Jump to content

dans87vr

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dans87vr

  1. Mine is the motion pro, here is a link from dennis kirk http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p282760&leafCatId=&mmyId=
  2. I didn't purchase a carbtune, but got one from dennis kirk. It came with a multi port manifold (6 hose connections on one plastic tube). In the instructions it said to connect all 4 lines to one carb to calibrate the sync tool (get all 4 bars level). It had adjustment screws at the bottom of each bar on the sync tool. Before I sync my carbs I do this procedure just to make sure all four levels are the same. After the first time there has been little or no adjustment needed to calibrate the sync tool. Most auto stores will have a multi port hose connector or using 3 T-connectors will also get the job done.
  3. I put E III's on front and back of my 87 VR, only put 25 miles on so far this year. Here in Minnesnowta don't get too many nice days this time of year. But I did notice a big difference, but both old tires had at least 10 K on them (Dunlap 491's). I also no longer have the front end shakes when you let go of the bars, it wasnt bad only happened under 40 when slowing down but now it doesnt happen at all. And no I dont make it a habit of letting go of the bars. Seems like a new bike, new tires, rear bearings, clutch and brakes cant wait for the next 60 degree day!!!!!!!!! Actually it is a new bike with only 700 miles -- opps I guess it has 100700 miles.......
  4. I have 100652 miles, and I average 38 to 42 mpg on my 87.
  5. OK, I have an 87 with the 4 piston calipers, would the SBS or EBS be too aggressive on the rear. I guess that was actually my main question, this is a heavy bike and you dont want the rear tire locking up unless you need it. Currently when using the foot brake it seemed weak, like I would have to stand on it to get the rear tire to lockup. I have checked the whole system out and its in great shape other than the rear pads were 2/3rds used up. One thing I noticed is on the rear caliper there was an indent like it would keep the front part of the pads from only going in too far when they get worn down. I'm guessing this is a safety thing, and also caused the weak rear braking. I have only put one summer on this bike, (6000 miles) but plan on several more I know there are several of you that have put 100K plus on the first gens Thanks
  6. From doing some checking at denniskirk they list several different pads that are made from different materials. Organic Ceramic Metalic kevlar But I will take your advice on the EBC HH Thanks
  7. From what I could tell the EBC pads are metalic?? Thanks
  8. Putting new brake pads front and back on my 87 VR, would like some info on which pads to use. From what I have read I should use the following configuration. Rear - standard Organic/Carbon Front - Metal Looking for some advice because there is also Kevlar and Ceramic. I purchased this ride last May and now in the process of putting on new tires front and back (going to use Dunlap 3's) and putting in new rear wheel bearings and clutch. Had to put new diaphrams, plugs, wires and Caps last year. Thanks Dan
  9. I purchased a sync tool it wasnt the same as yours but it came with a hose fitting that allowed me to connect all 4 into one. It actually had 6 hose fittings on it so I just capped one. So all 4 lines were connected to it, one was pluged and the last one connected to carb 1 with a short 6 inch hose. here are the steps I used to sync my 87VR as instructed from users manual 1. connect all 4 sync hoses to a single carb with fitting 2. start engine and level all 4 readings VIA adjusting screws on the sync tool 3. once all 4 are level, stop engine, remove fitting and then connect a hose to each carb 4. start engine and sync carbs. I would recommend checking the sync tool before digging into the carbs. Three "T" connectors, and 3 short pieces of hose would allow you to do the same thing. I do however think most auto parts stores have the multiport hose connectors if you can find one with 5 or 6 that would be the way to go.
  10. Loud pipes may get someones attention, but I believe its up to you to create your own safety zone. Been cut off just as many times in my cage as the bike, you can almost tell who will cut you off. The one thing louder pipes (just over stock) do help with are the critters big and small. In my younger days always had loud pipes on cars and never even came close to any deer. As I got older all cars had stock quiet exhaust (except the hotrod) and have hit one deer and clipped a couple. That being said I know to watch for deer and people more with the stock quiet exhaust creating the safety zone acording to where I am at and dont rely on loud exhaust. why create something so loud you cant hear yourself think, (must be the ones who dont think)............ dan
  11. I have only had my 87 VR 4 weeks, but When I change the oil in my cars I will usually dump in a half quart with the drain plug out. You can watch the the color change from black to clear for the most part, and after the stick is nice and clean.
  12. Purchased one from Dennis Kirk (denniskirk.com) two weeks ago and they had 4 in stock, cost 105.00
  13. I just replaced Plugs, Wires, and Plug caps along with other things on my 87 VR. It made a big difference, purchased plugs from NAPA but Wires and Caps came from Dennis Kirk (denniskirk.com). Cost was minimal and I did a ohm before and after, before all 4 were around 10K and after was 5K. 6 foot cooper wire $2.95 x 2 (you need just over 7 feet) P/N 20-21 2 NGK straight plug ends $3.30 x 2 P/N 20-302 2 NGK angled plug ends $3.30 x 2 P/N 20-304
  14. I just purchased one, never had a sync tool before and it works great. Purchased from Dennis Kirk and comes with everything needed.
×
×
  • Create New...