skydoc_17

I am shamelessly plugging a classified ad I have posted in the First Gen. Parts Section. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1724 It is the "Fix" for the leaking drain right below the radiator. Included are a new O'Ring and a new Stainless Steel Allen Head Cap Screw and S.S. lock washer to replace the Phillip's Head Screw. Install the upgrade and no more leak. Shipping is included in the price. The three pics below are location of drain, old parts and parts in upgrade. PayPal, Checks, Money Orders excepted. Earl

Hey James, I personally like guys that "Think outside the box"! You won't see another Second Gen. with that on the back! Very Cool! I Like it! Earl

Hey Ken, Both the Koyo and the Odyssey Batteries are a direct replacement for your present Lead-Acid battery, BUT are somewhat smaller in physical size. They both have top mount battery terminals that DO NOT need adapters for the battery cables to connect to them. If you go to the Bohannon web site you will see the biggest advantage to the sealed batteries is the much higher cold cranking amps and they last much longer. Another advantage is they are not as messy, and do not vent off those acidic vapors that corrode everything under the false tank cover. As I have found with all motorcycles, batteries need maintenance like everything else, the most important maintenance to preform on any battery but especially on a battery you spend a buck and a quarter for is a battery tender! Wally mart sells one for $19.99 and it has extended the life of my motorcycle batteries tremendously! I actually have the one tender with a hook-up on several bikes and I just un-plug the tender and plug it into the other bike in rotation. Best 20 bucks I ever spent! I have the plug mounted on each bike ( I made an extension for each plug) and the plug tucks under the false tank cover on the 86'VR and 87'VR and behind the side cover on the 86' V65 Magna and you don't have to remove any of the plastic to plug any of the bikes into the charger. The local auto parts store here in Pa. (Advance Auto Parts) sells a decent replacement Lead-Acid battery for $45.00 and that is what is in the 86'VR as we speak. The tender worked just fine on the maint. free batteries and the Lead-Acid battery as well. Any questions about the battery tender hook-up, please feel free to PM me. Hope this helps, Earl

Hey Greg, I too was concerned about those O'Rings as well and borrowed a "Bore Scope" from work and examined those O'Rings VERY CLOSELY (50X View.) on both my 86'VR and 87'VRs with the mileage at 95,000 plus on the 86'VR and 74,000 plus on the 87'VR and found that both sets of O'Rings looked like brand new. I touched them with a pick and they appeared to still be pliable and the "Bore Scope" confirmed that they were not damaged in any way. Now this is not a guarantee that your O'Rings are in the same condition, and if I was doing a total rebuild on the Carb. set I would not hesitate to replace them with new ones supplied with the rebuild kit, but I would say that if you see no obvious damage with the naked eye then you can be relatively sure that the O'Rings are still in usable condition. That was the case when I did the Needle Mod on both the 86'VR and 87'VR. Earl

Having several bikes myself (no Second Gens., thank you very much) :sign just kidding:I have found Bohannon Battery Distributers to be one of the cheapest. They give excellent service, and ALL of their Battries SHIP FREE! YTX18L-BS Battery -Free Shipping- Have a question? Call us (386)328-9024 KOYO may be substituted with Yuasa, Powersonic, or Superlex labelBattery PictureDimensions(LxWxH in.)DescriptionBattery Price http://www.bohannonbattery.com/images/bat/18lbs.jpg YTX18L-BS Battery8 1/8 x 3 9/16 x 6 7/16YTX18L-BS Sealed Maintenance Free 12V Battery Charged & Ready Upon Arrival$89.00 http://www.bohannonbattery.com/images/odyssey/pc680mj.jpg PC680 Battery7.3 x 3.2 x 6.7Odyssey PC680 Sealed Maintenance Free 12V Battery Odyssey Charged & Ready Upon Arrival$123.95 They also sell many other items related to battries such as battery tenders, etc. Here is the link to their site. (I am in no way connected with this company other than I purchased some items from them and got good service and price was excellent) http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/motbat/18lbs.html Hope this helps, Earl

I was going to do a write-up on the mod as I cought this thread the first time it came around when I had some hard data. The weather here has been so bad that I havn't gotten much riding in since I did it but here is the "How TO". I would like to say a BIG THANK YOU to Chuck (5bikes) for the write-up as I would have never thought of this myself. The pics are for the 86' to 93'VR's with the un-adjustable needles in the sliders. Questions, PM me, Earl

There has been a recent thread about a related issue issue recenty. If you weed thru the Posts, there is a source in Canada that sells the Diaphragms only, not the sliders which are usually good on these bikes. I think there is talk of a group buy on these so you may check out this link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32052 I think you will find it very informative. Earl

I think this pretty much says it all!!!

