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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    When the whinning starts on my 87'VR............ I make Jean get off and walk!!! But Really, my 87'VR whines, and when I changed the rear diff. to the FJR1300, it whines at a different speed but same RPM, 2600 to 3000 RPMS. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, I am really glad to hear that you and Rose are OK! I live on a dirt road and have almost ate it more times than I care to think about. Be safe and I hear that Ice Cream is an excellent "healer" of that bruised "ego muscle" Earl and Jean
  3. skydoc_17
    Both Jean and I just wanted to let you know that you and your daughter have been very brave thru this whole ordeal, and we both hope that you can finally have closure on this now. Prayers sent for your families recovery, Earl and Jean
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Pappa, To the best of my knowledge, there is only one car tire that will come close to fitting and it has never been found in stock. Because of the driveshaft tube clearance issue the stock tire barely fits in there. There just isn't one for the front. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Larry, I live in South Central Pennsylvania, and our riding season is not the longest to begin with. With that being said, I try not to do any repairs that will "take my bike out" for any length of time unless it is something important. I have had really good luck using WD40 on both the Kill Switch side and Choke side switches. Hold a rag under the switch housing, and drown that baby with WD40, keep working all of the buttons and see if that will loosen that pesky switch up. If this does work for you like it did for me, redo it every month or so thru the riding season or if you get caught in the rain or get "crazy" with the power washer! January is a great time of the year to take those switch housings apart!
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, Hang in there, Here's hoping that things work out for you. I know it must be tough for you right now, but it is always darkest before the dawn. Earl and Jean
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Seaking, I posted this a while back about Rotors and Calipers: Take what you need, leave the rest. Interesting Facts About The Stock Rotors and Calipers! The stock Yamaha rotors on the first gens. are made from a relative "soft" alloy steel by todays standards. The use of the aftermarket "HH" cintered pads really take their toll on them in the way of excessive wear and warpage. The optimal union was the organic pads and the stock rotors. This and the linked braking system were cutting edge technology..... in the eighties! The reason you are seeing "chatter" on the aftermarket Rotors and HH sintered pads is two fold, you are using a more modern rotor made from a "Harder" more wear resistant alloy composition and you have a "harder" HH sintered pad in a two piece caliper which is 25 year old technology. There isn't a performance motorcycle currently produced that uses two piece calipers any more. As far as running rotors that are under spec thickness wise goes, the problem is that the pistons are extended so far out of the caliper bore that they actually "cock" which causes premature seal failure and compounds the "caliper flex" which causes chatter and lock-up. One trick I have had good luck with is to replace the pads at 50% wear to keep the caliper pistons from overextending, This gets expensive if you do a LOT of riding. The other thing you can do is change your braking habits and use more brake pedal instead of always grabbing the the hand brake, after all you are using ONE caliper and ONE rotor to stop an 800+ pound motorcycle when you have THREE calipers and THREE rotors available. Option "C" is transform your 22 year old braking system to more modern technology as shown here: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27170]http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27170[/ame] Have questions, need parts, want someone to install this mod on your bike, PM me. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    If it were me, I would ride out the season, and do the repair in the off season. You will get a better price on the labor in the winter, By the way, what method are they going to use to repair it and what are they going to charge for this "Rush Job"!?!? Other than the noise, there is no damage being caused by a loose baffle in the collector. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Dennis, If you were going to pull this trailer EVERY DAY, over long distances, you might see a small benefit in having a V-Nosed trailer MPG wise, or if the engine in your truck or SUV is just barely big enough to pull the trailer with two bikes in it then a V-Nosed trailer might help you out a bit aerodynamically speaking, but if you are pulling with a V8 pick-up or V8 SUV and only plan to use this trailer a half dozen times a year then you should consider getting a conventional rectangular trailer. There is a LOT of wasted space in the V-Nosed trailer, it is going to be longer and heavier then a regular trailer with the same amount of "usable room". And a V-Nosed trailer is going to be much more expensive when purchased. Due to the economic downturn, many people are selling really nice low mileage trailers for a fraction of what they would go for new. If you are lucky enough to have cash in hand I am sure you will be able to find a regular enclosed trailer, in excellent condition, in the 7'X14' or 8'X16' range in the $2500.00 ball park. If you go shorter or narrower, you will feel like you are "threading a needle" when you go to pull that second bike in the trailer! Another suggestion would be to go to a trailer dealer and actually tow a V-nosed and a regular trailer with the same amount of usable room and see if you can tell a difference. Good luck on your search, These are my thoughts on this subject, for what they are worth, Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    The adjustment for the throttle "free play" is on the left side of the bike, (as you are sitting) Turning the nut on the end of the cable will add a bit of free play. I have had good luck splitting the "Kill switch Housing", flooding the cables with WD40, to loosen things up and then using a good cable lube to get some thicker oil in there. SAE 30 motor oil works well also but is hard to get in there. Most dealers sell a lube set-up with a small straw or "stinger" to inject the oil into the cables. This is something you want to address, a sticking throttle cable can cause big trouble in intown traffic! Hope this helps, Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, If that "big old honda" is getting too much for ya' you could always "Trike It"!!! Or Maybe a pair of Car Tires would "firm it up" for ya'! (Glad to see ya' aren't selling the Yamaha!) Good Luck on the sale! Earl and Jean
  12. skydoc_17

