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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    WOW! All you need now is a VMAX motor in that baby.....and a set of wings and you will be cleared for takeoff! Excellent job! I guess all the Harley riders just say "what the he** was that!" ................As they are looking at your tail light! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    My 87'VR makes the same noise, but when I'm riding with a 2nd Gen. I can't hear it over the whine of the 2nd Gen!!! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Ken, When I originally did a write-up on this mod a few months ago, a few members played the "oil level" game with me and a few more played the you're "Killing the Ozone" game as well. The design of the crankcase vent tube is to vacuum the combustion from the crankcase and redirect it to the air box where it will be recycled into the engine again. Here is WHAT I KNOW about this system on my 1987VR: When I added the K&N Filter the increased airflow was not only pulling the crankcase gases into the air box but a pretty good amount of oil vapor that ended up pooling in the bottom of the air box. When I removed the crankcase vent line and placed my finger on the crankcase metal vent tube there was positive pressure coming from the crankcase so I didn't feel that there was a need for a vacuum source to properly "vent" the crankcase. I can tell you for sure that since I plugged the crankcase vent holes in the air box and my engine is getting a "full shot" of clean air without it being mixed with oil vapor my bike runs much better, doesn't sputter and I have checked the air filter twice since the upgrade and it has not needed to be cleaned and there has not been one drop of oil in the bottom of the air box. Also I was using Carb. Cleaner on my Carbs every 6 months to remove the "varnish" from the intake of the oil vapor, 3 months after the upgrade, my Carbs. are as clean as the day I did the upgrade. I know these things for sure. I am assuming that at some time in the future I will need to remove the vent tube filter, wash it out, and reinstall it due to it collecting the oil vapor. I have noticed for sure that because there is no artificial vacuum attached to the vent tube the amount of oil vapor has been reduced greatly. Even after a hard multi-hundred mile ride I have yet to see any smoke "billowing" from the vent tube filter. These are the things I know for sure about this upgrade, Any tree hugger that thinks I'm killing off some chunk of rain Forrest in some third world country is speculating....AT BEST! As for you Ken, you have to decide what you feel "warm and fuzzy" about, It was a no brainer for me, The bike winds up quicker, better performance, less maintenance and looks cleaner. I have added a pic of the crankcase vent filter installed with all hoses reinstalled. My thoughts about my bike, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    I'm with Don on this one, Pick up a set of MKI carbs. from EBAY. You Can find a set for $100.00 or less and just about bolt them on. I would check the Diaphragms before the install and change them out just to be sure. Thin walled cast aluminum and water don't mix and the cost of the individual Carb. parts from Yamaha plus the labor time just to find out that you have at least one bad Carb. would not be worth it in my opinion. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Ken, I just did this to my 87"VR after installing a K&N air filter and had to keep washing and re-oiling it because of the oil coming from the Crankcase Vent Tube. I don't own a 2nd Gen. but don't see why you couldn't do the same. I plugged the two holes in the Airbox, Removed the two lines and the "TEE" from the crankcase vent tube and picked up a vent filter from EBAY. a K&N vent filter is in the $25.00 range but I found a few "off brands" that were in the $8.00 range that worked just fine. I don't know what the diameter of your vent tube is on your 2nd Gen. but I got the 15MM size for my 87"VR and it slipped right on. The vent tube filter comes with a hose clamp and a "little big" is better than a "little small". My vent tube is in such a bad place that I didn't want it to be too tight because it needs to be removed and cleaned from time to time. You may not have this, but I did! There was a very small water line going from the thermostat housing to the engine case right next to the crankcase vent tube and I had to remove the line, install the vent filter, then reinstall the coolant line. I replaced the coolant line with a new one since mine was 22 years old. I have had mine on for three months now and it still looks like new. Plus the Airbox is dry as a bone! I have attached the pics of the upgrade so you can get an Idea of how it goes. If you have any questions, PM me and I will help you all I can. