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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. Hey Gary, As the boys from Nova Scotia can attest to we had his bike at a dealer for 5 days and trailered it to another dealer and they had the bike fixed and out the door in two hours. U-Haul rents a motorcycle trail for $14.99 a day! Get one and haul that puppy to another Yamaha dealer and get her fixed! You're burning sunshine lad! Earl
  2. Steve hit the nail right on the head! Install the vent filter and NEVER mess with that crankcase vent line again! EVER! http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2211/cat/6 Earl
  3. Hey Nate, Welcome to the forum. Try this first, Start bike with choke, let it warm up, on the left side of the bike as you sit on it, there is the Idle Adjust Thumb Screw,(see pic below) Rotate the screw clockwise with your left hand and raise the RPM's. Turn off the choke, and check the tach. keep adjusting the thumb screw until you get 1000 RPMS with the choke off. If the bike will run now with the choke off load the gas tank with seafoam, and go for a long ride, run the RPM's up to 6000 in the lower gears and if you are going to be on the highway, leave it in 4th gear for a while. The object is to force as much of the seafoam thru the jets as you can and chugging along at 55 MPH in 5th gear ain't gonna get er done! Do this for 3 days in a row, gas up with the seafoam, ride it like you stole it, let it sit over night and the seafoam will do it's magic and then do it again! Keep the gas tank full, and keep adding the seafoam. ( the can says 1 oz. per gallon, I go a little heavier that that) After the three days, put in a fresh set of plugs, ease up on the seafoam for a tank or two and still drive the hell out of it! At this point if you are getting bad gas milage, or it still won't run, then we can start to check out some things. If you have questions, PM me, I been thru this quite a few times and this pretty much normal for a bike that has been sitting for a while. Good luck, and don't be afraid to rev that puppy up! Earl
  4. Hey herb, You are going to need a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers to get that puppy out. I bought a set at Sears amd it went pretty well for me. Keep track of how the parts come out of the master, if you don't get them back in properly, the thing will never work. Mine had old brake fluid all around it and it was a bear cleaning all of that off to get to the snap ring. You can PM me if you need more info. Earl
  5. Hey Gary, I have seen some people just change the Mechanical Seal (ceramic seal) use the old gaskets and lucked out. If I was doing the job at my "little shop by the creek" for you this is what I would replace to make sure that you NEVER had to do it again! After all these parts are 26+ years old! 6SKU: 93306-00004-00 BEARING (B6000)1$11.59http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif7SKU: 93101-10090-00 .OIL SEAL1$3.33http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif8http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/common/images/icoPartSuper.gif Loading... SKU: 11H-12438-00-00 SEAL, MECHANICAL1$13.41 9SKU: 93211-16591-00 .O-RING1$4.38http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif 14http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/common/images/icoPartSuper.gif Loading... SKU: 26H-12449-00-00 GASKET, water pump1$4.72 If your Impller is plastic: 2SKU: 1FK-12450-00-00 .IMPELLER SHAFT ASSY1$37.98http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif And I would do this just so you don't have to go back in there ever again! 18SKU: 26H-12446-00-00 JOINT1$28.37http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif19http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/common/images/icoPartSuper.gif Loading... SKU: 93210-27194-00 O-RING2$5.54 These prices are from South Seattle Motorsports, Flatout Motorsports's prices are cheaper and they are closer to you. If you go to your local Yamaha Dealer, plan on paying about 25% more for the parts. While you are there add the drain plug upgrade and you should be good for years to come! http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6 Hope this helps, Earl
  6. Hey Dan and Deb, Thanks very much for the kind words, it was a pure pleasure to have you visit our home. As Dan mentioned, Dan and Deb came all the way from Ohio to visit "My Little Shop By the Creek" and we had a wonderful time today! Dan and I worked in the garage on his First Gen. VR which by the way is a very nice, low milage bike and Jean and Deb kept us supplied with drinks and great conversation. Everything we did to the bike turned out great and Dan and Deb accepted our invitation to have an early dinner with us! Good food, great company, and a bike came there running and went home running, it doesn't get any better than that! Thanks again for the visit, Earl and Jean P.S. Glad to hear Deb found her keys! E.
