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Seaking

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  1. Seaking
    I agree with Miles.. I had mine first checked at 56,000 miles and they all needed adjustment.. at 110,000 miles, some needed adjustments. The valve check and adjustment process is not all that difficult (thought seemingly daunting the first time you do it). After the third or fourth time you do it, you'll find it easy to do.. By waiting too long to check the valves, at worst you risk damaging your engine and at best, not getting the best performance out of it. Even if they do not require adjustment, its a good time for some deep cleaning around the area (check valve stems, mine were grunged up badly and got 10% better fuel mileage after cleaning them). And you'll have the peace of mind that your valve system is good to go for another stretch of riding.. Someone showed me a little trick that if you put a bare knuckle on your tank as your riding and you feel a high frequency buzz, it may well indicate your valves are in need of adjustment.. After I adjusted mine, the buzz was gone, and the bike ran so much nice afterwards. Best of luck!
  2. Seaking
    I don't think it will work over the head set (I have mine removed as I never use it). Its a simple hook up to the speaker wires... if I can find that rear speaker wire under the fairing.. Good question though, you might be able to patch the rear channel wires of the amp to the headset wires in the bundle.. the amp has front and rear gain adjustment.. But suffice to say it rocks the speakers!
  3. Seaking
    And do we know which one amongst many it is? How best to locate it? Is it a one "pair" of wires ( the + and - wire together) Cheers
  4. Seaking
    I've installed a small brick amp on the bike (ouch, that's loud!) and have it connected to the front speakers.. To save from running wires from the front to the back of the back to the rear speakers, it would make more sense to simple patch the amp into the rear speaker wires that are coming from the audio system under the front fairing.. but which ones are they?! Wiring schematics don't do much good since they show a single speaker to the rear, nor does it show where the wires come out of which connector etc etc.. Worse case scenario is that I simply leave the front speakers working off the amp and forget the rear speakers, best case scenario is that all 4 speakers are tied into the amp for maximum sounds while traveling down the highway..
  5. Seaking
    lol the snake oil didn't work but a good scrubbing of the blade and connectors certainly did help..
  6. Seaking
    Thanks Gary and all those who provided assistance and suggestions with this weird problem. With Gary's schematics I was able to figured out the issue and sorted out a few other electrical issues. As for the one side 4way hazard light issue, it was nothing more than a bad connection coming out of the hazard relay. After cleaning out the pins and connectors (and a little tightening squeeze on them), everything is back to normal. While looking at Gary's schematics, I started looking at how to work the system in such that I would be able to run the 4 way hazard lights with the key out of the bike and I believe to have found a way around it. With the key out of the bike, I can select the 4 way flasher to ON and they will work.. With the key turned on (headlight on) they will also work. I won't be able to test if this will affect the cruise control or not as I have to wait for the glaciers to retreat a bit more before I can get the bike on the road. The only caveat to this set up is that your signal lights will also work with the key out. A work around this is to have a 3 position 4 pole switch (set to stock config and emergency). I did a quick wire testing of this set up and so far it works. Just have to be able to take the bike out and ride test it to see if it will cause issues with other systems. (self cancel, cruise etc..)
  7. Seaking
    Thanks Gary, I'll have a look at the PDF files in the morning. When I select left or right turn signals, the dash light indicators and signal lights will illuminate correctly. I can hear the signal light flash unit tic tic with each flash.. When I select the hazard light switch, only the left dash light indicators and left signal lights (front and back) will blink. There is no sound when this one side light flashes.. I don't think it does regardless? Can you confirm where the hazard relay connector and turn signal tie point would be located? The system was working properly a few weeks ago as I always turn on the hazard lights when stopped at a toll booth, remembering that the dash indicators were both working.. Thanks again for your insight.. Cheers
  8. Seaking
    Thanks for the responses.. When looking at this system and the wiring diagram, I can see it goes from the switch (on handlebar) to the relay (under right side of fairing) then to the flasher unit (under right side cover) while to goes through some detours through the cruise control magic boxes along the way (while in cruise control, activation of hazard light would disengage the cruise control..) Is there any other components that are part of the system that I haven't listed that I should be looking at so to meter for continuity before having to replace something on spec in hopes that it works? (if so, where is it located as well).. That wiring diagram leaves a lot to be desired to make it easier to trace.. ouch. Cheers
  9. Seaking
    I was checking the lights on the bike and see that when I turn on the hazard lights that only the left side lights actually flash.. the right side lights do not. However, the left and right turn signal system works. But only half of the hazard lights. Any thoughts as to where to start looking for the culprit..? Thanks in advance.
