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skydoc_17

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  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Scott, According to the Yamaha Service Manual (page 8-2) the max load for rider, passenger and anything else you can stuff in the trunk and side bags is 386 pounds. I ride regulary in the 420 pound range with no ill effects on my 87'VR. I adjust the air ride and swing arm dampener to level the bike and stiffen the swingarm movement to keep the bike under control with the extra weight. You might want to leave a little extra room for stopping because of the extra weight. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Both my 86' Royale and my 87' Royale have Aluminum lower trees. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Evan, The condition you are describing is not uncommon for a new owner of a bike as old as the one you have. Here is a little info about the First Gen. Braking system on your bike. The left front and rear brake are "linked" in other words when you push the brake pedal with your right foot, it activates the left front and the rear brake. When you squeeze the right hand lever it only activates the right front brake. So, If when you squeeze the right front hand lever, you have no brake then you need to address the right front caliper. If you are pushing the right side brake pedal and the rear is working but you don't feel the bike "dive" slightly then the left front caliper is not working. If you brought your bike to my shop this is what I would do. Remove all the brake fluid from both masters. Remove all three calipers. With an air hose, blow thru the brake lines to check for obstructions and remove all of the old fluid. Clean out ALL fluid from masters and check the small holes for debree. Now for the fun part! Remove the pads from all three calipers. Place wooden shims where the pads were. (paint stir sticks, plywood shims etc.) With the air hose blow into the hole where the brake line attaches, when ALL of the pistons come in contact with the wooden shims, remove one shim and repeat. You will get to a point where you should be able to pull the pistons out, if you can't keep using smaller shims until you can. With the pistons out, separate the two piece caliper by removing the cap screws. The caliper should separate into pieces. Using a pick or very small flat blade screw driver, lightly ease the pick under the seal in the caliper and remove. (SPECIAL NOTE! THE RIGHT FRONT CALIPER AND THE REAR CALIPER BOTH HAVE 8MM PISTONS! THE LEFT FRONT HAS 7MM PISTONS! ALSO INSIDE THE CALIPER THERE IS A SEAL AND A WIPER. ALL OF THESE PARTS MUST BE KEPT SEPARATE AND BE RETURNED TO THE PROPER CALIPER AND IN THE RIGHT ORDER, IF NOT THE CALIPER WILL LEAK!) If you did a good job removing the seal and wiper it can be reused if it is not damaged. Lightly hone all piston bores with a brake cylinder hone and oil. Clean the caliper halves with brake cleaner. Check the pistons for damage and corrosion, scotchbrite the outside diameters. Clean the seals and wipers with brake cleaner and then lube with brake fluid. NOW IT'S TIME TO PUT THEM ALL BACK TOGETHER! Lightly lube the piston bores with brake fluid. Install the seal first, then the wiper, making sure they are seated in their groove. Install the pistons, cup side towards the pads. Bolt the caliper halves back together. Install pins, pads, pin clip and dust cover on each caliper. Install calipers. Install brake lines. Fill Masters and bleed, and bleed, and bleed, and bleed! If at this point, a single caliper doesn't function properly you will have to decide weather to do a complete rebuild with new seals or replace the caliper. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/album.php?albumid=129 Hope this helps, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Rick, Whats even scarier about Ruffy is the fact that he was a CIA Sniper then a Postal Worker!!! (Of course I thought ALL Postal Workers were ex CIA Snipers!!) What is going thru the mind of the guy that is hiring at the Post Office when he selects a perspective new employee and reads on his resume: CIA Sniper!!! "Gotta' have this guy!", I guess. Makes you go HUMMMMM! Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Matt, As I mentioned earlier in this thread, Breaking off the head of that screw is a Bi**h! I have never removed that broken screw the same way twice and I have done about ten of them so far! Here is a list of the ways I have gotten them out: Before you read the list, dround that screw in PB Blaster and let it sit for a day! I have a right angle drill motor and I used a left hand spiral drill to back the broken screw out. I always try this first. Worked three outta' ten times. With the right angle drill motor I drilled a hole thru the screw and used a screw extractor (easy out) to remove the screw. worked four outta' ten times. Because this guy was in a "Hurry" using the right angle drill motor I drilled a hole thru the screw and retapped it to a 10-32 thread and put a new 10-32 screw in place of the old screw. Only used this one time because we never did get the drain plug out. Two times, the owner of the bike came with a new drain plug and I just took a regular drill motor and drilled a 1/2 inch drill right into the drain plug, picked out the plastic rem used needle nose pliers to back