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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    I have had brake lines start to vibrate at certain RPMs and cause noise and the keys are another good example, if you just installed a windshield, then look for items that are making contact with the plastic. If this were a First Gen. I'd say put it on the center stand, run it thru the gears, give it some gas in each gear and the move around the bike and listen for the noise. I have found more than one noise, rattle, clank, vibration and used a zip tie to solve the problem. If you find the noise is in fact coming from "inside the engine", then you could be looking at the removal of a cover or two but I would definitely take the time to eliminate the external noises before I went ripping into the side of the engine. I have had to put a few bikes back together after a "Tweaker" ripped into the side of their engine only to find out it was the kickstand or fender vibrating. Good luck, Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Welcome to the site, I'm glad to see that you are not afraid to "get your hands dirty" I usually split the halves and use a brake cylinder hone on the caliper bores. Unless you damaged the pistons with vice grips during the removal, you will need to buy 2 seal and O'ring kits. (1 kit does one half of the caliper) Hold on to your hat when you hear the price for the kits. If you damaged any of the pistons, PM me, I have extras. Be sure to lube the seals and o'rings with brake fluid before you try to install the pistons. The flat bottom goes into the piston bore. Keep asking questions, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Jimbob, I'm not exactly sure what you are asking for. Do you need the cruse control panel or do you need the entire wiring harness for a MKII VR? I have both. Help me out here, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    I have a final drive from a 1988VR with 38,000 miles on it I would sell you. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Shawn, You would see a 550 RPM decrease with the stock final drive. I would be willing to swap a low milage final drive from an 88'VR for your VMAX final drive. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    DO NOT USE YOUR CAR TO CHARGE YOUR BIKE BATTERY WHILE IT IS HOOKED UP TO THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OF YOUR BIKE! With that being said, If you don't have a Battery Charger (Not a battery tender) to charge the battery OUT OF THE BIKE!, Then return it to where you got it and get a new Battery, and while you are there, purchase a battery charger to charge the battery with. There are a few tools that are "must have" items, this is one of them. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Eddie, Count me in for one! A pic would be nice. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    He will be missed. Roadhouse is one of my all time favs. R.I.P Patrick Earl and jean
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Scott, I too, have the 87'VR with more than double the miles you have, (80,000 miles) and the only lock-up problems I have ever had were a rear caliper lock-up due to over filling the rear reservoir and the left front caliper lock-up due to the brake fluid not being changed when I first got the bike. Since then I have rebuilt all three calipers, I flush the fluid in the brake and clutch lines every winter and I make sure to NOT over fill the reservoirs. By the way, I would like to tell you how nice your 87'VR looks but I didn't see a pic on your Profile Page! Ya' need to fix that! Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    The Bev is right on with his post, Go thru Paypal! As a seller and buyer on Ebay for quite a while now, I have had to use the "Buyer Protection" a few times and every time with exception, Paypal has come thru for me. Be persistant but not rude and you will find you will get your money back. Be sure to leave negative feedback for the seller, these days, it really hurts them. Just my thoughts, Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    I have the right side bag, the chrome bumper and turn signal light from an 86'VR in good shape, But alas, the color of the bag is not Tan. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    This old thread is what I did for all LED rear lighting. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26087]LED Lighting Project Finished! - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, If you would move those water falls farther from your fuse box you wouldn't be having all of the electrical problems! Glad you had a great time, We could ALL use more R&R time! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    The bending the shifter part is not a hard thing to do, it's the breaking the chrome plating part that would be the bummer! Place the shifter in a large vise and place a bar of steel (or Brass) round stock perpendicular to the shifter and close the vise. The steel shifter material is pretty soft(mild steel) but the chrome plating is not very flexible at all. Good luck with this project, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    In it's current configuration, The best time I have run the 1/4 mile is an 11.86 @117 MPH. The bike will run consistant low 12's but on this run "all the planets were in alignment". This was on a 1987 XVZ1300 First Gen. with 80,000 miles on it, With fairly new Dunlop EII's and on regular gas. On my very first run, I dropped the hammer and "got the hole shot" but the front end came up and I "chickened out".... and still ran a 12.33 @109 MPH. If I would have had "the sack" not to let up I think it would have been the best run of the day. I don't drag racing often enough to be very good at it but I was shaking "like a school girl" by the end of the day. My hat's off to you Squeeze, riding a 10 second machine..."just for fun" takes a "sack" as big as a lawn and leaf bag! Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Max, There are a couple of things that I would check if it were my VR and the 1st thing would be the Steering head bearings. They are located under the cover where the Ignition Key goes. You might give the upper retaining nut a "smack" with a hammer and punch to tighten then up. The next thing I would check is the front tire for uneven wear and tire pressure. Also you can elevate the rear end slightly by using the CLASS Control Panel, go into manual, select the rear shock and add a few pounds of air at a time to transfer some more weight to the front end. Sometimes it takes a combination of the above items to solve the problem. Lastly, a good aftermarket front fork brace has worked for some of the members. Let us know what you figure out. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    During the early 70's The newly formed EPA said that no vehicle can be sold in the US that vents combustion byproducts into the atmosphere. All the auto and motorcycle manufacturers were scrambling to create a "stop gap" measure to divert the old "road draft tubes" to a place that would allow the vehicles to be sold in the US. It turned out the the PVC system was such a cheap fix the to this day it is used and causes many of the problems I fix on motorcycles and other vehicles every day. Introducing oil into the air intake system of a bike or car is not a good thing from a performance standpoint and if adversely affects all parts of that system. It decreases gas mileage, fouls plugs, contaminates carbs and fuel injectors, and ruins air filters, or in the case of the K&N filter causes you to clean and recharge them a lot more frequently. I recently pulled my ad for the Crankcase Vent Filter Mod because of complaints from the "tree huggers", but after consulting some of the other members I have decided to put the ad back in the classifieds and let each rider decide for themselves if this is a mod that you want to do to your bike or not. My name is Earl Harrell and I welcome your comments.
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, This is one of the more "Nasty" jobs on a VR that must be done from time to time. I have attached a few pics so we can talk about it. In the first pic called side view, this is pretty much what you get to see after you have removed the side cover and Rad. side grill. (Keep in mind that on this bike the outer fairing has been removed.) Removing the 4 bolts that hold the Rad. in place has worked the best for me. It allows you to rock the Rad. away from the frame and gives you access to the top Rad. hose and the thermostat housing as you can see in the pic called Rad. View. The thermostat housing is actually located behind the inner fairing and there is not a lot of room to work in there. See pic called Up View. The hoses are formed, and can only be purchased at Yamaha for the best fit. They are still available but are not cheap. I have replaced a few Rad. drain plug hoses at my "little shop by the creek" due to leakage but have had to replace VERY FEW of the larger main hoses except for damage due to a crash. I DO install new hose clamps to as many hoses as I can get to because that appears to be where the leakage occurs. Unless you have one that is actually leaking, I would say that you would be OK to reuse them. YOU are the final judge on that call. In the final pic called WP Tube, if this is the tube you are speaking of I have ordered and received these o'rings just last month from Southwest Moto: 21http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/common/images/icoPartSuper.gif Loading... SKU: 93210-27194-00 O-RING 2$5.54http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif Just click "ADD TO CART" and you are there ready to buy. ( I have dealer software in my computer that allows me to find any part for the Yamaha Ventures, I am sharing that feature with you.) If you really want to bullet proof the coolant system, replace the drain plug hose and add the Rad. drain upgrade to your VR listed in the classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1724 This is the other pesky place that leaks during temp. changes and if you ring the Phillips head screw off trying to replace the drain screw then you will be replacing the entire assembly. Hope this helps, If you have any questions, or need parts, let me know. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    WOW Gary, This is very impressive work! I would be VERY Interested in an enlarged version of the MKII 86' to 93 version of this wiring diagram. This is totally cool! Thanks very much for all the work you have put into this, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    If that aren't really"fixing anything" and you weren't happy with the results, then my friend, what exactly are you paying for. $800.00 would get you an "Around The World" at Helga's House of Pain! For $800.00 you could have went to Cody! Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Jean has the weekend off for Roar in the Mountains. I didn't know about the Winber Rumble.I'm not sure the weather is going to be kind to us this weekend but if it is I would ride up there with you although Jean has to work. Let me know, Earl and Jean
  22. skydoc_17
    Ron, I PM'ed you! Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Did you by chance stick a tooth pick in the Vacuum port of the #2 Cylinder? Sometimes these ports get plugged up and need to be cleaned. Carb. Cleaner and the little red extension work well for this. Did you try one of the other lines on the Carbtune to make sure that it isn't the Carbtune malfunctioning? Just a thought, Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Thanks for the write up!! I too have a vibration issue with my dash and this seems like a doable fix for it. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Because the final drive on BOTH First and Second Gens. is vented just fill the rear end till it starts to "dribble out" and put the plug in. The extra 1/2 oz. of rear end lube will lower the operating temp. of the final drive by 5 degrees (actually tested it). Any extra gear oil will exit the final drive in the form of a mist thru the vent. (see pic below)
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