  7. Hey Doug, Here is what you posted: "I switched the washers to the other side of the retainer clips on the needle valves, and balanced the carbs again, and it richened it out just right - no more too lean cutout and stumbling, just good, consistent power now, and it's running cooler as well." Could you please give me some more info on this comment. Are you saying that you put the stock nylon washer back in the slider and moved the washers to the other side of the retaining clip or are you saying that you left the nylon spacer out completely and moved the washers to the other side of the retaining clip? Also, what is the total thickness of the spacing washers you used? Thanks in advance, Earl
  8. Hey Thom, Boy, sometimes this site cracks me up! :sign woo hoo:With that being said, there is a mod for the First Gens. where you make a set of brackets that relocates the rear trunk and backrest back 2 inches which would move her knee back 2 inches. Try a thread search and if you can't find anything PM me and I will help you out. The only other thing I can think of is I used to squeeze right behind Jean's knee when she would "put the spurs to me" like you described. After about three rides she stopped. I am a no BS kinda' guy and that might not work for you. The trunk mod might. Earl
  9. When you delink the brakes and remove the proportioning valve, an air bubble gets trapped in the top of the rear master cylinder. The fix is to move the rear brake line to the spot where the left front brake line used to be connected. (see pic) This will allow the air bubble to escape and all will be well. The downside is that you are going to need a longer rear brake line with an angle on it like the one in the pic. I sell this line for $45.00 plus shipping. It is a stainless steel line and top quality. The other thing I wanted to mention is that if you didn't rebuild the rear master cylinder you are going to have a bear of a time pushing fluid to the rear caliper. I used speed bleeders and a vacuum pump to speed up the bleeding process. I have rebuilt master cylinders for sale as well. If you try to rebuild the rear master yourself, invest in a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers, you'll need them! If you have more questions, or need parts, PM me. Good luck with your project, Earl
  10. My 1987 VR's light comes on at 165 to 175 miles. This bike has roughly 80,000 miles on it and I constantly ride it like "I just robbed a bank" plus I now have the FJR 1300 final drive in it. On my recent trip to NY for the meet and greet I got 197 miles on 3.98 gals. ( 2 lane secondary road 55 to 65 MPH). There are three things I did to my bike that increased the milage, 1) I replaced the Carb. Diaphragms, 2) I did the Fivebikes Needle Mod., 3) I installed a Crankcase Vent Filter which stopped pumping the oil mist from the crankcase into the Carbs. Those of you that know me KNOW I do not hesitate to "drop the hammer" on my First Gen. VR and I NEVER get less than 40 MPG and on the highway run close to 50 MPG. And all of this is with the FJR 1300 final drive, if I had the stock final drive I bet I could break 50 MPG easily. If you are interested in any of the mods. I have done drop me a PM and I will give you the skinny. Earl
  11. Hey Craig, If he told ya', then he'd have to kill ya'! I guess!?!? Earl
  12. Hey Seaking, I have the answer for this one! I recently had to shim the FJR1300 Final Drive I installed in my First Gen. 87'VR. With the acorn bolts removed, you install the axle bolt. The Final Drive should be pretty much flush to the drive shaft housing, if it is NOT then a measurement is taken with feeler gauges (I actually used gauge blocks). I then machined a "shim" the same thickness as the gap and installed it BEFORE tightening the acorn bolts. I have included two pics of the shim and it's location. (marked with red arrow). Don't forget to put the Moly60 on those splines! Hope this helps, Earl
  13. Hey Bob, Depending on when your bike was manufactured, you could have one of the early model 83'VRs with the VMAX rear end. This swap is going to be A LOT EASIER than a gear change in the transmission. (removal of engine, cracking of the cases, cost of gasket set, etc.) In addition, I have never heard of a taller 5th gear as a replacement for the stock 5th gear. If gas mileage is your prime concern, then I would be looking at the Carbs. and their condition. A check of the Diaphragms, the Fivebikes needle shim mod, and a good washable air cleaner would be things I would check out before cracking the cases on the motor. There is a check to find out if your rear end is the stock rear or the VMAX rear. I have a good used stock rear for your VR if you are interested as well as matched shim sets for the needle mod. If any of this sounds interesting, PM me. Good Luck with your quest for better gas mileage, Earl