Hey Squidly, If I am remembering correctly, 1983 MK1 carbs. are different. The rubber diaphragm is the same size but the slider and bore are smaller. Earl

It is obvious that Yamaha was trying to attract Harley riders to the Second Gen. so it would be foolish to put a device on their scoot that is beyond the capibility of the rider to operate. Another perfect example is the speedometer, why else would Yamaha put a speedo on a scoot that looks like it came off of a Rambler if it wasn't for the fact that for the rider to ride, shift, whatch their speed and God forbid throw in some gum chewing could cause an accident, which would decrease the market share for Yamaha's version of "Hardley a Harley". And finally, my hat's off to the dark siders who have excepted the fact that they are putting around on a "Near Cage" and have taken the progression one step further and put car tires on this mutant wanna-be. Since it seemed as if the "gloves were pretty much off" after Redneck's post I thought I would kick a little dirt back on the Second Genner's shoes! I am taking this all in fun as I hope you will! I think the First Gens and Second Gens. are Both great scoots, just different. Earl

This reminds me of that old rock-n-roll, stoner song called: "There's a Hole in Daddys Garage Where all the Money Goes"! :rotfl: Earl

Hey Bill, Perhaps a name change is in order here....I mean "NOT SO SNARLEY BILL" Just seems to have a nice ring to it, Don't you think!?!? :rotfl:How about "ANGER MANAGEMENT BILL" But never "WILLIAM THE NEUTERED" although that does have a sorta' Royal Sound to it. I think we are all enjoying "The Kinder, Gentler, Bill". Thanks for being a "Good Sport"! Earl and Jean

Hey Barend, I guess there are two schools of thought on this one, "Quick and Easy" which consists of removing the side panels,spraying engine cleaner on the motor, and giving it a shot with a garden hose or I like to use "Simple Green" and sop up the watery mess with paper towels. It is a somewhat slower process but does a good job and you can control where the water goes. I did want to mention that I was able to take a wrench and get another 3/4 turn on the Valve Cover bolts which stemed the flow of oil a great deal. Now I am not saying that if the Valve Cover Gasket is shot that this will be the cure but for a little seeping it did the trick for me. I did want to say that if you use a pressure washer/ self-serve car wash be VERY Careful where you point that wand, I got stranded at a self-serve car wash one time because I washed the heck out of my engine and until it dried out, the bike wouldn't start! I try to stay away from high pressure washes now because it forces water into areas that shouldn't see any water, although I still use a garden hose to wash down body parts. Either way you go, I would do this with the old plugs STILL IN THE MOTOR! Just my thoughts. Earl

Hey Chris, Both Jean and I were sorry to hear about your accident. We are both very greatful that you were not injured any worse than you were. Please remember that bikes can be repaired, and if it wasn't for you quick reaction time and speedy brake application you could be placing this post from a hospital bed! We are glad this is not the case! Get Well Soon, Earl and Jean

Hey Ken, I wish I could say that I have never left the choke on too long....but I can't! Sometimes I am like a puppy hanging out the window of a pick-up when I get on my bike. :rotf:There has been that odd time I have fouled a plug running the choke on too long but that is rare. Next time you're out riding, with the choke off, take your bike up into the upper RPM range and "blow her out" and all should be fine. If you do develop a "stumble" or cold exhaust pipe on one of the cylinders, I would change the plugs. Earl

