Jayceesfolly

Brad: Thanks for the part number and the dealer. I will call them tomorrow morning (Saturday)and also was planning on calling Pioneer. They are an outstanding dealer and have ordered parts from them before. Always have had great service from Pioneer. Jim

Gary, will send PM in a half hour.

Took a ride today and lost the clutch and all the fluid. Today was the hottest day so far this year, in the low 90's and half way thru the ride I had no clutch handle. Reservoir was dry and must have leaked thru the slave. The clutch has been working fine with no leaks or issues until now. Where can I buy a new assembly and get it delivered before I go to Don's MD? Otherwise I will have to cancel the MD trip. Jim

Mike G: The converter worked great for me and it was cheap. R and P Carriages shipped right away and were great to work with. Would definitely purchase from them again. They also have some great LED lights ("safety chrome" to me) that are very reasonably priced and are good quality. Jim

Yes, only want to do it once. Got the three screws out that hold the stator in the cover. They are Loctited but came out easily with a screw driver. I was planning on using red Loctite because the TB calls for red. Should I use blue instead? I am not planning on doing this again. BTW, it takes longer to clean the old gasket off the mating surfaces than it does to do the whole job!

Thanks, Jeff. I am sure the clip is in there. See my reply above. Jim

Thanks Carl and Mike for your quick response. I printed out the TB sheet and compared it to the cover housing and I do have the kit installed. Carl, I couldn't get the bolt out because I don't have an impact wrench (need a trip to my favorite store... HF!!!. Now where did "The Boss" put my credit cards???). Didn't want to drill it out and leave chips in the shaft, so will leave it alone. Must be hardened anyway. Used a paper clip to check hole and it is open and there is a spring wire in there as the wire would only go in about a 1/2 inch, so I am sure the wire clip is in there. Then took a very fine wire (about .012") and that went in about 4 inches and then stopped, so I assume the bolt passage is open all the way. Mike, thanks for the TB, that makes it easy to see what the wire kit is and how it was installed. Thanks to both of you. You are what makes this Forum such a great place to be. Jim

As the title says, found the problem. Got a new stator today and will install tomorrow. The second pic is of the end of the shaft and I thought that there was some kind of spray nozzle on there to spray oil on the stator to keep it cool. Anybody know anything about it???

I bought this converter for my HF trailer and it works perfectly. All trailer lights run off separate circuit to protect the bikes wiring. I put a fuse in line with the red wire. Good company to deal with and quick shipping. P and R Carriages on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Light-Isolated-Power-Supply-Converter-5-to-4-wire-PM32-/290660635436?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43acb9532c&vxp=mtr Jim

Phil: I was there but didn't complete the ride because my stator went out and my battery died. Rode back to Rochester on just the battery. I pulled the headlight fuse before I left Waterloo and that helped on the battery drain. Have a new stator on order and hope to be back in business by the weekend. Jim

Herb: Thank you, my thoughts exactly. After 47 years, I still can't talk about it and probably never will. Jim

Thanks for the info and help, Bob. I charged the battery and rechecked the voltage coming out of the stator (three white wires) and got 10.3; 10.6; 7.1 volts at 2500 RPM's. At idle the voltages were in the 3-4 volt range. Jeff: Thanks for the offer but I have ordered a HO stator from Rick's Motorsports. It should be here Wednesday morning. Thanks to all for your help. Jim

Bob: I have a part number of 26H-81410-12-00, from the Yamaha parts site and says it fits '86 to '89 VR.

I don't know if they are the same, I will try to find some part numbers and see if they match.

Thanks, Bob. I checked to see if any of the legs were shorted to ground but all three checked good, no short.

