Seaking

I might be mis-understanding your question, so I apologize in advance.. If all you're trying to do is to connect the rear speakers to the amp, it's all done through the connector coming out of the radio controller under the front fairing, the same connector that the front speakers come out of... (one of the rectangle shaped white connectors that comes out of the radio unit) I would only assume that if you plug in a headset to the rear passenger connector, you'd also get amplified sound, since the connection to the amp is done upstream (I'm only guessing at this, I've never gone that far with the install or able to test it..). During the amp installation and hook up, there is never any need to go anywhere on the bike other than under the front fairing (except hooking up power to the amp..) I hope some of this helps in your quest.. I've done about three installs like this so far and it works.. Best of luck.

Referenced from sitting in the saddle.. clutch is on the left, front brake is on the right... car driver is on the left, screaming passenger is on the right.. Good question about the rear headset.. absolutely NO idea.. I don't use them so never tried, sorry.

A good warning to heed, as the book's wiring diagram did not match what I have in my harnesses. As mentioned, I was able to ascertain which wires were which by means of a 9v battery and touching the pos to the wires... As for setting gain, I turned it all the way down, set the bike's volume to 21 and increased the gain until it started to distort... I had an audio installer show me that.. whether it be right or wrong, it works for me..

When I first installed the Polks, the sound improvement was a wee bit better than OEM speakers when compared to another same type bike.. but not super great. But with the amp installed, wow, now they come alive. Every once in a while I have to turn the volume down to figure out if a new sound I'm hearing is from the music or something coming from the bike. I like the added richness of the sounds coming out of the speakers and the add volume of noise.. The hum of semi trailers on the highway would drown out the music or worse cause me to miss an audio cue from the GPS but now the sound punches through all road noises from other vehicles.. You can still hear what's around you but it's not drowning out your audio system sounds like before.. Before installing the amp, I could raise the volume only so far before distortion would make it unbearable to listen to.. but now, by the time I get distortion, its way to loud for comfort to listen to anyway. So yeah, it's loud! And clear! I've disconnected my CB system so I honestly couldn't tell you how it works with CB.. Apart from research I had to do to find the right wires, the installation only took a couple of hours and for me, was one of those well worth it mods..

I have the Polks 4 corners as well. The amp was rubber mounted under the radio unit and secured in place with simple zip ties. I found the simple notes that might help get you started.. I was able to locate which of the wires actually ran to the rear speakers by use of a 9v battery and testing the wires until I heard a buzz in each of the rear speakers. The front ones are easy to locate since you can trace them from the speakers to the connector. Its in this same connector that you will find the rear speaker wires for the left and right side. If your amp is similar to mine in function, you have the send the input signal from the radio to the amp and then out of the amp to the speakers. I ended up cutting the wires and jumping them to the amp wires to test it, and later this coming winter will be making them permanent connections. This set up also affects the AUX signal so the GPS and MP3 player that gets plugged into the radio will also be amp'd... In that connector, look for these wires (hopefully, your connector set up will be the same as mine..) Speakers: Front Left = white / yellow (look on speakers for which is pos and neg connector) Front Right = orange / black (look on speakers for which is pos and neg connector) Rear Left = red + / green - Rear Right = blue + / brown - you also have to set the GAIN on the amp to make it sound great and work properly.. When I first installed it and tested it, everytime I turned the volume dial the beep noise it makes was so loud as to be unbearable. Adjusting the gain resolved that issue and now the sound comes through loud and crisp. You can test the 'stereo' of the rear speakers with various songs, I used Boney M's Night flight to Venus as it has a rolling drum sequence that goes from left to right.. fade the speakers to the rear ones only and voila, rolling drums as they should.. from left to right etc.. I connected the amp directly to the battery (with inline fuse) and it doesn't draw on the battery.. I left it sitting for a few weeks during the winter and metered the battery before and after without any significant voltage loss. I hope this helps you out with your install process. Cheers

But he did say "poor alcohol" on the windshield... means using the cheap stuff.. ? or was that a typo? I dunno, but like a famous chef once said.. a cup o' wine in the dish... and one in the cook....

Will have to try that.. around here we have 'sticky drizzle' that is a nightmare to see through a windsheild at city speeds, especially at night.. hence why I had cut mine down to see over the top.. RainX helps but only so much at those speeds.. I can attest to the stregnth of the F4 windshield as I took a large fist sized rock from an oncoming dump truck right in the middle upper part of the windshield at highway speeds.. I ducked my head down in time and with a resounding "kerwack" noise, the F4 stood it's ground without cracking or shattering.. though it did scratch.. Any other windshield would have shattered and I would have eaten the rock.. My ears rang for a while from the sound of impact but man, I was impressed how it saved me from a serious 'hurt'...

