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Semi-retired

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  1. Semi-retired
    Attaboy! Your lungs will forgive you in no time! In another month or two, you'll try a smoke.....and with any luck, you'll gag, and wonder, "How in the hell did I ever do that 20 times a day?!?!?" Congratulations!!
  2. Semi-retired
    Pretty sure I saw elsewhere that the Gen 1 shocks don't fit the Gen 2. Too bad, especially if they last!
  3. Semi-retired
    Guess I got spoiled by my Suzuki GS1100G shafty: same rear shocks for 24 years!
  4. Semi-retired
    Hey, guys....thanks for the great responses. (I'm hoping for more to roll in, especially to get a better feeling for what people are using who AREN'T getting a FREE replacement under warranty. Gary, the fact that at least two of you mentioned you "hardly felt any difference" (even though you knew it had puked out its oil) seems strange....but at least that sort of confirms what Craig says about not getting "stranded" by this thing if I DO keep riding it. Brian, thanks for the guidance to the "other" site for the step-by-step. (Not a problem that they're using a Works replacement...I might be, too!) Gunk......I REALLY appreciate your offer to help me swap this thing out some afternoon....but, not sure if my brain could stand the 9 hour (return) trip up and down the 401. (Don't count me out, though.....you never know how chicken I might get when I look under this thing...or try to balance it on my crappy jack!) Alain, EVERYBODY must be picking up replacements from 'wreckers'; Zdeno didn't even have one........and they ALWAYS have EVERYTHING!! Based on how frequently these things fail.......and based on how many 2nd Gens there are on the road......there must be dozens of riders who've replaced this puppy OUT OF WARRANTY. May we hear from a few more of you, please. (It appears there's lots of interest!!) Thanks again to everyone for all the info.........keep it coming! Mike
  5. Semi-retired
    Sorry if these questions are answered elsewhere...but I HAVE (honest!) done quite a bit of reading and not found some of them (I swear!!) 1. What percentage of replaced rear shocks are done in/out of warranty (can I see a show of hands?) I only ask because no one seems TOO pissed about having to spend 500 bucks on a hardly used machine! 2. Is there a "Remove and Replace" step-by-step description of the job anywhere on our site? (I've seen several comments regarding how much OTHER crap actually has to be removed to get at the shock....but no DEFINITIVE procedure.) 3. Of all you guys who HAVE replaced these at your own expense...what all different brands have been used? i.e. How many of you went with Works.....how many YSS.....etc. AND, are you happy with your solution...AND how much DID it cost you? 4. Last but not least.......I'm not REAL anxious to crawl under my bike and/or hoist it up on a jack before I absolutely have to...so, if I procrastinate (as I usually do on stuff like this) will I be one VERY sorry guy, stuck out in the boondocks when the thing finally goes COMPLETELY south on me (it's only leaked a couple of ounces of oil so far...but is still working not too badly.) Will I be left sitting with a wheel/tire jammed so far up under my fender that I'll have to call CAA? Thanks for as many answers as you have time for. Mike P.S. I'm out of warranty....it's an '03.....so I gotta say I'M pretty pissed that I'm spending this much money for a 'mission critical' part on a bike with only 34,000KM on it. (20Kmiles). It's not the quality I've come to expect from ANYTHING Japanese. (Toyota Camry jokes notwithstanding........cause I own one of those, too!.....but at least that was paid for by the company......and it didn't sack out my rear wheels!)
  6. Semi-retired
    Wow. I'm surprised to hear you say that, buddy; I've changed my bulb two or three times........have never found any twisting or turning of the rubber boot necessary. Just, Pull Off..........Push On. Seems to work for me. Mine's an '03. Do you suppose different years are different? Just my 2 cents. Mike
  7. Semi-retired
    Thanks, Kent. Looks like it's "NEW" we go! Guess I should order it now, (even though the bike isn't draggin its butt on the ground yet) just in case all the parts guys plan a big "year-end" price increase!! LOL Thanks again, everybody, for all your input. Mike
  8. Semi-retired
    I SEE that now, Lilbeaver: `03 version over 500 bucks..........`10 version 430!! Why is that? Is there NO difference between the two? If they're identical.....or at least so close as to not have ANY installation or function issues, I wonder why PartShark wouldn't bring this to light and rationalize their inventory. (Or, at least add a note somewhere like "They're close enough to use either one: pay us MORE for the old one.....or LESS for the new one......YOUR CHOICE!" I don't get it. Has anyone else installed the newer, cheaper shock on an older model bike? (Sorry to sound like an 'untrusting, skeptical, cheap-ass, sum*****......I just REALLY can't afford to make mistakes that cost money these days!! )
  9. Semi-retired
    Looks like the price has gone up a bit! (High demand, no doubt!!) 1 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEM 99999-03500-00 (replaces 4XY-22210-00-00) 1 $719.40 $508.53 They show 719 as `retail`.......508 as òur price`.
