Jump to content

skydoc_17

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,282

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

 Content Type 

Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Well, it's for SURE that every Second Gen. owner knows what THE BACK of a First Gen. Looks LIKE! With that being said, The First Gen. VR is a Sport Touring bike and the Second Gen. RSV is a "Cruiser" type touring motorcycle. The First Gen. VR seats the rider Erect to slightly leaning forward and the Second Gen. RSV seats the rider with feet forward, sorta' slouching and leaning away from the handlebars. Oh, but the Second Gen. RSV does come with that big old Dunkin' Donut front tire and a cassette player, or is it an 8track, I forget.:crackup:The second Gen. RSV engine doesn't REV as high as the First Gen. VR, but it doesn't matter because the Second Gen. RSV doesn't have a TACH anyway! But it does have a SPEEDO that reminds me for my grandmother's Studebaker SPEEDO, How cute! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Dennis, I am almost positive, (Keep in mind that I have NEVER seen your bike, much less worked on it) that you have brake fluid either from the brake master cylinder or the clutch slave that has dripped on the exhaust collector, and this is what you smell. You would see a "puff" of white smoke on the right side, behind your right calf for the rear master, and the same puff of white smoke on the left side, low, by your left heel for the clutch slave. Can you give us some more details on the location of the smoky area? One other thing, If you "crack" the oil drain plug, (meaning to let a little oil out) if there is a head gasket problem, you should see "milky white streaks in the engine oil. (meaning that oil and water has mixed) By turning the Radiator drain plug,(behind the lower cowl) and taking a sample of the coolant, you would look for oil in the coolant. One other thing you might try is to squirt some cleaner like simple green (Keep it off of the painted parts!) or fantastic spray cleaner and washing the exhaust collector, the clutch slave and the rear master cylinder areas with your garden hose. (now don't get crazy with the water!) Stay away from the dash, the TCI box, the coils, etc. And if you use a pressure washer... well, lets just say you better be a surgeon with that puppy! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Gasoline is BOILING (Vaporizing) at ANY temperature above NEGATIVE 200 Degrees F! so doing it on a "cold day" :cold:doesn't buy you any additional safety factor. To minimize the "Sparking Problem" cut a piece of wax paper (regular wax paper from the kitchen) and place it between the punch and the gas tank. Even extra safety would be to put a small piece on the head of the punch. While servicing fuel tanks from fighter jets (jet fuel, enough said) we drip candle wax on hammer heads, punch heads and use a LOT of wax paper. This mod has a HIGH pucker factor, but once you have done it, you find yourself saying to yourself, "that wasn't so bad". Unless of course you're running around the yard in a ball of flames! Use the wax paper, you'll be fine! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Dennis, I personally would just swap the 87'VR engine for the 89'VR motor if in fact you have a bad head gasket, or some other major engine damage. 98 HP is pretty respectable power for a bike this old. The cost of the parts to do a complete rebuild vrs. the extra power/reliability you would get is marginal at best. Now, if your "need for speed" is high enough, then the addition of a set of VMAX heads would be an excellent project. Both intake and exhaust valves are larger, the "high profile" cams open the valves wider and for a longer amount of time allowing more fuel/air mixture into the engine, which equals more HP! I would first take the time to find out where your problem is on your current engine, because if it is a hose, or the radiator,or the thermostat housing then changing out the motor is NOT going to solve ANY of these problems. Patience grasshopper, patience! Besides, you could be RIDING your bike with the 89'VR motor in it while you add the heads to the 87'VR motor, then do the swap in the winter time. A lot of Harley guys have a bike in their garage all torn apart, that doesn't make them BIKERS! Just a thought Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Dennis, There is no such thing as a "dumb question"! Only the question that is unasked! This tool will be helpful other times. And since you have a watercooled bike you need to be able to check out the coolant system. I have been working on these bikes half my life and I still get confused. Keep asking questions, and we will fiqure out what's going on. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Beav, I am glad to hear that it worked out for you. Few things feel better that doing work on your own motorcycle. Plus you saved $300.00 if you would have went to the stealer! Good Job, Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Dennis, I will try to shed some light on what the wise old Owl is referring to. You can check at Harbor Freight, or NAPA, or Advance Auto Parts, and the tool you are looking for is a Radiator Pressure Gage. You will attach it where the Radiator cap goes and pump it up. About 8 PSI outta' do it. Then let it set. If it leaks down, then you have a coolant leak. A spot on these engines that can cause the trouble that you describe is called the "Twinkie" (see pic below) It is a bear to get to, but once done, should take care of your problem. If it is a head gasket, then thats a whole different matter. (I have seen only 2 blown head gaskets on a First Gen. VR in my life!) First things first, Try the leak down test on the radiator. The only other thing I want to mention here is IF YOU HAVE OVERFILLED THE REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER, it will weep out of the reservoir lid and spill down on the exhaust collector and smell "sweet" like antifreeze. (because it is a glycol alcohol based fluid just like antifreeze) As the engine warms up, the brake fluid expands and weeps out of the rear reservoir, onto the collector, and causes the smell. Check the level, if it is right up to the threads on the fill bolt, then remove a bit, (1 oz.) and see if that stops the smell. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Cougar, Man, either one looks great! I like the way you "think outside the box!" I personally put things on my bike to make ME happy, but that's just me. The combination of the Royal Star Emblem and the Chrysler emblem was a stroke of genius! (My brother is a BIG Chrysler Fan!) And I recognized that emblem right away. Sometimes, I let my wife, (Jean) choose, which usually means a LOT of extra work! Either way, you've got a winner there. My hat's off to the gents who donated the emblems, Thats what I like about this "Family". Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    http://www.venturerider.org/ProductImages/0501204-11.gifItem #: 05012166Mfr: WaltonMfr #: 10252Big Book Page 360View similar items Extractors - Taps Type: Tap Extractor Number of Flutes: 2 Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piecehttp://www.venturerider.org/images/blank.gifQty: Price: $14.23 eaIn stock: 75 http://www.venturerider.org/ProductImages/0501204-11.gifItem #: 05012166Mfr: WaltonMfr #: 10252Big Book Page 360View similar items Extractors - Taps Type: Tap Extractor Number of Flutes: 2 Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piecehttp://www.venturerider.org/images/blank.gifQty: Price: $14.23 eaIn stock: 75WaltonMfr #: 10252Big Book Page 360View similar items Extractors - Taps Type: Tap Extractor Number of Flutes: 2 Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piecehttp://www.venturerider.org/images/blank.gifQty: Price: $14.23 eaIn stock: 75 Hey Shadow, Go to MSC.com and search Tap Extractor. I found one in the $15.00 rangs that will work. Option #2 is to take a punch and a hammer and break it into little pieces. (as another member suggested) A tap is made from hardened tool steel and is WAY harder than any drill. If you could get this part in a milling machine you could use a solid carbide drill to drill it out, but in a hand drill, you can't control the feed (downward force) enough, and because a carbide drill is even harder than a tap, it will break right off. Good luck, (it's a shame you don't live closer) Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    I hope I am not getting off topic here, but I have several complete radio systems, and a few I am willing to part out, if this would help you get your radio working again. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Gee, you guys get a little "dusting" and you freak out! I have attached a few pics of the 3 feet we got over last weekend. I got two bikes trapped in my new garage that I can't even get out! Sissy's! Earl and jean
  12. skydoc_17
    A person that is NOT Color Blind is "tricked" by camouflage, his/her eyes can not separate the irregular green and brown, (or khaki and brown in the desert) patterns from the person wearing the clothing. With a Color Blind person, since we don't see the color green, we just see a guy standing in the woods, with clothing that has a bunch of "gray" patches on it. I came from a three generation Marine family and during the Vietnam war, I tried to join the Marines 5 times. At this time, I was working for the Navy Dept. as a Civil Servant at the Norfolk Naval Shipyard as a Machinist. Even though I scored extremely high on all testing, and could have chosen any job I wanted, because of my Color Blindness, the only job I could qualify for was "Point Man" in the Infantry. The funniest thing was the Naval Shipyard was not allowed to discriminate against me because of my "Handicap". Needless to say, I passed on the point man assignment, stayed at the Naval Shipyard, was exempt from the draft, (because of my employment at the Naval Shipyard) gained a boatload of knowledge. (no pun intended) I have been working for Lockheed/Martin as a C.N.C. Machinist on everything from the Space Shuttle to EVERY American made Fighter Aircraft for the last 20 years. NONE OF WHICH I could have done if I would have joined the Military. Go figure. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Chris, Well, it's the overflow tube from the Carbs.! Go to Wally Mart and get that can of Seafoam and get some in the tank ASAP! Then take that bike for a good hard ride! I like to "roll on" the throttle on a interstate on ramp in second gear pretty much to red line. Run it for about 30 minutes or so. If it leaks again, take it for another ride! PM me if that doesn't do it. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Doug, Before you go ripping out that starter you may want to take a look at the right side handlebar switch. This contains your "run/stop" and "starter" switches. Remove the two Phillips Head screws on the bottom of the unit, clean BOTH switches with contact cleaner, and put a "dab" of dielectric grease on the contacts. Next, if you don't plan on upgrading the battery cables in the near future, Remove BOTH battery terminals from the battery, wire brush them, use a dab of dielectric grease on them and reinstall. Next follow the ground terminal down to the right side of the engine, remove the bolt, wire brush BOTH sides of the terminal end, scrape the paint from the engine case, wire brush the bolt and any washers and reinstall. If you are feeling "frisky" do the same thing to the end of the positive cable where it connects to the starter. I have a good used starter, and I can order a rebuild kit and either rebuild yours or rebuild one of the used ones I have here at my shop. If any of this sounds interesting, please feel free to PM me. If you have other questions, PM me as well. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Chris, This happens often when a VR sits for a while. A little "Seafoam" in the tank will keep things in the Carbs. lubed and should stop the float from sticking. Often the fuel will trickle down the overflow tube and vaporize before it puddles under the bike, In the beginning! Then the float will stick more often, or more than one float will stick and you will see gas under the bike. As far as removing the seat goes, There are 2, 12MM bolts on the sides of the seat that need to be removed to take the seat off. There is a piece of plastic trim on each side of the bike and inside the counter bore you will see the head of the bolt. Try 1/2 can of Seafoam to a full tank of gas, take your bike for a "brisk" ride and by the time that tank of gas is gone, your Carbs. should be OK. If not then you may have a more serious problem. If you have questions, or try the Seafoam and that does not work, please feel free to PM me and we can look at some other things. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Both Jean and I were glad to see a post from you! Our prayers go out to you and your grandson. Just knowing that you are "still Kickin'" is a great comfort to us. Please continue to post so we all know you are OK. It is great to hear from you, remember to take care of yourself, we've got some riding to do this summer! Best wishes from Earl and Jean
  17. skydoc_17
    33 percent of ALL males in the United States are Color Blind! (Of which both my brothers and I are) It is a genetic disorder passed from our mothers to the male offspring. (Daughters carry the gene and pass it on to their sons) Genetic Color Blindness is in the Red and Green color spectrum. What this means for 3 1/3 out of EVERY 10 male drivers is "If it ain't YELLOW or BLUE, WE DON'T SEE IT!" PERIOD! It has nothing to do with not paying attention, it has to do with a Color Blind person NOT being able to detect a red or green light. There are only 10 animals on the planet that have the ability to enjoy the entire color spectrum (most everyday animals like dogs, for example are red/green color blind as are many wild animals) This is why you can wear an ORANGE vest in the woods and not be seen by a deer. This is also why most states have gone to blue lighting on the tops of their emergency vehicles. A blinking white light has more meaning to me than ANY red or green light. Until you have "walked a mile in the shoes" of a Color Blind person, you have NO IDEA what it is like to see a Rainbow and only see the yellow and blue strip and not feel cheated. Or be drug from your vehicle by a LEO and beaten with a nightstick because you didn't see the red flashing lights behind you. Or you can't fly a commercial or military airplane, or be a doctor, or an electrician, or be a Machinist in the military for that matter. I run a "blue dot" tail light on my 87'VR (which is illegal in Pa.) and have gone to court twice for it, and have won both times! Once you explain this handicap to the average person that enjoys the entire color spectrum, they understand. Most people don't understand how big a problem this is, and some people are color blind and don't even know it, "you don't miss what you never had" as my dad would often say. I LOVE yellow turn signals on vehicles, they have saved my life more that once! The next time you are turning or coming to a stop, ask yourself, is the guy behind me one of the 3 out of 10!!! My name is Earl Harrell and I live with the challenge of Color Blindness, every day!
