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skydoc_17

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  1. skydoc_17
    This might help: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2443/cat/500 If you want to send the seal kits with the caliper I will cut the price in half. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    I have an 87'VR that I've done a few things to (just a few) that runs a pretty consistant mid 11's at the track in it's current configuration, If I was younger and had a bigger sack, I could probubly squeeze another 1/3 of a second off that time. I have Vmax Carb. Jet kits, Vmax Final Drives, Alignment Shims for the final drives, K&N Air Filters, and other performance mods. if any one is interested. I am SURE that the NY gang will attest to the fact that the old 87'VR scoots along pretty good! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Charlie, I'm sorry, I didn't get your PM! I have been VERY busy, it's that time of the year when EVERYONE wants their bikes fixed for the spring riding season. I haven't been on the site as much as I would like to lately but I am well and other than being tired, Both Jean and I are fine. Charlie, if there is something that I can help you with, please take a moment and PM me again and I will do my best to help you. Thank you for your concern, and thanks Mini and and the rest of the gang, for letting Charlie know that I'm still kickin'! I'm feelin' "the love" as my daughter would say! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Both Jean and I wanted to wish you Safe Journeys as you drop your "baby" off for the upgrade! I can hardly wait to see the finished product. And just in time for summer. We are so happy for you and know that this improvement will guarantee many miles of comfortable riding for you. Have a great time, Earl and Jean
  5. skydoc_17
    I hear that there will NOT be a new Venture for 2012, Yamaha still has a bunch of those cheesy cassette decks left, and until they are gone, we'll be ridin' what we got! Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Clint, The lower fairing "leg" is the same on all of the First Gens. Except for the color. That's a good price for it as long as there are no broken mounting tabs. I would send the guy an email and ask the condition of the mounting tabs, just to be sure. Good score! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Dell, It's always a pleasure to hear from a VR.ORG member from "across the pond"! Check out this link about the improved Starter Clutch Mod. Dano is a great guy and is very helpful. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44547 Yes, this mod is a bit pricy but it will be the last time you will replace the starter clutch. Good luck with your project, let us know how it turns out, Cheereo, Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    The "little white gear" indeed drives the oil pump, there is no load on this gear to speak of, (definitely NOT like a transmission gear) and the material that gear is made from is called Phenolic, cousin to Kevlar, you would be hard pressed to break that gear unless the oil pump sucked a Raccoon into the pick up. There is no need to remove the clutch cover. Call it a job "well done". Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Guys, Just an FYI, the kick stand IS NOT Cast Iron. It is STEEL that has been poured into a mold, to take the shape of a kick stand. The "fix" would be to cut the foot off, remove a section of the "stem" and weld the foot back on. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, Yes, there is a difference between the front and rear master cylinders on the MKI and MKII VR's. the piston diameter is larger on the MKII M/C in the front and rear because of the 4 piston calipers. seuadr, I sent you a PM. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Kevin, You didn't say how many miles you had on your 86'VR, So it is hard to speculate about other things that might be causing this but if you were visiting "my little shop by the creek" I would also have a CLOSE look at the swing arm bushings. But lets help you get to that rear wheel first! With the bike on the center stand, remove BOTH side bag lids. You will see "Acorn nuts" at the rear of the side bags that will allow you to remove the rear reflector with "YAMAHA" on it. A 1/4 inch drive ratchet and metric sockets are "as good as gold" for removing plastic items from rear of your bike. 4 10MM bolts and a few Phillips head screws under the rear fender and under the chrome (plastic bumper) will allow you to remove both side bags. (I put all of the screws, bolts and washers in the side bag they came off of to help me remember where they go) Also my shop is small, so I usually move ALL of the plastic items outside, FAR AWAY from the rear of the bike, so my big feet or a rear tire doesn't end up breaking any of the plastic! Now, with the plastic out of the way, Go to the right foot peg, get down on the ground and remove the pinch bolt for the right side muffler. move back to wards the passenger foot peg and remove the bolt that holds the muffler support bracket. "Wiggle the muffler back and forth and up and down pulling to wards the rear of the bike, the muffler will come off, sooner or later. (don't be shy about that wiggle job) Move the muffler away from the bike. I usually remove the rear fender but some people don't. Now, go to the left side rear of the bike, on the final drive side of the rear tire, remove the cotter key and nut. (big metric crescent wrench time!) I use a piece of plywood placed under the rear tire to lift the rear tire just a bit to take the pressure off of the rear axle. With a decent sized screw driver in the "head end" (right side) of the rear axle i elevate the plywood and pull/rotate the axle until it comes out. (Watch your fingers under the plywood, that tire is going to drop when the axle is removed) Pull the tire to wards the right side of the bike to disengage the splines and roll the tire out of the way. This would be the time to check the swing arm for sloppy bushings, but keep in mind that the rear shock has the swing arm pre-loaded, so you are going to have to "tug" on it pretty good to be able to tell if the bushings are shot. (You are looking for side to side movement, there should be none) Now to the