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    If I remember correctly the right front and the rear have the 8cm pistons and the left front has the 7cm pistons. You will need to order two O"Ring kits for each caliper. I would also suggest a light hone of the piston bores with oil and polishing of the pistons for smooth action. When you reassemble the pistons with the new O"Rings use a light coat of brake fluid as a lube, wipe off excess after assembly. Remember there is nothing inside of the caliper that retracts the brake pads from the rotor so if you don't do a good job cleaning the pistons and bores the pads will drag and you will overheat the rotor. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Thank You George for answering my post. I read thru the list you gave me. It seems that while removing the dash I pulled the connector to the handlebar apart. I cleaned it and reconnected it and the light is working now. Thank You Very Much For Taking The Time To Help Me! Does this mean the Adoption is off? :crackup: A Greatful Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    I stand before you today, a broken man. I removed the trim, headlight lens, windshield, dash cover, Removed the CMS, soldered it, put it all back together and that pesky headlight STILL doesn't work. I will say that Icons and information on the CMS work now that never worked before. But NO HEADLIGHT! I am now officially asking any Electrical Guru if they would be willing to take a shot at this problem. I am willing to travel and I hope there is someone close enough that I can make the ride one way in 24 hours. If I thought GEORGE S would adopt me, I would be headed to his house as we speak. I am laid off right now and have some time so I would like to get this fixed. I might add that I do have some wiring issues and this could be the problem but as I stated in the Tag Line I am "Electrically Retarded" and need some help. Anybody Want Some Company? Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey JB, Please let me know when you get them made, I would buy a set. Sorry I didn't back to you on the connectors, as I am finding out I am "Electrally Retarded" but should be able to install the battery cables seeing as there is a bolt on each end of them! Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    I just ran into this problem the other day, this bike was 6 months old, the owner was on his third rotor, replaced by the Stealer, Brought the bike to me, the first thing I did was remove the caliper. Now about calipers, there is nothing inside a caliper that pulls the brake pads away from the rotor. With that being said, the pistons in a caliper should "float" freely in their bores. In other words if you can't push the piston in with your finger then the brake pads are going to drag on the rotor. As the heat builds the problem gets worse. As I said I pulled the caliper, popped the pistons with my air hose, (WARNING: COVER THE CALIPER WITH A HEAVY CLOTH!) Because those pistons are comming outta' there like a rocket! I lightly honed the bores, cleaned the brake dust crud off of the pistons, lubed the seals with brake fluid, put everything back together and All was well. By the way you can check the run out of a rotor with a dial indicator and I don't know what the spec is on a second gen. rear rotor is but you can find it in the service manual. I'd have a good close look at that caliper If I were you. Just my thoughts, Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Karl, Try Flatout Motorsports Here's the link: http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/ Better yet, call Chris at 765-342-6335. He works at Flatout and be sure to tell him that you are a VR.ORG Member and he will fix you right up. Best prices I have found for OEM parts. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Glad to hear that Tom is OK. Sorry about his bike. Glad Chuck and the Goose are OK as well. Get home safe. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    What you are seeing there are the results of cleaning your bike with a power washer and the cleaning fluid that was supposed to be used on a deck or block work. The result is an Alkaline etch. Just like an acid etch but at the opposite end of the PH spectrum. Unfortunately, the plastic has been "melted" and that is why you can only regain the shine by using rubbing compound and then the polishing compound. You would need to smooth the surface of the plastic out again. This type of "chemical burn" is a tough one to remove. I'm afraid option 1 is polish,polish,polish and option 2 is replacement. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    I was wondering if the point that is missing here is the fact that the piston needs to be on TDC of the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke to position the lobe of the cam off of the valve shim bucket for all of the cylinders. Just a thought, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    I have posted a pic of the cam timing wheel I use to position the crankshaft for valve adjustments. I am sure this is overkill, but being a Machinist, I try to do things the best I can. I have had this timing wheel for a number of years now and it is a great size for motorcycles. (smaller than pic size) BradT, to answer your question about the change in the point of tangency between the Lobe Ellipse and the static diameter, a change in the static