    Skid-In 2010

    skydoc_17 replied to Skid's topic in Watering Hole

    Can we come early...........Like next weekend? Sign on Earl's bike: "WILLING TO INSTALL SECOND GEN. SHOCK FOR FOOD" Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    I will arrive on Friday the 17th and will be camping the 17th and 18th. My daughter is in town from San Diego so Jean will not be able to attend. (that's going to cost me a mint when the girls go to the mall!) Looking forward to seeing Big Tom, Bob's Big Foot and a big ice cream! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Chris at Flatout Motorsports is the Bomb! 1-765-342-6335 or use the link to go to the online "Parts Shark" website! Tell them skydoc_17 from VR.ORG sent ya'! They will do you right! Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    You need to be very careful trying to spray polyurethane clear coat on the painted surfaces of our VR's. I have seen paint bubble off as you apply the clearcoat. With that being said, I have had good luck with a product called Kit. (sold at wally mart) It is a plastic polish but does a good job on bringing a shine to painted surfaces. It is in a yellow bottle in the Automotive Section. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    As a guy that works on A LOT of bikes here in South Central Pa. I love it when a rider comes into my shop with a bike running poorly because of "high test" gas usage. I sell a lot of plugs, I clean a lot of Carbs. and do a lot of maintenance on these bikes as a result of the WRONG gas being used in them. I just wanted to say "thanks" to you guys for keeping me so busy! Keep up the (not so) good work. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, What a nice looking 88'VR you have there. I have always wanted one with those colors. Because I switched to the r1/r6 Calipers on my 87'VR I happen to have a rear stock caliper that has been freshly rebuilt but never installed because of the brake swap. If you are interested, PM me. Price the seal kits and I promise you I will give you a heck of a deal on a perfectly functioning rear caliper. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Vito, I think the part you are looking for is part # 3JB-14199-00-00 Price is $6.25 each. Try this link, If it doesn't work PM me: http://www.partshark.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Yamaha&partnumber=3JB-14199-00-00 Hope this helps, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    All I know is I escorted a Brown VR past the Saab graveyard, (what a Sob story) up a dogpatch, washed out, more bends than a snake with a broken back road, onto the highway and into Skid's garage! Other than that, I haven't seen one! That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it! Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    I didn't think Skid actually knew what his new bike looked like, he was smiling so BIG his eyes were shut! Beautiful bike. I've NEVER seen anyone close a deal at a car lot with their GUN drawn!!! :mo money:It must have happened like that because "he stole it"!!! Congrats Skid, Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    The stock Yamaha rotors on the first gens. are made from a relative "soft" alloy steel by todays standards. The use of the aftermarket "HH" cintered pads really take their toll on them in the way of excessive wear and warpage. The optimal union was the organic pads and the stock rotors. This and the linked braking system were cutting edge technology..... in the eighties! The reason you are seeing "chatter" on the aftermarket Rotors and HH sintered pads is two fold, you are using a more modern rotor made from a "Harder" more wear resistant alloy composition and you have a "harder" HH sintered pad in a two piece caliper which is 25 year old technology. There isn't a performance motorcycle currently produced that uses two piece calipers any more. As far as running rotors that are under spec thickness wise goes, the problem is that the pistons are extended so far out of the caliper bore that they actually "cock" which causes premature seal failure and compounds the "caliper flex" which causes chatter and lock-up. One trick I have had good luck with is to replace the pads at 50% wear to keep the caliper pistons from overextending, This gets expensive if you do a LOT of riding. The other thing you can do is change your braking habits and use more brake pedal instead of always grabbing the the hand brake, after all you are using ONE caliper and ONE rotor to stop an 800+ pound motorcycle when you have THREE calipers and THREE rotors available. Option "C" is transform your 22 year old braking system to more modern technology as shown here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27170 Have questions, need parts, want someone to install this mod on your bike, PM me. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    I have a final drive from an 86'VR with 48,000 and a final drive from an 87'VR with 57,000. Neither have any noise. If you need one or the other I have them. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Jonas, It was an honor to have you visit our country, It was a privilege to have you stay with Jean and myself at our home and it was a pure pleasure to work on your bike while you were here! Stay safe, my friend. Here's hoping that you time away from home will be short and you will return home in time to get some good riding in. Your friends in Pa, Earl and Jean
  24. skydoc_17
    There is no speaker ballance per say. To test the speakers, put in a tape, and see if you still have the problem. If it seems pretty ballanced then your radio is getting a weak stereo signal and it is more or less mono phonic. Check the antenna connections. If the tape does the same thing, (louder on one side) Clean with contact cleaner and use dielectric grease on all of the connections between the speakers and the radio. If you still have the stock 20 year old speakers it might be time to replace them. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    The object of the Carb.Sync. is to have all four Carbs. pulling the same amount of Vacuum at the same time. The actual amount of Vacuum the engine is pulling is not the issue as far as the Carbs. are concerned, (although I have used the Vacuum measurement to find other problems) it is the fact that all four Carbs. pull the same Vacuum. The screws (A,B,C,) that adjust (misleading word here) the Vacuum actually BALANCE the amount of Vacuum BETWEEN the Carbs. you are setting. If you look at a Carb. Sync. as Carb. Balancing, then it is much easier to understand. Hope this helps, Earl
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