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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Dr. Mike, Those 4 bolts went out USPS Priority Mail Service First thing this morning! Thanks for covering the shipping! If you need anything else, give me a yell! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Ed, Did you do a re-paint on your 87'VR? Man, that looks great! Did you do that yourself or did a Pro do it?! Hey Ed, I'm not sure how you connected the VMAX double banjo splitter to the stock mount on the front of your VR but I now make an adaptor bracket in stainless steel with all of the hardware that really cleans up that area nicely. If you are interested, PM me and I'll send you a pic. Nice job on the swap and the paint, and thanks for the kind words! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Beeev, Those Jap tank bolts are real soft, what has happened is you got that one just a bit too tight and you have "pulled" the threads right off of the bolt. I would suggest that you run a tap drill right thru the bolt and the threaded hole on the tank bracket and use an SAE (american thread) tap the next size up and tap the hole after you take the tank off. And if it bugs you to have 2 different sizes of bolts on the tank, drill out the other threaded hole on the other side and tap it the same thread. Depending on what size the stock tank bolt is, I could send you a drill and tap for the cost of the shipping to use and you just send it back to me when you are finished. PM me if I can help you with this. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Thom, Thanks for the kind words, a lot of calculations went into the VR to R1 Brake Swap to make it as easy as possible. If you are talking about the brake line that goes from the double banjo to the front Master Cylinder hand brake, I have that line in S.S. in stock. As well as the two lines that go to the calipers. Those lines really improve the function of the R1 Calipers and give your bike a "sporty" look. If you are interested in them PM me. As Thom will attest to, the pics and written instructions really make this job easy. Thanks again Thom, Earl
  5. skydoc_17

    054 SHIM MACHINED

    skydoc_17 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    054 SHIM MACHINED

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  6. skydoc_17

    VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

    Images added to a gallery album owned by skydoc_17 in Member Albums

    THESE PICS SHOW HOW I MODIFIED AND INSTALLED A 2003 FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE ON TO MY 1987 VENTURE ROYALE. AFTER PUTTING ALMOST 10,000 MILES ON MY 87'VR I DESIDED THAT THIS BIKE HAD WAY TO MUCH "TOP END" I WANTED IT TO PULL BETTER THRU SPEEDS UP TO 80 MPH. WELL, LET ME TELL YOU AFTER THIS SWAP, SHE PULLS BETTER NOW! THE RED ARROW SHOWS WHERE I HAD TO ADD A .054" SHIM SO THE FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE WOULD BE PERPINDICULAR TO THE DRIVE SHAFT.
  7. skydoc_17
    REAR WHEEL FINAL REMOVED

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  8. skydoc_17
    FITTING NEW FINAL DRIVE

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  9. skydoc_17

    054 SHIM INSTALLED 3

    skydoc_17 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    054 SHIM INSTALLED 3

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  10. skydoc_17

    NEW DRIVE OLD DRIVE

    skydoc_17 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    NEW DRIVE OLD DRIVE

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  11. skydoc_17

    FJR1300 FD PAINTED

    skydoc_17 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    FJR1300 FD PAINTED

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  12. skydoc_17
    BAG GUARD MUFFLER OFF LS

    From the album: VR TO FJR1300 FINAL DRIVE SWAP!