Hey Bob, I'm Not sure weather or not to try to sway you with Technobabble so Let me just point out a few facts and let you make your own decision. The Second Generation Venture is visually deceptive by nature, it looks like the kinda' bike that one would think you could just "putt" around on, but in reality the power plant design of this bike is over 25 years old. It was designed to be ridden in the upper RPM range, and quite frankly the harder you run it, the better it likes it. Because of the hot arid climate you live in, and because your fuel is basically "boiling" (Vaporizing) at room temperature, if fuel isn't moving regularly thru the carbs. varnish will build up and clog the very small tubes and seats in the Carb. body. Seafoam is like Draino, it removes the varnish but can't do it's job if it is not forced thru these tiny areas and allowed to dissolve the build-up. In the case of a stuck float the "hinge" that the float pivots on can be compromised by the varnish build up as well. Everything you have described are classic examples of a bike that has not been run hard and had vaporizing fuel clog the system up. The cure is to use plenty of Seafoam, and as a member of the forum once said, (and I really like this) "Run it like you hate it!) Unless of course you like doing a total rebuild of your carbs. every 4 to 5 years. One final area to watch, watch your oil level, fuel leaking from the Carbs. could end up in the crank case and a rise in the oil level is an indication of this happening. :confused24:Just my thoughts for what they are worth, Earl

Search for: model - xvz13 Part No. Image Description Model Year Price Status Paypal Cart [1] 2 records CARBURETOR PARTS - CARB KITS AND FLOATSSD1http://www.siriusconinc.com/ebayimages/SD1.jpgSLIDE DIAPHRAGM SET OF 4V-MAX VMX12 XVZ13 VENTURE ROYAL72mm OS 30 mm IS$ 89.00IN STOCKhttp://images.paypal.com/images/sc-but-01.gif Barry, you DA' MAN! I can't beleive the the Canuks finally got the goods on us good old boys from the USA! Way to go guys! Perhaps Condor or Freebird could arrange a group buy for the guys that need these puppies. Great team work, everyone, Earl

Hey Karl, Well, I feel your pain on this one! When I first got my 87'VR I did the same thing and fried my front right rotor. If you didn't put new seals on the pistons of all three of your 26 year old calipers then it's not going to get any better. I burned up the front right and the rear rotor befor I discovered it myself. With the caliper off if you can't move the pistons BY HAND the seals have become hard from heat and old age. There is nothing inside the caliper that makes the piston retract and if the pistons can't move freely then they will stay in contact with the rotor causing more heat and then finally locking the wheel up. I suggest rebuilds all around, making sure the caliper piston bores are free of the buildup of old brake fluid and dust from the brake pads. Flatout Performance seems to have the best price on the caliper rebuild kits and Chris will take good care of you there. Earl

On the 86'VR it appears that the starter solenoid has gone "belly up" on me. If I take a screw driver and jump across the two terminals on the solenoid the bike will start, Does anyone have one laying around for a 86 to 93 VR. Also, where in the heck does that small wire go to from the solenoid?!?! It just seems to disappear into the bowells of the frame. I would be grateful for any help I could get on this issue, As you all know, I can turn a wrench pretty good but Electric matters are Greek to me! Thanks Folks, Earl

Is the stator from Buckeye the same for the First Gens. and Second Gens? What is Rick Charging for the High Output Stator, and can this information be sent with a Western Union Splice? Earl

I'll say it again, Oh Brother!

Hey Curt, You sure can pick that Axe Bro, outstanding!! Earl and Jean

Hey Rick, The pic you are referring to is labeled " New Dias and Springs In" My photo program limits the number of characters I can use in the Title of a picture that I save. In actuality, the rubber flexible portion of the diaphragm is the only new component, the sliders, springs, covers and needles are all reused. I did do a really good job of cleaning those babies up so I can understand why you would think they were new. Here is the actual cost for the entire diaphragm rebuild including the re-shimming of the slider needles. (writeup about this coming) 4 Ebay Diaphragms $86.00 (with shipping, starting bid was $59.99 you might get lucky) 1 Can Carb. Cleaner $3.00 SS Cap Screws, Washers for Carb. Caps $25.00 SS washers for Slider Needles $1.00 1 Can Bronze Hammer tone Paint $3.50 1 tube silicone sealant $3.00 ( thanks again for the tip on the Stainless Steel Condor!) ----------- Total $121.50 If you can reuse the old Phillips screws and didn't paint the Carb. caps and didn't do the Carb. needle shim mod you would be into this rebuild for just the cost of the new diaphragms, $86.00 or less if you bid well. Sounds like a deal to me! Earl