  10. Semi-retired
    So.........at the end of the day........(as "they" like to say)......is there a CHEAP/SMART/ALTERNATE way to fix this thing other than paying 700 bucks to have the dealer do it? (Or am I guessing way to low.....and the part ALONE is 700???) Thanks for any tips/tricks from my fellow cheapskates!! (Read: rather spend it on beer!)
  11. Semi-retired
    Thanks for your feedback, Boomer. Please let me know how/when you plan to proceed. Based on the amount of oil I see coming out of mine........we can't ride for long once it starts. (almost makes me HOPE for snow so I don't have to feel bad about not being able to ride!) Anybody know how long these things typically take to go COMPLETELY south? I was out on my '03 for a bit today.....and it was either already starting to sound a little "mechanical".....or, it was just my imagination running wild in anticipation of have ZERO suspension. So......will I be able to squeeze another 600 miles (1000 kliks) out of it?
  12. Semi-retired
    What a disappointment, that a manufacturer with a name as prominent as Yamaha would create such an expensive apparatus with no known way to repair it. Inasmuch as 'everything is relative'.....this is kind of the equivalent of say, BMW, saying "Nope, sorry......you're going to have to throw away your starter motor......it's impossible to repair, even for an experienced journeyman mechanic." (I say that thinking that would never happen.......but, hoping I haven't just jinxed my 325's starter motor!!) Has anyone EVER taken Yamaha U.S.A. to task on this issue? Any results in writing? I'd love to see their justification (if they even deemed it worthy of a reply/argument). Signed: leaking oil......and pissed!
  13. Semi-retired
    I just spoke to a fella named Tom at Unifilter and he confirmed that they do NOT currently have a filter in stock built specifically for the Gen 2 RSV. He says to keep an eye on the online catalogue and that they should have one produced in the next month or so. (I guess they're going to buy an OEM one and copy/adapt it as quickly as they can!) That's the latest, up-to-datest.........so if anyone's in desperate need of a filter before year end, I guess it's K&N or stock. Cheers, Mike
  14. Semi-retired
    Yeah, Harold......that's exactly what I was asking myself this morning. I sent an email to UNI and asked them the exact same thing. Will let you know what answer I get! Mike
  15. Semi-retired
    In my constant quest to bring new meaning to the phrase "cheap screw".....I'm currently looking for a way to replace my air cleaner elements that won't cost an arm and a leg. If anyone's got an idea for an alternate paper element (i.e. sourced from anywhere other than the factory)......or a completely different setup (but please not K$N....oops did I make a Freudian spelling error there?......) I'm open to suggestions.......just not expensive ones. Hey, I'm even up for crazy ideas like dry-cleaning my stock ones.......IF it would work! Thanks for anything, Mike
  16. Semi-retired
    Yessireebob! I charged the crap out of that new battery with my "full-power", 4 Amp regular charger. It was reading close to 13 Volts before I fired up Bertha........and I made a point of riding for no less than half an hour (with no radio turned on) on my first three or four times out on the road. (I KNOW those short milk runs are death on batteries!) One month later, things still seem fine. I think it's my Winter battery regimen that will have to be reviewed and OBEYED!! Later, Michael
  17. Semi-retired
    Yes, indeed, it DOES look sweet!! I see you have the chrome Stebel airhorn mounted in the "standard" position. Just wondered...have you ever had any thoughts about mounting it in a more "hearable" position? Or maybe adding a second one? The reason I ask is, my Stebel is in the same location, and after trying to use it several (almost a dozen) times to remind my upfront riding partner (unsuccessfully) to cancel the signal lights on his 99 Intruder....I'm wondering if the sound is traveling as well as it coulda/woulda/shoulda. It sounds loud as hell to me....as I'm sure yours does to you!!.....it's like a locomotive......but since I was within 100 feet of my buddy and he appeared not to hear me on about every second blast (maybe he was just ignoring me )....I'm worried now how effective my Stebel really is with rolled up window cages on the road ahead. ??? Thoughts??? The horn does make young girls on the sidewalk almost jump out of their shorts (who, me? beep at good looking lasses???), but then, when you think about it, that's exactly where the outlet of the horn is pointed. I wonder what the "up front/off axis" decibel rating is in comparison to the "side fire" level. Anyone got any opinions or read any reports on this? Thanks for any info. Michael
  18. Semi-retired
    Good point, Dave. I'll remember to specify/clarify in the future. (I especially don't wanna "mess with Texas"!!) Best regards from Niagara... Michael
  19. Semi-retired
    Hey, Kent......didn't mean to send you off on a wild GOOSE (arh, arh) chase. The (logical) reason this post got 'resurrected' was because I was mining the technical forum to find as much information as I could about bleeding the clutch on the RSV.....and when I came across a message that sounded like someone had the same problem I do.....(even though it was two years ago)......and the answer was, "Oh, just send so-and-so a PM (private message) and he'll be glad to help you out".......it was a disappointment, and seemed to defeat the purpose of having a public forum, where EVERYBODY gets to share the knowledge by reading a published solution. Knowledge is power........and god knows we need all we can find on how to spend more time riding and less time fixing! :-) Michael
