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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, Yamaha makes a great clutch. With that being said, I can supply you with all new friction discs, all new clutch plates and a new clutch cover gasket for $120.00 plus shipping. If you are interested, Let me know. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Bike Nut, Because I am not there to hear the noise, but because you said it was speed specific, I would guess it could be the bushing that is in the speedo drive. Follow the cable that goes from the front wheel up to the dash. You will need to remove the windshield, the cover to the dash, the screws that hold the dash on, (a right angle Phillips head screw driver is handy here) flip the dash back, and use some 3in1 oil or 30 WT. motor oil to lube the place where the speedo cable enters the dash. Not a fun job but once done you will be good for a year or two. You might as well lube the cable while you are at it. Disconnect the cable casing from the front wheel, (screws off ) pull out the speedo cable, clean it off and use some bearing grease (or Moly 60) and lube that puppy up. Hope thats the right noise, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey JB, I expected to see your mug on a milk carton! I was wondering what happened to ya'! It doesn't take long for that 7 day a week thing to get old. Congrats to maggie on her new job and car. I hope you and Maggie have a great weekend. You sure deserve it! Earl and Jean
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, What a feeling isn't it?!?! You must be very happy with the progress of your bike at this point. I can hardly wait to see the plastic back on and the new paint. A job well done! Earl:clap2:
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Jared, WOW! your bike looks great! Don't be too worried about the gas milage right now, the Seafoam does a great job of cleaning the carbs. but doesn't help the gas milage while it is in the tank. BongoBob hit the nail on the head with the Carb. Sync. Run a few tanks of fresh gas thru the fuel system and then take a closer look at the milage. Change out that fuel filter so you don't cause yourself any more troubles, (I have pics of the filter change if you need them) and then take that baby for a GOOD ride! You have done an OUTSTANDING job with your VR, you should be proud of yourself, I know I am, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    I just received word that the vendor will accept the old, defective clutch diaphragm springs back for a credit and will replace every spring with a new one! If you have purchased a Clutch Diaphragm Spring Kit from me and received it, PLEASE send the Spring ONLY, back to me! My address is: Earl Harrell 115 Colony Court Duncansville, Pa. 16635 I will be shipping the defective springs back to the vendor and will receive a new, proper thickness spring for every one I turn in. I will be shipping these springs on Friday April 30, 2010 so if you get your clutch spring to me by that time, you will be in the first group to receive your new, proper thickness replacement spring. Not to worry, if you miss the first shipping, I will be sending a second batch for replacement and there would be a slight delay in receiving your replacement clutch spring. PLEASE remove the clutch diaphragm spring from the plastic package and ONLY send the spring in a mailer envelope. ( a 6X6" bubble wrap mailer will be fine) Thank you one and all for bearing with me thru this, I will repost the Ads for the First Gen, and Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kits as soon as the proper springs start to arrive. For those of you that have ordered the kit and not received it, Your kit will be shipped with the first batch of the correct springs! Thanks again for your patience, Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    For the members that have purchased my entire VR to R1 Brake Swap, I thank you very much. For those members that are on a budget, I have sold just the "custom" pieces that I machine here at "my little shop by the creek". I would never begrudge anyone for shopping for a deal on calipers, brake pads, or brake lines. I compiled the VR to R1 swap kit to make it a "plug and play" install for people that don't want to be bothered with purchasing used parts and reconditioning them to like new. Every caliper I sell is disassembled, checked for damage and excessive wear, Ultrasonically cleaned, reassembled with all new seal kits and hardware, and top of the line EBC HH Sintered pads are installed if you so desire. The splitter adapter bracket allows you to install the Stainless Steel Lines I supply in the stock location with a clean "custom" look. Is it possible to purchase a set of used R1/R6 calipers off of Ebay or at a junk yard and install them unrebuilt to your stock lines and NOT delink your braking system and hold the splitter in place with "zip ties" and not install Stainless Steel brake lines, and use organic brake pads? Of course it is! Does that compare to a set of completely rebuilt R1/R6 Calipers Connected to Stainless Steel brake lines on a delinked brake system with the Vmax splitter and adapter bracket installed? HARDLY. I admire the members that make the effort to upgrade their bikes in any way, and have shared information with any member, weather they have purchased an item from me or not, and will continue to do so. This is really more about the friendship and the sharing of ideas with a group of people that have the same motorcycle for me than it is "getting rich" off of the Kits I sell. When you factor in the amount of time it takes me to machine parts, and rebuild these calipers, it is more