  14. In about 10 minutes I will be driving to the airport to catch a flight to San Diego. My oldest son just finished college and is getting married to a wonderful young lady. I am very proud of him. Wish me (and him) luck as I trek across the country. Any VR.ORG members in the San Diego area want to get together for a beer while I'm there? Should I bring my Carbtune? Earl and Jean
  15. I have attached a few pics of the repair of Gary's Bike after the accident. He was struck by a full sized Pick-up and is VERY LUCKY to be alive in my opinion. As you can see from the pics we were pretty deep into the First VR to get her back on the road. With both mechanical damage as well as body damage it was a daunting task! Not to mention the 8 hour ride that was waiting for us after we got the bike back together! Bongobob was VERY GENEROUS with the parts we needed to put the First VR back together again. We even had an offer to trailer the bike down to Central Pa. by of all people A HARLEY RIDER! (thanks to Barry Mac Claren for the offer!)I have rarely seen such a spirit of selflessness and was PROUD to be a VR.ORG member on that day! I had a nightmare about the accident last night but was glad that we all made it home safe and sound, Thank You ALL for your kind words, prayers and warm thoughts, they kept our spirits high as we rode home to PA. in the rain and the dark! I was humbled by everyone's kindness, Respectfully, skydoc_17
  16. Both Jean and I wish Vic a speedy recovery and know that Barb will take good care of him. My brother had the same surgery and is now "a new man"! Best wishes for a speedy recovery, Earl and Jean
  17. GS 51 (Gary Swartz) and I rode together thru rain and the occasional plastic part that flew from the First VR until we got to Phillipsburg, Pa. where we parted ways and I finally got home at 11:30 pm. I was grateful that we had minimal problems on the trip home. Thanks to all who came to our aid and you NY members are top notch in my book.:thumbsup2:I was true to my word, NO VR MEMBER LEFT BEHIND! Thanks Again, Earl
  18. Gs51 and myself left from South Central Pa. at 8:00AM headed to Chaffee, NY for Big Tom's meet and eat. Soon after we left, it started to rain, and rain, and rain some more! We finally got to Pioneer Motorsports around 3PM, wet tired and hungry. By 4PM the rain had followed us to Pioneer Motorsports. Big Tom very graceiously offered to let us spend the night in his very nice, DRY home. While at his home Big Tom showed us his famous "Blonde Cyote" (NO, NOT Taters'!) Hopefully, tomorrow's weather will be some what drier. Earl
  19. Because you have the MKI VR (1983 to 1985) you have the solid (non slotted) rotors. A few answered questions might give us a clue as to what is making the noise. Are you more of a right front (hand brake) kinda' guy? Or do you use the foot brake regulary? Do you know for a fact that the right rear caliper/ left front brake caliper are functioning properly? Are you using the HH sintered brake pads on the front calipers? Is the Left front brake caliper dragging slightly? ( with bike on center stand, lift under oil pan with jack, spin front wheel) If you have checked the tire and spin the front wheel and the bearings rotate properly, you could have a "glazed" left front rotor and what you are hearing is the brake pads in the left front caliper "chattering" against the glazed rotor creating a harmonic vibration. As you lean more or go faster in the turn the vibration sounds like a hummmm. If I was going to go to all of the trouble to remove the wheel to replace the front bearings I would use a scotch brite disc and deglaze both rotors on both sides and have a real close look at both calipers.(rebuild) Then the entire front end would be "good as new". If you will answer the above questions, we will see if we can nail it down for you. Earl