  10. Seaking
    One of the main culprits for killing off a fuel pump prematurely is a dirty fuel filter.. I bought my 2006 RSV in 2008 and didn't know that the original owner had never changed the fuel filter.. It was was so dirty that at one point it actually prevented fuel from flowing through unless there was more than 2/3 of the tank full of fuel.. then it would act as if it was on reserve.. Once that was figured out and the fuel filter changed (it was quite black) the bike ran fine for a while but it then experience shut downs at the oddest of times, under various conditions.. either highway or city riding, until it finally quit all together. The tech who sorted out the issue showed me the contacts on the old pump and said that the pump looked like it was so over worked that the contacts finally wore out from working too hard trying to pull fuel through that dirty fuel filter. I have since then relocated the fuel filter to a more accessible location and change it every season on spec. No probs since then. YMMV on this..
  11. Seaking
    Wasn't there a recent article on how this is done with resistors on the turn flasher unit? It referred to this document: http://www.650ccnd.com/PDFs/Flasher_mod_Revised.pdf
  12. Seaking
    I can only comment on the Works shock I have on my bike. I went through two OEM shocks in a short time (one under warranty, the second gave up the ghost a few months out of warranty.. go figure). The Works is easy to install and the set up (sag and rebound) is easy to initially set up, and once you like the ride, its set up.. I ride solo but I can imagine it might be cumbersome to adjust the shock if you have to reset it for two up, then solo again, or find a happy medium. There is no quick and easy adjuster on it. The shock has taken some heavy hits in the past and hasn't let me down. Quite happy with the ride it gives. I might have gone with one of the less expensive ones had I known about them at the time but no regrets on the Works shock.. Any shock that is rebuildable will be better than a throw away oem shock that has a bad habit of failing..
  13. Seaking
    Reading through this thread I did a search for these R/R and came across this site.. http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm interesting read through the site but I'm not familiar with the system enough to know if what he says is 100% for our type of bikes (last article on the page).. interesting though..
  14. Seaking
    Just a shot in the dark if all else fails.. I had those same problems and tried all the same great fixes folks have been offering, which did help some.. But what fixed my CB issues was relocating the wire bundle that comes around the steering neck and back up to the radio controller.. the wires were squished against other wires, and by moving the wires on top of the other so they were no longer binding or being squished resolved all my problems.. dunno if that would work in your case.. but that's what fixed my problems.. Best of luck..
  15. Seaking
    Yes you are correct, dunno why I keep referring to them as RCA connectors (face palm, probably because I'm installing a stereo amp to the bike that used the RCAs) The "car mount" I have for my Zumo 450 has speakers in it and an audio jack, the motorcycle mounting system has an audio plug in to connect to the bike's audio system. As the Zumo blasts out the tune, Alice (the nice voice that tells me where to go) will cut out the mp3 music so she can be heard and when she's done, the tunes resume automatically.. nice feature.. I don't know if the mount is Zumo 450/550 specific and can used on all the motorcycle Zumos that followed.. when in doubt, drop them a line and find out..
