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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. Hey ED, When it comes to "pesky" little noises like that, I too am like a Pit Bull. It's funny the range of emotions you go thru during the course of finding and correcting one of those pesky problems. Great job on finding that one! The level of satisfaction that comes from tackling these kinds of problems is matched only by the joy of that first ride after the problem has been corrected. Ya' done good! Earl
  2. Check this classified ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2133 Earl
  3. Hey Scott, Congrats on the "new" to you VR! To get to the dash unit you will need to remove the 3 chrome (plastic) pieces at the bottom of the windshield and remove the windshield itself. there are 4 screws on the sides of the dash hood that take a right angle screwdriver or the hands of a 7 year old boy to get to. The fairing does not have to come off. As far as checking the gage itself, I am electrically retarded and hopefully someone like GeorgeS will jump in here and give you the skinny on checking that out. Hopr this helps, Earl
  4. Hey Mark, Here are some pics of the fuel filter replacement. It is way easier to pull the fuel pump to get to the filter. Hope this helps, Earl
  5. Been there Solved that! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32356 Earl
  6. I was more that pleased when Gary Swartz (GS 51) showed up today to "my little shop by the creek" all the way from Mount Joy, Pa. (3 hrs.) for a Carb. Sync. a peek at his Diaphragms (on the first date!) and some great BSing about his ownership of the very first Venture Royale EVER PRODUCED! Both his 83'VR and my 87'VR are in the Article on the History of the Yamaha Venture Royale in the Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_Venture_Royale We have seen each other's bikes in the article, spoke on the phone several times but have never met in person till today. Overall his bike was in very good condition with just over 24,000 miles. Aside from the typical Maintenance items it ran well when it got here and ran even better when it left. I look forward to a visit from Gary again in the near future when we will try to get this piece of "Living History" in even better shape! I have attached some pics of our little mini maintenance day below for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy, Earl
  7. Hey Ronnie, I am sorry to say that I can't help you as far as the Syncing screws on your second gen. But to answer your question about why not set the carbs. to a set vacuum here's the answer to that one. When you turn screw "A" you are actually BALLANCING the vacuum between Carb.#1 and #2. The same with screw "B", ballancing Carb. #3 to #4. Then when you turn screw "C" you ballance the right bank to the left bank. Thats why I made the remark about "Carb. Sync" not being the correct term. Hope this helps, Earl
  8. Hey Jerry, Check out this thread, it has pics and a step by step on the First Gen. Carb. Sync. By the way, nice bike you have there! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35274 Hope this helps, If not PM me. Earl
  9. Hey Jonas, To start I thought you said your bike is an 2005, 1300c.c bike. If this is correct then here is what I got: OptionIII- $247.00 2004 and newer $215.00 older $207.00 older Increased libility- $186.00 Medical Payments- $10.00 Page 2 Uninsured Motorest Coverage- Best $32.00 Worst $7.00 2005 Bike 1300c.c. best of everything, total $475.00 If bike is older " " " $443.00 In my honest opinion, the only place I can see for you to save a few bucks is in the Increased Liability area. This is "how much Damage are you going to do to someone else's stuff." You could save over $100.00 if you reduce the Increased Liability to 50/100/25 which unless your bike flies thru someone's livingroom window and their house explodes into a fireball you should be covered. I have seen VERY FEW motorcycle accidents where the bike did a lot of damage to the other person's property. Remember, Increased Liability only pays for the other guy, not you or your bike. Hope this helps, Earl
  10. Hey Seaking, Sounds like you had a great trip! Wish I couldda'' been there! I think Royalstarjac hit it right on the head as far as the no reserve thing goes. You will need to drain that tank, and check out the petcock closely. I don't know if the Second Gens have filter screens in the tank like the first gens. do but check the parts diagram, order new gaskets, O'Rings and screens (if yours has them) in advance so there is little down time. Now, About that gas mileage! With those K&N filters and the low restriction exhausts on your bike, you are moving more air and fuel into the carbs. than on a stock bike. If you and your buddy did a rolling start in 5th gear I would bet you would pull ahead of him, (right into the next gas station!) So if more power was what you were looking for when you changed the filters and exhaust then I'm sure you got it, but more that likely you won't see 50 MPG ever again! This last comment is a bit of a "touchy subject" but here goes. The 1300 c.c. Yamaha V4 was not designed to run on "high test" gas. Due to the fact that the combustion temperature is lowered with the "high test" you do not get a complete burn of the fuel/air mixture which leads to poor gas mileage. If you have one of those rare bikes that "pings" on regular gas then by all means, run the high test, but if your bike will run on the regular, put the extra money into some "safety chrome" because it's not doing you any good running the high test. An easy way to check this is look at the ends of your exhaust pipes, are they black and sooty, if you stick your finger into the end of the pipe and touch the sides do you end up with a oily black residue that smells of gas? Thats the smell of unburned fuel going out your tailpipe. The ends of your pipes should be gray and the ash should be dry and dusty. Check it out and let me know what you find, I might be able to help you with this. (yea, I know, I'm helping a Second Genner, I'm gonna' catch hell for this, I just know it!) Earl