diameter by -.005 only changes the tangent point of the Lobe ellipse .00003 (thirty millionths of an inch) I am not trying to insult anyone here, and I would also like to point out that if the static diameter of the cam on YOUR VR is only -.001, and you used your method of setting the cam timing, then your valve adjustment would only be .001 tight. Surely not enough to cause major damage. The reason I brought up the method in which cams are ground is because it has changed with the introduction of more modern equipment. I know for a fact that Honda, Kawasaki and Bombier have been using the newer equipment and 2 step grinding method for a number of years as well as many of the major aftermarket cam makers. I use the method in the service manual in conjunction with the timing wheel, and was trying to show you why it is better, nothing more. I have seen more than one tight valve adjustment, but very few cams or valves damaged as a result of a tight adjustment on the ventures. I can see where it would need to be set correctly on the VMAX seeing how those bikes are run a lot harder. My intension was to share knowledge and tools I use to make a job that is not any fun to do easier and more accurate. Not to make anyone mad, or say that my way is better or your way is bad. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    I personally do not own a Second Gen. Venture but work on a number of new motorcycles in the area I live in. I mentioned this in another thread just the other day where I am seeing blatant disregard during the New Cycle prep. by the dealers in my area. Now, don't get me wrong, I am VERY grateful for all of the extra work I have been getting lately, on brand new or nearly new cycles as a result of the carelessness of the local dealers but I would be "less than thrilled" if I spent all of the money you all have spent for a new scoot and then have to take it to someone like me, just to make sure it wasn't going to fall apart the next time they rode it. I now have a few customers that bring all of their bikes to me for a "once over" even before that take it on their first ride! I am shocked as to what I have found on these bikes with under 10 miles on them. On Thursday, a man trailered his new scoot to my shop, for the "once over"! I didn't even know him! Seems a friend told him about all of the things I found bad on his bike and this customer just brought his bike over! Unfortunately, I have very little respect for the Dealers in my area, sad, but true. James, this was excellent information to pass on to all of the 2nd Gen. owners. Thank You, Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    In light of BEER30's confession, Counselors are standing by to take your calls. I am sure there MUST be a 12 step program out there somewhere for those that have had the "urge" to put on a thong. On a personal note, the visual image of BEER30 in a thong has left me somewhat shaken, and I hope that I will be able to consume solid food in the next few days.I have a newfound respect for BEER30's wife and the old saying "what a good sport" has a whole new meaning to me now. I admit that on a few occasions, I have "bared my soul" to this group about being "electrically challenged" or on another occasion being "Color Blind". But if I ever divulge my obsessions with womens underwear or footwear for that matter, someone PLEASE PM my cell phone number to DR. Jack Kevorkian post haste! Jean was passing by the computer just as my chin hit the computer desk, glanced at the screen and said, "Isn't that Special"!! Dude, you have set a whole new "Bench Mark" for weirdness! My hats off to ya'!!! Earl and Jean
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Lutz, Please let me enjoy this moment, I can now count the times I have had information that you were not aware of ....on ONE FINGER! :crackup::crackup: Now, back to reality! The reason for the two operation grinding process is this: Machine #1 is set up to grind Static diameter of Camshaft, operator is less skilled, machine time is quicker, Surface finish is coarser, tolerance is bigger, thus the less skilled operator. Camshafts are "stockpiled" by not complete, so that can not be taxed as a completed sub-assembly by the state government. Machine #2 is set-up for the finish Lobe Ellipse Operation. Skill level of operator is much higher, Process takes longer, Grinding wheel must be "dressed" more often, Parts are run in smaller "lots", tolerances are much tighter, thus the higher skill level of the operator. If you needed a lot of Camshafts in a short period of time, you would only need to work ONE operator "overtime" instead of two. Finished Camshaft sub-assemblies taxed would be more in line with finished product (completed Motorcycle) shipped. It's Just like that. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Goose, Perhaps one or more of the tires you ordered were not in stock at that location. I have noticed that many companies are not keeping as much inventory lately. It could be nothing more that tire shipped to them, then shipped to you. Just a thought, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Perhaps I can shed a bit of light on this subject. At one time, a camshaft grinding machine used a "template" and the movement of the Grindhead was hydraulically controlled. The entire Camshaft lobe and static diameter of the Camshaft were ground at one time and the static diameter and the lobe ellipse were both ground to the same tolerance. Modern Production Camshaft Grinding Machines are C.N.C. (Computer Numerical Controlled) and the Lobe and Static diameter are actually ground in two different operations. The Lobe ellipse is ground to + or - .0005 or five tenths of one thousandths. Where the operation for the static diameter is ground separately and the tolerance has NO + but can be - .005 or negative five thousands on the Static outside diameter. The procedure in the Yamaha Service Manual positions the Camshaft at the beginning of the tighter tolerance Lobe Ellipse thus guaranteeing the proper valve lash adjustment. If we take the static diameter to the minimum of the tolerance which would be -.005 and set the valve lash to the static diameter, (with the lobe at 180 degrees rotated) then you have effectively set the valve lash too tight by .005 which would be way too tight. I hope this has cleared up why it is important to set the valve lash to the Yamaha spec. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Bryan, This is an EXCELLENT Write-Up! I am sure I speak for many when I say, Thank You, for taking the time to document this repair. By the way, did it fix your problem? After all that work, I sure hope so! Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Marvin, Flatout motorsports has the best prices on stock Yamana parts and rebuild kits that I have seen. Here's the link: http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/ Ask for Chris, mention you are with VR.ORG and he will do you right. You can also call Chris at 1-765-342-6335. He has always been helpful to me. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Boy, I was scared there for a minute! I thought I was commin' down with "Pink Eye"! Oh yea, Jean wants to know if it comes with pink leathers! I told her, "Maybe if Richard Simmons owned it"! Earl and Jean
  24. skydoc_17
    Sound Trifecta!, Posted 3-7-09 By Skydoc_17 Just this Saturday, I had a visit from an old friend of mine from the Buffalo NY area and he rode his 1988 VR down. So there we were, my 86'VR with stock exhausts, my buddy's 88'VR with the Mac aftermarket exhausts, and my 87'VR with the Jardine aftermarket exhausts. So I figure why not have a "Sonic Drag Race" and here's how it went...In my honest opinion. We started all three bikes, held them at 2000 RPM's, then 4000 RPM's and then did a quick blip of the throttle pretty close to red line. My 86'VR with stock exhaust was the quietest by far, and you really don't hear a "throaty" sound at all until you get to the 4000 RPM range and above, no problem hearing the radio with these exhausts! Next was my buddy's 88'VR with the Mac exhausts, If you were just talking about noise level, I would say that the Mac's were 15% louder but the tonal quality was 500% better, the bike actually sounds like it should go as fast as it looks. At the 4000 RPM range, the radio needed to be adjusted up to the next dot on the radio control panel to achieve the same sound quality. Lastly was my 87'VR with the Jardine exhausts, General noise level was at 20% louder than stock at or near idle. At the 4000 RPM range the bike virtually starts to "Roar" it reminded me of "dropping the hammer" on a small block Chevy in my earlier days. IMHO the tonal quality is 1000% better than stock but it is LOUDER! It required a two dot adjustment on the radio in the 4000 RPM range and during the red line blip, lets just say you better hope you know the song that was playing on the radio cause you'll be singing accapella for a moment or two until the RPM's come back down! At this point I wanted to inject a personal note, when my buddy and I and Jean were standing next to the 87'VR and revved the RPM's to 4000, the hairs on the back of my neck stood up as did all who were near the bike, and my buddy just said...WOW! That being said, I have worked in factories for more than 40 years and don't have the best hearing in the world. If you have worked in a Library all your life the Mac's might be too loud for you and the Jardine's are Definitely going to be too loud for you. But as it is in my case, if you don't mind stopping from time to time to pick the bugs from your teeth because of the "Goofy Grin" you have had on your face for the last hundred miles or so while riding in the 3500 to 4500 RPM "sweet spot" of the Jardines, then brother these are the exhausts for you! If on the other hand, you want to be able to here the cymbal solo on that new Beethoven cassette you just bought then you might want to stick with the stock exhausts! Oh yea, Jean says the exhausts on the 87'VR are " B****in' ", But she can't hear to well either! That's my 2 cents on the subject, Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    I can see it now....Ruffy's 2009..........Lube-In!! Earl
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