  18. skydoc_17
    We got HAMMERED over the weekend, 21/2 feet of snow in 11 hours, lost power and heat for two days. It started snowing AGAIN last night and now we have another foot of snow with winds 40+ MPH. Because of the plowing I did over the weekend, I have 15 foot snow drifts in front of my shop! We are literally running out of places to put snow!! I am getting weary of winter. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Barend, Because of the difference in bore size between the MKI and MKII rear Master Cylinder, the MKI rebuild kit WILL NOT fit the MKII Master Cylinder. (and vise versa) When I got my 87'VR (5th one I had) I rebuilt the MKII master cylinder and replaced the Diaphragm in the rear master cylinder right off the bat and have not had a problem since. I have a MKII master cylinder and can get the diaphragm for you. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Shane, First Off, Welcome to the site! You are not the first person that has wanted to pull their hair out over the linked brakes on a VR! With that being said, lets see if we can ease your pain here. This job is going to take 2 days to get decent results if you are not using a vacuum pump. (harbor freight, $25.00) As you have found out the rear brake and the left front are connected together. When you pump the foot pedal, the brake fluid only moves 1/16 of an inch in the brake line, so from the rear M/C to the front brake caliper is "A Lotta' pumps!" REMOVE THE SPEED BLEEDERS, these work great if you are changing out the brake fluid in either of the master cylinders but when filling brake lines that have been emptied because of a caliper change, air in the lines will not put enough pressure on the speed bleeder valve to open it.(trust me on this) You can put these back on AFTER you get the brake lines charged back up. There are THREE bleed points on your 86'VR linked system for the rear and left front, one is the rear caliper, two is the front left caliper, and the third is a bleeder on the right side of the ignition switch, on the "goose neck". Putting a clear tube (tractor supply, Lowe's, Home depot) from the bleeder to a bottle 1/3 full with brake fluid in it keeps air from reentering the bleeder, plus seeing the brake fluid move gives you a glimmer of hope that this nightmare will be over...sooner or later!:crackup:Bleed the rear caliper for a while, move the tube to the goose neck, and bleed for a while, move the tube to the rear caliper and bleed for a while. (you get the Idea!) When you feel like you want to saw on your wrists with a rusty tuna can lid, go to harbor freight and get the vacuum pump! Or just keep pumping and going between the rear and the goose neck and the front caliper. To sum this all up, The REMOVAL of the Speed bleeders and the use of the tube with the bottle 1/3 filled with brake fluid are going to get you farther along then you have been and don't feel bad, I've seen Grown Men cry and gnash their teeth over this job. If you have more questions, just ask, we've ALL been there, done that. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Both Jean I were sad to hear of the loss of your son. Our prayers go out to you and your family. Earl and Jean
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Barend, You might want to take the cover off of the Rear Master Cylinder Reservoir and make sure the accordion style diaphragm is not swollen and sticking down in the reservoir. This would cause the fluid to be low and you might have sucked some air into the system. Just an FYI, the MKII rear master has a larger piston bore, with a rebuild you could increase your braking power with the addition of the MKII Master. Lastly, check the linkage and pivot at the foot pedal, rust and lack of lube will sometimes cause the rear foot pedal to compress the rear master and not let the piston to return. Plus, your rear caliper could need a rebuild and the pistons are Stuck. All good things to check out. Any one "weak link" in the braking system will effectively "take out" your brakes. After all, all of those parts are 27 years old. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Tim, This just came up on Ebay and is an excellent road bike for a young person. Sporty, PLENTY of power, a V4 like Dad's. The Ebay item number is: 110491052900 (Disclaimer: I do not personally know the seller or have first hand knowledge of this motorcycle) Current bid price is $2100.00 and that is very reasonable for this nice a bike. With only 3,1xx miles this is a cherry. I have attached a pic below. I have owned a few of the V4 Honda's and loved them all. Plus they make a very nice aftermarket windshield for these bikes. Don't show this to your son unless you are ready to buy it for him! Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Lynn, Thanks for that very useful bit of information about the sensor and the ring gear. I was freaking out a bit over some kind of magnet on the ring gear. Does this swap increase or decrease the speedo error on the Second Gens. because of the number of teeth on the ring gear? Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey herb, Great to see ya' Back! If you are going to pull that 86' motor this would be an excellent time to "A" replace the stock motor mounts with new stock ones or "B" Install solid motor mounts and fuse this engine to the frame to reduce frame flex and give your bike a much more solid "feel" on the road. (the front two motor mounts on all of the Second Gens. are mounted this way) You will see much better handling in the corners and much better weight distribution under acceleration. Also this is a great time to Moly 60 the splines on the drive shaft and dielectric grease EVERY CONNECTION you remove. Oh yes, check your Carb. boots VERY CLOSELY for cracks, Move the TCI to the Air Box, New plug wires, heavy duty battery cables, check the Carb. Float Levels! (you get the Idea) Good Luck with this very interesting project. Just my thoughts, Earl
×
×
  • Create New...