  11. Hey Bob, Did you buy this bike from a Carpenter?!?! Glad you had those Diaphragms lying around, perhaps the CDI unit isn't bad after all! Earl
  12. Hey Randy, You Southern boys really know how to "Get 'er Done!" Excellent Idea! Thanks for sharing it with us, Earl
  13. Hey Tim, Behind the safety lever on the 380 is a cam that rotates into position to keep the trigger from being pulled. The shaft between the lever and the cam gets "dirty" from firing. WD40 the heck out of it, (you CAN"T put to much oil on this gun) I've even used compressed air to dislodge the gunpowder residue, do this several times, WD40, compressed air, WD40 etc. Once you get it freed up use a good gun oil on the safety lever. While you're at it do the slide as well, gunpowder residue on these semi's is a real killer. (no pun intended) Oil these guns like crazy, then wipe off with a soft cotton cloth. Just swabbing out the barrel doesn't get the job done. If this doesn't clear up the problem, it's time to see a good smith for a disassembled cleaning. By the way the 380 is a very nice, dependable weapon as long as you keep it clean. Earl
  14. Hey JT, What with the HOT humid weather, the economy, and me being laid off, I have thought of sawing on my wrists with a rusty tuna can lid from time to time myself! Hang in there JT, Your posts have pulled me thru some tuff times in the past, I only hope to return the favor some day......Like Today! Earl and Jean
  15. As some of you know, my navigator Jean is in charge of the electronics dept. at our local Target. One evening at work she witnessed a "CREW" of professional shoplifters invading the electronics dept. She called the police, notified security, and when the crew walked out of Target with over $8000.00 of electronics (this crew was from Philly, Pa. over 300 miles away and had been robbing every dept. store in the area blind for weeks) The local police were waiting with 4 squad cars and handcuffs for all. She appeared in court, I.D.ed them all and was given a citation from Target and the local police force. McGruff the "Crime Stopper" dog was there and presented her with the dog that is now on the back of our 87'VR. His name is "Copper" and we get a lot of looks and comments from a lot of people in our travels. The HD riders don't like "ol' Copper" too much, but they almost never get a chance to complain because all they ever see is ...The BACK Of My Bike! I am very proud of Jean...and of course old Copper too. Earl and Jean
  16. For those of you with a Carbtune (or any other Manometer for that matter) here is a link to a writ-up with pics of the Carb. Sync. using the Carbtune Manometer on a First Gen. The proceedure would be pretty much the same on a Second Gen. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35274 Hope this helps, Earl
  17. Hey Mike, You are one creative dude! Earl
  18. Well, needless to say, I'm bumbed! I had 100 "NOT SO BIG TOM!" bumper stickers made and was going to sell them at the MD this year.......Guess I'll be selling them ...NEXT YEAR! Earl
  19. Hey Reed, This is the one I use all the time and this is the best deal on the internet I could find. (It's even cheaper than Ebay!) http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/esi325.html Oh Yea, when you're braggin' about you NEW *****in' shop tach. be sure to to tell the boys a First Genner turned you on to it! Earl
  20. Hey Bob, Thats a really nice truck you have there, I hope you get every penny you want for it. :thumbsup2:Would you mind me asking what the reserve is on that baby? Earl
  21. I have a pretty nice S-10 Blazer with broken exhaust manifold studs (where the Cat Converter connects to the manifold and for the life of me I can't seem to bring myself to fix the old girl. When the weather is good, I wanna' ride and when the weather is bad well who wants to work on a truck in the rain! Thats my story....and I'm stickin' to it! I hope you have good luck with that repair, George. Earl
  22. I have said it more that a few times on this site "I absolutely Hate to get ripped off"!!! With that being said, I would suggest that you call the Yamaha Customer Service Rep. and get this taken care of ASAP! What ever you were basing your assumption on that this was a "good dealer" has turned out to be unfounded. Either this dealer is really stupid, (Holy Cow! we sold this poor guy a bike with a 5 year warranty and a extended warranty) or they RIPPED YOU OFF! (ha ha ha we sold this knucklehead a bike with a 5 year warranty and a extended warranty!) Either way, and even if I had to ride that bike to the next county, I would NEVER spend another penny at that dealer again! Zip, Nada, No Mas! Period! Why water a weed!!! If I was going to pay someone to "spank me" it would be a 6'4" Russian Redhead with high heels on not the guy I bought my motorcycle from! My Thoughts, for what they're worth, Earl
