Jump to content

Gdserlin

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    43

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Gdserlin

  1. Gdserlin
    Remove the rear caliper and try to judge how difficult it is to seat the pistons flush. If one piston requires more effort than the other, this is probably your answer, in that one of the pistons is hanging up. Pop the pistons out and clean the bore lightly with emery cloth, replace the seals. However, I would actually bet your issue is in the rear master cycliner. They draging rear brake is common. You probably disoldged some gunk and now it is impeding some flow within the master. I had this happen on the highway on a hot day. The fix it to remove the rear master, disamble and clean with brake clean and compressed air. Not a difficult job and my repair turned out fine, and I did not replace any seal etcs... just cleaned.
  2. Gdserlin
    Sorry I could not located the specs here. Can anyone tell me the torque specs for installation of the rear wheel. Thank you.
  3. Gdserlin
    On a road trip. Smell raw fuel more at idle. Bike runs well, I think, at highway speed. Idle is not right. gas milage down to maybe 30. I did about 400.miles yestetday. This AM before start up, I removed left side cover. I discovered fuel droplets on the screw just below what I would call the throttle shaft spring. I took a picture but I tried to upload and I was unable to upload the picture. I am typing with a touch screen smart phone please excuse any typos Any thoughts on what I am dealing with, stuck or misadjusted float ? Appreciate the help. Point of reference . There is a screw above the on where fuel is a accumulating and one below. The screw above is much larger.
  4. Gdserlin
    Thank you to all. I think with the photos I can make this work!
  5. Gdserlin
    I did the stator and starter clutch on my 89. I had a moment as they say, I didn't appreciate the difficulty posed by the re installation of the shifter linkage. I convinced myself that I had it right a couple of times. I was wrong. If anyone can grab a few photos from a few different angles, it would be a big help. I appreciate the help. Thanks to you all.
  6. Gdserlin
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49023&highlight=coil+connection also do a search under "coil connection"
  7. Gdserlin
    I used the 'Badboy" horn/compressor all in one unit. about $ 40.00. I mounted this where the the TCI unit was originaly mounted. I have previously relocated the TCI to top of the air filiter. The horn fit very well, is protected from water (mostly) and is still very loud. I mounted a 20 amp relay inside the left fairing under the radio. I wired the power through the factory horns which are still in operation. The factory horn swtich works well. I think I gave the horn it's own fused circuit as well, but I am not certain.
  8. Gdserlin
    I am looking for the plastic panels left side of the fairing where the radio and tape player mount. There is an upper and lower panel which form the mounting system.
  9. Gdserlin
    I finally mounted my Bad Boy horn inside the frame where the TCI was originally mounted. Obviously, you must first relocate the TCI, which is time consuming. I relocated the TCI last summer. I installed the horn this summer. The horn is still very loud even though it is ”inside” and the horn is also well protected. The OEM horns remain in the circuit as well.
  10. Gdserlin
    I had the identical symptoms, but the problem was in the board. A break in an internal solder point in the board is temporaliy rectified when you push on the connector. That's my guess. Pull the board out, get a magnifying glass out, and inspect . Make sure you read all the posts here about finding and fixing bad solder joints in the board. Good luck, it aint that difficult.
  11. Gdserlin
    Sent you payment by snail mail on Wed. Hopefully you received, let me know if you don't see it by today. Thanks , Gerry Serlin
  12. Gdserlin
    For a quick fix, go to Napa. You can buy a singles relacement "tube" for the glass fuse or a little ruber container that accepts the plastic spade fuse. All you need is a soldering gun, connector and heat shrink, but the electrical tape in a bottle will work. The OEM fuse holders are not worth replacing with used parts. The NAPA fix will cost you less then $ 5.00 for the parts.
  13. Gdserlin
    Thanks guys. Unless someone tells me its going to cause havok, I am going to try the one input wire block. I checked the wiring diagram and I do not see any likelyhood of it interfering, but I guess I will find out if I am wrong......................
  14. Gdserlin
    I am attempting to upgrade the glass fuse box to a plastic Buss type. I read a thread awhile back where one of the members did this, but of course I cannot now find it. Here is my issue. The original glass fuse block isolates the incoming power for each circuit, ie, headlight, turn, brake, ignition etc.. The replacement block has one incoming terminal for all outputs. There is no way to isolate the incoming power for each circuit. I determined that with the exception of the accessory circuit, the remaining circuits are all hot once the ignition is switched to the on position. The accessory circuit is hot (not surprisingly) once the key is turned to ACC. I could isolate the Accessory circuit with those individual rubber blade type fuse sockets and run the remaining circuits through the new block. My thought was to simply strip the wires, wind them together solder them to a heavier gauge wire and terminate at the hot terminal on the new block. I am hesitant to this because somewhere along the line I thought I read that there was a reason each of the circuits has its own individual hot feed in the original glass fuse box, in particular the lighting circuit. I don’t want to fry anything and somehow I think my plan is to easy. Any ideas out there?
  15. Gdserlin
    I had the same problem with the gasket. I ordered a new thermo cover and gasket from "Boats.net". Got the part number from the diagrams somewhere on this web site. It was not expenseive, less then $ 15.00 but took about 10 days. If the gasket cannot be removed, then my experience was that that it would leak when reisntalled and ordering a new thermo cover was the only solution. I also added 4 gauge cables (made my own) and a new sealed gell battery (Odessy PC ___can't remember). This made a big difference. However, I wish I had known about adding the extra wire. I think I will do that as well. But I cannot visualize where this "jumper" wire goes.
  16. Gdserlin
    Thankyou to everyone for the help. The pictures were very helpful.
  17. Gdserlin
    Hey everyone, I am relocating the TCI on top of the Air Box. My ride an 89 Venture. I rerouted the wires to allow for enough clearance, but I cannot get enough clearance to comfortably put the false tank back on without real stressing the false tank. The best fit I have gotten so far is the TCI sitting atop the airbox, ear touching the battery ( I have a little extra room in the batter box because I installed the Odesy), connectors facing the left side fairing (The AM-FM Side). If I cut the ears off the box, I think I will have it. However, I am reluctant to do this, unless I am going to be successful in my relocation. HELP anyone who has done this.
  18. Gdserlin
    I am getting ready, to move the TCI to the top of the air filter. I wonder if there is enough room in the original spot for the TCI to fit the BADBOY horn.
×
×
  • Create New...