  16. Seaking
    If you get the motorcycle version of the Garmin, for example, it should come with the holder that you mount on your ram mount onto the handle back. This has the cables and fuse installed so that you can hook it up to a switched on power source on the bike. It all sits up there in a neat little package that you can latch your GPS onto and remove easily.. most motorcycle GPS units should have an in-car adapter you can purchase separately so the same GPS unit can be used in all vehicles.. I've even used mine in aircraft and boat.. Best of luck
  17. Seaking
    The cassette deck is removed from my bike, so it's the radio amp, mounted under the fairing frame.. if I remember correctly, its located to the left side of the unit when you're facing the front of the bike near where the other cables come out of the unit.. probably only 4 inches long? You would have to check out the garmin site (gpscity is another place to check) to see which models are available. I believe the 450 is discontinued but they carry the newer versions of the same unit, 660 and up models I think.. I didn't bother with the bluetooth version at the time for the ability to take a phone call while riding.. because you don't need that extra distraction while riding.. It takes some getting used to using a GPS on a bike, hence why being able to hear the voice prompts through your stereo system is essential, you get to keep your eyes on the road and on the look out for texting cagers on the highway.. while the prompts tells you that in 500 meters, keep left then turn left and then .. GPS doesn't always pick and chose the most obvious routes as it looks at the roads on the maps it carries and their classifications (a four lane road is typically seen as a faster road to use while a single lane road is seen a slower road, so it will pick the 4 lane road even though it's of a much slower speed limit and longer to travel.. )
  18. Seaking
    If you take the front fairing off and look at the back of the radio unit, you will find a small RCA jack (same type you would install a set headphones to) hanging out the back of it... Run an extension RCA wire from that back towards the instrument panel. From there you can plug it into your favourite MP3 player or music device. Set the radio control unit to AUX and voila, you have tunes blaring out of your speakers. It is that simple to set up.. nothing elaborate or technically difficult about it.. (if *I* can do it, anyone can...) I run a Garmin 450 Zumo which has a built in mp3 player, and in this configuration I can hear the voice direction prompts through the speakers (safer than looking down at the GPS screen!). I've hooked my iPhone, iPod and other devices to this and it works like a charm. I've had the Zumo 450 since 2006 and it's been exposed to all kinds of downpours and it's still kicking strong..
  19. Seaking
    It might be that you don't have the spring plate itself seated properly? You have to rotate it here and there until it seats up tighter against the plates.. I had that happen to me as well.. Though I have the Barnett spring, steels and friction plates in my RSV, the shop I bought them from no longer offers them.. Any suggestions where to pick up these items online?
  20. Seaking
    I had similar issues with the CC on my 2006 RSV and resolved it with a couple of tweaks.. One of them was loose throttle cables.. too much slack in them.. Once I had those tightened up it would work better.. (this is one symptom if you hit a bump and your set CC comes off..) but the speed would still bleed off a bit before climbing up to the set speed.. One way to resolve that is that as soon as you hit the 'set' button, tap the accel button twice, and that tends to keep the bike at speed without the slowing down lag.. Bonne chance..
  21. Seaking
    Nice, hadn't heard of these.. but will keep it bookmarked in case I ever have the front end apart again and want to up-upgrade my front springs Thanks!
  22. Seaking
    With all that extra stopping power on the front end, have you considered upgrading to Progressive springs in the front forks? One of the things I noticed about the RSV is that when you grab a fist full of front brake, the front end dives down which causes the rear end of the bike to unload a lot of weight making the rear wheel lighter on the ground, causing a loss of contact and more likely for the rear wheel to skid or lock up. I upgraded my front brake lines to SS but left the rear stock.. with SS lines on the rear, any panic or sudden application of the rear brake would just about always make it feel more likely to lock up because there is no more 'flex' in the brake line to take up the sudden application of the brake.. However, with the Progressive springs in the front forks, a heavy or sudden application of the front brake keeps the bike from nose diving, keeping the weight on the wheels more balanced and I seldom lock the rear wheel, and able to stop in a lot less distance than when the bike was stock. This set up with SS lines in front, stock lines for rear and the Progressive springs made a huge difference in the stopping distance and stability of the bike when that 'oh crap' moment jumps in front of you.. However, as with everything else, YMMV...
  23. Seaking
    I installed a small light metal box in mine with rubber mat padding to hold little things.. I also installed a water proof USB charger cable that I can use to charge my phone and netbook (long cable with a USB extender) while riding cross country. It only draws power when something is plugged in, while riding.. just have to remember to unplug things from it when stopped.. its been working great for the past 2 years..
  24. Seaking
    I've seen the mods done on a RSV where the breather box directly above the carbs was removed and replaced with filter pods directly onto the carbs (I have similar set up on my customized VStar). The owner adapted his mods after seeing it done on a VMax. I can't remember what else he had to do to the carbs (rejetting etc) but he says he gets a lot more 'giddyup and go' from this mod.. and most likely burns more fuel when he drops the hammer on the throttle.. Have a look at the VMax forums for breather mods, it may give you some leads..
  25. Seaking
    Thanks for the info, I'll pass it on.. but as he says, it happens so infrequently but hopefully it won't show up again after this.. To check for dead cells, need he take it to any battery shop to have it properly tested? Or is it something he can do at home with a multi-meter? Cheers
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