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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Jim, I have a brand new starter for your Virago for $130.00 with shipping included! If I can help you with this project, Let me know. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, You might want to have a look at your starter motor. It could be drawing so many amps that it is blowing the fuse. Also have a look at the ground wire from the battery to the engine. I have seen these installed over a painted surface and the ground is in fact, not a ground at all. Here is a link to a new Top Quality, Maint. Free, Sealed battery for you Second Gen: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2743&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=7 Hope this helps, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey All, I have been in contact with EBC and they have admitted that they have shipped me Sub-Standard Diaphragm Clutch Springs that I used in my Clutch Spring Upgrade Kits. It seems we ordered so many springs in such a short time that the were forced to activate a second supplier, and that supplier used the wrong thickness of material for the Diaphragm Clutch Spring. EBC is going to replace EVERY defective Spring. Here are the two options I can offer you at this point: Option one is to Double up you old Clutch Diaphragm Spring and the new one that came with the kit and this will solve the clutch slippage problem once and for all. If this makes the "pull" on the clutch lever too heavy for you to handle, I understand that completely! I would suggest you use option two. Option two would be for you to mail the Clutch Diaphragm Spring ONLY, (remove it from the plastic package and put it in a mailer envelope) back to me, here is my address: Earl Harrell 115 Colony Court Duncansville, Pa. 16635 Here is the "rub" with option two, EVERY Diaphragm Spring that EBC has in stock right now is Sub-Standard, Which means that they will need to make another production run of NEW springs with the proper thickness of material. This is not going to happen overnight! So if your bike is down, you may want to double up on the spring for now, and when the new, correct springs start to arrive, I will post again, and you can swap out the doubled spring for the new, proper thickness spring. Any one that has paid and not received a kit will receive their kit with the new, proper thickness Clutch Diaphragm Spring as soon as the new springs arrive. I am very sorry for this problem, I don't make these springs myself and while I verified the part number for all of the springs I shipped, I didn't measure EVERY spring I sold. I can assure you, I will be measuring EVERY ONE from now on! When the Quality level of the Diaphragm Springs has returned, I will repost the Ads in the Classifieds for the MKII VR and Second Gen. RSV and RSTD kits again. The MKI kit uses a set of 6 compression springs instead of a single Diaphragm spring and there is nothing wrong with the MKI kit. Thanks for your patience, and Again, I apologize for this hassle. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Michael has a First Gen. MKI VR and the Clutch PAC doesn't use a Diaphragm Clutch Spring. I have pulled the ad in the Classifieds for the MKII VR and The Second Gen. RSV and RSTD because of the defective Clutch Diaphragm Springs I received. EBC has admitted they have supplied sub standard Clutch Diaphragm Springs and is going to replace EVERY Diaphragm spring that is defective. My kit for the MKI VR is fully functional and the Compression springs were checked BEFORE I shipped Michael's KIT. I usually only get "snookered" once on things like this and will measuring EVERY spring before it is shipped from now on! Thanks for keeping an "eye out" for me, I appreciate the help! And Yes, My name is Earl! Ernie
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, When I got my 87'VR I got the "bright Idea" to change the headlight bulb to the Silverstar H4 bulb, figuring that you can't have too much headlight. Well don't you know, I dropped both of those bolts right into the fairing and they are still there to this day! Not being the kind of guy that would put "Zip Ties" on my headlight, I went to the closest hardware store and purchased two new metric bolts and washers. BUT I could see how someone with the MAC Gyver gene would throw a couple Zip Ties on there and call it a done deal. ANYONE that says that they have NEVER had their VR tip over, brush against something, or just flat out "dropped it" is one helofa rider, or is full of BS! Look over things well, repair things properly as you find them, Don't take your tires, brakes, or electrical system for granted, and you will be doing what EVERY other First Gen. owner on this site has been doing for the last 27 years! Welcome to the site, don't be afraid to ask questions, get your hands dirty EVERY DAY doing something on your VR, and you will find that you will be hard pressed to find a better motorcycle on this planet! First thing, download the service manual from the First Gen. Tech. Section! Now, off to the hardware store ya' go there Lad,:crackup:Soon, you will be on a first name basis with that guy! Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Barend, I have a used inner cable from a 1986 VR, it is used but appears to be in very good condition. I could send it along with the brake lines or soner if you need it. Let me know how I can help. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, Thanks for that interesting link. I didn't know that they were still being made! I wonder if the campers in your link could be pulled by a VR? Thanks again for the link, Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Henry, Your fine project reminds me of those old "Tear Drop" Campers of so many years ago. I really admire someone that takes the time to create something "special" with their hands and their heads and their hearts to enhance their riding experience. My hat's off to you! I am sure it is going to be a "Jim Dandy" Camper when you are finished! It's a comfort to know that there are still craftsmen in this country, and this is an excellent example of that. Thanks for sharing your "dream come true" with us! Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, I started out with the needle shim mod (with stainless steel washers) and the stock final drive and was averaging 41 to 45 MPG. I added the FJR1300 final drive and was pretty much locked in at 42 MPG. ( I will say that since the final drive change, it's hard, really hard to "Not drop the hammer" a lot!) I have redone the needle shim mod with the nylon replacement shims, and am back up to 44 to 48 MPG plus the sliders seem to function better, they react crisper. ( I think this is due to the reduced weight at the end of the slider by removing the S.S. washers and replacing it with a thinner nylon washer.) Here's a link to the nylon needle shims: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2711/cat/500 The link shows pics of the Main Jet Needle and all of the parts in the end of the slider. I would like to add that the Needle Shim Mod is NO SUBSTITUTE for replacing bad Carb. Diaphragms! If you are getting in the low to mid 30's MPG wise, you need to be taking a LONG HARD look at your Carb. Diaphragms. Unless of course, your right forearm is like Pop Eye's and you can't stay out of the throttle! That's a different problem! If anyone needs pics of the Carb. Diaphragm area or has questions about the Needle Shim Mod Install please feel free to PM me. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Have you thought of using the "Pod" type individual filters? If you plan on installing the VBoost manifold you will need to go in this direction anyway. It might just save you some time in the long run. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    I still think the 85'VR is the "Best of both worlds" as far as the bigger rear trunk, and the sleak lines of the MKI VR. "Tinkering" is a never ending labor of love on these machines. Your bike is "looking good"! Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Steve, Please Cut the plastic box open and put the clutch spring in a mailer envelope and mail it back. It will be easier and cheaper that way! Thanks for your understanding, Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Big Boy, "In the old days" before the EBC clutch spring was developed, That was the fix, take a new stock spring and place it on top of the old Clutch Diaphragm Spring and you never bothered with that clutch again. The first two batches of the EBC springs I received were the thicker springs, and I know this for a fact because I installed several here at my shop and measured all of them before the install. (old machinist habit) This part of this post is directed at JMC, I have had pretty good luck on my own bike reusing the clutch cover gasket. I think Owen will attest to this fact after removing the clutch cover 5 times! But I will say it again, When I ship you new, proper thickness clutch spring, I will ship a new gasket with it, at my cost. So to recap, Double up the two springs so your bike isn't down, contact me, and I will furnish you a new spring and gasket, after the install of the new spring just send me the old spring back so I can get a credit for it. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey EVERYONE, AS A Temporary fix, just double up the old spring and the new spring until I can get in touch with my vendor on Monday. At least you will be able to ride until I get this problem sorted out. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    To EVERYONE that Just Received A Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit! It has been brought to my attention that the Clutch Diaphragm Spring in the Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit is thinner and produces less clutch gripping pressure that the stock spring. Because this Diaphragm comes in a sealed package, I did not think to open one up until I was notified. IT IS IN FACT THINNER THAT THE STOCK SPRING, and is not the spring that has been shipped in earlier batches of the kit. I received 29 of these springs and suspect that the last batch has been packaged incorrectly. If you have not installed the upgrade kit yet, PLEASE DO NOT INSTALL THIS KIT UNLESS YOU CAN MEASURE THE THICKNESS WHICH SHOULD BE .070". If the spring is measuring .055 to .060" thick DO NOT INSTALL THIS KIT. Because it is the weekend, I can't get in touch with the vendor who supplied this part but you better believe that come Monday morning I will be bending his ear about this issue. For any one that has done the install already, I will furnish a replacement spring and new clutch cover gasket with shipping at my cost for your trouble. In the future I will open and measure EVERY spring that I receive before it is shipped. I apologize for this problem and will do all I can to take care of it as soon as possible. Another short term "fix" is to Double your old and the new Clutch Diaphragm Spring until I can get more springs that are the correct thickness. I have REMOVED the Ads from the classifieds until this issue is resolved and like I said earlier in this post I will measure every spring before I ship it from now on. Again, I apologize, Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Boy, that really looks great! I understand you are doing your own powdercoating as well. Great Job! Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey John, Thank you for a better description of your problem. I am now on the same page you have been on. Lets chat about general Carb. info. There are only a few places raw gas can exit a Carb. If this was a stuck float problem, raw gas would exit from the over flow tube and would be dripping back by the rear tire. This is why Seafoam did not solve your problem, because gas is not exiting the Carb. body from the over flow tube. Because the Carb. "bowl" on these Carbs. is pretty much the entire back side of the Carb. holding the float and float needle, I suspect that the Carb. Bowl gasket, (O'Ring) which is above the lower Carb. boot and flange (where the flange bolt is)This area is prone to leaking, and I believe this is where the gas is coming from. If you remove the Carb. Rack, you MAY (I have never tried this on a Second Gen. Carb Rack) be able to unscrew the float bowl screws with a right Angle Phillips Screw Driver or a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips Bit in it and remove the float bowl and replace the O'Ring which is located on the bowl side of the Carb. (not the Carb. body side) You MIGHT (again, I say I have not tried this on a Second Gen.) be able to remove the Air Box and reach the Carb. Bowl Screws for the O'Ring change out. I would try this first before I remove the Carb. Rack. If you take this to a dealer, you will be into this for about $400.00 and I would get all 4 bowl O'Rings replaced at the same time. Because I am poor, and it is hard for me to "walk away" from a challenge, I would figure out a way to get that Carb. Bowl off and change out that O'Ring, but that's just me. If your "paws" are as big as a bear, or a hammer is the first tool you grab when you go to fix things, then the money spent at a dealer to repair this problem might be money well spent. Just my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    The lower Carb. Boots have an Aluminum flange on the bottom (intake) end but are rubber for the rest of the boot. If you can Verify this part number: 4NK-13586-00-00 I can order those lower Carb. Boots for $45.32 each. $8.00 to ship. (If you have a different part number, let me know what it is) Hope this helps, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    I think we are talking about a 2004 RSV. As for the rest of it, I have no clue what we are talking about. Is you mechanic talking about the Idle Mixture Adjustment Screw or the Main Jet that is in the Diaphragm Slider? Could it be that the Bowl gasket is leaking, which indicates to me that when your mechanic installed the "new jets" (Which ones) did he not install new bowl gaskets? Could the O'Ring on the screw for the drain tube be leaking. Do you have a performance problem, and do we actually have TWO issues that we are dealing with, the gas leaking and something not functioning properly inside the Carb? Some pics or a better description would be a great help here. Either way, I wouldn't let this guy wash my windshield much less mess with the Carbs. on your RSV. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Harry, You can use this method with a Allen Wrench, a Ratchet, even a crescent wrench! Don't be in a hurry, and don't "reef down" on the bolt you are trying to tighten. When you feel the "sweet spot" of the bolt head coming in contact with the material to be fastened, you will smile! That smile is like the "clicker" on a torque wrench! Try it, you will be surprised. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    I have attached two pics below of the method I use when tightening smaller fastener's. My Dad called it the "Rule of Thumb". While holding your wrench or ratchet in the palm of your hand, place your thumb over the head of the fastener. While rotating clock wise, you will "feel" the fastener head come in contact with the mating surface you are trying to retain, (the "sweet spot") once you have contact, you're done! Works every time for me. Take a moment and try it, when holding a wrench in this way, it is "almost" impossible to over tighten a fastener. (I say almost because some of you monkeys out there have the paws of a BEAR!) Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    I have had good luck putting a single wrap of Teflon plumbers tape on a screw or bolt that keeps finding it's way out. The Teflon tape also breaks the electromagnetic field that develops between dissimilar metals when they are fastened together. The white "dust" you see on aluminum parts that are fastened with steel fasteners is the aluminum decomposing due to electrolysis. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    When you run high test fuel in your RSV you lower the operating temp. of the engine and you DO NOT get a complete burn of the fuel and air mixture. This leads to fouling plugs, carbon build-up on the valves and a general lack of performance in the engine. You will see signs of this at the tail pipes as a black sooty deposit on the inside end of the exhausts. Put the money you save on the gas into safety chrome or some cassettes for that "state of the art" tape deck you got there. Or invest the money in next years dues for your VR.ORG membership, it would be money better spent. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    It's really hard to tell a fouled plug from a good plug. With that said, I would install 4 new plugs and in the future I would let the bike "warm Up" before I shut it down, or if your are not going to run it very long then you might want to push it in the garage unless you enjoy replacing the plugs regularly. With the temps. you are talking about, consider yourself lucky that the bike started at all. If the plugs don't cure your problem, post again and we will walk you thru the other things it could be. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Gord, I get a pretty good price brake from Yamaha for "my little shop by the creek" If I can help you with the Valve Cover Gaskets or the bolt seals PM me. Also flyinfool is correct, the Second Gen. Valve Cover Gaskets work much better on a First Gen. than the stock First Gen. Gaskets. This is not a pretty job, it's a bit messy and you do a lot of "jiggling" with the Valve Covers to get them on and off, but the results are well worth the trouble. Earl
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