The rear speakers are stereo, not mono.. I just recently installed an alpine 45W amp and just connecting the wires in the proper spot under the front fairing will do the trick.. no need to run new wires to the rear.. stereo front and rear. I hadn't had the time to do the wiring write up on it but do have my notes here.. If your stock wiring matches mine it should be an easy hook up. I'll see if I can dig up my notes and send you an email.. Been running the amp since early march and the sound is awesome.. Cheers

What you describe sounds much like the neck bearings are loose.. if you're going around a nice long sweeping curve and you can feel your bars pulsing back and forth (feels like it's wallowing...) while in the turn, this is a good indication of loose neck bearings. This will in turn eventually cause scallopping in your front tires. When coming to a stop with a lot of front brake and you feel the front end choppy, or knocking, this again is another sign it might well be your neck bearings. Best and cheapest way to test to see if your bearings are loose is to lift the front end of the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground. Stand in front of the bike and grasp the front tire and pull - push it forward and backwards. If you feel a knock or thunk, its an indication of your neck bearings being loose. When they are properly tight, you shouldn't feel any movement what so ever. While the bike is up on the hoist or just the front wheel off the ground, the bars shouldn't swing to either side by themselves without a push on the bars. Swing the bars so that they fall to one side making contact with the steering stops. They should bang against the stops with no more than one rebound.. if they bounce accessively, again another sign of loose bearings in the neck.. Replacing / repacking the bearings is a tedious task if you do it yourself and expensive if a shop does it for you. I replaced mine not long ago and just had to retighten them the other day.. The poor man's way of tightening the neck bearings is simple enough. You have to loosen the top nut on top of the triple tree and with a long screw driver, tap the two lock nuts until the bearings are tight again.. There is a very good article on how to do this in the library. Once the two lock nuts are tightened, and you can't feel that knocking in the front as you pull - push on the front wheel, re-tighten the top nut on the triple tree and take it for a test ride.. you'll be amazed at how sure footed your bike will feel afterwards compared to before. Keep in mind that eventually you should have the bearings replaced / repacked and the inner races inspected for uneven wear.. I've done a few of these for friends and the amount of turning on the lock nuts varied from a couple of inches to a full turn (that one was bad and later required new bearings, but it got him through the riding season until we could get the bike serviced properly with new bearings..) Best of luck.. Go with the easy least expensive checks first to determine the cause of the issues at hand..

I tend to install SS lines on the front brakes on all my bikes for the same reasons you're liking the Ural's feel of the brakes.. it feels better with the feedback, less spongy etc However I don't install SS lines on the rear brake system. I found the RSV notorious for rear wheel lock up when aggressively applying the brakes so having SS lines to the rear would make it worse.. the added spongyness of the rubber lines gives you some leaway and for me at least, results in seldom ever locking up the rear when doing emergency braking. Adding progressive springs to the front shocks also reduces the amount of nose-dive when applying the front brakes, thereby keeping a lot more of the bike's weight over the rear end of the bike, reducing rear wheel lock up even more. I also installed a SS line for the clutch as well.. works great.. This set up works great for me, but like everything else, YMMV... Cheers

Might be a long shot but I had perhaps a similar issue when I first got my used RSV.. turned out to be the wire bundle at the neck was dipping down into the steering stops which acted like a guilliotine, cutting the wires enough to expose the bare wires through the insolation covering and shorting out the headlight circuit every time it made contact with the steering stops on the left side. Once found, all I needed to do was fix the wiring and relocate the bundle out of the way, and problem solved.

Thanks for the review. I'd seen these online before and wondered about them. (google is a wonderful search engine..... hint) Since our bikes can accomadate a HD slip on exhaust with the special brackets, would there be much of a sound difference from the Peacemaker made for RSV and one made for HD installed on a RSV? Or are they the same part number? It would be interesting to see / hear a video clip with these pipes on a RSV.. Cheers

If I remember correctly, the location of the elbow on the fuel line is mostly there to facilitate the routing more than anything else.. there's nothing much near it as its located down by the battery area behind the engine. I think it might simply be used to avoid kinking?

I relocated my fuel filter for easier access and used a low pressure OEM hose off the shelf at a local shop.. very inexpensive. Just ensure there isn't a chance of the line bending enough to kink and starve the pump.. Other than that, yer good to go!

the gent with the 2010 RSV doesn't have levelling links (he didn't know what they were). I had a somewhat similar experience a couple of years ago around this time of year which resolved itself with a good application of Seafoam in the tank.. My thoughts at the time was that due to the age of the bike, over time fuel might have gummed up the works or that the 'winter fuel' formula they use up here might have given a different reading.. The problem went away a few weeks later when things warmed up nicely.. well nicer anyway....