  20. Being a Machinist, I have seen this more times than I care to think about. If you don't want to remove the head to get to the block then two products come to mind. Both are used the same way. The first product is a Helli Coil. you would run an oversized tap into the hole with the stripped threads and retap it for the Helli-Coil which would return the thread to the same size it was before being stripped out. You use the installation tool to install the coiled wire that returns the thread to the same size. The next product is a Keen-Sert. Same principal, Tap the hole with the oversized tap, only with this one, you put the Keen-Sert on the end of the head bolt and screw it in. There is lock tite on the outside of the Keen-Sert and once you torque the bolt, the Keen-Sert is locked in place. If you find that the hole in the block is too far away to reach with the tap, braze an extension rod on the end of the tap, this can be done with a small cylinder of MAPP gas sold at any hardware store. I think these are your 2 best choices for a lasting repair that will allow you to remove the bolt later. It's a shame you don't live closer, I could take care of this for you in my "little shop by the creek"! Good luck, Earl
  21. Hey Todd, Welcome to the forum andGood Job, Please keep us posted on what you find out about these TCI's. I am very interested. I have an 87'VR and am on my second TCI myself. I twist a pretty good wrench but am "Electrically Challanged" to say the least. Thanks for your help on this issue, Earl
  22. Hey Jeff, You be sure to show those "wet behind the ears" puppy boys how things get fixed 'round here! Don't take any wooden "sand dollars". It was a pure pleasure to hang with ya' at Skid's, Hope we can do that again when ya' get back! Don't forget to DUCK! Earl
  23. As nice as Squeeze's offer is, you don't need to go that far, just chug up to South Central PA. and I'll show you all of my pretty LED lights.................................... ON THE BACK OF MY BIKE! It doesn't say "WANNA' RACE" for nothing!
  24. Hey Squid, Here are a few pics of a Ventureline Back Rest mounted on my MKII 87'VR. If you need more, let me know. Earl
  25. Hey Art, Welcome to the forum, you will get tons of good info here! Nice scoot, by the way! First off, let me say that you could spend a LOT of time comparing a First Gen to a Second Gen., They are different bikes for sure. Now to a few of your questions, The being pushed around by the wind is an issue many Second Gen. owners talk about, you might try different tire pressure changes to try to minimize this affect but the bottom line on that is..."it is what it is". About the rear tire on the front, The rear Elite III is a six ply tire and the extra two plys make for a firmer sidewall, so there is less sidewall flex at low speed. The extra plys also contribute to longer tire life. I think Dunlop makes an excellent tire for the Venture, many people like the Avons. I consider tires to be a personal decision, based on tire life and how they allow the bike to perform compared to my riding style. About the seat, There is a member here, Rick Butler that does a "mod" to the stock seat that almost all Second Gen. owners Rave about called the "butt butler". You could try doing a search for threads related to that or start a post asking people that have had the mod to give you some feedback. About the pipes, The availability of aftermarket exhausts for the Second Gens. is a lot deeper then for the First Gens., The HD Road Kings can be made to fit easily and have been touted as a good blend of deep sound and good performance without being "Too Loud". There are others like the "Nasty Boyzs" but you are getting into the holy cow, that was loud range. Again, sound from your scoot is a personal preference, I run Jardines, most think they are too loud, I love them! Of course I'm also about half deaf! My suggestion would be to attend a few meet and eats, ride with some Venture owners and check out their bikes and the mods they have done, it's a lot cheaper than buying a bunch of stuff that doesn't suit your tastes. My final suggestion would be to "ask questions!" If you have discovered something that is working for you, talk about it! If you are struggling with an issue on your scoot, complain about it! Others will post and describe what they have done to solve the problem or what they have changed to git rid of the problem. Thanks for sharing the pics of your "new to you" scoot! Earl and Jean
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