the old screw out. Installed the new drain plug and my upgrade Allen head cap screw. This turned out to be the easiest method because you can use a regular drill motor but it was the most expensive because that new drain plug from Yamaha ain't cheep. Some people will throw a grinder or a welder on a bike in a heartbeat, some people won't even change their oil themselves, I'm not sure where you fall on this scale, but if you want to PM me, between the two of us I am pretty sure we can get that baby out. Here is the upgrade screw and O'Ring I am talking about: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6/date/1156391368 Hope this helps, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Wil, Where as I don't enjoy the level of enthusiasm as you do about "Pinkalicious" I did want to comment on your photo talents! I personally take a lot of "Snap Shots" and wanted to tell you that your photos are Excellent. I truly believe that Photography is an "art" and you my friend have "the gift"! Very Well Done! Just my thoughts, Earl Pinkalicious http://www.tigeress.net/pictures/blogpicts/blogpic84.jpgContinuing on from yesterday with the Donnie Smith Bike Show, this one is a real beauty. This is the best old school girlie bike I have ever seen! It would be perfect if it had pink sparkly laces coming out of the handle bars. If I rode bikes instead of trikes, I would definitely ride Pinkalicious! http://www.tigeress.net/pictures/blogpicts/blogpic84example1.jpgHere's a close up of all those pink sparkles. I love the "diamond" studs in the seat. Techie Corner I purposely gave myself some challenges at this bike show. I used my 50mm lens (which is 75mm on my digital camera.) I also had to focus manually since this lens is kinda touchy. The 75mm turned out to be more of a challenge than I thought. With so many bikes packed together and so many people crowded around them, it was hard to get back far enough to get a whole bike in the frame. I would have liked to get Pinkalicious' front tire in the shot, but that didn't work out. I shot all of my bike show pics at F2.8, so there is some selective focus involved. But the faster lens did help out greatly since none of the pics were taken with flash. Posted by Elisabeth at 1:30 PM http://www.blogger.com/img/icon18_edit_allbkg.gif Labels: motorcycles
  7. skydoc_17
    Cut Grass Furniture Refinisher Auto Mechanic Motorcycle Mechanic Ice house Worker, I got paid $2.00 a TON to bag cubed ice in #5,#10, and #20 pound bags, usually made $40.00 to $60.00 a week! Machinist Apprentice, Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock Norfolk Naval Shipyard, Nuclear Submarine C.N.C. Machinist Standford University, Nuclear Containment Vessels, C.N.C. Machinist Precision Detail Inc. Maker of custom firearms for the movie industry. (terminator, Predator, Predator II, etc.) C.N.C. Machinist, Foreman General Dynamics, Convair, C.N.C. Machinist Katema Aerospace, Space Shuttle, B1 Bomber, C.N.C. Machinist Sierracin, Magnadyne Inc. Creator of Toroidal Motors for medical and Military apps. C.N.C. Machinist, Foreman Rolls Royce Aerospace, C.N.C. Machinist Lockheed-Martin West Coast C.N.C. Machinist Lockheed-Martin East Coast C.N.C. Machinist Cannondale Motorsports, Manufacturer of High End Dirt Bikes and ATV's C.N.C. Machinist Foreman Harrell Brothers Motorcycle Repair Shop, Machinist. (This is my "Hobby") Veeder-Root Inc. Manufacturer of petroleum pumps, Gas Station Pumping Equipment, Environmental Monitoring Equipment, C.N.C. Machinist Boy, I guess I've done a LOT of machining! Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    For all of the folks that have priced the Diaphragm Assembly on line thru Yamaha or at a stealer (approx $150.00 each) $147.00 for all four doesn't sound like a bad deal to me. I am sure that there are members on this site that paid $85.00 each for the aftermarket entire assemblies that thought they got a good deal at the time. If it ment the difference between a running bike and a boat anchor with wheels, I would pay the $600.00 if that was the best price I could find. But..... I sure am glad I didn't pay that much for them!!! Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    First off the O'Ring Link is PayPal friendly. Here's the deal about the ball and spring. The plastic hex plug is designed to be rotated from the coolant system being "Closed" which is where you want it when you are riding, to "Open" where you want it when you are draining the radiator coolant. The spring forces the ball into a detent that is located at two positions, Open and Closed. No matter how tight you tighten the side screw the hex nut will still rotate to the two positions. With out the ball and spring there is a chance that the hex plug will rotate to the open position. I said a chance. A lot of people overtighten the side screw thinking this will keep the hex plug from turning. it will not, but you WILL ring the screw off and it is a Bi**h to get the old side screw out. That ball is a 4mm bearing ball and I have the ball and spring new if you need them, They are not Yamaha Parts but They are what is in both my 86'VR and 87'VR and work just fine. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Like the Marines, I was always the "Point Man" at summer camp! When I lived in the semi-desert around San Diego, we would find them over 10 feet long regulary. I had an inground swimming pool in the back yard and we would get every kinda' creature on the ark in our back yard, just stoppin' by for a drink. That one is pretty darn big for the east coast. Oh Yea, they do taste pretty darn good! Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Tony, The O'Ring is 20+ years old and is getting tired! Take a look at this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6/date/1156391368 Use PB Blaster or WD40 on the screw before you remove it so you don't ring it off. Pull the plug, replace the O'Ring, grease it up a bit and you will be good to go. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    I would be interested in the rear brake master cylinder, the clutch slave cylinder(The one under the cover on the left side of the engine) and if you have the reflector from the radiator side cover with the mesh in it, I would buy that as well. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    I stand corrected! Grounding of the wire will turn on the fan! Good catch. Sorry, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    I usually just take a screwdriver and pry the OLD pads apart before I remove the caliper and then the pistons are in the right position to accept the new pads. I have mentioned this before, there is nothing inside a caliper that retracts the pistons or pads away from the caliper. That's why it's very important to keep the pistons clean and "free floating" so you don't warp a rotor. If when you are changing the pads, if you can't move all of the pistons with your hand then they need to be removed and cleaned, and a light hone in the piston bore. The seals can be reused if they are not torn or leaking. After the light hone, lube the piston bore with brake fluid and reinstall pistons. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Karl, Glad to see you got a good first ride in! About the Radiator Fan, On the right side of your VR, There is the silver Radiator side panel with the wire mesh in it, right behind this cover is the relay for the fan. You can remove this cover and disconnect the wires and if you put power to them the fan will come on if it is good. To check the fan at temp, start bike, let Idle, you will be off the bike on the right side, when the temp gage gets to around 1/2 the fan should come on. It's really hard to hear the fan come on if you are sitting on the bike. If the fan is working, try a radiator flush and coolant replacement, I had really good results with a 60/40 mix of antifreeze and water. Check radiator for bent fins, bugs, road tar, etc. My 87'VR doesn't like to sit in traffic either. Some members use a product called "water wetter" an additive to make the coolant transfer heat better. I also replaced my radiator cap with one from a 1993 Geo Metro (13 lbs. pressure). It fit like a glove and it seems my old Yamaha cap was popping off too soon (worn out). I got the cap at Advance auto parts for around $6.00. :mo money:This was the point that I noticed a change in the running temp. After I changed the Radiator Cap. Hope this Helps, Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Jean and I are in for a Donation, as long as it's OK with Eck. Earl and Jean.
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I had a similar problem a few months ago. One thing I did was to replace the Radiator Cap, A 1993 Geo Metro cap fits well and is 1/3 the price of a Yamaha cap. I got mine at Advance Auto Parts. It doesn't look as good but it works. The second issue I had was the Radiator Drain plug was leaking due to a worn out O"Ring. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6/date/1156391368 The coolant would leak from the drain into the Lower Cowl and when I would ride the bike it would come out of the Cowl out on the road. Also check all of your hose clamps, after all they are 22 years old. Hope this helps, Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Peg, You gotta' love my girl Jean, she asked me to relay this info on to you. Jean says: "Stop feedin' him, and sleepin' with him, and doin' his dishes, and washin' his clothes for a while, and when he asks why, tell him that you have become so depressed over the potential loss of your VSTAR that you just can't focus on anything else. THAT should put things into perspective for him. Plus it takes the pressure off of you and puts it on him. Now he must decide, "do I keep harpin' about this bike thing, or do I continue to wear this pair of underwear for the 9th day while I'm on my way to Tacco-Bell and the Laundry-Mat! Earl and Jean
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey George, Not to worry, Mechanic made it safely to my house and her and Jean are in the kitchen cookin' up a mess of PIES! She was wondering if you could UPS her some clothes, a few pie pans and most of her shoes!! George, you are more than welcome to visit from time to time as we will have more pies that I alone can eat! Both Jean and I are sorry for your loss, (Yea, right) But look on the bright side, you will now be able to fast track those DIET plans for the upcoming riding season! Best regards to the new, slimmer YOU!! Earl and Jean and Mechanic:080402gudl_prv:
  20. skydoc_17