The battery died on my 89 VR today and I think the stator is bad. The gauge on the dash is of little to no help but noticed that is was reading lower the last few weeks. The Bike refused to start (turn over) when I stopped for gas. Two people in the gas station pushed me and I managed to make it home, but the voltage gauge was reading on the edge of the yellow mark. Measure the output of the stator and found the following results: Unplugged stator wire and measured the voltage at the three white wires: At idle they measured 5.8, 5.3, 3.1 (AC) At 2500 RPM’s they measured 9.3, 9.6, 5.3 (AC) Note: The battery was partially discharged and reading 11.8 volts across the terminals, so I don’t know if this would affect the readings. I am charging the battery now but will be a few hours before it is up to par. BTW, it is a Deka AGM battery. Checked each leg for continuity and got .40; .50; .50 ohms . Meter wouldn’t measure any lower but these are in the proper range according to the online manual. Should be .34 to .85 ohms. Also checked for grounding on each leg and that measured 0, which means that the wires are not shorted to ground. To compound the problem, I put a new Shindigen R/R Model #FH0012AA in the bike yesterday. I wired this direct to the battery (the black and red lead using #10 gauge wire & 30 amp fuse) and did not use the original plug where the old R/R was plugged in. I made a new harness for the 3 white wires coming from the stator and plugged that into the new R/R. I unplugged both plugs from the old R/R and just left it where it was installed down on the rear frame. So, two questions: Do I need a new stator? Did I screw something up by running the new stator direct to the battery instead of going thru the original plug and wiring harness (the black & red wire)? And if I need a new stator where is the best place to buy one? Jim

Bob: I have a SWR meter. If you want to travel to Rochester, I will help you tune your antenna. Make a day trip of it and we will do DQ when you get here. :fnd_(16): Jim

Don: Paypal sent...1 each 2xl size. Thanks Jim

I have 4 pair of the Diamond Gusset jeans and I wear them all the time (ATGATT). They are pricey but as Kevin said....regular jeans only last about 2 seconds on asphalt. How much is your skin worth? I have not been unlucky enough to find out how good the DG jeans are, and I don't want to find out, but they are comfortable and not any hotter than regular jeans. IMHO, well worth the protection and peace of mind. They are very comfortable and have extra deep pockets and a watch pocket on the left side instead of the customary right side, plus a cell phone pocket w/velcro on the side of the leg for easy access when sitting on the bike. The sizing chart tells how to order and they fit me perfectly. They are true to size. After wearing them for an hour you forget that they are two layers of cloth and are very comfortable. I also have 2 pair of Draggin Jeans and they are the same construction as The Diamond Gusset. All of above comments also pertain to Draggin Jeans. Jim

Great idea! 2x for me.

Dr. had me do the same thing that Easy Rider and Pic did. 50 cent insert and Poly insert. Pain gone in a month. After a couple of months, no longer used them. Now when my feet bother me I slip the inserts in and in a day or two my feet are fine. Good information from them. Jim

I am going to be pulling a trailer to the Int'l, so what happens WHEN I win the trailer and end up with two of them. Can I pull "doubles" back to New York????? This dilemma brings up a number of options: 1. Sell the old trailer and donate money to SAF Fund. 2. Make two trips to IL to pick up second trailer. 3. Have it shipped common carrier to NY. 4. Organize a trailer relay. 5. Have Rick deliver it to NY on his trailer (Service next to none!!!!) 6. Buy a second bike and have someone ride it to NY (Yeah, this is practical!!!....plus "The Boss" would hit me with a frying pan!) (Ouch!) None of these ideas sound too good. What should I do WHEN I win??? PS: always think on the positive side! Jim

Barry....I want to know how much money all those people paid you to say all those nice things about them?????? :whistling: :rotf: Well, SOMEBODY had to ask!!! But, I agree with you....the people on this site are the best ever. I have received advice and help from a lot of people on this Forum and I think of this group as a family. Bongobob got it right.......quote "You will eventually discover, as many of us have, that this is more than a website, it is family!!!" unquote Jim

May want to do the "Seafoam soak" on the carbs. Help clean out the gunk from sitting so long.

I agree with RSTDdog....use good straps. They are the only thing keeping your investment in place. It only takes one panic stop to break the cheap straps and then you will have a discussion with your insurance co.. Also, I don't' recommend straps on the handlebars. It is very hard to position them without touching plastic parts and if the straps are in the grip area it may be possible to bend the bars due to the stress of bouncing up and down and how tight the straps are pulled during initial installation Always try to use frame members to secure straps. I use six straps... two on each side in an X pattern and one to the front, usually to hold front wheel in chock and one directly to the rear to keep bike from going forward in a panic stop. I usually remove the windshield unless the front of the trailer is covered to protect the windshield from rocks and debris thrown from the car wheels. Just my Jim