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BigShell

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Everything posted by BigShell

  1. BigShell
    Thanks. Just let me know when you're ready and I'll send you shipping money. I don't need the whole bar. The cut off ends should fit in a small flat rate box or envelope.
  2. BigShell
    Not sure where Middlefield is. I plan to catch 362 off I10 at Brookshire. Looks like maybe a 3 1/2 hour ride from Floresville. I plan to leave around 0700... which means I'll be lucky to be rolling by 0730! If I'm late, save some food! Can't decide between enchiladas and fajitas... or BOTH!
  3. BigShell
    You going to toss the bent bars? If you are, I would like the nuts that are welded in the bars that hold the bar weights. No need shipping the whole bar. Freebird has a post on how he ground down the spot weld to get them out, but if you want to just cut off the ends of the bar, I'll get the nuts out.
  4. BigShell
    I've got two of them. Mounted just below each air box with the horn resting on the front crash guard. They are loud. Put them on the same relay that runs the Stebel mounted under the trunk. Really can't hear the stock horns anymore, but they are still mounted also. When I hit the horn button, it will catch your attention.
  5. BigShell
    Can't afford lottery tickets! Well, can't afford very many. Wish I could have made it to Refugio, but I had to work on the bike. If I don't shake out any more problems, I intend to make it to Houston... at least for the Eat and Meet part. Some PGR folks in Houston I haven't seen in a long time that I'm going to try and meet up with while I'm there. Hope to see you Saturday!
  6. BigShell
    I finally had time to work on the bike today. When I put the bike on the lift last week, the exhaust pipe off #1 was cold. I pulled the seat and tank and looked around for any obvious loose wires or hoses but didn't see anything. I hooked up an auxiliary full tank and fired her up to check for fire on the cylinder. Looked good and engine sounded better. Burned my finger when I checked to see if the exhaust pipe on #1 was hot. I hadn't done anything to it yet! I was getting a fair amount of oil smoke out the left pipe. 7k since the last plugs... seat and tank were off... I had some new ones. All 4 plugs were blacker than the last time I changed them and #1 was the worst by far. After the new plugs were in, I noticed the smoking had cleared up. Engine idled a little rougher but accelerated smoother. Synced the carbs and that got better. Put everything back together and went for a quick 25 mile ride. She felt much better for the first mile then started bucking on acceleration. Did that 2 or 3 times and then started running rough without throttle. After slapping my head and turning the petcock from off to run, she smoothed out and ran great! Will see how the commute goes this week, but maybe I can make Houston on the 19th!
  7. BigShell
    I took the Bakers off and put Yamahas on. I liked the upper wing on the Baker but the Yamaha has a better lower deflector and mounting. One of these days I'm going to try to fabricate the best of both into one unit... but that is way down on my list and my stuff is way down on my wife's list!
  8. BigShell
    I remember one of our discussions... probably from before the crash. You did the smaller front tire first and then the leveling links and found the biggest percent improvement from going to the smaller tire. I did the links first, then the smaller front tire. I had found the biggest percent improvement from the links change. At the the time, the conclusion seemed to be that what you did first made the biggest impact on you and felt like the biggest change. You went Brickstone to Avon... I went Dunlop to Avon. Now we know why you felt a bigger change in handling with the tire change than I did. I still suggest the links if the extra height isn't a problem for you. I found a noticeable (on the good side) improvement in low speed maneuvering with the extra height in the rear.
  9. BigShell
    I like the height and pull back... haven't had enough time to evaluate width and angle on the grips. I don't think the width will be an issue, but that angle on the grips could be. I won't get enough saddle time to really evaluate it until I can solve my #1 cylinder not firing. I don't have a covered area to work in and the off and on light rain is keeping me from it for now. Maybe soon, though.
  10. BigShell
    Drained the bowl on the offending cylinder tonight. Didn't see anything in the gas. Didn't help. Exhaust pipe on that one stays cold. Plugs have about 7k on them. I'll buy a new set and put them in this weekend.