Here's a new one I haven't heard about before. I'd been asked by a gent who owns a 2010 RSV with 50,000 kms on it about this issue.. He says that on a recent long trip he had filled his fuel tank way up to the brim while sitting on it in the upright position, trickling in the fuel until all the air bubbles passed through, squeezing in as much fuel as possible for each leg of his trip.. a little squirt of the fuel nozzle at a time until he could get no more in the tank etc.. Now he's noticing that when ever he's fueling up and filling the tank up to the bottom of the tube, the fuel gauge always reads one notch lower than it should.. At a full fuel fuel tank, it's ready one notch down from full etc.. He's feels that he might have 'bent' something on the fuel sensor floats or something.. Ever hear or experienced anything similar to this?

Consider the fact that the manual recommends 38 psi rear and 36 psi front for a "typical" rider of 160 lbs. Dunno about you, but some people aren't that light at this stage of life For some, we might be riding like a person and a half up.. I typically ride my E3's with 40 in the rear and 38 in the front.. for me, this gives me the best handling and longevity for the life of the tire.

I tried the PCW a while back and though it works well and less expensive than the Barnett, I felt it left the friction zone application a little too far out for my liking.. (the clutch lever had to go out a lot more than OEM to engage the friction zone..) I then installed the Barnett spring and plates and prefered it as it left the friction where it felt more comfortable for me and felt more effective for my needs. You'll feel the extra pressure when you pull on the clutch lever, so its something you will have to get used to. Depending how bad your steel or friction plates are, you might be able to get away with just sanding the steel plates to remove the shine from them. I had replaced the all the steel and friction plates with the Barnett ones and never looked back. Your budget and riding style would most likely dictate which will work best for your needs. The installation of both types is rather simple and easy to do.

I installed the Pioneer KTP-445U 4 channel 45W RMSx4 which matched well with the Polk speakers. Audio is louder and clearer, and stero in all 4 speakers. Easy to install and wire in when installed under the front fairing.

I had a similar thing happen to mine last year.. I had recently replaced the battery on my 06 when the OEM wouldn't hold a charge, and everything was fine till late last fall.. full charge but the bike acted like it would not kick over, but it would eventually and run fine.. I did find that my radio controller would lose its settings and the trip ODO would reset when ever it had that 'kick over' situation.. Then this winter, nothing.. hit the starter switch and nothing would happen.. Hmmm Full charge on the battery, once I did get it running again, the charging system checked OK.. I took the starter switch apart and found it to be corroded.. not by much, mind you. A few passes of emery cloth across the contacts to shine it up and not a hint of problems after that. Surprising how little corrosion can cause it not to work properly. Its not hard to check, you never know.

On my 2006, I have them identified and running as follows: Rear right Blue + Brown - Rear left Red + Green + Front right Orange + Black - Front left White + yellow - coming into this connector which is not the same colour coding the OP had found on his..?!

Hi Gary, here's the short version pin out.. rear left speaker: RED + GREEN - rear right speaker: BLUE + BROWN - front right speaker: ORANGE + BLACK - front left speaker: WHITE + YELLOW - cheers

I don't use the headset intercom system on my bike but I don't think the amp has any effect on it since it's placed in between the source and speaker output wires, while the headset is cabled through another set of cables.. Not sure..

I finally sorted out the rear speaker wiring, and as it turns out, the book may be wrong in that it shows but a single common wire coming out of the radio and going to both speakers that then share a common ground.. After running the meter and doing the AA battery trick through the connector (three cables out of the radio unit into one connector), I was able to locate the two individual sets of wires for the left and right speakers by isolating them. Now there could be some FM (freaking magic) happening after the connector where all four wires might go into two wires, I haven't been able to find it.. So in the end I was able to install the amp under the fairing and do all the wiring from the front without having to run extra wires to the rear of the bike and taking apart the trunk area to gain access to the speakers.. What I ended up with is one heck of a loud sound system on this bike with the Polk speakers.. Are the rear speakers mono or stereo? Well when playing "Night Flight To Venus" by Boney M, you can hear the drums roll from left to right.. just like the front speakers.. I'd say that's stereo.. I'll get some pics and schematics before buttoning it up, if anyone is interested.. Cheers

I had installed progressive springs in my RSV a few years ago. Apart from the ability to eat bumps and pot holes better, the biggest difference I had noticed was a lot less nose dive when being aggressive on the front brake. Instead of the front of the bike pitching down which causes the rear of the bike's weight to shift forward and up, reducing traction with the road (rear tire skid), the bike now feels like it hunkers down evenly and more sure footed, thereby reducing braking distance. Though the rear wheel can still skid if too much rear brake is applied, it's less apt to do so with progressive springs in the front. I also find it more sure footed in sweeping curves on uneven roads.. With the progressive springs, leveling links and Works rear shock, I find my bike a lot more nimble than when it was stock, allowing me to toss the bike around a lot better and with more confidence. The handling is so much better.. But that's me, your YMMV...