Hey Jack, To address your question first, as you can see in the pic comparing the old diaphragm to the new one, on all 4 sliders, the old diaphragm came off in one piece. I did use compressed air after the Carb. cleaner wash and did a through inspection as well. I too was concerned about part of the old diaphragm remaining in between the two flanges and causing problems. As it turned out my sliders were in really good shape and the addition of these aftermarket diaphragms was the bomb! I have had these diaphragms for a few months now and was a bit worried about installing them. I approached this rebuild "loaded for bear" as far as prep, cleanliness, and focus was concerned, other than having a little trouble with a couple of those Phillips Head Screws, (vice grip time) I would say that this project was one notch above "stupid" easy. If I hadn't gotten crazy with the paint on the Carb. covers and giving the plastic parts I removed a through cleaning and a coat of wax, I could have been in and outta' there in under 2 hours. I decided to do the write-up because of that moment I panicked when I wasn't sure how to seat the diaphragm inner diameter between the two flanges. Everyone has been so helpful on this site that this is how I try to "Pay it forward". Hey Tim, To address your questions next, Yes I did do the washer mod to the slider needles as was described by 5Bikes (Chuck) and a BIG THANKS goes out to him for his description on that mod. The weather has not been very good here yet so I can't give a definitive answer as to how much better the gas mileage has gotten but I am going to do a write-up with pics when I have some hard numbers. I can say that after the mod, my exhausts doesn't smell "too rich" any more. Plus after about 100 miles of riding I pulled the plugs and they were breaking in nicely. No more wet plugs. Plus in the past, My gas light would come on at about 125 miles, I am at 100 miles on this tank and still have almost 1/2 tank left. I am optimistic but don't want to "blow my horn" until I can back it up with some actual data. Here's a link to the seller on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DIAPHRAGM-YAMAHA-XV535-VIRAGO-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYAL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a2Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem270342324033QQitemZ270342324033QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Hey Lutz, I wanted to address your concerns next by saying that the molded lip on the outer most diameter of the new diaphragms fit the groove in the Carb. body "like a glove". The molded lip is much more defined on these new diaphragms and with the addition of the clocking tab, Verifying that the rotational alignment was correct and verifying that the new diaphragm was sitting flat was no problem at all. Now about longevity, this of course remains to be seen but I can say that I put a set of aftermarket diaphragms in my V65 Magna made from the same material and have 5 years of "Hard Running" on them with no problems. Will they last for 20 plus years, I don't know, but for $21.50US per Carb. I am willing to find out. I'll PM you in 2029 and let you know!! As with all of the repairs and mods I have done to both my 87'VR and 86'VR I am not saying that my way is the best way, I merely share the information I have gathered while performing the repair or mod, let you know what the results were, and ultimately allow EACH PERSON to decide if this is the direction they would like to go. I surely don't claim to know "everything" about these motorcycles, and I have access to machining equipment that most do not, and believe me when I say that if next week these diaphragms fall out on the pavement, I'll be on this site, with my head hung low, Telling you NOT to buy these diaphragms and asking all of you good people where did you get your stock Yamaha diaphragms for the best price! I promise! Any other questions, feel free to ask, Earl

Hey Darrin, I was dealing with a few issues, a tad hard to start, (lots of choke) wet plugs, (fouling) occasional backfiring, but the biggest one was bad gas mileage. Just last week I purchased a CarbTune Pro and after a Carb. sync. It basically runs like a new bike. Hey Lutz, Thanks for the kind words, as to your question, I had the cover off of the air box and with the filter and center plate removed I had one hand in the air box to rotate the slider and the other hand with the Carb. cover to place on when the diaphragm was in the right rotation. One other thing Lutz, the quality of the replacement diaphragm was very good, the bead on the outer most diameter and the size and location of the clocking tab made for an ideal fit, whoever machined the mold for these diaphragms did an excellent job! Thanks for the praise and keep those questions coming, Earl