  13. skydoc_17
    Because I work on mostly older bikes, (that darn 5 year warranty!) The local Yamaha Dealer sends the bikes that are more than 10 years old to my little shop! They don't have a mechanic that knows the older technology and they just don't want to be bothered with them. I try to treat every bike I work on as if it was my own, so I am not the fastest mechanic in town. But on the other hand, when you get your bike back, there will be nothing broken and the service that was performed will be done as well as it could be done, no matter how long it takes me to do it right! The two local dealers within 100 miles of my home won't even work on either my 86'VR or my 87'VR! Makes you wonder, for sure, how can they stay in business! On a positive note, the dealer's incompetence has kept my "little shop by the creek" pretty busy this summer! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I just need one more measurement and that is the pitch of the threads. (number of threads per MM) Most any hardware store will have a board with row after row of female threads in it and you just keep trying the bolt in them until it screws in. Note what the pitch is and we are good to go. 4 will be no problem. That pitch number is going to be 1.0MM, 1.25MM or 1.75MM . Option "B" is send me the bolt. Either way, I'm ready to help. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Bobby, All of this is good advise if you had an MKII 1986 to 1993 VR but I see that you have the MKI 1983 to 1985 VR and this is a somewhat different animal. I will share a few tricks I use on the MKI's and hopefully it will work for you. As to the right front Brake caliper, Take the speed bleeder off the caliper and use the stock bleeder until you get a good solid feel with the hand brake. (I'll explain about the speed bleeder below) As you already know, the rear brake and the left front break are linked. As the line that connects the rear brake to the LF brake runs up the frame, any air in the system is going to be trapped here. On the right side of the frame there is a connector on the MKI (but not a bleeder like the MKII) using two wrenches, crack this connector slightly, (have a rag handy, you could have brake fluid coming out of this connector!) press the rear brake pedal down firmly one time and close the connector. (Just like you are bleeding a caliper) Pump the brake pedal a few times and crack the connector again slightly, push the brake pedal down one time again, then close the connector. Now do the rear caliper, then the front. Then do the connector again, then the rear, then the front. Remember to keep the rear master full of fluid! I usually do this on the first day, let the bike sit over night, so the air will settle at the highest spot which is the connector. Start with the connector the second day, then the rear, then the front. By the end of the second day, I usually have a good solid brake pedal. I have found that speed bleeders work on a system that has fluid all thru it but if for some reason most of the fluid has been removed from the brake system, (Like caliper replacement, leaking brake line, M/C rebuild, etc.) then you may want to start with the stock bleeders and then put the speed bleeders in after you get a good pedal. Air in the brake line will not activate the ball and spring mechanism inside a speed bleeder, Only brake fluid will. So if you have a lot of air in the system it will not let it come out of the speed bleeder. This is one of the most tedious, hair pulling jobs on an MKI VR so be patient with yourself, work on it for a while, (I'm good for about an hour...Tops!) Then come back to it. At my shop I use a fancy vacuum sucker tool and the tricks described above and it still takes me one full day to get a solid pedal on a bike that has no fluid in it. Thats why they added the bleeder to the MKII bikes, even the dealers used to pull their hair out over this service. If you have other questions or need a break, PM me and I'll cheer you on! Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Wayne, Ya' know, you'd be 7foot 5 inches tall if half your LEG wasn't turned under at the ankle like it is!!! Signed, "Shortie"
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Brad, I'll betcha' old Ron is smilin' down from heaven knowin' his scoot is with the only other person on the planet he would want to have it! You're Da' Man in my book Squid! I don't care what you ride! Now you and DAVEPA can rub elbows, he has a VR and a Harley as well. Earl and Jean
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Bigfoot, It's never too late in the riding season to get a good "floorboard scrapin'" in I always say! You do have to watch the "angle of the dangle" on those hoofs of yours! Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Shawn, Thanks for the kind words, Shawn. That final drive was from a bike in really nice condition and I thought you would be pleased with it. That was a slick Idea not pulling the entire rear of the bike apart. I think you will get many, many smooth rolling miles out of your VR now. If there is anything else I can help you with, just let me know. Good Job on the install, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Lewis, Thanks for the kind words! Jean found my Garmin on the web for under $200.00 with free shipping! It has more bells and whistles then my high school gym coach.:rotf:When ever you are ready for your Fuse box upgrade kit or anything else, it would be my pleasure to provide one for you. You, and that "wild bunch" of long distance riders you hang with have my up most respect and it would be my pleasure to make items that would withstand the kind of punishment you can put on them. Let me know when I can help, and thanks again for the cudo's, Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Chuck, Owning a set of Manometer Gages is one of the most important tools a VR owner can have because of the 4 Carbs. on these bikes. I own the Morgan Carbtune and it has worked well for me. I have attached a link to the use of the Carbtune on a First Gen. VR with pics and even though the adjustments for the Carbs. on a Second Gen. are in a slightly different place, you will get an excellent Idea of how easy it is to Sync. your Carbs. with a Manometer. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35274]First Gen. Carb. Sync. With Carbtune Including Pics! - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Even if you choose not to purchase a Morgan Carbtune as your Manometer, some sort of Manometer is a "Must Have" Item for your VR toolbox. I am in no way connected with the Morgan Carbtune Company, they just make a good product at a very reasonable price. If you have questions, PM me. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Steve, Well the good news is your intake system, Carb. boots, and seals are in very good condition with no air leaks what so ever. The not so good news is that your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is actually vacuuming the oil right out of the crankcase! Highway speeds create a tremendous amount of vacuum in the PVC system and will pretty much suck all of the oil out of the crankcase. When I swapped out my stock final drive on my 87'VR to the 2005 FJR1300 final drive the higher RPMs did the same thing to my engine. The fix is simple, Replace the hoses going to the air box with a crankcase vent filter and never have an air box full of oil again. I have attached a link to the crankcase vent filter: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2333 Once installed, (see pic below of vent filter installed) you will see a gas mileage increase, more HP and no more oil in the air box. Plus your Carbs. will get a shot of clean air every time, no more oil mist going into the carbs. If you have questions, PM me. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Monty, I would build the mount and ship it to you for $35.00 along with the drill, tap and a tap handle, you would need to pay the shipping to return the tools to me. I will include written instructions on how to drill out the mirror hole and install the mount. If that's OK let me know. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Ken, How's it hangin' on the Big Island, Bro. This is one of those rare times when the use of grease will actually compound the problem you are having because it collects so much dirt and crud. The first thing I would do is to clean all of the old grease out of the kick stand area with a power washer (spray car wash) or you could use a can of WD-40 and blast that puppy good! As was stated above, WD-40 is NOT a very good lube so you need to put some oil on the pivot of the kick stand. I use regular motor oil because I always have some around. The important thing to remember is clean the kick stand good first, then oil it, stop using the grease. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Monty, The problem with the right side mirror hole is that it is a left hand 10MM metric thread. I looked high and low for a left hand metric bolt and there were none available at a reasonable price in stainless steel. (the cost of the 6" x 7/16-14 bolt is $5.00 just for one bolt!) I could make the GPS mount from a Stainless Steel rod but both of my lathes are older pieces of equipment and are not set up to cut a metric pitch thread. I chose the 7/16-14 bolt because it was close in size to the hole that was already in there which let me run a drill into the existing hole and then a 7/16-14 tap. If you are interested in the GPS mount I would send a drill and tap with the mount (which you would send back) for the install. I wish I could afford a newer metric thread cutting lathe but the thousands of dollars it would cost is beyond me financially at this time. That is the reason nobody uses that mirror mount hole to mount anything on their bikes. I hope this answers your question, Earl
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