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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, The Parts are the same as the PCW kit. Because I don't have the Overhead of PCW, I am able to cut the profit margin and this is how I am able to sell this kit for less. This mod has been around for Approx. 15 years and I personally have installed this upgrade in 10 First Gens., and Two Second Gens. (including my own personal bike) in the last two years. I have had NO PROBLEMS with any of the installs to this point. It has only been in the last 10 days that I have been able to get the completive pricing on the parts that has allowed me to offer this kit at the current price. This $67.00 upgrade will keep you from spending hundreds of dollars replacing your stock clutch when in fact it is the clutch spring that has failed, not to mention the increase in clutch performance due to the stiffer clutch spring and replacement of the half Disc with a full Genuine Yamaha clutch friction Disc. I could has used a China made, low quality clutch cover gasket, or a "knock off" clutch spring to make a few extra bucks but I assembled this kit as if it was going in my own personal motorcycle, which is how I do ALL of my kits, Striving for quality first, and a reasonable price as the second consideration. My personal opinion about repairs/upgrades like this is, if I am going to go to the trouble to do this repair/upgrade, I only want to do this ONCE! I am a pretty NO BS kinda' guy when it comes to modifying motorcycles, if it don't work, I don't try to sell it. We have ALL had that "sick" feeling in the pit of our stomach when you just KNOW that something isn't right about the way your motorcycle is functioning, and because I have been there myself, I would NEVER lead someone to believe that a part or upgrade is the Cat's A$$ if in fact it wasn't. The last thing that I can offer that your Dealer or PCW can't, is if during the install you have a question, or a problem with any of the kits I sell, you can PM me or call me on my cell phone (my phone number is in my profile) and I will stop what ever I am doing and give you my undivided attention until your question is answered or your problem is solved. There are quite a few members here that will attest to that fact. My wish is that you would give me the opportunity to provide that service to you, Like it was in "the good old days". Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Ross, Because I own a First Gen., I geared up for the ads I placed thinking that the First Gen. owners would be all over this. Well, I didn't expect the Second Gen. owners to respond as well as they have to the ad. I have placed an order this morning for the Clutch Cover Gasket which is the "special" item that is the difference between the First Gen. Kit and the Second Gen. Kit. I have been assured that those Clutch Cover Gaskets will arrive early next week and I will be able to ship out all orders by mid next week. (March 10, 2010) I apologize for this slight delay, but please understand that I am working on a somewhat limited budget and I wasn't sure this would be something that people would be interested in. Now, as to your question about the Second Gen. rear shock, I am in contact with a Rep from Olin Manufacturing, ( European company, ultra high end, excellent quality products) And I am trying to "Sort out" the engineering "challenges" of a replacement shock for the Second Gen. RSV and RSTD. If I can be bluntly honest here for a moment, What I have discovered so far is that the reason Yamaha sells their stock shock for $450.00 is because it is a cheaply made shock of fair to poor quality and Olin will not put their name on ANY product that doesn't meet their quality standards. Which means that we are going to be talking about a shock that is priced more like the Works replacement shock. ($600.00+/-) With the financial power of a "Group Buy" I think I can beat the price down somewhat, but to be honest, If $450.00 is buying "Junk" then paying $600.00+/- for THE LAST SHOCK YOU EVER PUT ON YOUR Second Gen. doesn't sound so bad. Like I said, I'm still slappin' these Olin guys around but they slap back pretty hard. I'll keep you posted. Sorry to get off topic, I guess I just Hijacked my own thread! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Beev, Thanks for the kind words. Like I have said before, "I hate getting ripped off" when it comes to buying parts. When I find a great deal, I try to share it with the members of this site because when I first joined, everyone was so helpful to me. As long as the vendor's that have been working with me can supply these parts, I will offer the many kits I have listed in the Classifieds. Sometimes the cost for the materials or shipping goes up and I have to adjust the price, but except for that I try to provide Excellent Quality parts at a fair price. I am SURE that there are some items made in China that are cheaper than some of the items I sell, but EVERYTHING I place in the Classifieds has been personally used by me so I KNOW it fits and will function properly,and usually looks pretty darn cool doing it! Thanks again Beev, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Clint, When adjusting the rear brake pedal, be very careful that you don't adjust it so tight that you partially engage the rear master cylinder. When the rear brake master cylinder warms up due to the engine heat,the rear brake will "Lock Up" due to brake fluid expansion. After a rear brake pedal adjustment, I ALWAYS carry an 8MM and 12MM boxed end wrench in case it does lock up, you can release the bleed screw and "bleed off" some of the pressure and unlock the caliper or unbolt the rear caliper and rock it back and forth to spread the brake pads. Be VERY CAREFUL, that caliper is going to be BLISTERING HOT! Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    As many of you know, I try to offer the highest quality parts at the best prices and combine them into my "KITS" to make the install easier. I do all of the brain work and you enjoy the benefits. I am now offering a "Kit" for First Gens. and Second Gens. (I didn't forget you guys!) that will replace the stock clutch spring with a VMAX clutch spring, AND a new FULL SIZED Clutch Disc to replace the "Wimpy" half Disc that is in the rear of the clutch pack, as well as a brand new Yamaha Clutch Cover Gasket. As usual, I am shipping these Clutch Upgrade Kits for free and the price is $67.00 to your door! Check the price on the PCW kit to find out what a deal this is. These kits come with written instructions and a link to the thread that explains the install, WITH PICS! The kits are different between the First Gens. and Second Gens. So be sure to order the right kit for your scoot. If you have questions or are not sure what parts you need, PLEASE feel free to PM me. Thanks for your time and good luck with your project, Earl If you have a First Gen. MKII VR (1986 to 1993) Here is a link to the ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2644/cat/500 If you have a Second Gen. RSV or RSTD here is a link to the ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2651
  6. skydoc_17
    Now don't get me wrong, I have speed bleeders on all of my bikes. I just wanted to mention one thing, If you have removed a brake line completely, say to install Stainless Steel brake lines, or to rebuild a caliper or master cylinder, and you have a LOT of air in the brake lines, you WILL drive yourself crazy trying to bleed the air out of the brake system with Speed Bleeders because the air in the line compresses and doesn't put enough pressure on the valve in the speed bleeder to open the valve and let the air out. This is the only issue I have EVER had with speed bleeders. The cure is to use a regular bleed nipple until you get decent fluid flow and then install the speed bleeder. Other that that speed bleeders are cool beans! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Josh, If you will post the actual part numbers you need, I have a "connection" in Europe that can get these parts usually. (Some of the front end parts still seem to be available there for some reason) I won't know for sure until I have the part numbers, But I am willing to help you with this project if you get me the part numbers. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Ruffy, I am sorry to hear about your misfortune with JP Cycles! Due to their prices, I have never tried to do business with them. Because I am a "Little Guy" when it comes to supplying parts to my customers, I still "Bend over backwards" to provide service to the people that have purchased parts from me, because after all, most people can get parts from many different places so the only real thing that I can offer them as a "little guy" is the service. Recently, because of the really bad weather we have had in the north east this past winter, I had parts I get from Europe, stuck on a plane, snowed in for quite some time. All I could do was stay in contact with the members that had purchased the parts, and keep apologizing. It was an embarrassment to me but that did not keep me from staying in contact with those members, (and I certainly didn't blow them off!) When the parts arrived, I ate the expedited shipping and got those parts out ASAP! I can understand that things happen, that companies aren't keeping the inventory that they used to because of the poor economy, but I will never understand if a problem arises, why you wouldn't go the extra mile to keep a customer happy when "good, money spending" customers are harder and harder to come by. If there is anything I can do to help you with those S.S. brake lines, it would be my pleasure to do so. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, When I had GS51's 1983 VR at the shop this past summer, we had a slider do the same thing, the brass ring that held the washers that retained the Diaphragm basically fell apart. I told Gary, no problem, I have a set from a 86'VR and we would just swap them out. What we found out was the slider outside diameter on the MKII Carbs. was physically to large to go into the Carb. body of the 83'VR. P/N 83'VR Slider-41R-14949-00-00 P/N 86'VR Slider-1FK-14940-00-00 Now I am willing to admit that because GS51's (Gary) VR was the very first VR produced, that Carb. set could be one of a kind, or maybe the MKI bike you worked on has a MKII Carb. set on it, but I keep a few sets of sliders loaded with new Diaphragms for members that come to my shop to speed up the swap out process and twice, I have had the problem of not being able to put MKII sliders in a MKI bike. I will mention that especially on the 85'MKI's I have seen the MKII Carb. set on those bikes more than once so maybe they started putting the larger Carbs. on the MKI bikes before they increased the engine displacement to 1300 c.c.'s. The only reason I brought it up was I didn't want this new member to go to all the trouble to round up different sliders, (maybe even buy new ones) just to find out that they won't fit his bike. I always respect what you have to say about these bikes Jack, I was just mentioning a problem I have had with the MKI's Carbs. in the past. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Brent, Just a FYI here, the MKII (1986 to 1993) sliders WILL NOT fit your MKI (1983 to 1985) Carbs. I'm sure someone has a used one laying around. When you get that slider replaced, Do a Carb. Sync. on your Carb. Set and you should see an improvement in that gas mileage. Oh, be sure to check the other three Diaphragms and sliders. Welcome to the site! Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, Thank you for going to all this trouble for this group. Jean wanted to say thanks to your wife for her patience and we both want her to know that it is a pleasure to donate the proceeds of the shirt money to a cause that she feels so strongly about. Earl and Jean
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I have a local vendor making up S.S. Brake Lines for the RSV to R1 Brake Swap. I can provide those lines for you in pretty much any angle configuration and length you want. Because I don't have a Second Gen. I have not been able to fit the special fitting on the rear brake line but would be willing to give a discount to the person that works with me on figuring what fitting is needed for the rear line. If you are interested in pricing, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I don't know if it would be helpful or not but I have a set of MKII 1990 VR stock mufflers from a very low mileage bike in very good to excellent condition that would be a direct bolt up for your 86'VR. If you are interested in them, please feel free to PM me. Hope this helps, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Eck has touched on an excellent point. I have seen the "Butt End" of a lot of VR's at "the little shop by the creek" in the past few years and one thing that I have noticed is that the swing arm bushings are hard to lube and are of very poor quality. I don't think that your swing arm is bent but the alignment of the swing arm has been compromised due to the worn out swing arm bushings. I would suspect that the combination of the new tire and 25+ year old swing arm bushings have "reared it's ugly head" as unusual side wear on that tire. I have machined a set of brass bushings for my 87'VR and the problem was solved. ( I had the same problem you had) The problem is that the brass material was not cheap and the bushings needed to be pressed into the swing arm. I have not been able to figure out a way to make a "kit" out of the bushing set and can only do this mod at my shop. Option "B" is to pull the swing arm and install a new set of OEM bushings into the swing arm and this too will solve the problem. Either way, service to the swing arm is the answer to this condition. On a side note, "brisk" acceleration, towing a trailer, riding two up, and twisties, all make this problem worse for the swing arm. So, unless you want to ride your VR like a Harley, you need to have a look at those swing arm bushings. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Hawk, I have the Harbor Freight Brake Bleeder and it functions fine! Because I work on VR's a lot by myself, This is a great tool for one person brake bleeding. The hoses are long enough that you can work the hand brake lever or be at the foot pedal to pump the foot brake and still have the hose connected to the bleed nipple. There are other methods, but it seems that they tie up you hands, and with brake fluid being so "caustic" on paint and plastic, I like to have my hands free and have the brake fluid contained. That would be an excellent score at the price you are referring to. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, I am 6' Tall, but weigh about 180lbs "soaking wet". Plus at my little shop here in South Central Pa. I usually lift 2 to 5 of these bikes a day. With that being said, I purchased a 11/2" pipe nipple that is one foot long, and slid it over the end of the Center stand "horn". (see attached pic) Standing on the left side of your VR, place your left hand on the passenger grab bar and place your right hand on the handle bars. The "ball" of your RIGHT foot goes on the end of the pipe nipple, when the legs of the center stand make contact with the floor, straighten you leg at the knee and push down with your foot. It is NOT the pulling or lifting with your arms that makes the bike go up on the center stand, it is the "stabbing" motion with your right leg that "levers" the bike up. The extra length of the pipe nipple makes a job that was once "scary" for me to do, easy. I keep one of these pipe nipples in my saddle bag in a cloth bag and can put my bike on the center stand any time I want. The whole Idea of being on one side of my VR with only one hand on the handle bars and the bike standing "strait up" was very creepy to me, this extension took care of that problem nicely for me. One other tip, have someone you trust stand on the OTHER side of your VR for the first couple times until you get "warm and fuzzy" with putting the bike up on the center stand. Once you "nail it" once or twice, you won't have any problem after that. (Disclaimer: Your results may vary, but lets hope not!) Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Dennis, I just wanted to point out a few things about this tool box from my own experience. The Gage of the S.S. sheet metal is a bit on the thin side for a tool box this size. If you are planning to "park it" against a wall or in a corner then all will be well, but if you are planning to roll this tool box all over your garage then you may want to think about a slightly smaller, sturdier box. It will hold a bunch of stuff, but don't get "heavy handed" with the drawers. A fully loaded drawer will be "tweaked" if you are the type of person that yanks drawers open and slams them shut. The Stainless Steel outer cabinet is uncoated so if you put your dirty paws on it, you will be cleaning it up later. I used regular "windex" to clean the one I had. What I ended up doing was keeping all of my tools in this big box and then loading a smaller "roll around box" for the project that I was working on at the time. That worked well for me. For the money it is a OK deal and it looks really cool, but when I left Cali. I left the box there. I now have a slightly smaller box of better quality that has been much more useful and portable for me. Just my thoughts, Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    I think I ONLY called you "stubborn" AFTER the blood was running from your forehead (from banging your head on the garage floor!) Other than that, Barend, you're a Peach! Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Dell, Welcome to the site! I think it's really cool when members from across the pond join. Just an FYI, There are two types of First Gen. VR's, there is the MKI which was produced from 1983 to 1985, (which you have) and then there was the MKII which was produced from 1986 to 1993. (1994 in Europe) Some parts are interchangeable between the MKI and MKII VR's but many parts are not. When Shopping for parts, you need to look for MKI parts. That would be the safest bet. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Squid, What a man of many talents, motorcycle repair, piano playing! Was that also you playing the "French Horn" on that one scoot?!?! What a guy!!!:rotf:Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, Welcome to the site! Don't Forget to check out Freebird's Maint. Day, (founder of this site) It's the "to die for" event of the riding season! Now, about that windshield, Looking at the front of your VR, right above the headlight, is a chrome looking piece of plastic that pretty much runs from one side of the fairing to the other. At each end of this piece of plastic there is a Phillips head screw, remove those, then the chrome piece will come off. At the bottom of the old windshield you will see the brackets that hold the windshield on, remove those Phillips head screws and the windshield will basically "fall off!" Whit the windshield of, this is a really good time to clean the top of the "dash board" because the windshield is out of the way. Reverse the procedure to install the new windshield. Be careful not to over tighten the screws. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me, and again, welcome to VR.ORG Earl and Jean
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, I have the V-Boost Manifold, but not the electric actuator motor if that would help. Was going to hook it up manual on my 87'VR. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, The Bleed Port on the linked brakes is not needed if you delink the left front from the rear. It's pretty much a strait drop from the master cylinder to the calipers. That system will bleed out in about 10 minutes. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, You have asked a very interesting question! The swingarm section is the same on all First Gen. bikes. The part that attaches to the Air Shock, is different between the MKI (1983 to 1985) and the MKII (1986 to 1992) So if you want to put a MKII swingarm and shock mount on a MKI, you will have trouble with the shock mount. However, if you want to put a MKII SHOCK, and swingarm on a MKI that might work. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Cam, Your RSTC II has two piston calipers on both rotors up front. The Rotor material is relatively hard compared to lets say a First Gen. VR for example. One option would be to go to a set of EBC HH Sintered Brake Pads which would "bite" into the Rotor harder than organic pads. Because your bike is roughly 700 pounds and you have two piston calipers up front, you are putting a lot of heat into the pistons in the calipers. You didn't say how many miles you have on your bike total, but some things to check would be when was the last time you did a brake fluid flush on the braking system? Do you in fact have a caliper that is sticking, which generates extra heat and contributes to "brake fade". Is there air in the front brake system? A brake fluid flush and bleed may solve your problem. If you just want to take your braking to a whole different level then have a look at this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2445/cat/500 I can ultrasonically clean and completely rebuild BOTH front calipers for $80.00 plus the return shipping. I also sell the EBC HH Sintered pads. If I can help you with any of this, or if you have other questions, please feel free to PM me. Earl
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