  11. BigShell
    I finally finished with replacing the handlebars an cleaning up the wiring inside the fairing from all the electrical mods I've done. Changed the oil in the engine and the final drive. Decided to pour in a can of SeaFoam while I was at it. Started the bike to pump some oil into the filter before checking the final oil level. I let it run a bit to warm up good. It suddenly starting running rough and had a little exhaust popping. First exhaust popping I've heard since plugging the AIS a year and a half ago. When I tried to roll on the throttle real quick, it tried to stall. Then I remembered I had siphoned out most of the gas before I pulled the tank. It was probably running on mostly SeaFoam. I added the 4 gallons I had pulled from the tank back in and run it awhile. No change. Still rough with a little popping. I pulled out the Carbtune. They were off, but not real bad. I synced them and things did smooth out and the popping stopped. I could roll on the throttle without it trying to stall. Sound seemed different and the idle was lower than it was, but she was smooth running. Finished up a few things and went for a ride. Power seemed less than I remembered. I had to add more RPM to find a sweet spot. I seemed to be using more throttle. I was doing 80 and decided to see what she would do... made it to 100, but it was a slow to get there. Put about 50 miles on the bike and pulled into a convenience store. Decided I better buy some lottery tickets... might need them to fix this! When I got off the bike, I felt the cylinders. Both front were hot. Both rear were warm with the right rear being the warmest and the left rear just barely warm. Decided to buy 2 lottery tickets. Rode to work today (35 miles one way). Had to fill up before I got there. 22.75 mpg. Now a lot of that was wasted transferring fuel, idling and hitting the throttle hard a number of times, but that can't account for all of it. When I got home this evening, I pulled the left rear plug wire from the running engine... no affect. Pulled the right rear and the engine ran rough. On the left side, I noticed when I put the plug wire back on, the engine RPM would come up a little for a second or less then fall back off. Did it every time. It was like a little fuel made it into the cylinder while the wire was off and burned it quickly when the wire was put back on. I didn't have my tools out or have an easy way to check for spark on that wire, but from the reaction of the engine when I put it back on the plug, I would say it is firing. I pulled the air box that goes on top of the left side carbs while I was working on the bike. I'll check that to make sure I got it seated back in place and all the hoses replaced like they should be. I'll also make sure I am getting a spark on the left rear. Where do I go from there? I don't know much about carbs, but I guess I can learn with some help. Be this weekend before I can do much, though. What really amazed me was that this bike would push my 375+ pounds up to 100 mph on three cylinders and run smoothly while doing it!
  12. BigShell
    I change my own. I have a harbor freight changer. I don't find it particularly hard, but I am kinda slow. Still faster than taking it to a dealer and waiting for them to do it. I've had one tire that didn't want to take air and pop to the bead. A ratcheting tie down around the tire took care of that.
  13. BigShell
    First time I did this, I used some heavy wire I had laying around. Heavier than bailing wire... lighter than a coat hanger. I bent a 'U' in the end and used that to cradle the yoke while I stabbed it. The last time I used a magnet inserted in that swingarm hole. The only magnet I had that would fit in the hole was pretty small. It would hold the yoke... but just barely. I had my son use the magnet to lift the yoke and I stabbed it. He dropped the yoke a few times before I could get it stabbed, but it worked in the end. For the next time, I'm going to try and find a stronger magnet and find a way to lift the yoke and tie it off so I can do it by myself.
  14. BigShell
    Buying the RSTD bars and weights from flatout is about $70 less than buying the flanders and weights from Rick. Rick might get you the same price as flatout, you would have to ask him. The hoses and cables I bought from Rick are the same as the flanders mod prices (I think they are the same size). I haven't found my detailed invoice to confirm that, but I'm pretty sure that's right. I'm going to hang onto this risers for a bit. If I don't like the RSTD bars, I may go back to stock and risers or maybe Flanders... or maybe Flanders and risers. If I do, I'll need to find new bolts. When I pulled these risers off, a couple of the bolts seemed to have a little wobble to them like they were bent. I only took a quick look at them and didn't see anything, but I sure need to look closer. These are Barons risers.
  15. BigShell
    I can't find my receipts right now that has the itemized cost. I ordered the RSTD bars from Flatout Motorcycles . They were about $85. I had ordered some other stuff at the same time and total shipping was about $15. I got the rest of the stuff from Rick at BuckeyPerformance. I got throttle cables, Stainles Steel Braided front brake hose set, and the SS clutch hose. Most folks also get the SS rear brake hose, but you don't have to replace it to switch out the bars. If you plan to do the Butler rear brake mod, I wouldn't get the rear hose now, but get it when you do that mod. I had already done the Butler mod, so didn't need it. I also needed the RSTD bar end weights, screws that hold them to RSTD bars and the plastic end caps. I got the SS throttle cables. You could save a few $'s going with the black cables. I had heard that the cables and hoses for the Flanders bars were 2" over stock, but I wasn't 100% sure of that, so I asked Rick to get me whatever he sold for the Flanders mod or +2"... whichever was longer. He charged me about $400 shipped for SS throttle cables, SS 3 hose front brake set, SS clutch hose, and bar end weights and hardware. I expect he can supply the RSTD bars too. Check with him on shipped price. I rounded the $'s up a little, but not much. You're looking at about $500 to do what I did. I'm 6' 2" and about 375 lbs. I put risers on shortly after getting the bike. I won't say I've had a lot of discomfort with the setup, but at times I feel like I'm reaching for the bars... especially when I lean back on the backrest. I really wanted to get rid on the risers, too. For me, this is more of a 'tweak' than a need. My hope is the extra height will feel like the risers and the extra pull back will let me lean back a little more. Not sure what to expect from the extra width. I figured the only way to know for sure if this mod will work for me is to try it. The largest expense is in the SS hoses and that's a mod I would have done in the next couple of years anyway.
  16. BigShell
    I left my stock horns in place and mounted the Stebel under the trunk and inside of the HD taillights. I also mounted two fiamms up front under the airboxes and on top of the crash bars. Here is a thread with a few pics and a sound bite. Once in a while, when a bunch of bikes get together, someone will want to show how loud theirs are. They have a big smile until I press my horn button and grab everyones attention. I'm sure there are louder setups out there but not many can compete with 3 horns in the 120 to 130 db range plus the little bit the stock horns add... 5 horns in all.
