speed radar announcers around here as well and it shows the GPS being accurate. I had the SpeedoHealer on the bike, and while it made the speedo accurate, the odometer then noticeably suffered under-reading the distance by 8%.. I had since removed it, prefering an accurate bike odometer over speedometer.. I just got used to adding 10% to the speedo to keep within the legal speed limits if the GPS isn't mounted.

I've had the LED headlight installed for a while and can compare it with the stock, 80/100 and HID headlights that I had in there before.. Here's my personal opinion on the lights based on my personal experience with them.. (yours may very well differ) The installation is super simple. How long will it last is another story.. I always carry a spare H4 with me anyway.. my 2006 is equiped with Custom Dynamics LED highway lights.. expensive but awesome bright, wide spread of light and reliable. LED compared to: 55/65 H4: The LED headlight is much brighter and reaches further down the road, whiter colour than the yellow temp colour of OEM bulbs. HID: By far the brightest and farthest reaching headlight I've had installed but unfortunately, one problem after another with two sets required me to remove it and give up on HID for a while. 80/100 H4: The LED headlight is close to the brightness of this bulb but slightly less reach than the 80/100 bulb. After running with HID this was the closest I could get to the light reach on the highway. The OEM 55/65 seemed painful dim after running with brighter whiter lights. The LED headlight seems to be so far the better balance of all the headlights used thus far. Whiter and brighter than stock, not quite as bright as HID. Just about the same reach as the 80/100 but with a heck of a lot less power consumption.. If the components can last a few years of all weather, all temperature riding, I'll be a happy camper. Aiming can be tricky, it seems to put the light in the oddest place (some people may not notice it though). I did the typical aiming procedures but found it too low on the highway. I asked a friend to sit on the side of the highway in his midsized car and made approaching runs towards him, adjusting the light until he found it too bright.. Doing this with the high and low beam allowed me to set the light for maximum reach on low beam without disturbing oncoming traffic (every one hates being flashed by oncoming cagers) and maximum reach for high beam. Oncoming Miatas and other smaller cars are S.O.L. for being low to the ground cars.. sorry. Overall, so far I'm happy with the LED, good lighting, fair price and ease of installation. If you're going from OEM headlight, you'll enjoy the improvement. If you're replacing your HID, you'll probably find it a little dimmer. The only factor to be discovered is how durable and long lasting it will be.

I'll be contacting DJH3.. Hopefully the toggle switch is only temporary.. thanks again!

Ouch.. note to self, when trying to start a bike that has been cranking for a while, mind the ears.. geesus, that backfire bang was LOUD... both of them.. Alrighty then, here's where I am now.. with the red and brown/blue on the same connector jumpered on the bike side, the system lights up.. ahh acts like a switch, hence the switch bypass term.. the key still needs to be turned ON to start the bike though. Without the key all you get are the lights and such. The bike wouldn't start the first time I tried it so I also jumpered the switch side.. and the bike started.. wether or not the switch side actually made any difference what so ever, I'm not sure.. all I know is that the bike finally started again, and again.. So now I know I have a bad switch.. (ears still ringing) So a new switch is in order and the relay mod installed to eleviate this problem again.. In the mean time, a simple toggle on/off switch on the jumper will suffice to keep the bike in service until the parts arrive.. (is this correct thinking?)

Thanks M8.. I had just finished putting the bike together again and trying to start it with the key pushed around but alas, it's a no go.. What is the process of 'jumper the two wires' ? Connecting a wire across both wires before the plug? When we speak of the 'SWITCH', what physical part is that? I looked in the parts fiche and can't find it... Again, thank you for your assistance.

Thanks for the PDF file. I tested the plugs after close inspection. Plugs, connectors and wires show no sign of over heat, burn or concern.. However, meter readings weren't favourable. Following the directions on the PDF file, here's what I ended up with.. Switch ACC red + brown/black wire = 0.1 Switch ON red + black/blue = open (no reading) Switch ON red + brown/blue = 0.5 Switch ON blue/black + blue/yellow = 0.1 I went back and double checked my readings and found that this time all were the same except that now the red + black/blue gave me a 0.2 readings.. hmm A couple of more tries and it still gave me the same reading.. But once I turned the key to off and back to ON, no reading.. turn the key from off to ON but twist more to the right, and I get my readings again.. So what ever the red + black/blue connections does, the turning of the key is affecting it working or not.. Doesn`t surprise me.. the key tumbler has always been troublesome on this bike whereas it will only turn at a special angle.. I`d have to sit on the bike and the key turns easily.. but stand to the right of the bike and you can`t turn the key.. so odd.. SO, what is the fix? Thanks again for the assist.. !

I have the Dyna3K installed on this bike.. and hmm where is the OEM one..? I have the Dyna3K on my 1100 VStar as well and found one OEM module, but luck would have it that it's not identified as to which bike it came off from.. (from the days before I started bagging and tagging everything properly.. sigh)

Thanks M8

That would be highly appreciated.. To answer to a previous question, when the key is turned on, the radio and CB do work, head light works, the fuel pump can be heard to tick over (verified that fuel is being pumped in previous testing) etc.. everything seems to be normal except no spark, and the flashing fuel level gauge. Cheers

Thanks for the reply gents.. Though a little lost as to what you're referring to.. its the jargon and inexperience in the ignition electrical system. Are you refering to this set up here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75398 This is within my abilities and I have the required parts available to try this... might be cause effect of those false hesitant starts I had been experiencing in the past.. Apologies for my confused look.. Cheers

I installed mine under the front fairing, left side of the radio. Back side of it wrapped in foam to prevent rattling and zip tied to the fairing frame.. The sound level is about 1 or 2 dbs less under the fairing than it hanging out in the breeze where rain and dirt can reduce its service life..