rear tire, place your index finger inside the inner bearing race and move your finger up and down to check for bearing play. Also roll the inner race to feel for the "crunchy" feeling of a bad bearing. Frankly, if your bike has 35,000 miles on it or more and I went to all of the trouble to take the rear wheel off, I would change the bearings, remove the final drive and grease the drive shaft splines. If your bike has 50,000 miles on it I would redo the swing arm bushings and add zert fittings, but thats just me. Everything goes on in the reverse that it came off. I have pretty good pricing on Yamaha parts, or if you have other questions, please feel free to PM me. I have attached a few pics. Good luck with your project, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    For that front fender, bike on center stand, after the brace is removed and the four bolts holding the fender to the fork tubes, you may find if you jack the front of the bike up, (I use a floor car jack with plywood under oil pan) you can slide the front fender from between the front fork tubes towards the front of the bike with no damage to the front fender. For the rear fender, lower the bike down on the front wheel, remove the saddlebags, pull the rear wheel by removing the rear axle and right side muffler, remove the 4 fender bolts, and while you have the rear wheel off, grease the splines for the final drive and drive shaft. It's nice to have a great looking bike, but it is every bit as important to have a bike that is mechanically sound. While you are at it, check the rear brake pads. Most owners don't attend to this end of their bikes very often, this would be an excellent opportunity to take care of EVERYTHING that needs to be addressed on the rear of your VR. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    First off I wanted to thank seuadr for the kind words. I bought my first 86'VR in 1993, I currently have over 300,000 on VR's. I have owned 5 VR's that I have ridden and have had 4 others that have been parted out. I personally, have spent a LOT of money on two marriages, three houses, 6 children, two college degrees, (that were not mine) 4 crashed cars (kids, ya' gotta love um'!) and ONE divorce! Compared to all of that money, the money I have in my current 87"VR is a "drop in the bucket". Which brings me to my point, my father used to tell me, "Son, you can't buy a good time, it just happens". Well, I think I have come as close to "buying a good time", as I ever will, you see, every time I ride my VR, or take Jean for a ride, or ride to a Maint. day, or a Meet and Eat, or just out for a Ice Cream, I have a good time. I make new friends, I help people with their bikes. The time and the work and the love I put into my VR, and my kits and mods. brings me such a feeling of pride and joy that I have never felt with any other hobby. (obsession!) Plus the rewards for all of that time and work and love is that I get to ride many more miles. ANYONE can throw down a chunk of money and have a "Carbon Copy" bike just like every other person that threw down the same money. I for one have a hand crafted, one of a kind machine, that performs just the way I want, STOPS just the way I want, and handles, just the way I want. How can you put a price on FREEDOM like that? Just my thoughts, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Dan and Mike are correct, you will need the MKII Boost Sensor (41R) the hose will connect to the port (this is the port where you would connect the line for a Carb. Sync) on the Carb. boot on the left front Carb. (cylinder#2) The hose that goes to the Boost Sensor has a "one way" air valve in it so when you get the MKII boost sensor, get the hose as well. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Brent, The MKI VR's (mostly 1983 but some 1984 models) Had the adjustable main jet needles. What Yamaha discovered was that many owners adjusted the main jet needle "way to lean" and this caused engine problems. So Yamaha removed the adjustable needles and went to the non-adjustable main jet needles. What you need to understand here is that when a bike runs "rich" it does very little damage to the engine from a warranty standpoint, but it does provide income to the dealership in the sale of spark plugs, Carb. Syncs. and tune up parts in general. It is a "win,Win," for the dealers. Because we run unleaded gas in our engines, it can be hard to "read" a spark plug if it has only been in a motor for a short time. The adjustment of the "Idle mixture screw" is going to effect just that, Idle to about 1800 RPMS. Besides, it adjusts air flow, not fuel flow. Set all 4 Idle Mixture Screws at 21/2 turns from bottom. Then Adjust the clip on the main jet needle until you see low to mid 40's on your MPG. At that point you have done about all that you can do with this adjustment. For the owners with the non-adjustable main jet needles, I now machine a replacement nylon spacer which takes the place of the stock nylon spacer, This new nylon spacer doesn't add additional weight to the end of the Diaphragm Slider assembly like the steel washers do, which could cause the Diaphragm slider to "drag" (not float as freely because of the extra weight). If you have questions or are interested in parts, please feel free to contact me. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Chris, Welcome to the site, now Pay your $12.00 and be part of our family! With that being said, After all of the air is removed from the rear brake system, I use a 1000cc Syringe and pull out about 500cc's after I have filled it to the bottom of the threads where the fill bolt goes. What happens is the brake fluid expands in the rear master cylinder reservoir and will lock up the rear brake caliper when hot. After I do ANYTHING to the rear master cylinder, like add fluid, I always carry an 8MM and 12MM boxed end wrench, in case the rear caliper locks up. you can crack the bleeder to relieve the excess pressure with the 8MM or remove the caliper bolts with the 12MM and rock the caliper back and forth to spread the pads. WARNING: The caliper and rotor is going to be blazing hot, smoke um' if you got um' and wait for that puppy to cool down. If you fill the rear reservoir all the way to the threads, it's too full. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Chris, Standing on the right side of the bike, with your right leg on the ground, place your left foot on the brake pedal. With a PAIR of metric wrenches, loosen the connection up by the handle bars slightly. Depress the brake pedal, when the pedal reaches the bottom of it's travel, tighten the connection. Pump the pedal SLOWLY a few times, then loosen the connection again and depress the brake pedal. Now go to the front left caliper bleeder and bleed it. Then go to the rear caliper and bleed it. When bleeding the calipers (NOT the connection by the handle bars!) a Vacuum bleeder pump helps a lot. You have two options, Buy one from Harbor Freight, ($25.00+/-) or go to Advance Auto Parts, use their "loaner tool program" where you pay for the tool, use it, then return it and get a full refund. Either way, a Vacuum pump will make bleeding the calipers a one man job. After you bleed the connection, the front left, then the rear right caliper. let the bike sit for a few hours so the air will gather at the connection again. Then start the process over again. Connection first, front left caliper next, then the rear caliper. It usually takes about 3 days of doing this to get all of the air out. Questions? PM me. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Dale, I am still accepting orders and have been assured that Every clutch spring and every gasket will be delivered just as soon as my vendors can replentish their stock. Thank you, (and Squidly of course!) for this vote of confidence and I assure EVERYONE that their Kits will be delivered ASAP! Thanks again for your understanding, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Please let me Apologize for the delay in the shipping of the Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit I am offering in the Classifieds. Because of the unexpected volume of orders, I have purchased all of the clutch springs and clutch cover gaskets that were in stock at the two vendors I do business with. They are, as we speak replenishing their supplies and will ship the springs and clutch cover gaskets to me as soon as they arrive. Some members have received their kits, but many have not and I assure you that as soon as my shipments of clutch springs and clutch cover gaskets arrive, I will ship the remainder of the kits purchased. To be honest, I didn't expect this overwhelming response to the ad. I am making every effort to fill these orders as quickly as I can. I have even gone to the two local Yamaha dealers in the area and purchased Clutch Cover Gaskets at RETAIL price to get some of these orders out in a timely manner, to the point that I have depleted the supply of gaskets in my area, and still have not been able to fill all of the orders. If this delay is a problem for ANY VR.ORG member, please contact me, and I will refund your money ASAP! In closing, I only ask that you give me a little more time, I found a GREAT deal on these parts and am trying to share it with my fellow VR.ORG riders. For the delay, I again Apologize! Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, I get 42 MPG in my 87'VR, (I have other mods, heads, cams, Carbs) For pulling a trailer, this mod is a "Must Have" item. You won't even know you have a trailer hooked up. I do a lot of 2up riding and it's the same thing, you don't even realize you have a passenger on board. "Bang for the Buck wise" this is the best mod you can do for the money. The only time I have ever gotten "bad" gas mileage was because the bike was winding up so good and I couldn't keep my fist out of the throttle! (temporary insanity) Once I cam to my senses again, the gas mileage went right back up again. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Lester, The VMAX final drive swap is a dandy way to boost the get up and go in your First Gen.VR! Check out this thread I started about the swap. ( The FJR1300 has the same gear ratio as the VMAX final drive) http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37388 You will want to us your VR drive shaft as the VMAX shaft is too short. You will also need a shim on the drive shaft tube to keep the VMAX final drive perpendicular to the Drive shaft axis. I machine those shims, if you are interested, PM me. With the increased RPM's of the VMAX Final Drive, two other areas you will need to keep an eye on are the Valve Cover Gaskets, If they have not been changed in the last few years, (or never!) you may find that they will start to weep oil. The second thing is your Air Box Vacuuming oil mist out of the Crankcase, if this happens, check out this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2333/cat/500 Other than that, just remember to "Hold ON!" when you drop the hammer! Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    I can get those Yamaha seals for you for $10.00 each, Part #26H-12119-00-00 plus some shipping. If you are interested, PM me, Wish I could better, but that is MY cost. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    In response to the request from Snaggletooth and KB2RWW, I am trying to put together a clutch upgrade kit for the MKI VR's. Yes, the MKI VR clutch is different from the MKII VR's and Second Gen. clutch. Getting a decent price on higher quality clutch springs has been the major drawback up to this point, but have no fear, I'm all over it and hope to have a quality clutch upgrade kit in the near future at a decent price. I will post when I have sorted it all out and have the kit available. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    I just wanted to say "Thanks" to everyone for their kind words and their orders for the Clutch upgrade. To say that I am a bit "Overwhelmed" with the volume of orders is an understatement! Please be a bit patient with me as I didn't anticipate the response from the Second Gen. Owners and have placed a second order for the clutch cover gaskets. I promise to ship these kits out ASAP when the clutch cover gaskets arrive. Thanks again for this tremendous response and it has been my pleasure to help you save a few bucks on this great upgrade. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Curtis, I have a good used kickstand switch, if you pay the shipping, it's yours. It is from a 86'VR but will fit just fine. Welcome to the site, you've come to the right place. Earl
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