  20. Semi-retired
    No offense intended..........but why would you suggest a "PM" when inquiring minds always want to know? Michael
  21. Semi-retired
    I appreciated receiving such a wide range of wisdom from a wide range of commentators....but, in the end, knowing that a) I have little patience for multiple tests under multiple conditions following multiple sequences.....and b) that the bike AND its battery were working fine last summer (before I totally neglected BOTH all winter long)......I opted for the quick, easy (albeit somewhat expensive) $120 solution and traded in my questionable battery (to get the core exchange refund) and put a brand new "unquestionable"12V baby in the bike. Everything's been running fine for about two weeks since the new one went in. Mind you, I HAVE picked up on a couple of those suggestions about turning off the radio AND the kill switch every time I park for the night. I haven't bothered hooking up the tender each night, but I may do that when rides get fewer and farther between, closer to Fall. Thanks again for everyone's input. Michael
  22. Semi-retired
    If your fairing is off........it's ALWAYS easier to replace the headlight lamp without having to dig in from behind. If you were thinking about being able to see a little better while night riding, maybe now's the time to pick up one of those SilverStar lamps that double your brightness and width. (they burn out twice as fast, mind you......but, heh.......there's no free lunch, right?) Have fun! Mike
  23. Semi-retired
    Thanks, again, to all contributors! I'll be sure to post a "resolution statement" here sometime over the next few days so that we can all learn a little more about RSV electrics based on my particular scenario. Hopefully the bottom line is going to be that the bike's components are all OK and that it's a case of a battery gone tired before it's time due to winter neglect and NOT ENOUGH RIDING!! Thankfully, I know the solutions to BOTH of these concerns. (The first one being a little easier to rectify than the second one. ) Cheers, Mike
  24. Semi-retired
    Hi, guys. Thanks VERY much for all the tips and tricks on the battery quandary, gang. Rick, you out-did yourself. (was your response lifted straight out of your PHD thesis by any chance? It certainly was comprehensive!) I'm curious to know what you think of some of the other, less sophisticated (no offense, guys) solutions involving things as mundane as just hooking up to a tender when I pull in to the garage.....? (I'm assuming the folks that mentioned that one must actually PACK a small tender with them when they go on the road?) I had a 'busy' winter with some knee surgery, my son's wedding and a few other brain-scramblers....so, I'm thinking I probably didn't pay as much attention to the old battery as I should have. So, it's probably sulfated, as someone suggested. Here's my plan of attack: Charge the crap out of the battery......then take it in to a battery place for a load test (thanks, Rick, Squid and Brian.) If it comes up looking like a loser (and it very well may, based on the way I've neglected it).....then maybe I'll try the tender thing (I do have one) while I'm doing my short-run rides around town. (Not that I'm cheap.......I'm just thinking a few amps overnight will end up costing me less than a new battery.) When I leave town for any overnight stays, perhaps I'll pack momma's little helper in my saddlebag, just in case. If the problem prevails, I'll bite the bullet and buy a new brick.......and take care of it next Winter.......promise!! If/when I DO get the new battery and it has problems (even if I AM giving it TLC).....then I'll get into the PHD material, kindly supplied by Rick. (I WILL check some of those readings you gave me, Rick, just out of curiosity......and to impress the hell out of wifey.....she'll be the one holding the leads on the multi-meter while I'm twiddling all the knobs and switches!) Thanks again, guys, for all your time and attention!
  25. Semi-retired
    Anyone got any ideas about what sequence of diagnostic checks I might make for this problem? - I go to start my bike......the battery is close to dead.....might get half a turn on the starter, then just clickety click. (this is after it's been out, running around town several times already this Spring.........I'm in the land of ice and snow, so we're now "in season") - I put the battery on the 4-amp charger for an hour - The bike then fires up fine. Take if for a half hour ride. Stop for coffee, whatever. Starts fine again. Come home and park it. Next day, starts fine. Same routine. - HOWEVER......leave the bike parked for two or three days.....and, bingo, back to line #1. Questions: 1. How do I find out if it's the battery or the charging system? 2. Is there a particular reading I should get off the battery at each point in my scenarios, above? Thanks for any guidance. (Ordinarily, I'd just go out and buy a new battery........but I thought I did that LAST year!! Alzheimer's strikes deep, though......and I'm not really sure!! LOL) Mike
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