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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Gregg, While in there changing the plugs, bite the bullet and replace the fuel filter! Once you have it out, cut it open and look at whats inside. If there is a lot of debree then you may have a fuel pump going bad on you. My guess would be the coil but I thought wrong once before and it turned out to be the fuel pump. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Last weekend I assisted SteveD and Buddy Rich install Valve Cover Gaskets and do a Valve adjustment to SteveD's 90'VR. We used the Valve Cover Gaskets for the 2nd Gens. and they are ugly as He!! but are MUCH easier to install. We didn't need any RTV and they sealed like a champ!. There is a large rubber "Rib" all the way around the perimeter of the gasket that makes it very rigid and easy to install. When you see the 2nd Gen. gasket you will instantly see what I am talking about. I will admit, this job is not for the "faint of heart". Lots of stuff has to come off the bike and you need to "manhandle" the Valve Covers to get them back on. This might be an excellent opportunity to "lure" a fellow VR.ORG member over for lunch and a gasket job. Just a suggestion, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Great Job on the upgrades! Don't you just love it when a plan comes together! I to like to add little items for comfort or convenience and I see you do to. Good Work! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, Send me your address and cover the shipping and it's yours. It's sorta' a weird size but what ever the cost that what you'll pay. Now, will someone be so kind as to do the same for me on a RIGHT LOUVER? Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, I have an extra left side Louver if that would be any help. I to have the S.S. inserts from RGJ1985 and didn't want to "mess up" a good Louver to install them. That's why I am looking for a RIGHT SIDE Louver with the fins broken. If you can use the LEFT SIDE Louver that I have just let me know. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    I am working on a project with the Louvered inserts in the side covers of my 87'VR and need a Louvered insert for the LEFT SIDE. I am looking for one that has the Louvers broken because I am going to remove them anyway. I have attached a pic of the RIGHT SIDE Louvered insert I am going to use for this project to give you an Idea of what I am looking for only I need the oppisite side from the one in the pic. I am willing to cover the shipping, and promise to post pics when I am finished in case anyone is interested in the results. Can someone please help me out on this? Thanks in advance, Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    A Carb. Sync is always a good place to start when you are not sure about the condition of your Carbs. but because 4th and 5th gears are so "tall" on the second gens. I think you may be interested in the VMAX final drive swap. There is a vendor that takes your stock final drive in trade for a second gen. final drive that has the VMAX ring and pinion gears in it. You will be surprised how much better your second gen. will "pull" those hills with the final drive swap. I am pretty sure the modified final drive is in the $300.00 range plus shipping.Ask Freebird, he has the mod on his bike and I am sure there others that will confirm the "bang for the buck" of this mod. Hope this helps, Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Herb, Did you do the 5Bikes Needle Mod? Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, If you get over State College way, I'd be happy to ride with you for a while! It would be great to see ya' again! Let me know what your schedule is going to be and I will figure out a meet place. Earl and Jean
  10. skydoc_17
    I run the Belray 80W-90 GL-5 in my 87'VR and it has served me well. I run it in all the bikes I service (unless someone requests something different), never a problem. It's one of those personal choice things. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I am wondering what has made you decide why you think you need all of those extra parts? Did the caliper lock up on you? Is it dragging? Do you think the rotor is warped? I have rebuilt quite a few rear calipers and have only had to replace the pistons due to damage during the removal by the owner. (vice grip marks, chisel marks, etc.) And at $75.00 times 4 that is going to be a really special caliper. Normally I replace the seal kits, 2 times $27.00 for the seals and 2 times $25.00 for the wipers. I lightly hone the bores of the caliper body and put everything back together. The stock rotor is $180.00 The stock organic pads are $25.00 I don't recommend the HH sintered pads for the Second Gens. on the rear because that have a tendency to lock up even with the organic pads. At my "little shop by the creek" I charge a flat $50.00 for the labor plus any parts you want to put in there. Most dealers call this a 1.5 hour labor job, ($75.00 to $112.00 per hour in my area) If you could give us a little more information about why you think everything on the rear brake system is junk perhaps we could save you quite a few bucks and make you feel more "warm and fuzzy" about the repairs. Waiting to help, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    The stock mirror's are the same on all First Gens. Good Score! Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    While at the material yard today I picked up a bar of stainless steel round stock. I will be making all of the bushings out of stainless steel. I will even polish them. All we need now is the measurements. Thanks Condor. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    I have actually seen the results of a fried positive cable three times, once the positive cable insulation had "rubbed thru" and grounded on the frame and twice I've seen a starter motor with the brushes shot (worn down to a nub) pull so many amps that it melted the positive wire. I have also seen a piece of metal drop on the positive terminals of the starter solenoid and do the same thing. If you have checked the positive cable and there are no bare spots, and you didn't drop a wrench on the starter solenoid I would be looking at the starter, remove it, blow all the dust out of it and check the brushes. Lonestarmedic made up the last batch of 4 gage cables and they were not cheap, but the quality of these cables is the best I have ever seen. You could jump start a tank with them! I put a set on my 87'VR and my bike starts first time, everytime. If he still has any left,(they went like hotcakes) you will not be disapointed i assure you. I have a good used starter if you need it. Hope this helps, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    My 87'VR has 88,775 miles on it and needless to say is a bit "loose" in the engine dept. I do VERY LITTLE riding at idle so I prefer to adjust the Carb. Sync. in the 2000 RPM plus range because I am looking for the bike to perform when I am actually riding down the road, not at idle, I could care less how it sounds at a stop light. Just my thoughts, Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Well Steve, When you are sitting on the bike and rock it forward to get it OFF the center stand, when the center stand flips up, it shoots that pipe RIGHT UP YOUR PANTS LEG.........THATS WHY! Dang Doughnut Munchers! Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    I purchased an 18MM deep well socket from sears, I have a stubby 3/8 drive extension that is about 1" long. It takes about 3 miutes to get my plugs out. I use a 4" piece of 1/4 inch fuel line slipped over the end of the plug to start the new plugs, I then tighten them with the socket. Total time 10 minutes. I did away with the heat shields long ago, they're a TPIA and The engine seems to cool better without them. Just the way I see it...your milage may vary. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    I am 6' tall but weigh 175 soaking wet! I handle on average 2 of these bikes a day and on some days, 3 or 4. I cut a piece of 11/2" pipe about a foot long and slide it over the "Horn" of the center stand. The pipe multiplies my weight nicely and I can carry it in my side bag for on the road. The technique that works best for me is left hand on the handle bars, right hand on the passenger grab rail, knuckles in, right heel on the pipe (slid over the horn) straighten right leg, lean back towards rear of bike and the center stand will lever the bike up. I always remember to remove the pipe as soon as the bike is up on the center stand. (don't ask why!) Hope this helps, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Marvin, I thought you were asking for two spacers and that you gave the size in the first post. I do not know what size the spacers should be as I do not have the floorboards on my 87'VR. My suggestion would be to mount the floorboards with the spacers you have and then measure the gap where the two missing spacers would go. Put a bolt in the mount hole of the floorboard, LIGHTLY snug it up and measure the gap. I am pretty sure the OD and thru hole would be the same so we just need a length. If you can provide that info or if another member has that info I am more than happy to make all of the spacers needed for anyone's floorboards. As to your choice of material Marvin, I think the brass would look really cool, never rust, and if you want, I could make you an entire set of brass spacers. You would be the "first on the block" to have them, thats for sure! I'LL EVEN SWEETEN THE DEAL, IF ANYONE HAS THE 4 SPACERS THAT MARVIN NEEDS I WOULD PAY TO HAVE THEM SENT TO ME AND WOULD PAY TO SEND THEM BACK AFTER I MEASURE THEM AND I WOULD SEND A SET OF POLISHED BRASS SPACERS TO THE OWNER OF THE SPACERS FOR FREE ALONG WITH HIS PLATED SET! CAN WE GET THIS FELLOW VR.ORG MEMBER'S FLOORBOARDS MOUNTED, OR WHAT! Thanks for your help, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Yea Mini, Thats him, He's the guy with the "Blond Coyote" Hangin' (around) in his den. I think she has a "thing" for knuckle dragger jokes! (Long Story, gonna' get a beatdown over this!) He's also the guy that brings a "swimming pool" to a campout! Yep, that's him! Let me know when the shirts are ready, I'll swap some ladies undergarments for them. We luv ya', man! Earl and Jean
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Marvin, I can make those two spacers for you at "my little shop by the creek"! I have no way to chrome plate them but you can have your choice of steel or polished brass. $15.00 for the pair and $7.00 to ship USPS Priority mail. If you are interested, let me know. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Now Dano, Don't make me come up there and install that fuse box upgrade kit you bought, I bet it's still sittin' in the bag!!! You Electricians are all the same! (My brother is one!) Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    I'm surprised BEER30 doesn't have one of those puppy's! very cleaver! Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Here's the deal on your present tire, you are currently running a 4ply tire on the front, and the amount of weight it is carrying is at the upper limit of the load range (if not over)! By running a rear M/C tire in reverse on the front you are putting a 6ply tire up front which gives you a higher load range and stiffer side walls (4ply side vrs. 2ply side walls). I personally don't know of anyone running a C/T up front but I do know of a few riders running a rear M/C tire on the front in reverse. Hope this helps, Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Nate, I would like to address your comment about the #1 Cylinder you made earlier. When you do a Carb. Sync. You use a tool called a manometer which measures Vacuum (suction). On our Ventures, the #2 cylinder (left front) is the master. All of the other Carbs. are set to this Carb. When you adjust screw "A" ( left side of bike, see pic below) you are ACTUALLY BALLANCING the available vacuum BETWEEN Carb. #2 and Carb. #1. If Cylinder #1 is higher (more fluid in your homemade Manometer) then turn screw "A" counter clockwise and lower the fluid level to match Cylinder #2. If Cylinder #2 is higher then turn Screw "A" clockwise. When you have Cylinder #2 and Cylinder #1 BALLANCED, go to the other side of the bike and ballance Cylinder #3 to Cylinder #4 using Screw "B" (right side of bike, see pic below) When Cylinder #3 is BALLANCED to Cylinder #4, use your Manometer to ballance the right side of the engine (Cylinder #4) to the left side of the engine (Cylinder #2) using screw "C" ( right side of bike, see pic below) In other words, if any one Cylinder is higher or lower then the rest of them, use Screws "A", "B" or "C" to BALLANCE them untill they are all equal. Use small adjustments and after an adjustment, "blip" the throttle a time or two to get the engine to accept the adjustment. If anyone has any questions, PM me, I love to help! Earl
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