    I sent the following email to the PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE COMPANY today 3-26-09, at 2:40 PM at the following email address: https://www.progressive.com/contact-us.aspx My name is Earl Harrell and I have Progressive Ins. on my 1987 Yamaha Venture Royale with your Company. I am an Avid rider and belong to a riding group called VentureRider.Org with over 6000 members, most of which have their Cycle Ins. with your company. During a resent post in a thread about a claim that is being handled by your company, I have started to develop doubts about the quality of the service your company provides. Here is a link to the thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33714 As I continue to follow this thread, If I do not see a positive outcome to the Ins. claim I will be looking for a different Ins. provider in the near future. I have assured the rider having the problem with his claim that Progressive Ins. provides a quality Ins. product, (If I didn't believe that I wouldn't have my Ins. with your company) and that Progressive will take care of them. If this proves to be untrue, myself and I AM SURE many of the other riders in our group of over 6000 will be changing our Cycle Ins. to say GEICO or one of the other Biker friendly Ins. companies. No reply to this email will further deepen my concerns about my choice of Ins. Carrier. Please don't let me down and thank you for your time, Earl Harrell Testimonial: yes EmailCopy: yes This is an excerpt of the email and I deleted my personal information about my policy number, drivers license number, etc. Please take a moment and send your own email, please feel free to copy mine. Let's show some collective support for a fellow VENTURERIDER.ORG Member, I'm SURE he would do the same for one of us! If I get a reply, I will post it on this thread. Just my thoughts, Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Both Jean and I are planning to attend, Jean is trying to rearrange her work schedule as we speak. I tried to make this M&E last year and the fuse box fell of my 87'VR. I hope to have better luck this year. I am dieing to put some faces to some of the names that I see on this site and see some of your bikes as well. Hopefully we will have good weather and Jean will be able to get off of work. Safe Journeys to everyone, Earl and Jean
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Karl, My Hat's off to you Sir!!! I am probably as excited for you as you are yourself! And just in time for spring! Safe Journeys to you Karl, you have a great bike there! Be sure to keep us posted on how things go now that you are getting to ride her. Best Wishes, Earl and Jean
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Reinhard, I too bought the set from ebay. The quality was EXCELLENT! They were actually a bit longer than stock so I was able to route them quite a bit better than the stock ones. A while ago I removed the two plastic shields over the valve covers and the stock wires were not held as good as they were before. With the new wires, I was able to run them up the frame tubes and zip tie (the zip ties actually came with the wires!) them in a few places. The install turned out very clean and the new NGK plug caps look great and function very well. A few things to watch out for are when you remove the coil cap watch out for the rubber compression grommet on the end of the old wire. If you loose one or more you will be dead in the water as most stealers do not keep them in stock. I used some aerosol silicone spray to bring the grommets back to life plus it made it easy to get the grommets on the new wires. Finally,I put a small piece of tape about 11/2 inches from the end of the wire, then the coil cap goes on the end of the wire with the threaded end towards the end of the wire, then the grommet. The tape keeps the coil cap from sliding back down the wire as you wind it thru all of the places it needs to go. I did one wire at a time and plugged the boot on the spark plug first, connected the coil next then zip tied the wire to the frame. Do not over tighten the zip ties! I left mine loose enough to be able to move the wire with a little effort. By the way, did you get the yellow wires? Hope this helps, Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Kent, As I said in the other thread, both Jean and I are sorry that this has happened to your brother. Could you PLEASE post the e-mail address of the claims adjuster that your brother has been in contact with. Or, the e-mail address of PROGRESSIVE INS. COMPAMY.I think 6,000 plus e-mails might have an impact on him, and if not then maybe his supervisor!!! Just my thoughts, Earl and Jean
  25. skydoc_17
    I used the "Remove the battery box method" and along with the removal of the side covers, and the lower fairing legs I go in there fairly easy. Wait...thats a lie, I have pretty small hands and it still took me over an hour AFTER I removed the above mentioned plastic parts. Move slowly, as I remember I scraped a bit of skin off of my hands because I got in a hurry a few times. If you ever thought about changing the battery cables, this would be the time to do it because you are pretty close to having most of the items off that you would need to remove to get to them. I would like to add that it was worth the effort, my bike ran much better after the wire change. But it was a bear. Don't bother inviting over any "fat fingered" friends, you'll be feeding them for free... and for nothing! Earl
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