a "labor of love" than a viable business, I assure you. As always, If I can help anyone with parts or if you have questions, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, The allen cap screws in your pic are removed, and the water pump is pulled. There is an O'Ring on each end of that plastic pipe, and you will need a new water pump gasket. A 2X4 between the crash bar and the frame will return it to the proper position. Then, you are good as new. If you need help with the parts, feel free to PM me. Good luck with your project, Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Evan, I did a write up on this mod and here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32052 You will find a complete description with pics. I also offer these Diaphragms already mounted on sliders with the Needle Shim Mod installed if you are interested. Feel free to PM me. Good luck with your project! Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Klaus, Have a look at this like, you may find it usefull: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2330&title=first-gen281983-1993-29-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=6 Good luck with your project, Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, Find out what clutch you have, there are a few other tricks that can be done to beef up the clutch on your RSV. If you are interested, Let me know. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Thom, Thank you for those kind words! Klaus, I have compiled a kit that allows you to transform your 1980's brake system to the 21st Century with EVERY part you need for the VR to R1 Brake Swap. You can purchase the entire kit or any parts you need. Please check this link and if you have questions, please feel free to PM me: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2446&title=first-gen281986-1993-29-r1-caliper-swap-and-4-stainless-steel-brake-lines-21&cat=6 Thanks for your interest Klaus, and thanks again for the props, Thom. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    I'm not trying to be a "smarty pants" here, but being one of those guys that likes to know what I am using in my scoot, and why, here is some information about brake fluid that you may find interesting. DOT 3 brake fluid is Glycol Alcohol based. (very much like the antifreeze we use in the radiator) It's "boiling point" is at about 360F. DOT 4 is the same except it boils at about 450F. Now the DOT 5 is silicon based and boils at a much higher temperature, and doesn't "draw" moisture to it like the DOT 3 or 4 does, but will destroy the seals in a brake or clutch Master Cylinder unless the seal material is designed for silicon based brake fluid. This is the reason you can't use the DOT 5 in older bikes (like First Gens) and also why you can't mix the two in the newer bikes (oil and water principal) Just thought you might like to know, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Thanks Bob, Now don't get me wrong, The Odessy battery is a fine battery, and at one time was the only AGM type battery that was available for our 1st and 2nd Gens. but the problem I saw with the Odessy is SOMETIMES you got a battery that was over a year old right from the start. The DEKA has higher cranking amps, and the price is much better. Plus, ALL of the batteries I ship are BRAND NEW batteries or I won't ship them. I had a problem with Odessy on this issue and that's why I use the DEKA batteries now.I have been using the DEKA batteries at the shop now for the last 8 months with excellent results, and decided to offer this quality battery to the VR.ORG members so they could enjoy the benifits this battery provides. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2743&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=7 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=6 Thanks again for the plug, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, There is no adjustment to the clutch on the RSV's I am sad to say. There are a few things I would check. First, have a look at the color (Colour for you kanuks) and volume of the clutch fluid in the master cylinder located on the left handle bar. Fluid half way up the "fish eye" sight glass and clear in color is what you want to see there. If it is higher than half way and dark in color the heat from the engine has caused the clutch fluid to absorb water. Changing out the clutch fluid would help this problem. If all is well with the fluid then you have overheated the clutch compression springs (if you have the Barnett clutch) or the clutch Diaphragm spring if you have the stock clutch. Either way, the spring (or springs) are the part of the clutch that is subject to failure due to excessive heat. I have seen VMAX riders go from new clutch springs to complete failure in one day at the drag races. If the clutch isn't actually slipping then you may be able to live with the reduced amount of "friction zone" in your over the road riding. If you plan to attend the type of event where you are slipping the clutch regularly then plan on replacing the clutch spring (or springs) a lot more frequently. Sorry the news isn't better, but with a few new parts or a change in driving habits your bike will be good as new in no time. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Ya' Oldgoat, There is a bushing in the speedo unit in the dash, you will need to get some oil into the head unit where the speedo comes UP from the wheel. I have had good luck pulling the windshield, removing the dash flipping it back and using 3in1 oil. (not WD40 to thin) Some one else may have a trick to get to the dash without going to all that trouble but this is the only way I have found to get oil in the head unit of the speedo. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Thanks For Reminding Me Gary, The "strike" on the top of the impact driver is going to be more like a solid tap than a full on crushing blow with a 3 pound mall. After all,we ARE talking about a hollow 8MM bleeder fitting, not a 3/4 inch lug nut. The object of the impact driver is to turn downward force into rotational force, not to center punch that $75.00 slave cylinder off the side of the bike. An Impact Driver is a tool, like any other, it can be used wisely, or cause great damage, it's the operator that makes that decision. Any way you look at it, this is one of those jobs that takes a bit of "finesse". By the way, did they put a "mint" on your pillow at that Holiday Inn? Thanks again, Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, Good score on your 83'VR! Here is a link to a AGM type High Quality sealed battery for your First Gen. VR: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=6 Second, remove the clutch master cylinder cover and if the color of the fluid (DOT3 Brake Fluid ONLY) is anything but clear, then you do in fact want to bleed that clutch slave. Harbor freight sells an Impact Driver for $10.00. I use this tool ALL THE TIME! It will take a metric socket on the end, you will strike it with a hammer and it will duplicate the action of an impact wrench. Best $10.00 you will ever spend. Lastly, do not over fill the clutch master cylinder. Half way up the "fish eye" sight glass on the master is almost too full. When the engine gets hot, the clutch fluid expands and will cause the clutch to slip if the master is too full. Hope this helps, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Vonwolf, Use the Idle Adjustment Screw to raise the RPM'S above 2000 and see if the Vacuum levels out.I take it you are not using a Carbtune Manometer? If you have a Carbtune, there are 4 restrictor tubes that will take care of the problem. Another Idea is to have a friend hold the throttle at 3500 RPM'S and set the Carbs, once set try them at idle and it should be easier to read. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Evan, There is no need to remove the fairing if you are CAREFUL. The trick here is to Elevate the ENTIRE bike in the air high enough to remove the triple tree nuts and pull the entire front fork assembly out from under the bike. I have had pretty good luck with the Craftsman Pro ATV/Motorcycle jack getting the bike up high enough. I also attach straps to the rafters to keep the bike from tipping over. An extra pair of hands, (or two) are a big help here. Option "B" is to leave the rear wheel on the ground and hike up the front end until the forks will clear. Sorry I don't have any pics, I was too busy grabbin' my A$$ while all of this was going on to take pics! Either way, this is not a fun job, best done with a few friends. The bottom line here is you are hoisting a 800 pound motorcycle in the air, one way or the other, and this could go very wrong, very quickly! Be VERY CAREFUL! Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Joe, I found this on Ebay, not exactly what you are looking for but close. He seems to be somewhat flexable on the price. A little paint and you would be as good as new! Item number: 280483870333 I can get that saddle bag NEW for $975.00 plus shipping from Yamaha. Sorry I can't help more, Glad you are O.K. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    As part of my continuing effort to offer the best products at a reasonable price, I now have the DEKA line of AGM High Output batteries for our First Gen. and Second Gen. VR's, RSV's and RSTD's listed in the Classifieds. Both of these AGM maintenance free batteries offer a full 1 year warranty, provide high output cranking power, and are shipped free to the 50 U.S. states. Here is the link to the DEKA ETX-20L for the Second Gens: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2743&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=7 Here is the link to the DEKA ETX-18L for the First Gens: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=6 If you have questions, or need a shipping quote to Canada, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Josh, I ganged up a set of 4 coils on a V4 Honda for more room and the combined electromagnetic field caused some Radio Reception problems but it did not affect the function of the coils. (I have never tried it on a VR) Just thought I would mention the potential problem with the radio. Good luck with your project, Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Honda makes a really fine grease just for this purpose called "Moly 60". It's not cheap, ($15.00 a tube at my local Honda stealer) but it does an excellent job, I use it on every bike I service. ANY grease would be better than NO grease! I have a "graveyard" of ruined final drives that were not properly set up or maintained. Yammer Dan is right on about greasing the rear wheel splines and the drive shaft splines in the final drive with every tire change. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    This post is for way2muchfun4u2, If changing the engine oil and Clutch Fluid (Use DOT3 Brake Fluid for this) doesn'tsolve your problem then try this Link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2709&title=first-gen281983-1985-29-mki-heavy-duty-clutch-springs26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit-21&cat=6 This is every part you need to replace the set of clutch springs, the retaining bolts, and add a full friction disc in place of the 1/2 disc that is currently in your MKI clutch right now. Other members have used this kit with excellent results. Earl
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