  17. BigShell
    Looks like he has 3 sets again. I agree with your assessment. Bottom line for me is I can see whats behind me better than I could with the stock mirrors. I won't say you couldn't route to the front of the triple tree, but I like having everything out of the way and where it belongs. Just a cleaner install. It's that up front cost that hurts. I figure the SS hoses will help brake performance some and save the cost of replacing them in a few years. I had heard about the Flanders bar mod some time ago but went with the risers instead. I was on the Flanders site one day looking at the specs when I saw the RSTD bars had about the same pull back as the Flanders but were 2" taller and wider (and about $40 to $50 cheaper). I asked around a bit, saw they would fit using the same over size hoses and cables as the Flanders and decided to try them. I tore everything down last weekend and got the bars, cables and hoses back on and bled. I've got a lot of wiring I want to clean up in the fairing so I left it torn down to work on this weekend. Had a little scare this evening when I got home. There was a lot of green liquid on the floor under and around the bike. Saw a drop or two coming from under the bike. What I found was the plug for draining coolant from the cylinders had popped out. I had pulled the cooling fins off the left rear so I could replace the clutch bleeder valve with a speed bleeder and I had left the cover off. I guess it got warm enough to build a little pressure and pop the plug out. Easy fix and now I have a reason to go ahead and flush the cooling system. I don't mind working on the bike, but I sure will be glad when it's back together and I'm riding again!
  18. BigShell
    Two things to try. First, is her mic 'pointed' in the right direction and positioned where it can pick up her voice? Check the holes in the mic and make sure they point toward her. What level is the IC set on? Try turning it up? If she hears you ok, it probably isn't this setting.
  19. BigShell
    Look for the standard schrader valve on top of the forks. You will need a low pressure pump with a zero loss fitting such as the ones made by progressive. http://www.mawonline.com/newsite/progressive_suspension-gauge_mounted_shock_absorber_pumps.htm
  20. BigShell
    Buddy... I run Seafoam several times a year. I don't remember when the last time was which means its probably time to do it again. Steve... When I first got the bike, I filled with oil almost to the top of the sight glass. Learned here that was the wrong thing to do. I haven't filled it past half way in the glass in the last 25k (or more) miles. Jeff... I've never really measured how much oil I put in. I fill it half way up the glass, run it a bit to fill the filter, let the oil settle back for a bit, then bring the level back up to half way in the glass. I never really considered the lean angle and running the engine while on the side stand. I have the leveling links which increases the lean angle even more. While we have had a fairly mild winter, there have been some 30 and 40 degree mornings where I would start and run on the choke... usually longer than necessary. Could be that even though I'm only half way up the glass, the extra lean angle with high rpm warm up might be pulling a little oil. Thanks all.
  21. BigShell
    Guess I should have taken some pics, but I'll try to describe what I saw. I had the gas tank off... replacing the handlebars and cables. There is an air box on each side on top of the carbs with a piece between the two with some foam between the pieces. The left side foam was oily with more oil toward the rear carb. I also noticed more oily dirt on the rear of the left box. I took the left side off to look inside. Both front and rear carbs looked the same. The rear might have had a little oily feel but if it did, it was not much. The box was more oily to the rear. I didn't see any oil up front, coming from the filter boxes. I keep my oil level about half-way up the site glass. My gas mileage has never been very good and has been worse the last few months. There are three vent tubes underneath on the left near where the center stand is mounted. Two are pretty heavy with oily dirt. One was venting a lot of gas fumes and an occasional drop of gas. Any guesses? I sure don't won't to put it in the shop.
  22. BigShell
    I usually run 6 to 6.5 psi in the front. I haven't checked them in a month, maybe 2. They hold pressure pretty good, but I do need to check them again.
  23. BigShell
    I'm touching on an area where I know nothing. Well not nothing... I know when I hit the brakes, the front dives pretty good. I've heard and read a little about progressive springs. I've also read that the best thing to do is get springs tuned to you and your bike. For me, that second option would be (hopefully) a moving target. Those that have met me know that I am rather large. The good news is I'm a little less large today than I was last month. I hope to continue that trend for the next 2 or 3 years. Anyway, I don't want to keep replacing springs tuned to the new me. Therefore I'm thinking progressives. Educate me please. What can I expect from them? Can I do these myself? I didn't see a tech article... Can you point to one so I can see whats involved? Lacking that, a brief walk through. Costs? Worth the costs? I'll keep searching and reading other threads, but any and all info helps.
  24. BigShell
    I'm sure the screw will go all the way in. It came with loc-tite on the threads so I just started enough threads to hold it together for a pic. Sounds like all is well with the bars so I'll start replacing them on Saturday. I've got a real rats-nest of wiring in fairing from all the hurry-up installs I've done. I think I'll take some time to straighten some of that out too.
  25. BigShell
    Hey jt, The SA pgr has a capt who works bamc and a another member who is our hoth (Help on the Homefront) coordinator. He has several Ft Sam and bamc contacts. Could be they are already involved, but I don't know that for sure. Let me know if they can help in some way (if they aren't already involved).
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