Not yet.. mostly because I am unsure how to check that.. I know the coils shouldn't be the issue as they were replaced under warranty a few years ago.. Last year and a couple of times this year, I would get a "hesitant" start when pressing down on the starter button.. cleaned the switch and that kinda sorta fixed the issue but it still happens once in a while.. but the bike will start.. well when things are working properly.. Tell me more about the ignition switch checks and possible fixes if you can? Thanks

I agree, I do recall starting the bike with the tank plug undone and getting that signal.. I've thus far ascertained that the fuel pump IS servicable.. good points, and it pumps fuel out with pressure.. All fuzes are good and reseated.. Bike ran flawlessly the day before.. If I hold the bike upright, no flashing on the fuel gauge but as soon as it goes to it's kickstand with 3/4 fuel in the tank, flashing resumes.. but that's not the issue.. Battery is new and good, no recent new wiring or mods to the bike, ran well since taking it out in March.. and poof.. no start.. (added) Doing some more checks, discover there is no spark. Apart from the flashing fuel gauge, everything seems to work properly.. Where to start... So now it's chasing the lack of spark.. ? Anything else I should be looking at while I'm chasing this gremlin?

Yep, had thought of that as well.. cleaned them off but no change in symptoms unfortunately.. was looking at the fuel pump points, they are sharp and nice looking though cruddy with road grime.. Give them a cleaning as well.. Something in the fuel system I suspect.. something new to me for repairs.

with just over 200,000 kms on the 2006 RSV, the bike fails to start. Though it will crank and crank and crank, it won't catch. At first I thought it's the fuel pump (2nd one) I then notice the fuel gauge flashing 8 times, pause three secs, flashes 8 more time etc. According to the book, this indicates that the thermistor or sending unit is faulty. This bike hasn't shown proper fuel levels in a while now, usually drops to below half after 20 miles but holds sorta kinda normal down towards the last 3 bars.. (added) I now notice that the far right fuel bar flashes continuously after trying to start the bike.. the bike shows the far left bar as indicating a bad sender.. is the book bass ackwards? How does a bad fuel gauge sending unit affect if the engine should start or not? What's the normal course of action for repairs for this? Pull out the fuel sending unit and have a look at it to see if anything is obvious and if not, replace it? This had happened once before, thinking it was flooded but managed to start the bike after waiting 30 minutes.. did not notice any flashing fuel gauge that time.. (it might have been flashing but not seen). Thanks in advance for any advice. Cheers

I did several fuel runs on my 2006 RSV after installing the VMax rear diff on the bike, I consistently hit reserve at around 175 miles and can get around another 50 miles to empty doing highway speeds of 70 mph. (Carried a 5L fuel jug for that purpose) The VMax diff makes the bike's mileage more consistant for me around here due to the hills and winds, it keeps the bike in the sweet spot for RPMs. Speedo is typically 10% slower indicated than actual speeds, so I use my GPS for highway speed metering when traveling. As with everything else, your mileage may differ..

I have the whole Barnett clutch system in my 06 RSV and followed the instructions. But that was a couple of years ago. As far as I remember, I still have the bail (the wire) installed as the Barnett kit's odd sized disk replaces the oem half disc. And it's been running solid ever since installation. I had tried the PCW kit but didn't like where it placed the friction zone for my applications of riding, so installed the Barnett kit which suits my needs well. One thing about the spring conversion is to make sure the plate is seated properly. If you find yourself not being able to work the clutch after installation, it means you installed the plate 'a tooth' off of proper alignment.. The torque on the bolts is the same as OEM. It is that simple to install but these are common issues that come up once in a while.. I'll be taking my clutch apart in a week or so to scuff up the steels and can let you know what it looks like in there again, if that helps any..

I do most of my riding on the highway and found that though the engine revs are indeed higher, my mileage wasn't affected, and in most cases improved enough to notice the difference. Just have to get used to the higher revs.. if I remember correctly, around 70 mph the egine is turning around the 3,800 rpm range but it's no longer feeling like it's lugging but more in the 'sweet spot'.. I did a comparison to the previous year's mileage runs I had done with the OEM pumkin, and found an overall improvement on highways and backroads, mostly a more consistent fuel rate than before. Keep in mind that you may tend to 'drop the hammer' with the added responsive feeling on the bike and this will drop your mileage enough to really notice Fun or fuel economy, it's all in how you enjoy your ride... But like everything else, how you ride, fuel, maintance and roads will determine your mileage... YMMV

I still have mine sitting in a bag.. I used it for a little while but didn't like it and removed it. Would have prefered something more 'substantial' in nature to do the job. My '83 GS has balanced forks built in the top tubes interconnected by collars and a line between them.. weird but it works.