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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, I would love a set of those inserts. Have you figured out what you want for them yet? Count me in for a set! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, As far as that oil soaked air filter goes, you may want to try the crankcase vent mod, It worked really well for me. Here's the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32356 Are you sure the leak is not the valve cover, they can be a hard one to find sometimes. Good luck on finding it, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, At this time, I don't know the answer. This all started for me when I tried to buy parts for an 83'VR that was in my shop. My local dealer gave me parts and as I went thru the final drive mostly replacing seals, Something didn't look right. The ring and pinion gear had a different amount of gear teeth. I called my dealer, they called Yamaha, and I got the explanation above. I started asking questions about the different final drive in the 83's and the answer I got was "our records for American production motorcycles of this model are incomplete." The Yamaha Rep I deal with said they purchased that first group of final drives, Installed them in the 83's until they ran out, and when they purchased the next group of final drives, it was the redesigned final drive that is in everyone's bike. Jimbob, I don't have a GPS, (wish I did) and my speedo is off around 7 MPH at 70. I use this to stay out of trouble on the freeway, I usually run 5 over the posted speed and this has worked pretty good for me. Randy, If you look at the part numbers for the 83'VR and the 85'VMAX both of these engines run the same intake and exhaust cams! The only difference in the top ends is the small bore Carbs. which didn't hurt the 83'VR at all in my opinion! As I find out more, I fill in the gaps. I think this is really cool to find out all these little tidbits about these fine machines! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Sorry I didn't answer the many questions posted, I've been out riding! I'll see if I can catch up. This is for seaking, The paint I used on the FJR final drive is a Rustoleum "Hammered" copper. I have been using it on the R1 calipers, the screens in the lower cowel and the screens in the radiator side covers. It sorta' compliments the Elegant Brown which is the color of my 87'VR. They make an entire line of Hammered colors, I think it looks similar to textured powder coating. This is an answer to those that think they might have the VMAX final drive in their 83'VR. Today, I was on the freeway and at 70MPH I was at 4200 RPM's, If I remember correctly, with the VR final drive I would be at 3650 RPM's at 70 MPH. Now, this is for all who are wondering about the 83'VR final drives. As Yamaha entered the race to compete against the goldwing, It produced the 1983 VR and they used higher lift cams and the "VMAX" final drive. The 83'VR final drive has smaller bearings for the ring and pinion gears and holds less gear oil than the later model VR final drive. Somewhere along the way they realized they had created a "Monster" and due to some final drive failures decided to tone down the gear ratio and redesign the final drive pumpkin with bigger bearings and larger fluid capacity.They thought they had the 83'VR "reined in" by using the smaller bore Carbs. but as it turned out that 1200 motor was getting plenty of fuel! In 1985 when the VMAX was introduced, Yamaha already knew about the benefits of the VMAX gear ratio from the 83'VR and put that gear ratio in the redesigned final drive pumpkin. I have actually seen a few VMAXs with the smaller 83'VR final drive in them from the factory. They usually didn't last long. By the time the 1984 production run started, all of the 84' and up VR's had the "taller" gear set that we all have till the last year in 1993. So if you are one of the lucky ones that has an early production 83'VR, your bike was the "testbed" for the VMAX! How cool is that!?!? I hope this clears things up for everyone. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Gee Boomer, The air must be REALLY THIN way up there in the North Eastern States, because anyone who would think that a Harley "Wanna' Be" with that big chunky "Dunkin' Doughnut" front tire, and those six foot long mufflers that look like they belong on a "leaf blower" could ever outrun one of the finest sport/touring machines ever produced on the planet needs to get his "seeing eye dog" a new pair of glasses! I would be more that happy to put my "Washing Machine" up against your "lugger, bagger" any day my friend! I guarentee that you will feel like my sister's prom sweater when I'm done with you, washed, spin dried, and hung out to dry! I might not be able to out top end an 1800 gold wing (I never found one that had the sack) but I regularly "snack" on the "safty chrome" of almost every late model production bike out there, including YOURS! I waited to post this until you slapped us first genner's around more that once, I'm pretty slow to get fired up, but am willing to back up everything I have said here. My name is Earl Harrell and I proudly own one of those 22 year old "washing machines". Wanna' Race? Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Smitty, Depending on when your 83'VR was manufactured, you could ALREADY have the same gear ratio as the VMAX! The Yamaha in-line 4 Cylinder FJR1300 is a performance BEAST compared to the VR. They wind up much quicker, red line higher and the trannys are geared for getty-up, period! Plus they are lighter. With all that being said, The only way to know for sure if you have a VMAX final drive is to be able to view the drive shaft and the final drive splines, count the revolutions, and then you would know for sure. (basically, remove the final drive) 9.9 revs of the drive shaft to 3 revs of the final drive splines equal a stock VR final drive. 11 revs of the drive shaft to 3 revs on the final drive splines equal a VMAX/FJR1300 final drive. Let us know what you find out! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Lynn, As I have said before, YOU are my role model because of all the mods you have done to your bike. I have nothing against the VMAX final drive, as a matter of fact my 86'VR had the VMAX final drive in it and worked just dandy. It just so happened that all of the biker planets were in alignment for that short period of time when I had my money and the FJR rider had crashed his bike. I mean, what are the chances of finding a bike with 3500 miles on it and the guy not wanting an "arm and a leg" for the final drive. I lucked out big time, and have been reaping the rewards for the last few days! I am really looking forward to the Skid-In! Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    More power is not going to do much good if you don't turn the throttle! Redneck has noted the best mods for the price, but until you use the rev limiter as your "brake" you havn't even come close to tapping the power of the Yamaha V4. Honestly, I have never heard of anyone ever gernading a 1300 motor if it has been maintained correctly, but I see both First and Second Gens. all the time that have performance problems due to "lugging around" in overdrive. If I don't feel the hairs on the back of my neck stand up once a day, I go for another ride! Here's some interesting reading: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37388 Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Ed, I am a big fan of Dielectric grease on ANY connector I open. With that being said, It's almost too late to try to repair or replace a bunch of parts before your trip. A dab of the Dielectric grease on the connectors you opened might not be a bad Idea. When you get back, I have a fuel pump for sale, If you are interested, PM me. You might want to take a look at this thread on the Fuse Box issue: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2131/cat/6/date/1156391368 Also, make a copy of the VR.ORG members in the area where you are traveling, it may come in handy if that fuel pump or fuse box desides to take a dump on you while you are out on the road. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Andrew, The stock size for the First Gens. on the rear is 140/90/16. You can't really go any wider on the rear because of the clearance between the drive shaft tube and the tire. I have seen the Kenda tires for $75.00 with free shipping alway up to $150.00 plus for a good Dunlop or Avon. It depends on the type of riding you do, one up or two up, pull a trailer, Carry lots of stuff in your luggage bags and how deep your pockets are. I run the Dunlops, I'm not much of a "Pegscrapper" so I like the wear of the Dunlops and the load range. The twisties guys swear by the Avons and I must admit they look really good on a First Gen. VR. It's a personal decision, but at least you have the Tech. data you need. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    The VMAX and FJR1300 final drives have the same gear ratio. After the install, my RPM's went up 550 RPM's at the same speed, (example: old rear 55 MPH= 2500 RPMs, new rear 55MPH= 3050 RPMs.) Results, Hole Shot is breath taking! (almost scary) as far as top end goes this 76,000 mile motor PULLS STRONG until the speedo is BARRIED!!! Before, the engine would go flat at around 105 MPH, on a long strait it would "creep" up but not pull strong. I don't know what this is going to do to my gas mileage but for all the extra power I got......"I'll suffer"! Now, about the drive shafts, the FJR1300 swing arm is 50MM longer, (2.050 ins.) so I had to use the VR drive shaft, fortunately for me the VR drive shaft was in excellent condition. I "Prussian Blued" the old drive shaft and the mating gear on the FJR final drive and the wear pattern was "Spot ON!" Overall I am very happy with this upgrade, The only issue I forsee is the gas mileage one, and like I said..."I'll suffer" with that one! Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    For anyone that is interested, If you go to page 2 of the thread below, you will see pics of the needle for the main jet, the original nylon shim and the replacement S.S. washers used in place of the nylon shim. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35110&page=2 If anyone has any questions, Feel free to contact me. This has been a very effective mod for increasing the gas milage on the First Gen. VR's If anyone lives close to South Central Pennsylvania,and is mechanically challanged, I do the Carb. Diaphragm Replacement and Needle Shim Mod here in "my little shop by the creek" for a bargain price. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, Thanks for taking the time to let us know the results of your needle shim mod. Many times someone will talk of doing a mod on their bikes and you never hear the results. I have been doing a lot of Carb. Diaphragm replacements lately and I tell everyone that if you want to see an improvement in your gas milage, do the needle shim mod at the same time. Some get it, some don't. I would love to take a ride with you sometime, I bet that bike of yours is a real screamer! Thanks again, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    I have been thinking about changing the final drive on my 87'VR since I have owned it. The first VR I had an 86' had the VMAX rear in it and I loved that bike. The thing I didn't like about my 87'VR is the gearing seemed "tall", when I was in the "sweet spot" of the engine I was flying down the highway at 85 plus! I began my search for a new final drive in November of 2008. Here is where I give cudo's to Squeeze, that young man has forgotten more about Ventures, VMAXs and FJR1300s then I will EVER know. I looked at about a dozen low mileage VMAX final drives and I just didn't like the Idea of the shock mount stud sticking out the side of the pumpkin. Thats when Squeeze told me about the FJR1300 final drive. He said "the FJR final drive has the same gearing as the VMAX and it is a mono-shock rear just like my 87'VR, the best of both worlds! Well, needless to say there aren't to many people parting out their late model FJR1300's and when they do, they want a pretty penny for the final drive. Being laid off has given me a lot of time to work on my bike but very little extra money. I have been selling off some items on Ebay and putting together the many "Kits" you have seen in the Classifieds. Well, last week the scrimping and saving finally paid off, I found a FJR1300 final drive in pristine condition, with only 3500 miles on it. I wish I could say that the rest of the bike was in as great of condition as the final drive but it looked like the owner of this beautiful machine drove into a brick wall at 100MPH! Anyway, I got the final drive and have attached pics below of the disassembly and reassembly of the entire of my 87'VR. I used the Honda Moly 60 Paste on all of the splines and the Belray 80/90 for the gear oil. Smooth, quiet, and this final drive took my old 87'VR to a whole new level of performance. Take a moment and have a look at the pics, if you have any questions, I will be more than happy to answer them. And once more, THANKS AGAIN SQEEZE, You Da' MAN! Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Lewis, I just wanted to let you know that Jonas returned to Iceland on June 12, 2009. The company that he works for has him working in Greenland and he returned to the job site Monday, June 15, 2009. His access to the VR.ORG site is somewhat limited while away from home so it might be a while before he answers your post. (I didn't want you to think he was ignoring you) By the way it was a pleasure meeting you and "the wild bunch" from down south and hope we could meet up again in the future. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, Sometimes, we NEED someone we admire and respect to cut thru the BS and deal it strait off the top of the deck for a change! If you don't have these mods on your First Gen......then you might as well have a Second Gen. cause that's the way your riding your bike! Again, Very Well Said! Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    I have had good luck using the kind of vise grips the welders use to clamp to pieces of metal together. A "C" clamp will do the same thing. No need to remove the "Ears" just bend them back into place with the C clamp and Bite the bullet and buy a new bolt. A very light "Touch" of blue locktite on the threaded end of the bolt will keep it from backing out. If you get sloppy with the locktite you will have trouble getting the stand down. The problem is caused when the bolt backs out. If you keep the bolt tight, the ears can't spread apart. You have caught this just in time, bend ears, buy new bolt, go for ride. You did good! Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Maineac, According to the numbers you posted, the tires should be the EXACT same width. the 150 number is the tread width, (150MM) the 80 number is the height of the sidewall, which is 80% of the 150 number, (120MM) and the last number is the rim size. Using the numbers for the front and rear tires, the rear tire is 24.4488 tall and the front tire is 25.4488 tall. (1 inch taller) but the same width. According to the numbers, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Vic, I have a 60,000 mile 1300 VR motor with no problems you can have for $100.00 It's not the prettiest motor I have ever seen paint wise, but it is a good solid motor. You'll spend more than $100.00 :mo money:for gaskets if you split the cases on your motor. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Thanks for posting about the condition of your sliders as they pertain to the installation of the new Carb. Diaphragms. Because I work on other peoples bike for hire, the two times I opened up a Carb. body and found the sliders to be separated the way you have shown in your pics I have replaced the entire slider assembly. I considered these sliders to be sub-standard. I was wondering how you re crimped the brass retaining ring back to the plastic slider body and was also wondering if it came apart the first time under normal use, (which it is not supposed to do) what method did you use to reattach the retaining ring so it will not come apart again under normal use? As to the question of the clocking of the Diaphragm to the slider body according to the service tech. at my local Yamaha dealership, there appears to be no significance in the orientation of the Diaphragm and the slider body. He did mention that it is very important to have the tab on the outer most diameter of the Diaphragm engaged into the slot of the Carb. body so that the cap will attach tightly. You appear to be a very detail oriented and tidy mechanic (as am I) and I like that very much. I would like very much to "compare notes" on the 30 or so Carb. Diaphragm replacements I have done to the Carb. Diaphragm replacements you have done. I think we would have some interesting information to share with each other. Thanks for your post, Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Eck, On the wings, I thought you could just put the top up and drive right thru the car wash! Just Kiddin' Bro, Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, With the cost of a rear rotor hanging in the balance, plus a rear caliper lock-up due to a overheating rear caliper, I would not risk running a dragging caliper myself. I have had really good luck using compressed air to "pop" the pistons from the caliper, (I use a stack of paint stir sticks between the pistons, blow air in caliper where the brake line attaches, remove a stick or two and blow again.) until the pistons come out. Remove the cap screws to split the caliper into halfs. Pick up a Brake Cylinder Hone at any auto parts store.( $10.00) When removing the seals from the caliper halfs there are two different seals in each piston bore, the front seal is a wiper and the second is the actual seal. Keep the seals separated. Lightly hone each piston bore, clean the pistons, (I use scotchbrite for this) Yamaha makes a brake piston lube that works great and I use it a lot. If you don't want to spring for the new seals you can reuse the old ones as long as you don't tear or break them when you remove them. I have done this "cheapy" caliper rebuild several times and have had excellent results with a very minimal cost. If you decide to skip the caliper rebuild, carry a 12MM wrench and a 5/16 wrench because when that caliper drags you to a stop the only way to get going again is to let off some of the fluid pressure from the caliper, if this doesn't work, take the 12MM wrench, remove the caliper bolts, rock the caliper back and forth to spread the pads re bolt the caliper, and ride home but don't apply the rear brake. If you have questions about the rebuild, PM me. Hope this helps, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Bill, What a good job you did on the manual fan switch! I wish my electrical ability was as good as yours, there are a couple things I would like to do to my 87'VR but my skill level isn't that good. If it wasn't for GeorgeS My bike would STILL be sitting on the side of the road! Congrats on a job well done! Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    I am SURE that there will be more than one person that would like to see the "Master" at work on a bank of First Gen. Carbs! I personally would pass on the Sat. Ride just to watch him "do his magic" on a set of Carbs! Thank you Mini and Muffinman. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Poor Dan, You sound just like my High School Prom Date, She said "I don't have a dress to wear to the prom, I can't go", I told her not to worry, everything will be all right. So, > > > > >> > > > > > > > > I took her to the Prom....Naked! Earl
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