  23. Hey Kandaje, Glad to see you have a sense of humor! I don't suggest this lightly, I would hate to envision you dancing around your VR in a fireball but you seem to have a pretty good head on your shoulders so here goes, start up your bike, roll on the throttle till you get to that "pesky" area around 2000 RPMS, (you could even adjust the idle screw) mist some Carb. cleaner around the boots, bottom of the air box, intake manifolds, etc. if you have a leak, the engine will rev somewhat when intaking the Carb. cleaner, my eyes aren't what they used to be but i can sure hear a motor rev up a few RPMS. This should localize the air leak pretty quickly for you. I have good used parts if you need them, shame you don't live closer, I'd buy you a beer! Earl
  24. Hey Kandaje, I'm gonna' give you the list of other things to check. Check the clamps on the Carb. boots for tightness, (there are two sets) Check the boost sensor (connected to #1 cylinder) Download the First Gen, Service Manual off of this site Make SURE you put the 3 plugs back on the ports where you did the Carb. Sync. and make sure that are not cracked or leaking Check to see if you pulled the line off of the boost sensor (behind radiator) while plugging the 4th line back up (#1 cylinder). When was the last time you looked at the Carb. Diaphragms? Have you checked the Idle mixture screws? Now, all of these wonderful suggestions aren't going to amount to a hill of beans because what REALLY is going on is the FACT that the right bank and the left bank of your engine are not synced properly, and the low vacuum side of the engine is puking unburned fuel back into the airbox. So, unless you are wearing asbestos underwear while you ride, :crackup:check the VR.ORG members list, find someone with one of those overpriced "fluffy" needlessly high tech Carbtunes close to you, swallow your pride, ask them over for lunch, sync. your carbs. have a "victory" adult beverage, go for a ride, and be happy! You can do it. Just because you can drive in a nail with a 5 pound mall, why would you want to? My thoughts, for what they're worth, Earl
  25. Hey Shawn, Welcome to the site, great to see ya' jumpin' right in there and posting! Now, about that running rich problem! Plugging in that charcoal canister is not going to do a thing to solve your problem. All that charcoal canister does is collect vapors from the gas tank and returns them to the engine so they will be burned up. It's a California thing! now, lets take a look at what the REAL problem is with your bike. I am going to list some links below so you can read thru the thread, check out the parts, do the adjustments/repairs and you should be good to go. The three areas that every VR owner should address in relation to Carbs. is: 1) Idle mixture screws. 2) Carb. Diaphragms 3) Carb. Sync. To view, work on, or adjust any of these items, you will need to remove both side covers (by removing the false tank cover first), and the lower fairing legs. (which means the radiator side covers must come off, as well as the lower cowling.) 1) I have attached a pic below with the location of the Idle mixture screw circled in red. Before I do this adjustment, I shoot a little WD40 in the hole. By the way, all of these adjustments are done with the bike OFF unless I say other wise. You will do this to all four carbs. the same way and to the same setting. (keeping it simple) Take a small flat blade screwdriver and insert into the hole circled in red, rotate the screwdriver until you find the slot, very gently turn the screw clockwise until it bottoms out. (*WARNING* YOU ARE SEATING A NEEDLE INTO A SEAT, IF YOU CRANK THE NEEDLE TO HARD INTO THE SEAT, YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SEAT AND HAVE TO REPLACE THE CARB. BODY!) With that being said, I use two fingers and lightly seat the needle. Once this is done, turn the screw counterclockwise 2 1/2 turns. Do this to each Carb. This is a really good place to start and you may find that the screws are all over the place. If you have a decent digital tach. you can "fine tune" each screw for max rpm with the motor running at idle. This is a very tedious procedure and the 21/2 turns deal will get you pretty close. 2) Here is the link to my write-up of the replacement of the Carb. Diaphragms with pics, you can use this to inspect the Diaphragms as well. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=32052 When you destroy the cheap phillips head screws trying to get them out to inspect the Carb. Diaphragms you may want to check this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifi...uct/1643/cat/6 3) Here is the link to my write-up of a Carb. Sync. using the Morgan Carbtune tool. You will use the same procedure no matter what type of Manometer you use. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=35274 And there you have it! you are now an expert on VR Carbs! There is one other mod that can be done to "lean out" the mixture during crusing called the 5bikes needle mod, when you check out the other items above and get them up to snuff, PM me and I will walk you thru the mod. If you have questions, need equipment or parts, just ask! Good luck on your project, you've got some work to do! Earl
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